Loneoceans GXB172 Driver Group Buy

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Scientist
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Interested in 1 17mm and I would likely take a 20mm if you make it.

I’m not clear on what the firmware will be.

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sandro
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interested in 2 each of the 17mm and 20mm

KevinZA1988
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Interested in 2× 17mm for now. Will there be firmware options to choose from? Or at least some decent default firmware??

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

nzoomed
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Interested in 2× 17mm for now. Will there be firmware options to choose from? Or at least some decent default firmware??

Everything will be shipped with default firmware. I would like to see some devs in the community play around with it and write some of their own if there are people with that skill with arduino in here.
There is quite alot of potential with firmware.

KevinZA1988
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nzoomed wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
Interested in 2× 17mm for now. Will there be firmware options to choose from? Or at least some decent default firmware??

Everything will be shipped with default firmware. I would like to see some devs in the community play around with it and write some of their own if there are people with that skill with arduino in here.
There is quite alot of potential with firmware.

Thank you. Where can I get more info on the default firmware?

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

nzoomed
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And an update on pricing.
Ive got my initial quote in and component costs are just shy of $20 per board, so we are looking at $1962 total component cost for 100 boards and fabrication costs of the PCB and assembly.

We are not going to be much below $30 per board if at all by the time I get charged with import tax at my end.

Would like to feel out how much everybody is prepared to pay for a driver, and would need to fill in most of the orders before we go ahead.
If I cant get enough orders in, I may have to opt for a lower amount produced perhaps 50 boards, but this will likely increase the cost per board further.

nzoomed
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
nzoomed wrote:
KevinZA1988 wrote:
Interested in 2× 17mm for now. Will there be firmware options to choose from? Or at least some decent default firmware??

Everything will be shipped with default firmware. I would like to see some devs in the community play around with it and write some of their own if there are people with that skill with arduino in here.
There is quite alot of potential with firmware.

Thank you. Where can I get more info on the default firmware?

See here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59137
and here:
https://github.com/loneoceans/gxb172-attiny841

Hope this helps.

KevinZA1988
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Thank you

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

id30209
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nzoomed wrote:
Would like to feel out how much everybody is prepared to pay for a driver

 

30$ for custom (almost one-off) and so powerful driver looks OK to me

You won't be seeing any similar soon... If it's easy for everyone to build one it would be done already 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Umpi2000
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I’m in for one please if this is still open and happening
Guess I would need the fet switch too, doubt I can make one Tired

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There is a difference between 1) the production costs, 2) the value of this driver: how unique is it compared to what is around, and 3) what I’m prepared to pay for it.

1) I do not know but you will find out, 2) I think as a custom driver that has unique performance it may be worth over 20 dollar, but 3) for my flashlight builds that is too much, I would pay between 10 and 15 dollar most.

So if under 15 dollar, I would like one Smile

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Interested in at least 2 of each and fet tail boards, 4 or more of them

nzoomed
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shirnask wrote:
Interested in at least 2 of each and fet tail boards, 4 or more of them

How much would you want to pay for a FET/tail board?
One unit requires 2 seperate boards, and that means 2 seperate sets of assembly setup costs.
For these boards, Ive been putting together the price of the components and its going to be at least $10 worth of parts per board.
Might be able to get the price down from the manufacturer in China, but we are easily looking at the best part of $20 per set of boards at a guess.
It would be much cheaper to just supply the boards for each person to assemble, its not that difficult to solder the SMD parts, just need patience and use tweezers and a fine tipped soldering iron.

id30209
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If it's easier to assemble FET switch than driver then i could use 2 as well...

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

shirnask
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nzoomed wrote:
shirnask wrote:
Interested in at least 2 of each and fet tail boards, 4 or more of them

How much would you want to pay for a FET/tail board?
One unit requires 2 seperate boards, and that means 2 seperate sets of assembly setup costs.
For these boards, Ive been putting together the price of the components and its going to be at least $10 worth of parts per board.
Might be able to get the price down from the manufacturer in China, but we are easily looking at the best part of $20 per set of boards at a guess.
It would be much cheaper to just supply the boards for each person to assemble, its not that difficult to solder the SMD parts, just need patience and use tweezers and a fine tipped soldering iron.

I have both of those items, and experience, and I am willing to give it a try. Age however has taken a toll on my eye sight and the steadiness of my hands so I lack a bit of confidence when SMD’s get too small

Scientist
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I’m gonna have to learn to do it sometime so I would go for parts.

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nzoomed
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id30209 wrote:

If it’s easier to assemble FET switch than driver then i could use 2 as well…


Yup, its much easier to assemble this than the driver board.
If the soldering on the driver was that easy for the driver, I would do it myself too, the hardest parts to solder is the microcontroller and the temperature sensor IIRC.

I can probably get the costs for a pair of boards down to around $5 I think.
Will confirm later.

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I guess that’s going to be too rich for my blood I think. Not to mention that I completely forgot the fact that tailcap mod is required.

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rngwn wrote:
I guess that’s going to be too rich for my blood I think. Not to mention that I completely forgot the fact that tailcap mod is required.

I have one that’s been used here and there for months using the factory omten switch in a convoy S2+. I did however add a wire bypass to the switch.
The omten switches are cheap if one fails. This driver has a soft start function that seems to contribute to the switch surviving where it shouldn’t. This driver pushes the switch to it’s limit and beyond so your mileage may vary on how long it will last. Also the GFS16 Fet switch board is all that’s needed to turn the switch into a high current one. The add-on led board just adds some battery level indicator function to the switch.
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moderator007 wrote:
rngwn wrote:
I guess that’s going to be too rich for my blood I think. Not to mention that I completely forgot the fact that tailcap mod is required.
I have one that’s been used here and there for months using the factory omten switch in a convoy S2+. I did however add a wire bypass to the switch. The omten switches are cheap if one fails. This driver has a soft start function that seems to contribute to the switch surviving where it shouldn’t. This driver pushes the switch to it’s limit and beyond so your mileage may vary on how long it will last. Also the FSW16 Fet switch board is all that’s needed to turn the switch into a high current one. The add-on led board just adds some battery level indicator function to the switch.

What is a safe and reliable option for the tail switch?

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I fixed the miss spelling of the GFS16 fet switch. Facepalm
The reliable is the GFS16 Fet switch. That was the reason Loneoceans created it. From his writings, I think he said he had omten switches that melted. I haven’t experienced that yet in the bypassed switch on mine. I have both switches in two different S2+ lights using this driver and both are working fine but the omten switch in heavy use would probably not last long. I’m just stating that one can use the factory omten switch if bypassed and not used frequently. The way to go is difinitely the GFS16 Fet switch for reliability and heavy use.

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moderator007 wrote:
I fixed the miss spelling of the GFS16 fet switch. Facepalm The reliable is the GFS16 Fet switch. That was the reason Loneoceans created it. From his writings, I think he said he had omten switches that melted. I haven’t experienced that yet in the bypassed switch on mine. I have both switches in two different S2+ lights using this driver and both are working fine but the omten switch in heavy use would probably not last long. I’m just stating that one can use the factory omten switch if bypassed and not used frequently. The way to go is difinitely the GFS16 Fet switch for reliability and heavy use.

Well It would not surprise me being a cheap chinese switch and is being pushed over its limits probably anyway with 6A or more of current going through it.
The main benefit of the switch though is the much lower voltage drop and/or resistance that is experienced.
Thats why its important to construct the unit well and solder braid onto the springs, etc.

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I think 30 USD (~44 AUD) is too much for me since I don’t really have a plan for the driver. It doesn’t seem unreasonable for a small run of a unique product, I just can’t justify it for myself.

What kind of quantity is required to bring the unit cost down?

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Depending on the final price, I would be interested in two pieces.

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With 30 USD driver cost I may buy only one, with 20 USD two 17mm.

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nzoomed wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
I fixed the miss spelling of the GFS16 fet switch. Facepalm The reliable is the GFS16 Fet switch. That was the reason Loneoceans created it. From his writings, I think he said he had omten switches that melted. I haven’t experienced that yet in the bypassed switch on mine. I have both switches in two different S2+ lights using this driver and both are working fine but the omten switch in heavy use would probably not last long. I’m just stating that one can use the factory omten switch if bypassed and not used frequently. The way to go is difinitely the GFS16 Fet switch for reliability and heavy use.

Well It would not surprise me being a cheap chinese switch and is being pushed over its limits probably anyway with 6A or more of current going through it.
The main benefit of the switch though is the much lower voltage drop and/or resistance that is experienced.
Thats why its important to construct the unit well and solder braid onto the springs, etc.


It maybe cheap but its quite robust. Alot of modders here have pushed them quite hard and they just keep on working. Nothing like this driver does though, upwards of 15 amps across the switch.
I built a few of the GFS16’s with blue spring’s and modded them to fit in a V11R just for the lower v drop. It’s a very nice low resistance designed switch that can give you a little more output to the led.
nzoomed
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Yeah, quite true, I think the switch would be fine in most applications.

Ive just got a quote on the boards for the tailcaps, and they come just under $1 each, so you are looking at $2 for a pair of boards for a tailcap switch.

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skinny_tie wrote:
I think 30 USD (~44 AUD) is too much for me since I don’t really have a plan for the driver. It doesn’t seem unreasonable for a small run of a unique product, I just can’t justify it for myself.

What kind of quantity is required to bring the unit cost down?


The highest cost of the board is the components, coming in just shy of $20 per board, the total costs for production and assembly of the PCB’s is $549.

Please note that this cost of the assembled board is far cheaper than if you were to assemble it yourself. Even if we did a group buy of the PCB’s themselves, you are still looking at least $30 or more, not to mention shipping costs.
Mouser quotes me just shy of $22USD for the components to do a single driver. Then you have to buy the inductor off coilcraft which is around $4USD, so there is definitely a big saving made here.
We definitely could get the driver cost down under $30 with more orders.
As it stands, the quoted price for 100 boards stands at $2567 USD, so already is under $30USD, but im taking other factors into account, such as 15% import tax I will face upon receiving the goods.
They also charge $52USD for shipping to me.
So taking all that into account the total is $3004.
So im not out of pocket, I will have to charge extra for paypal fees on top of all of this, then there is international shipping on top of all this for each buyer, I dont imagine this to be much, and will use the most cost effective method.

The only way we will cut down costs is by making more boards.
Question is, can we fill up this first 100 orders? I dont want to be out of pocket with a whole bunch of drivers I cant sell. I think we could easily fill up 50 orders, but not sure about 100 quite yet.
Are most builders from candlepowerforums over here too, or should I start a thread over there too?

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Although I am not using Reddit apparently a lot of flashlight enthusiast are. Perhaps there too?

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Scientist wrote:
Although I am not using Reddit apparently a lot of flashlight enthusiast are. Perhaps there too?

Actually thats a good idea, there is quite a strong reddit community, either way, feel free to share this thread round and point them to it if they are interested Smile

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