For an emergency use or little use which type of battery should i use?

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mortuus
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i would say double AA or even AAA would be the best for emergency situations. plenty enough lights coming from such flashlights.

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xxo
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mortuus wrote:
i would say double AA or even AAA would be the best for emergency situations. plenty enough lights coming from such flashlights.

Yup, AA’s and AAA’s are easy to scrounge out of things like clocks, remotes and toys and are easy to find on the road for a light kept in a vehicle. Plus energizer ultimate lithiums are just as good if not better than CR123’s for long term storage and performance in extreme high and low temps.

wle
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alkaline and carbon-zinc -> leak

energizer ultimate lithiums -> i have had odd results with them, mostly they do not seem to have a high current drain capability they will shut down at random no, i was not using during extreme heat or cold

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xxo
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wle wrote:
alkaline and carbon-zinc -> leak

energizer ultimate lithiums -> i have had odd results with them, mostly they do not seem to have a high current drain capability they will shut down at random no, i was not using during extreme heat or cold

The L91 is rated for 2.5 Amp continuous load and a 4 Amp pulse load which is lower than typical Li-ion and NiMH cells, but higher than what a CR123A cell is rated for – 1.5A continuous/3.5A pulse.

wle
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xxo wrote:
wle wrote:
alkaline and carbon-zinc -> leak

energizer ultimate lithiums -> i have had odd results with them, mostly they do not seem to have a high current drain capability they will shut down at random no, i was not using during extreme heat or cold

The L91 is rated for 2.5 Amp continuous load and a 4 Amp pulse load which is lower than typical Li-ion and NiMH cells, but higher than what a CR123A cell is rated for – 1.5A continuous/3.5A pulse.

what i have seen is, they test ok on a battery tester, meaning that they can deliver 100ma ok but in a camera or something they don;t work

maybe what is going on is, my particular cell was almost dead but for some reason still indicated a high open circuit voltage, as well as delivering 100mA ok, but the max current has fallen off, and the tester just can;t test for that…

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
    Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster.   
-Greg Lemond.
       ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸

xxo
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wle wrote:
xxo wrote:
wle wrote:
alkaline and carbon-zinc -> leak

energizer ultimate lithiums -> i have had odd results with them, mostly they do not seem to have a high current drain capability they will shut down at random no, i was not using during extreme heat or cold

The L91 is rated for 2.5 Amp continuous load and a 4 Amp pulse load which is lower than typical Li-ion and NiMH cells, but higher than what a CR123A cell is rated for – 1.5A continuous/3.5A pulse.

what i have seen is, they test ok on a battery tester, meaning that they can deliver 100ma ok but in a camera or something they don;t work

maybe what is going on is, my particular cell was almost dead but for some reason still indicated a high open circuit voltage, as well as delivering 100mA ok, but the max current has fallen off, and the tester just can;t test for that…

Sounds like you were using dead batteries. Ultimate lithiums should have open circuit Voltages of 1.79-1.83V fresh out of the package and when they get below 1.70V they are dead. If you are using a Voltage based battery tester intended for alkalines, they will test “good” long after they are dead.

snakebite
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wonder if they passivate like cr types?
you just run them a bit and they recover.

wle
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xxo][quote=wle][quote=xxo wrote:
wle wrote:
alkaline and carbon-zinc -> leak

what i have seen is, they test ok on a battery tester, meaning that they can deliver 100ma ok but in a camera or something they don;t work

maybe what is going on is, my particular cell was almost dead but for some reason still indicated a high open circuit voltage, as well as delivering 100mA ok, but the max current has fallen off, and the tester just can;t test for that…

Sounds like you were using dead batteries. Ultimate lithiums should have open circuit Voltages of 1.79-1.83V fresh out of the package and when they get below 1.70V they are dead. If you are using a Voltage based battery tester intended for alkalines, they will test “good” long after they are dead.

oh!
good to know
they don;t exactly publish that info!!

wle

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
    Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster.   
-Greg Lemond.
       ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸

snakebite
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as for 9v lights make one from a dead 9v.
tear it apart for the connector.
2 white leds and a 100 ohm 1/8w resistor makes a decent light.
can use 1/4 &1/2w too but i ordered 1/8w since i build these 100 at a time for preppers.
2 leds in series with the resistor.
clear 5 minute epoxy,hot glue,ect to protect it.
extra credit for using yuji or other high cri leds.
no switch just snap it on.

Oli
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With outdoor temperature ranges of 0 to 100F, -18 to 38C, I keep multiple flashlights with 18650 battery’s in all vehicles. Charge typically to 4.1V, never in the vehicle. I also keep battery operated tools in the same conditions. If I am slightly shortening the battery life, then so be it.

FollowspotDude
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In all of my cars you’ll find 9v PALights. Their continuous glow makes them easy to find and is a reminder that the battery is still functional. I’ve never had a problem with storing 9 volt batteries in the car, even in Florida. And as others have mentioned, in an emergency 9 volt batteries are plentiful when everything else has been exhausted.

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