The newly upgraded samsung 30QT-6 has stronger power

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Well I got 3 of these maybe 18 mos ago from Amazon:

And searching internet did not find any clearly “legit” 30Q pics that had a rounded 3.

Mine were only 2200 mah. Work ok for lo drain but I definitely think I was ripped off or very unlucky and got subpar genuine cells.

Got a 40T a few months ago and noticed wrap creased and again a rounded 3 in the battery code and, searching again, did not find any legit pics with a rounded 3 in the battery code. Have not tested capacity yet.

I may be wrong, but i looked long and hard at legit sites (Liion, Illumn, etc.) and did not find any pics with rounded 3s.

Anyway, just my non-tech observation.

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guerrerohalcon wrote:
… I do not want to sell someone something that causes them a problem or injury. But I have already found out and the reason for such a note in the battery is to demarcate responsibility in the use of it. …

Fact is that they are responsible for whatever may happen to them. This is no exemption for any involved responsibilities, and yes the battery notes are meant for that. They're scared of @#$% filing lawsuits against them.

At times I wonder if they are choosing the right battery type. Li-ion was designed with gradually decreasing output voltage as it is discharged. This was probably of use many years ago, when devices had much less sophisticated electronics, to help with state of charge gauging. Nowadays electronic devices use coulomb counting and other means to measure state of charge, and I think they don't need batteries with gradually decreasing output voltage at all. LiFePO4 is a somewhat less energy dense chemistry, but its output voltage stays nearly flat along the discharge, this means nearly all the battery energy can be used without losing power output in a mech mod, while also LiFePO4 is an amazing power battery (mech users enjoy LiFePO4). These 26650 cells (made by Power Long Battery) feature outstanding power output and performed great when they were tested by Mooch. They're now for sale (check out for Vapcell discount coupons), I guess Vapcell didn't wanted to mess with them and decided to completely drop the product instead of seeking out for the safety documentation Mooch was asking, if available. Power Long Battery makes lots of LiFePO4 battery cells, but God knows.

But this is another story. What matters here is to raise people's awareness to understand that a power battery needs to be carried in some sort of proper box. Plastic battery boxes are sold everywhere, by the way. 

Sun, 08/02/2020 - 13:22

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For those of you with a wide range of “30Q” cells, it would be interesting to see the consistency of the stamping on the bottom rim of the can. I’ve found this the most reliable way to immediately spot fake cells. Every real Samsung cell I’ve checked has a stamp thats hidden just under the edge of the wrapper on the (-) end of the cell. I usually take a razor blade and cut off this lip anyhow as I usually add a clear over-wrap on my cells for added protection and to reduced rattling in most lights.

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Thanks for your advice, it is always important to continue learning, your good intention is valued !!!

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guerrerohalcon wrote:
Thanks for your advice, it is always important to continue learning, your good intention is valued !!!

Mooch is the best authority in safe vaping batteries.

In short 30Q are rated for 15A but they are good for 20A as long as the temperature remains below 75C under your own risk, Samsung 25R are good for 20A. For higher loads per cell the Molicel P26A/P28A or the Samsung 20S or 25S are recommended. Somebody may attempt to run the cells at higher load than recommended for a few seconds but if the device is turned on for too long, it could easily vent with flames or worse so it’s unsafe.

Cells like the NCR18650B, the NCR18650GA, LG MJ1, Samsung 35E or god forbid the Samsung 26J or the Samsung 30A (not 30Amps!!!, I found somebody asking that in MercadoLibre) have a CDR 10A or below and are only good for flashlights and other things with moderate power requirements, their capacity is good for that, not for vaping. Anything over 3600mAh in 18650 format, like most cheap 18650s in the local market, is a fake and most likely terrible.

I think most vaping devices will work better with flat tops rather than button tops, but I never actually touched a vaping device, I only read it from the internet.

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ggf31416 wrote:
… Somebody may attempt to run the cells at higher load than recommended for a few seconds but if the device is turned on for too long, it could easily vent with flames or worse so it's unsafe.

It can be done, but who is doing it (and all that it entails) matters. Absolutely.

ggf31416 wrote:

Cells like the NCR18650B, the NCR18650GA, LG MJ1, Samsung 35E or god forbid the Samsung 26J or the Samsung 30A (not 30Amps!!!, I found somebody asking that in MercadoLibre) have a CDR 10A or below and are only good for flashlights and other things with moderate power requirements, their capacity is good for that, not for vaping. …

There's people which vapes at moderate or low power levels, and may find a low to mid power cell adequate. Of course using a cell at its maximum rated discharge current is neither optimal in energy output nor cell lifespan wise. Mooch has great recommendations in this respect, but if I were to give out some rule I'd refrain from using a cell above its CDR / √2 in the absence of better alternatives; this rule is enough to halve thermal stress on the cell and also raises effective energy output. Reading reviews like this 35E one makes me think he would sort of agree.

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JaredM wrote:
For those of you with a wide range of “30Q” cells, it would be interesting to see the consistency of the stamping on the bottom rim of the can. I’ve found this the most reliable way to immediately spot fake cells. Every real Samsung cell I’ve checked has a stamp thats hidden just under the edge of the wrapper on the (-) end of the cell. I usually take a razor blade and cut off this lip anyhow as I usually add a clear over-wrap on my cells for added protection and to reduced rattling in most lights.

May I ask for a sample pic of how that looks like?

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VERY old 20R .. H8 stamping (but very very hard to see)
25R.. Y4 stamping
30Q.. Lowercase Alpha ( α )

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Thanks, JaredM!

Will remember that. But not sure I want to tear the wrapper on my newer 30Qs just yet.. But will try to check older Samsungs.

Battery Man not...
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There are 3 different 30Q

The top 30Q is made in Korea and can not read the manufactured date
The middle 30Q is made in Malaysia and can not read the manufactured date
The below 30Q is made in Tianjin ,China. That’s why it with “T “at the end of date code “KF5T” .

K means 2020/F means March/5 means fifth week/T means Tianjin factory

18650 battery is the best

Battery Man not...
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Sidney Stratton wrote:
Why didn’t Samsung label the newer version as “30QT-6” ?
From the pics of your Facebook timeline:

So one has to know from the nuance of the warning that the cell would be the slighter better chemistry. As there aren’t enough counterfeits to add to the confusion of this popular cell?

There are 3 different 30Q

The top 30Q is made in Korea and can not read the manufactured date
The middle 30Q is made in Malaysia and can not read the manufactured date
The below 30Q is made in Tianjin ,China. That’s why it with “T “at the end of date code “KF5T” .

K means 2020/F means March/5 means fifth week/T means Tianjin factory

18650 battery is the best

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Battery Man not Batman wrote:
Sidney Stratton wrote:
Why didn’t Samsung label the newer version as “30QT-6” ?
From the pics of your Facebook timeline:

So one has to know from the nuance of the warning that the cell would be the slighter better chemistry. As there aren’t enough counterfeits to add to the confusion of this popular cell?

There are 3 different 30Q

The top 30Q is made in Korea and can not read the manufactured date
The middle 30Q is made in Malaysia and can not read the manufactured date
The below 30Q is made in Tianjin ,China. That’s why it with “T “at the end of date code “KF5T” .

K means 2020/F means March/5 means fifth week/T means Tianjin factory

I have a question / need clarification regarding the 2nd letter of the date code for 30Q6-T battery, which you mentioned are manufactured in Tianjin, China.

What’s the earliest year the 30Q6-T are made? If “K” means 2020, then “J” means 2019, and “L” will mean 2021, is this right? (so far I’ve only seen “K” as the 1st lettter of the 30Q6-T, but we’ll likely see 2021 (ie. start with letter “L” for 2021, sometime soon)

2nd letter “F” means March : So January would be “D”? and December would be “O”? (so far I’ve got a 30Q6-T that’s labeled KH1T and another 30Q6-T labeled KK2T, this would mean: KH1T = 1st week of May 2020, and KK2T = 2nd week of August 2020 ?)

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