Beginner woodworking tips and tools recommendation?

Off-topic Chatter
1

I have been interested in woodworking since I was a kid but I haven’t decided to really get into it until recently that I started to experiment with it during the lockdown. I’m sure lots of member here have extensive experience in woodworking and I would like to ask you for some beginner tips, what would you have done differently if you were to start again?

My budget is rather limited at about $500 for tools so I want to start with the basic to get to know the tools and the material before moving on to higher quality brand name stuff. I’m handy with automotive and general household tools but don’t have much experience with woodworking tools. What I’m plan to build are not very difficult projects, such as plant ladder, bookcases, invisible shelf, Diy Work table, cat tree and that sort of woodworking projects that floods YouTube.

So far this is a list of tools that I already bought or plan to get:
-Miter saw, the basic one with no sliding
-Jigsaw
-Electric planer
-Orbital sander
-Fine teeth crosscut hand saw, bought
-Pocket hole kit, bought
-Chisel kit
–4 compact F clamps and 2 long ones
–4” Vise and I’ll make a compact work table for it using 2x2 and 2x4
-Speed square
-Center marking tool
-Wheel marking gauge
-My work area is rather limited so a table saw is a no go. I already own all the other basic tools like drill and driver.

I have spent probably almost 10 hours watching different tutorials and tool safety/basics and I’m already working on a cat tree and practicing basic dado joints with the crosscut saw, although my cutting precision is still lacking. There is still lots to learn so any input is well appreciated!

2

Chisels. When you buy chisels also buy what is needed to keep them sharp. At the same time, becuse most chisels you will likely buy need will sharpening before you use them.

There are a host of methods and shrapeners out there. IMO, you need a solid and easy way to hold the chisel at a exact angle. Hand holding will result in a crappy result. Sharpening on a regular bench grinder is a good way to ruin a chisel. I have been using a Work Sharp 3000. It is not cheap but they have a less pricy model, the 2000, that also does a superb job. They use a dry abrasive method using replaceable sandpaper discs in a series of grades to extremely fine. The chisel looks like chrome when done correctly. A sharp chisel cuts easier, with less force needed. An extremely sharp chisel is a joy to use.

The Work Sharps are motorized. A manual sharpener that uses the same principle is the Scary Sharp. Google should find several sellers. You can also gather the required pieces yourself. A sheet of plate glass is needed, along with a hilder and sandpaper assortment in grits from 800 to 3000. Google should find an assortment of DIY and how-to’s. I like the Work Sharp very much but I do realize it is a lot of money.

As for chisels there are some very well made Japanese chisels. I have used Japanese made hand cutting tools for a few decades now. Saws, chisels and carving knives. They do cost more than mass produced chisels. I have a set of 6 Japanese chisels that would cost about $150 or so today but the DeWalt set of 4 for about $35 at HD are quite good. But they need a good sharpening before use. The steel is pretty good though. The DeWalt used to come, probably still do, with a set of plastic edge protectors. Eventually the plastic breaks. Anyhow the edges should be protected when not in use. Don’t toss them loose in a tool box. I don’t recall where I found them, but someplace online I found a set of silicone edge protectors that slide on the tip and stay there quite well. Nice chisels may come in a wood box. Or a good box can be a good project.

3

I dont see a table saw in that list and I know you said you dont have the space, but could you fit one of the small portable table saws.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-15-amp-benchtop-table-saw-63118.html
There pretty light and doesn’t really need the base as long as you clamp it down to something heavy like a table.
I’m not a big wood worker but have done a few projects.
I would suggest a table saw and maybe a router.
Also if you decide to get one, harbor freight has a 20% off one item coupon that floats around in a lot of places.

4

Power tools. I have some Makita power tools and hve never been sorry I bought them. They are extremely well made. I still have the Makita circular saw (7-1/4” that I bought 30 years ago, although I mostly use one of their newer battery powered versions now. I also have and use the same Makita portable belt sander and power planer that I bought about 35 years ago. I have replaced a few parts on them but they still work great. Quality can pay off.

I think the very popular Ryobi cordless tools are a good value. One of the big differences between a Ryobi and a Makita circular saw, just for an example, is that the “shoe”, that flat plate that glides over the wood surface that is being cut, is much thicker and sturdier on the Makita. The Ryobi make need a little more careful handling.

The Ryobi cordless random orbital sander is about $45 (tool only) while the Makita brand will be $120 (tool only). As well HD also has frequent sales and deals on combo packs.

5

My table saw and my power miter saw both get used a lot. My miter saw is a Makita 10” with sliding carriage. The slide makes the saw much more useful as that increases the width that may be cut. However, I would rather have a top quality non-slide miter saw than a cheaper one with a slide. Cheaper ones that I have used are not as accurate nor are they repeatable with the same accuracy in my experience. Mine is a 10” Makita. They now have a cordless version that uses two of their 18 volt packs. I would love one, but cannot justify the purchase.

Both a miter saw and a table saw will cut better with a top-notch blade. Carbide tips are much longer lived than non-carbide tipped blades. I like the Freud brand; have used them for about 35 years. There are a large assortment of blades within any one size. FYI, a sliding miter saw is easier and safer to use with a blade designed for the sliding action than the blade that is usually used on a non-sliding miter saw. Special blades for ripping along the grain and for cutting across the grain.

6

A table saw, even one of the portable job site models, is one of the most basic woodworking tools and the center of the workshop. Or even just a circular saw with a straight edge.

The foundation of any wood project are pieces that are accurately, and consistently cut.

If you build that ladder or bookcase, and the rungs/shelves are all slightly different lengths, it’s not going to fit together well, and the finish that the sander or planer impart aren’t going to matter much if it’s crooked, or wobbles.

Start with the the tools that will produce good basic building blocks first, and worry about the upping the finish and joinery game later.

7

You need a hand plane in there some place.
Makes creeping up on a dimension from a saw cut much easier.
Expect to spend time prepping the blade on any of the inexpensive ones.
I’d put it before an orbital sander. Hand sanding with a sanding block worked for most everyone before electric sanders.
All the Best,
Jeff

8

I started making portraits in wood, wood burning. I spent over $ 500 on tools and wood. I am very passionate about creating unique and original things, namely in this hobby, I found myself. I was a beginner a year ago, but I searched and found the best tools to make my job easier. You can also find on this site https://improvecraft.com/best-wood-burning-tools/ and more information on how to start working with wood.

9

To help eliminate the frustration that can easily come from working with wood & wooden projects not coming together square, level and plumb, you'll need the highest quality measuring tools that your budget can accommodate. So when choosing a tape measure, metal straight edges, torpedo and longer levels, adjustable T-square, adjustable bevel, calipers, a protractor and so on, look to models from manufacturers with the highest reputations for accuracy, especially with clear & legible markings.

In addition to quality measuring tools, consider a variety of marking tools, from quality pencils meant for woodworking to Sharpies, as well as a good scribe.

In my opinion, the most vital consideration for a workshop or wherever you'll be crafting your projects is good overhead lighting that provides sufficient Lumens and CCT.

However, even when your overhead lighting is ample, at least most of the time, there may be times when having a form of "spot lighting" would be extremely helpful. This is when a good headlight, preferably a high-CRI model, would be great to have available.

In a space with insufficient overhead lighting, the most indespensible item that I can recommend from personal experience is some type of clamp-on flashlight holder with multi-planar adjustability, that once positioned to illuminate an area, will remain solidly in place while you're project is being cut, drilled, shaped, etc. Naturally, this type of tool will need to accommodate whichever of your flashlights you'll choose to help you read the markings bubbles, lines, etc. on the aforementioned measuring tools. But again, a quality headlight should more than suffice in a workspace that already has plenty of daylight CCT, overhead lighting.

Few hobbies can be both as relaxing and rewarding as woodworking. Enjoy!

10

I don't see any good tools for holding the wood you are working on within the place. If you want beautiful results, you must keep your wood in place. I hope you've already bought most of the items you have because I remember my bench Vince was pretty expensive. Even though I spent a lot on it, I can see the difference in my work process compared to before, and I am sure it was a significant investment. You have to find some of the best options. I consulted swindens.co.uk before deciding which one to get, and I was not disappointed. That's why I am sure you need some advice before buying it. Don't look at the price; believe me, it will be worth it!

11

I would also suggest buying quality tools from the start. I built my house with cheap tools that lasted one house. You will save money in the long run. Fine Homebuilding magazine used to do tool comparisons that weren’t all fluff. Sadly it went south like most magazines the last time I looked. Not all tools from a single brand are the best it a particular category but if you go cordless you will be wise to stick to one brand. One feature I like in my older years are tools with onboard LED lighting.

12

I’ve been doing woodworking as a hobby for most of my life. I lucked into inheriting my grandfather’s tools and even though they aren’t the largest capacity (tablesaw can only take an 8” blade, jointer is only 4” wide), I’ve been able to make a ton of projects that are definitely going to outlast me and the next generation.

If I had to start from scratch and I couldn’t get a tablesaw I would most likely invest in a 2hp router with a standard base and plunge base. Then I’d make a serviceable router table and I could do jointing, edge treatments, pattern cutting, inlays and lots more. There are tons of diy plans for simple router tables out there. There are entire books written about clever router uses. Head to the library or search youtube and see.

I’ve also used my 5” random orbit sander a TON. Invest in good paper (Mirka brand is AMAZING and will save you money even though it’s not cheap). The Diablo mesh papers work very well also and are miles ahead of the cheaper stuff you’ll find at a big box store.

A couple quality chisels are super handy to get into corners or trim sections. You don’t need a big set. A 1/2” chisel is my most used size but I also like a 1”.

A circular saw with a flush edge guide you make from plywood can get you very far and you won’t need a tablesaw for years if you’re creative.

For basic furniture, your idea of a pocket hole jig is very sound. It’s not sexy but it absolutely positively works.

Finally, get a bunch of clamps. Harbor Freight is not my go-to place for tools, but they have very decent F-style clamps for not much money and they get good reviews. My dad uses them and says they work great. Then scour the garage sales for C-clamps, pipe clamps and even wooden twin screw clamps. Get as many as you can in all sizes. You’ll be glad you did!

A good dust mask is super important as is hearing protection. Lighting, as mentioned above is crucial, especially when checking sanding and when finishing. Also, a decent but reasonably priced Japanese double sided saw can be so handy for getting a piece cut down to size.

Finally, look at the projects you want to make and decide which tool will be next. Let the job be your guide. Have fun and be safe!