Sofirn SC31 PRO, New Anduril Flashlight

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TimMc
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Are there some good 4000K emitter alternatives to the SST40 5000K for the SC31 Pro? Grad

It’s a nice flashlight. I wish it were warmer than 5000K.

Tom E
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TimMc wrote:
Are there some good 4000K emitter alternatives to the SST40 5000K for the SC31 Pro? Grad It's a nice flashlight. I wish it were warmer than 5000K.

Well, could use an XM-L2 maybe, but I'd go with a 351D, tint of your choice, and diamond in the 5050 centering piece -- I've done this a few times before, and the 3535 LED comes out centered. Basically as you tighten down the reflector, the 3535 LED turns in the 5050 centering piece til it settles at 45 degree angles - usually hangs up there, dead on at 45 degrees so comes out perfectly centered.

flashburn wrote:
If you take out the switch, the Attiny is exposed well enough to contact it directly with slim pogo pins. A standard programming clip does not fit though the opening behind the switch PCB, but if you make one with 0.5mm pogo pins and SOIC breakouts and a wooden clothespeg, it works.

Is this something you did? Dunno how that is done, but I haven't played with pogo pins much.

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TimMc wrote:
Are there some good 4000K emitter alternatives to the SST40 5000K for the SC31 Pro? Grad

It’s a nice flashlight. I wish it were warmer than 5000K.

Luxeon V 4000K is a very nice and overlooked high-power 3V led. IMO way nicer than the SST-40. 4040 size though.

virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm Photo Red ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 (for sale)

 

Cemoi
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TimMc wrote:
Are there some good 4000K emitter alternatives to the SST40 5000K for the SC31 Pro? (...) I wish it were warmer than 5000K.
Same for me, so I wrote a PM to Barry who answered: "I don’t know there is a HCRI version of SST40, if it’s available, I will try to use it."

Hence my newb question: as far as I understand, in order to swap a LED with another, both should have the same voltage (I believe some require 12V) and the same footprint, am I correct or should something else be taken into account? Is there a "compatibility table" somewhere, classifying the current LED models according to these two criteria?

TimMc wrote:
@Sofirn: Please add pogo pads near the spring
+1wink

Another newb question: if wired properly, could the USB-C port be used to flash the MCU? That would be the easiest solution, no need to disassemble the light at all.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

oweban
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5050 3V is almost bereft of decent emitters (especially w regards to high CRI). XML2 in <3000k is about it. Hence me ripping it out and popping a 3535 mcpcb in, but needed a new centering ring, 7mm (but slightly loose). Either way, much nicer now,

TimMc
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Cemoi wrote:


Hence my newb question: as far as I understand, in order to swap a LED with another, both should have the same voltage (I believe some require 12V) and the same footprint, am I correct or should something else be taken into account? Is there a “compatibility table” somewhere, classifying the current LED models according to these two criteria?

Similar Forward Voltage is required.

I think you can try to put a slightly smaller LED on a slightly larger pad (e.g. 3030 on 3535). TIR optic and reflector might need to be considered case by case…

SammysHP
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Success! My SC31 Pro now runs Anduril 2. Flashed without removing the driver!

It was surprisingly easy. First I removed the switch bezel, the silicone switch cover and pulled out the switch PCB to have a look at the driver. The wires are long enough. The MCU is located right in the middle of the big hole – how awesome!

So I made a little jig to update the firmware. A 4-pin pogo-pin adapter to contact pin 5-8 (MOSI, MISO, SCK and VCC). Without a matching PCB (0.05” pitch) this was the hardest part. My final solution was to use a ribbon cable (comes in 0.05” pitch), crimping the pogo pins onto the ends and glue everything to a piece of plastic. After the glue has dried, I covered everything in hotglue and heat shrink tube (that’s my usual way of making custom adapters). RST was hooked right into the leg and GND was the easiest: Just clamp it between the head and the battery tube.

Now that everything was in place I connected the programmer and my laptop, built the latest version of Anduril 2 with the SP36 config (which is used by Sofirn for all of their Anduril flashlights) and hit return.

Everything went well, so I could remove all wires and put the switch back together. Done, Anduril 2 update on the SC31 without removing the driver.

oweban
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WELL MR LAH DEE DAH

Tom E
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Nice! That's pretty cool!

SammysHP
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Btw it should also work with the usual ProgKey that fits Lexel’s drivers, Emisar etc. Four pins on the legs, the rest on the MCU. My first attempt was an all-in-one adapter with six pins, but I was not able to print such fine details with my 3D printer.

A little bit of silicone grease helps to screw on the switch bezel without rotating the switch cover and switch PCB.

Nachtfeuerzeug
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Very nice.

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, LH351D 4000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | SK Zoomie Nichia 5000k, C2 driver | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/5A 17mm & XM-L2 | Nichia 219C 2700K with gray S6 |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3)

longuylander
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I just got my 18350 tube for my Pro today. Using a Convoy S2+ clip, it’s now wonderfully sized and carried deep in my pocket. Because the light doesn’t draw a ton of amps, it still puts out its full power too. It will be a while before something replaces this light as my EDC.

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oweban wrote:
WELL MR LAH DEE DAH

I heard of him. Born in China. He lives down under now?

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

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Nah, he’s married to Queen Lah Tee Fah…

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drewski
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Has anyone else done any output/run time tests on the SC31 pro yet? That one earlier in this thread made it look like it’s really a 250 lumen flashlight with a “2000 lumen” burst for a few seconds.

SammysHP
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drewski wrote:
Has anyone else done any output/run time tests on the SC31 pro yet? That one earlier in this thread made it look like it’s really a 250 lumen flashlight with a “2000 lumen” burst for a few seconds.

The turbo is just for short bursts, indeed. A flashlight of this size cannot handle the heat.
Tom E
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SammysHP wrote:
drewski wrote:
Has anyone else done any output/run time tests on the SC31 pro yet? That one earlier in this thread made it look like it’s really a 250 lumen flashlight with a “2000 lumen” burst for a few seconds.
The turbo is just for short bursts, indeed. A flashlight of this size cannot handle the heat.

Just look at runtime graphs for other lightweight flashlights with too much power, for example the D4V2, even in Muggle mode:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1535656#comment-1535656

and here:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1319921#comment-1319921

Bigger Zebra here:

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/65105

Smaller Zebra here:

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/52033

Room temp runtimes without the light being held in hand are worse case scenarios. If usage is for a minute or two, then you could probably get away with 500-1000 lumens held in hand. Your hand acts as a thermal bridge to pull heat away.

Zebra flashlights are probably the best at thermal management, in the mechanical design, driver design, and firmware. Our firmware, like Anduril or Anduril2, is general purpose for lots of designs and has limitations based on the driver, LED's, mech design, etc. Zebra probably has about the best runtime graphs of all compact flashlights, meaning highest obtainable output over time.

how crazy is this
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drewski wrote:
Has anyone else done any output/run time tests on the SC31 pro yet? That one earlier in this thread made it look like it’s really a 250 lumen flashlight with a “2000 lumen” burst for a few seconds.

Would like to see more run time graphs as well. However, I know my SC31 Pro is not a 250 lumen light with a 2000 lumen burst! Lots of stuff going on here and lots I am not certain about. However, last night I put said light into top of ramp an stood it on the top of the fridge while I proceeded to do dishes and clean the kitchen. I know thermal ramps can be subtle and it can be difficult to judge lumen by eye. There is no way that I was cleaning the kitchen on only 250 lumen.

Wish I had the equipment to do the measurements. Mine calibrated the temp pretty accurate and I think the thermal management is fantastic. My rough guess is that this light will do somewhere over 500 lumen till the battery goes. I think it does very well indeed for the size of the light. It shouldn’t throw 100+ meters either but I am certain that it does.

drewski
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According to gchart’s test the pro held around 300-400 lumens for like 3 hours https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74573
. Definitely not as bad as my first impression, and considering all the other features this light has to offer, I may have one coming my way soon.

Of course better regulation could be had even in that size of tube light, like with the sp31 v2.0 or sp32a, which are basically the same size (in diameter) as the sc31 pro, but they can sustain over 500 lm for a few hours. Of course they are totally different drivers and don’t have the other features like usb-c, Anduril, so there’s always trade-offs.

Tom E
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Yep, gchart's chart looks about right: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74573

Thermal calibration is the trick smile

 

Felipe m bercilla jr
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Good day blf as a newbie I would like to ask some help how to access the led button to correct the position of led button lights my flashlight is sofirn sc31 pro I just bought recently. I had only few tools a circlip plier and few precision screwdriver.thank u so much.
If not too much a detailed instruction w/ picture pls once again thank u.

SammysHP
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Unscrew the bezel around the switch, pull out the cover.

Felipe m bercilla jr
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It’s done.
Thank u sammy.

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