YuvalS's Modification Class, 8th Annual BLF/OL contest entry topic

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MtnDon
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Maybe hot melt glue… it can be picked apart to remove if necessary. Or a silicone sealant. ??? Both easier to remove than something like epoxy.

YuvalS
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MtnDon wrote:
Maybe hot melt glue... it can be picked apart to remove if necessary. Or a silicone sealant. ??? Both easier to remove than something like epoxy.


Hot glue is a good idea just have to make sure it will not melt when the light is on Turbo....

After the drilling for the switch it is now the time for the cable gland, since I don't need it to be accessible as the switch and want to keep it protected I decide to hide it inside the heatsink. drilling between the aluminum walls was a bit off a challenge since the drill bit was caught all the time. luckily i found some strange drill bit in my kit that solved this problem.


than I had to use my biggest drill bit and some sanding to make enough place for the gland and a wrench
 

And of course tap the drill 


next step is fix the paint job before gluing everything....  

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

MRsDNF
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Whats the vice your using? Looks like an oldy but goody one.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

YuvalS
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MRsDNF wrote:
Whats the vice your using? Looks like an oldy but goody one.

My father got it as a present when his sister (my aunt) got born, she is almost 70 now.
It has no brand but is is better than most of today's branded tools.

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

YuvalS
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Today was coloring and gluing (and waiting for everything to dry) day....
First I had to scrub all adhesives residues, dirt etc. that came with the light 


And wait till it dries....
Than I applied several layers of black matte color
 

But it was worth the wait. I am very happy with the result. the matte is lot nicer than the original color (although I have no idea why they use color instead of anodize) 
   

And the last two steps for today were toe screw the cable gland (had to drill it to 5.5 mm to fit my cable) and glue the switch (as you guys advised) I used the heat sink plaster for this mission. It is strong enough (but not permanent)  and will will defiantly withstand the heat
 

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MRsDNF
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You have to love the old tools. Glad the vice is still being used.
Good to see more headway on the torch. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

YuvalS
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Today was "soldering and assembly" day: 
I glued the pill, driver, LEDs and optics to the body using heat-sink plaster


Then drilled thru the PCB and body holes for wires and soldered
 

And finished with soldering LEDs and driver, it finally starts to look like a headlamp 


I have already burnt a FW and tested it and it works great but I still have to modify the battery box before further tests, I have some interesting plans for the box Smile 


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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

MtnDon
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Cool. Looking forward to seeing what is planned.

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As promised, Today I worked on the battery box.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with caving lights, the battery box is placed at the back of the helmet and connected to the front part with a cable. It enable carrying many cells while distributing the weight evenly between the front and the back of the helmet, preventing the helmet falling over your face.

The original battery box was design to perfectly fit a 3S1P 18650 pack - I don't like packs since: you can not use the proprietary pack in other lights, cannot borrow or lend batteries from/to your friends during long trips and have to carry 2 sets of spare batteries: one for your main light and one for you backup light (which is usually smaller and use single cell).



I also didn't like the fact that the cable went out of the box on same direction as the nuts for closing the box. That way, if you place the box so the cable going down, you will probably lose a loosen nut and if you place it upside-down the cable is placed vulnerably and may get cut in tight passages.

So first, I drilled a new hole for the cable and placed a cable gland at the bottom of the box


Second step was to replace the battery pack with a 18650 battery holder so I can use regular interchangeable cells. I had to use 2 cells holder instead of the original 3 cells pack but I think it is worth it. (it is also less wight on the head).


I used the extra space for adding a USB charging module so it is easier to charge the cells at home or using a power bank at the filed.
This circuit also have a low voltage protection and it is a nice bonus.
   

I secured all the wires using hot glue to prevent damage over time caused by motion of the helmet. It does not look so nice but it is hidden in the battery box.
Last step was to verify charging and protection is working as planned.
I placed the charging module at the top of the box so no need to take the holder out to charge it and the indication LED are visible  


   

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

MtnDon
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Nice progress. Thumbs Up

MRsDNF
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Looking good YuvalS. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

YuvalS
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Just completed the last two tasks: battery box cover and final assembly:

As I mention, the original battery box had the cable glad on the cover, since I placed a new cable glad I had to make a new cover from Perspex piece I had a home.
I also cut some rubber to waterproof it 



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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

YuvalS
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And just wanted to make a new post for the final result pictures (with last year build too):
 






Now I only have to find a dark location for taking the beam shots 

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

MRsDNF
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That looks so professional YuvalS. Lor have made a real sweet torch. I hope you can put it to lots of use. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

YuvalS
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Finally Moon is not so bright and I was able to take some beam shots:

  

 

 

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

MtnDon
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Thumbs Up The sandy ground and the vegetation appear to be like the southwest US
YuvalS
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MtnDon wrote:
:THUMBS-UP: The sandy ground and the vegetation appear to be like the southwest US

It is Caesarea. Had to drive a bit to find a dark place.

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

MRsDNF
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Nice finish YuvalS. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pinkpanda3310
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Very cool headlamp YuvalS. I like the different beam profiles, better than a zoomie in my opinion Thumbs Up

  

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YuvalS wrote:

And just wanted to make a new post for the final result pictures (with last year build too):
 






Now I only have to find a dark location for taking the beam shots 


.
YuvalS, Sorry I missed your Finnish Facepalm
Your light looks very rugged and ready for caving or anything you can throw at it.
Great job on your modification build, although it looks like a handmade build. The driver board from scratch is something only a few here at BLF have done, so much to know and successfully make happen. You worked and planned very well on your competition mod build. We all enjoy and learn from you guys who make BLF such a nice forum, Thank You Thumbs Up
.

.
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Cool Cool Thumbs Up

YuvalS
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MRsDNF, pinkpanda3310, CNCman and MascaratumB, Thank you so much for your support and encouragement, hope my build helped and encouraged other BLF members to build their own caving lights or any other type of lights, I know I have learned so much from BLF members and the OL competitions, looking forward to the the final resultes of all the cool builds this year Smile  

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

Rdubya18
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Really nice build . Looks well thought out Thumbs Up

EasyB
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Impressive effort with making your own circuit board and FW! I love these purpose-built tools. Also I find that when you are making a tool with a more defined purpose there are more constraints in the design process and I enjoy it more.

Caving sounds exciting. Can you give some examples of when you would use the different beams and how often you would switch between them?

YuvalS
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EasyB wrote:
Can you give some examples of when you would use the different beams and how often you would switch between them?

Like everything related to lightning it depends on personal preference. 
Some cavers combine Spot and Flood beams But I personally don't like to combine beams.
For general caving I use the Flood beam and only use Spot beam when have to inspect far object such as bottom of a pit or ceiling of a dome. When rigging a vertical pit for abseiling you have to spot very small anchor points so I also use the narrow beam but only on about 50%.

It is hard to tell how often I switch between beams since it is really depends on the nature of the cave. Some caves are very narrow so no need for spot beam at all and other caves have huge halls or deep pits so you mainly have to use the spot

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My BLF/OL contest entries: 7th 8th 9th 

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