How about a Orange Dry with a brown center :) Tutorial as well!!!

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Langcjl
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This is a cheap Tmart 501. I suspected that these cheap 501s were painted. Guess not.

Piers said " ....but who wants enough light, when you have the option for far too much "

Old-Lumens
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Ok, I figured I would go for broke. It's a $4 light. I heated the head and tail cap. When I did the tail cap I heated right on the center post where the lanyard fit. It turned a bright color fast, then the rest of the cap started to turn and I took the heat off. It kept the color a little darker than the body.

Then I did the head and I started heating up on the bezel and when that turned I heated all round the bezel and stopped and sat it in the outdoors where the cool wind was blowing. It also stayed a darker color.

heat3

 

So..... Someone with an oxy-acetylene torch and a bucket of water needs to go sacrifice one of their lights.Laughing

Gives a new meaning to the word torch.Tongue Out

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Budgeteer
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My only grief it is that it turns orange. Why it didn't go in gun grey instead. :/ Would have loved that and "sacrificed" a few 504B hosts to do it.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

Rockspider
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Who is going to try what happens baking a blue or red anod? maybe other colors!

yavi
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I am giving a try on the oven with a 502D I already de-anodized the head, lets see the result...

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Probably different shades of orange. I suspect it's a chemical thing when anodization overheats and produces some side effect in the orange specter. However no1 knows how it would affect the anodization after cooked properly. Will it be less durable? I'm tempted to try a fake solarforce L2 which is shiny and i suspect it being painted rather than anodized. If it is painted it's really well made as it does not damage easily, at least equally good to the classic type 2 anodizing.

Will probably not try as i hate orange color with passion. (Why must it be orange anyway?!? Any other color would be nicer to me even yellow... blah!)

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

nitro
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i just did my L2 host and it turned out dark orange/copper, i used a torch so i can fade mine and its orange/copper on both ends and medium dark in the middle Smile very awesome looking only if i had a good camera Sad

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it isn't orange

1

 

yeah, a little darker tailcap, next time I will screw the body together, and the color changing will be equal. Very likeable color.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

keltex78
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I have my Super-Bright 7-2 in the toaster oven right now and it's getting a nice deep brown sheen!


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It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

watkins
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Just tried my kd c8, bezel went easy but the body won't  budge even a little?

I've left it under the grill for ages, and tried a a small butane torch on it for quite some time....any ideas?

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watkins wrote:

Just tried my kd c8, bezel went easy but the body won't  budge even a little?

I've left it under the grill for ages, and tried a a small butane torch on it for quite some time....any ideas?

Maybe the body is HA3.  Only type II ano is supposed to change color when heated.
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that's the way mine went and i though i screwed up, but i kept my torch in the same spot till u see it turning orange took about 2-4min

 

like he said it might be HA3 ?

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TF D1 titanium turned silver.  I tried a torch and if I could get it to turn a little gold'ish but when it cooled it went back to silver.  Oh well, I like it better than the titanium...

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nitro wrote:

i just did my L2 host and it turned out dark orange/copper, i used a torch so i can fade mine and its orange/copper on both ends and medium dark in the middle Smile very awesome looking only if i had a good camera Sad

Any camera will do. Wink

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

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Anyone tried the silver anodized L2 clones or other host? I wonder what color it would turn to.

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

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Ano type does seem to make a difference. I know these cheap lights I have would probably not have type III ano. Maybe only type II works, but most likely it will be just a little different color. As fas as things not turning with a torch, the thicker the wall, the longer it takes and that little torch I have gets very hot. Smaller butane torches may not even phase it. The more heat I used and the longer I did it, the brighter the color was. That's why the thin barrel is lighter. It got hotter and turned a lighter color. The head and tail cap are very thick and it look a long time, and I don't think I could have gotten it hot enough to turn light, since it's a large thick part. I think a hotter torch is needed on the thick lights. First it got dark orange, then lighter orange, then gold and on the tip of the tailcap (small post there), it turned yellow.

I haven't tried the oven yet and I'm leery to do so. I don't want to expose my wife to that, so I think I will stick with a torch and maybe I will try a hotter torch like mapp gas. Have to look in the big box stores.

It will be interesting to see what colors do.

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Couldn't get my ultraOK to change in the oven, even on full (250c). Used a hot air gun (paint stripper) and it worked pretty quick, had to hold it VERY close tho.

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I have also baked something in the oven:

 

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I wonder if this one was made by cooking it.

http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00kvAEQGoBZmqU/5-W-CREE-LED-2-Mode-Yellow-Light-Aluminum-Torch-Orange-.jpg

kragmutt wrote:

They're gonna send you a green redcat with a black LED.

yavi
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Here is my try, it is a bit darker than on the picture, I did not leave it much since it began to change its color in the oven, and I like it Smile

 

It took about half an hour placed at about 50mm from the heating resistance, at 250Cº

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Here's my SuperBright 7-2 complete with the Mr.BrightLights anodizing treatment and mini Foyzel job:

There were already a lot of scratches/wear since this is my EDC pocket light and gets carried with my keys. Its color transmogrified nicely. The body and tailcap turned into a nice Coppery-gold while the head remained a slightly darker shade, even though it has thinner walls and was the same distance from the heating element. This was after about 1.5 hrs. in my toaster oven on the hottest Broil setting.

 


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Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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Haha u guys are mad men ,lol well I'm glad u guys ar digging it,, yeh old lumens we did the torch for the tide dye or camo look as well ,, someone said bake ,, baking takes too long , the longer u broil it the lighter it will get ;). I love mt dry like this ,it was just plain before As for the other colors we did the grey and it turned a green color if memory serves me correct
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JohnnyMac wrote:

Not sure I'd want all of those mismatched parts as each piece from the oven appears to be a different shade.  What I could get into it some time with a heat gun or blow torch and some creative camouflage treatment as all the markings would line up on the assembled light.  Now that'd be pretty sweet!

In that picture they were just starting to cook that is why each piece was different Wink
Don
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Here's a very battered Uniquefire HS-802. The head was very seriously glued. See here for details of major maintenance. Baked at 300oC for around an hour.

Percussive maintenance

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

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Mr.BrightLights wrote:
Haha u guys are mad men ,lol well I'm glad u guys ar digging it,, yeh old lumens we did the torch for the tide dye or camo look as well ,, someone said bake ,, baking takes too long , the longer u broil it the lighter it will get ;). I love mt dry like this ,it was just plain before As for the other colors we did the grey and it turned a green color if memory serves me correct
While hitting them with a torch for the camo look did you dunk it to cool it off quickly so it wouldn't continue to change each time you torched a new camo marking on it?
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When we did it well I put the light in a mini vice and we do an area wait 5 minutes and hit another area , I never got the camo effect though I wasn't trying to , I was doing a splotchy like a tide eyed shirt look ,lol I never dipped mine , aluminum cools very quickly ,, btw disclaimer try at your own risk ,lol
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Oh I didn't use a torch either it was a Warner heat gun
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heated the TF D1 titanium in one spot w/ propane torch until the ano BUBBLED - still silver

edit; and that was the smallest, lightest part (bezel)

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I'll cook a silver 504B body soon just to see what happens.

I suspect nothing good. Type 2 anodising involves dyes - type 3 there are a very limited range of dyes that will work.

I can bake a type3 body in olive green (Fenix E01) as well. A few hours at 300C (Which is as high as my oven goes) will sort most anodising.

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0ApkFM37n_QnRdDU5MDNzOURjYllmZHI...

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Mr.BrightLights wrote:
When we did it well I put the light in a mini vice and we do an area wait 5 minutes and hit another area , I never got the camo effect though I wasn't trying to , I was doing a splotchy like a tide eyed shirt look ,lol I never dipped mine , aluminum cools very quickly ,, btw disclaimer try at your own risk ,lol

Ya, like snap crackle pop! Now I have to go Google Heat Treating Aluminum and Quenching...

 

Edit: I'm back Tongue Out- Okay, here's a little info I didn't know (there's a LOT I don't know).

Aluminum hardens in a totally different way from steel -- and is "annealed" differently too. To harden steel you heat it and quench it quickly. That's how you ANNEAL aluminum! Tempered aluminum's springiness comes mostly from its alloying elements. After annealing, the hardness will gradually return of its own accord.

Hardened aluminum can be temporarily annealed by heating it to about 500 degrees F, and quickly quenching it with cold water. It will then remain soft for between a few hours and a couple of days (depending on how hot the weather is); gradually regaining its original hardness. (To speed up the re-hardening, you can re-heat the aluminum in boiling water or a 250-degree oven for a half hour or so.)

Now I will try a "pattern" with a hotter torch and some water to keep the heated areas from slowly creeping outwards. It's worth a try...

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