Convoy designed me (us) a hunting flashlight (L21B)

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Simon Mao
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Is the surface of the previous design too smooth? How about changing to the following?

Funtastic
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Simon Mao wrote:
Is the surface of the previous design too smooth? How about changing to the following?

That’s much better then a smooth body. I prefer knurling

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Sirius9
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C8+ knurling is my favorite.

 

sochi111
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Simon Mao wrote:
Is the surface of the previous design too smooth? How about changing to the following?

I was wondering why was the #1 design so smooth and without cooling fins.
But then I realized you are a designing a purely weapon mounted light for hunting. So makes no difference.

But the knurling on #2 design look nicer Thumbs Up

lazerEagle
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Will the lighter L21A be able to come with the XHP35 HI still?

- the best way to predict the future is to create it -

Yooperlights
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I’m new here, just posted in the general info forum looking for a light something like this. Something like this with XHP70.2 and a forward clicky switch seems just what I’ve been looking for, so long as it’s happy with the rigors of living on a rifle. I could use several of something like that. I don’t know enough about lights yet to know what sort of emitters you’re talking about above, though.

I’ve had two dead Olights, a ho-hum Nitecore P30, same with a couple from Fenix. Simple, long throw, bright light, momentary or constant on with the switch… for my needs, I would want to be able to cycle the switch momentarily within seconds, without changing the light output or mode or whatever.

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Yooperlights wrote:
I’m new here, just posted in the general info forum looking for a light something like this. Something like this with XHP70.2 and a forward clicky switch seems just what I’ve been looking for, so long as it’s happy with the rigors of living on a rifle. I could use several of something like that. I don’t know enough about lights yet to know what sort of emitters you’re talking about above, though.

I’ve had two dead Olights, a ho-hum Nitecore P30, same with a couple from Fenix. Simple, long throw, bright light, momentary or constant on with the switch… for my needs

A forward clicky would be horrible for the 12 mode group firmware or anything else that uses multiple groups.

How is momentary useful on a rifle? It requires a hold of the switch, not sure how that’s possible when using a rifle.

Quote:
I would want to be able to cycle the switch momentarily within seconds, without changing the light output or mode or whatever.

How does that work? You mean activate momentary without it cycling the modes?. I still don’t understand how you’d do that on the gun.

Simon has moved to reverse clicky versions which works better for most. You could always get a remote pressure switch for that kind of thing or simply install a forward switch Smile

Quote:
I don’t know enough about lights yet to know what sort of emitters you’re talking about above, though.

The Osram leds are for very long ranges that have a very tight focused beam, not much flood at all.

My use will be just for lining up a shot, not really searching off the gun since there’s other lights better suited like the L21A

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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Yooperlights
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Everyone’s got different ways of accomplishing the same goals, eh Smile I had a good chuckle when I saw some pics online of lights mounted way the heck on top of rifle scopes, that’s nuts to me. It’s up in no-man’s land and directly in line of sight?! lol My rifles all have free-floated rails, and the lights are mounted 9 o’clock high… when gripping the rail/forestock, my thumb naturally falls directly onto the tail switch. I have three rifles with three different lights set up that way… love the interface, not so much the lights I have.

Works great! Just like you, I’m just using the light to line up a shot, and to verify that it’s clean. Light ‘er up, shoot, light out. Hand-held light for everything else as needed. For a strictly task-oriented application, I don’t see the sense in having a bunch of different modes. It’s kinda great being able to move from target to target without cycling to progressively lower outputs or leaving the light on continuously.

I really don’t like remote pressure switches. They add another component that can fail, more complexity and clutter. I like to keep it clean and simple. From cruising around here, it sounds like they tend to have parasitic drain on the battery, too? Or maybe I’m misunderstanding that.

You guys are wearing off on me though. I currently have no idea how to go about modding lights, but, um, yup, I might have to start playing around with swapping switches/drivers/emitters and whatever other voodoo is in those little monster torches! Shoot, if I could find a tailcap switch for my old M22, I’d be up a light (a Fenix remote pressure switch threaded on, but it was too deep). Might just be time to frankenstein my own lil torch!

Edit: I tried to upload a couple of pics of the technique, but it looks like I need a URL, can’t load directly from my computer?

pennzy
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That is the way I mount my rifle/shotgun lights. While mine are for home defense, they operate the same. 9 o’clock on the forearm puts the thumb where it can half press for momentary on or full press for full on. I can quickly remove the light with the flip of of a lever for hand carry. No wires or clutter.

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I’m a 3 o-clock guy..(left handed) thumb activation… when not running the vertical grip modded 900A on the AR10

The gauge I use the fore finger to activate…. my Truck gun is an AR15 Pistol with this Scout Light on it… I much prefer the Vertical 900A with Navigation LED’s and the XHP70 … all my lights are Fwd/Momentary switched, modded and potted and operational for over 6 years now, no issues. I do have the option of running a pressure pad…on most of them, but then these are not really meant for Hunting…so I don’t chance it, though the Surefire is a dual switch, even if you loose the pig tail..it still can be button activated…

. Navigation lights..

. Main Light..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Dunno if anyone mentioned it, but the Artemis is a zoomie that has red/green/white LEDs (yeah, all 3!) that slide into place under the lens. Also comes with not just a potentiometer-type tailcap, but a remote 3-button pressure-switch (up, down, momentary-on) that you could stickytape wherever you want it.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Yooperlights
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Nice! I like that you both seem to have QD mounts on them. I just have a separate handheld light, but ya know… sometimes it’s best to use what you already have. Hmmm.

I’m gonna have to do some reading, figure out what potting is and how to do the mods. That light on your shotgun looks superficially like what I have in mind.

How did you get pics up? Do you have to somehow hyperlink a file on your computer?

Edit: Given that I’ve got a handful of spendy lights that I don’t really like… I’m digging the DIY and budget-minded stuff here. Seems like there’s plenty of market for both tactical and hunting-oriented weapon lights though-

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Upload them first to imgur.com or similar and then click the pic icon and insert the link

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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daflip
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Funtastic wrote:
A forward clicky would be horrible for the 12 mode group firmware or anything else that uses multiple groups.

How is momentary useful on a rifle? It requires a hold of the switch, not sure how that’s possible when using a rifle.

How does that work? You mean activate momentary without it cycling the modes?. I still don’t understand how you’d do that on the gun.

Simon has moved to reverse clicky versions which works better for most. You could always get a remote pressure switch for that kind of thing or simply install a forward switch Smile

I (like the person you answered) am/is probably thinking of dual duty use as a tactical weapon light /or have option to. Forward Momentary on a tactical rifle with remote pressure switch is very useful in combat. In fact, the best setup. I’d like to think you guys can design a sort of dual mode (i.e. dual switch) for just 1 mode high, then regular mode as the other option. This would make the light more appealing to others and widen you target demographic.

Taking a look at your design and I feel like some people will not like the big reflector (I myself included). I’ve never seen a big reflector light mounted on a rifle before (combat nor hunting). Naturally I want my light to hug the rifle as close as possible. Having a smaller head allows this and also opens up the aftermarket mounting solutions because most manufactures design for lights that are more streamlined. Having a big reflector won’t aid in mounting options as the head will obstruct mounting (your mount is most likely proprietary to accommodate the extra width of the head). Also having a big reflector not only adds weight, but be more likely to snag, get caught on something, and make the setup more cumbersome overall. Also if you wanted to fit in a carry bag or case, this thing is gonna stick out like the scope, but at least the scope is mounted topside. You’ll probably have to design a QD mount to make it tolerable. I see your design as more of a handheld light than mounting on a rifle. With that being said, I think maybe should use it with a tripod mount (screw) instead of a weapon mount.

I got an old skool “clone-fire p60 setup on my AR9 (PDW use) and I’m in the market for a new weapon light system for my AR47 (yes, I said AR47). I’ve looked at many options and none of them tick all of the boxes I want. The Olight Odin did come come close though and has substantial flaws.

TBH, my perfect wml setup:
-Odin type of light (21700) with a Manker MC13 head (the throw to head size ratio is amazing. hybrid optic/reflectors are the future of throwers, imo). The MC13 spill is kinda useless for CQC though. I’d sacrifice a bit of throw for a usable spill
-4500k tint or warmer (warmer tint = less perceived glare).
-Dual modes with programming for light output. (i.e. you can program the light output of your 1 mode. full output or med for runtime. Maybe double tap for strobe). Dual Switch OK just as long as the second switch isn’t obstructing the main and not easily pressed (side switch).
-Surefire scout light mount compatibility or MLok/Keymod mount. Pic rails are becoming obsolete/less appealing. If going the “ring mount option” please add a forward/rear ring shoulders or stops to aid in securing the light (prevent sliding). Also QD.
-Pressure switch with constant on and momentary buttons (handguard mountable like stated above).
-USB C chargeable.
-Electronics, body, and secure connections built like a tank to withstand high recoil, high temperatures and rugged use.

Funtastic
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New Zealand seems to mount on the scope mostly, that’s also what Maxtoch focuses on and they’re the best seller. You want (I want) the flashlight weight balanced over the gun and having it on the barrel could cause an issue.

There’s hunters that shoot deer at over 1000 yards here

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Funtastic
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Maxtoch X Pro Hunter uses a 78mm diameter head for super long range and is what my customers want.

If someone wants a slim light then there’s other suitable models such as the C8+

Re: forward clicky

It would be fine but I don’t think Convoy is going to release a whole new range of drivers to suit all the different emitter options. The existing drivers suit a reverse clicky

Scope mounting would be better so there’s less glare on the suppressor

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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daflip
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Funtastic wrote:
Maxtoch X Pro Hunter uses a 78mm diameter head for super long range and is what my customers want.

Do you have a pic of a typical setup with this light? I gotta see this….

edit: nvrmnd. had to dig (non-google search) to find a pic but I must say very interesting. Not the type of setup I’d expect but if it works for that market then all good.

Funtastic
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daflip wrote:
Funtastic wrote:
Maxtoch X Pro Hunter uses a 78mm diameter head for super long range and is what my customers want.

Do you have a pic of a typical setup with this light? I gotta see this….

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

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https://i.imgur.com/3Y0snXN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6AVP5DA.jpg

Two setups, an AR10 with a Nitecore P30, and an AR15 with a Fenix TK22. In the last pic, you can see with them overlaid that the flashlights position in about the same place… about a foot forward of the optic. Weight is actually pretty centered, particularly given that it’s like a 165 g light balanced by 20 or 30 rounds of ammo. Daflip was right, tactical use as well. That P30 has a head size of 50mm, and it jusssst fits with the offset mount I’m using. I would really like a light with more throw on a different rifle, and I keep getting drawn to the Acebeam T27… but mounting it would require sticking it straight off the side of the mlok.

I didn’t mean to hijack the thread or anything. But for Simon at Convoy, it sounds like there’s another shooting market you could appeal to. A scope-mounted light would be absolutely useless for more tactical/home defense options, although it clearly is a great tool for some serious long-range hunters… just like having a bunch of modes would be a nightmare for some shooters, but matter of course and necessary for others.

Funtastic
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Yooperlights wrote:

I didn’t mean to hijack the thread or anything. But for Simon at Convoy, it sounds like there’s another shooting market you could appeal to. A scope-mounted light would be absolutely useless for more tactical/home defense options, although it clearly is a great tool for some serious long-range hunters… just like having a bunch of modes would be a nightmare for some shooters, but matter of course and necessary for others.

In New Zealand we can’t use a weapon for home defense. We can use for hunting or a gun range only.

Since our terrorist attack on two mosques last year we were restricted in which guns we can now own

Everyone else’s uses are great but aren’t going to be used in New Zealand.

I do agree that I’d prefer drivers with 3 modes and a second option of a adjustable High only. The reason I thought of multiple modes is that’s the drivers currently sold by Convoy.

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lazerEagle wrote:
Will the lighter L21A be able to come with the XHP35 HI still?

In addition to being lighter than the original L21A, other aspects are the same, it can also be installed with XHP35 HI

Chatika vas Paus
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I’ve never had any contact with gun flashlights, but a friend asked me to make one and I have some questions. My base is C8 + with a green osram from Simon.

The first question is about the driver. Should he be potted or is it not necessary? Will the components withstand the shock when fired?

The second concerns the led centering. I have noticed that there is a small tolerance at the centering washer and it is enough to lightly tap the flashlight so that the perfect centering is no longer perfect. Tapping again in the correct direction helps re-center the led perfectly. Each shot will move the reflector and washers. How to prevent this movement of the reflector and centering washer? Glue the washer to the mcpcb?

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No.
Yes.
If reflector and centering washer can move and you have everithing screwed tight then you did something wrong.

 

Chatika vas Paus
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I didn’t do anything wrong. The point is, these “round” centering washers are not perfect.

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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
I didn’t do anything wrong. The point is, these “round” centering washers are not perfect.

Well, I did not have that situation before! Maybe sometimes hole for emitter was a bit larger but they always fit reflector perfectly with no wiggle room whatsoever.
This looks like XPL HI and 9mm reflector, I would do this: take a centering washer for osram leds and with fine sandpaper expand the hole slightly until it fits snugly, that will fix the problem with led-fit but I do not see the way to fix reflector wigling! check other washers you have, I never had that situation.

 

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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
I’ve never had any contact with gun flashlights, but a friend asked me to make one and I have some questions. My base is C8 + with a green osram from Simon.

The first question is about the driver. Should he be potted or is it not necessary? Will the components withstand the shock when fired?

The second concerns the led centering. I have noticed that there is a small tolerance at the centering washer and it is enough to lightly tap the flashlight so that the perfect centering is no longer perfect. Tapping again in the correct direction helps re-center the led perfectly. Each shot will move the reflector and washers. How to prevent this movement of the reflector and centering washer? Glue the washer to the mcpcb?

Potting is probably only something needed with a really high caliber rifle, the C8’s used up to a .308 have had no issues over 4 years.

I can’t say I’ve had this issue with the C8+, it fits quite nicely,also tapping has no effect.

Maybe the reflector was made a little too large

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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Have run a C8-2 (KDLitker), and Sofirn’s: C8T, C8A, and older version C8F (18650) with standard drivers (but larger springs replaced in a few for a tighter battery hold). Most did time over a 270 with zero issues.

ZappaMan

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Funtastic,
how is this flashlight coming along Cool

Funtastic
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sochi111 wrote:
Funtastic, how is this flashlight coming along Cool

It’s in production, maybe 2 months away. It’ll be a 2021 release I’d say

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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sochi111
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Funtastic wrote:
sochi111 wrote:
Funtastic, how is this flashlight coming along Cool

It’s in production, maybe 2 months away. It’ll be a 2021 release I’d say

2021 will be a good year Thumbs Up

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