It’s surprising to me how little activity there is in this subforum. Are there any other communities on the web that focus on high quality LED home/commercial lighting sources (not just for growing weed)?

I choose Incandescent because I cant figure out which LED option to choose

for the most part I find LED house lighting makes for muddy colors

and I get lost reading ads, hunting for relevant specs

Im considering buying this,
90-CRI-Light-Bulb-2700k

do you know if it is going to give as good color as incandescent?

here is a
5000k 90CRI option

maybe good in a kitchen or workshop

I have not figured out how to find the duv (Tint) specs for those options

help welcome

I thought, “Tint free” only applies to emitters on par with, or better than Nichia Optisolis 5000K/6500K (up to 4000K, they are inferior, because of fundamental differences – they have a noticeable light blue/cyan weakness (dip), which the higher CCT Optisolis don’t).

Even Luminus SST-20 and Nichia E21A at ~95-96 CRI exhibit some kind of tint.

No offense, but at only 93 CRI, I feel like I was being clickbaited

(Still, upgrading to lower 90-ish CRI still does worth from the so-called “standard” 80 CRI)

Edit: it seems, that I didn’t read all, which was written. So you apply correction painting manually. Ok, now I got it.

jon_slider wrote:

I choose Incandescent because I cant figure out which LED option to choose

for the most part I find LED house lighting makes for muddy colors

and I get lost reading ads, hunting for relevant specs

Im considering buying this,
90-CRI-Light-Bulb-2700k

do you know if it is going to give as good color as incandescent?

here is a
5000k 90CRI option

maybe good in a kitchen or workshop

I have not figured out how to find the duv (Tint) specs for those options

help welcome

Joshk wrote:

Yea, Sunlike are good. And $22 per bulb.

It really isn’t possible to have a sufficient heatsink and reliable driver for less than that. I still use quite a few cheap Hyperikon bulbs but I’m replacing them as they die with Sunlike. One nice side effect of having beefy drivers is that the Sunlike bulbs don’t flicker when my car is charging which around a third of my hyperikon bulbs do.

What does the driver look like? That’s the most likely reason for its premature death.

Joshk wrote:

I just did a count, today’s dead bulb brings the total to 20. 20 bulbs x $20 each = $400 lost. I wanted to send them in and lay claim to that 20-year warranty they had, but the receipt paper has gone blank from 5 years worth of age as it always does. I’m probably screwed.

Have they even sold those bulbs for 20 years? You can probably make an argument based on this

I warrantied my Cree TW bulb, called them, they sent me a new bulb. No receipt, they just use what’s printed on the bulb, super easy.

Joshk wrote:

Yea, Sunlike are good. And $22 per bulb.

In many cases you get what you pay for. SunLike has great heatsinking, while I’ve heard many horror stories about Hyperikon and even widely known retail brands. Seems some of it has been sanitized or new versions have been listed, but I stopped counting how many pics there were of Hyperikon bulbs that had literally singed and/or melted their base on the Amazon product page when I first looked into them.

adam7027 wrote:

I thought, “Tint free” only applies to emitters on par with, or better than Nichia Optisolis 5000K/6500K (up to 4000K, they are inferior, because of fundamental differences – they have a noticeable light blue/cyan weakness (dip), which the higher CCT Optisolis don’t).

Even Luminus SST-20 and Nichia E21A at ~95-96 CRI exhibit some kind of tint.

No offense, but at only 93 CRI, I feel like I was being clickbaited

(Still, upgrading to lower 90-ish CRI still does worth from the so-called “standard” 80 CRI)

Edit: it seems, that I didn’t read all, which was written. So you apply correction painting manually. Ok, now I got it.

Tint/Duv is a completely independent factor from CRI/Ra. The former is how rosy or greenish the light is. Optisolis are actually a bit above the BBL in order to match natural sunlight as closely as possible, which is the goal of the product – this led to some disappointed buyers when Clemence sold the Optisolis Jet-u for example (because they didn’t fully understand the design/goal of the emitter, not that it was a bad product).

Joshk wrote:

See post #14 and #18. Price, name recognition, and a year warranty doesn’t guarantee anything. Have you found any proof of your claims about review manipulation yet? Because as I recall the last few times you brought it up we just assumed they were offering a different high-power 100w replacement bulb that couldn’t take the heat, and therefore that model got discontinued. But there’s no evidence of this bulb ever having the issue you claim. Go have a look, because you can’t buy off all reviewers, and even trying takes time, so there should be proof. Show me proof.

You can’t have heatsinking without mass and/or surface area, and Hyperikon lists their bulbs at 41g each per the Amazon page. The Phillips, SunLike, Waveform and other brands I haven’t had any failures from (including in slightly enclosed fixtures) are significantly more massive than that, and often have extended bases.

First (only) two images on this listing: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-Qualified-UL-Listed...

Joshk wrote:

That’s what I thought, you have never owned one and say they all melt but have zero proof of this. Seriously? I mean, didn’t you and me go over this at least twice in years past?

I’m… not going to buy a product with so many accounts of failure?

Quote:

and say they all melt

That actually wasn’t what I said. Insufficient thermal properties are leading to an excessive number of failures and reduced product life span for too many customers for me to have confidence in their reliability and longevity.

Quote:

have zero proof of this

Please look at the link.

What you’re doing is a great idea, and I know this site is Budget Light Forum but frankly the base product is not something I have any confidence in and I think there’s ample evidence to support that compared to competing models. You should consider offering other brands bulbs that have been tested and vetted here with the coating IMHO. This brand is clearly saving on overhead big time somewhere and since I buy LED bulbs for longevity, it’s not worth the risk.

Maybe Hyperikon has improved newer models, but until I see evidence of that I will be suspicious of the specs (i.e. weight) and the numerous accounts of poor QC.

I’m using the GE reveal hd+ led in my house…do these suck or something?