FireflyLite E12R 12*emitters 15000LM 1x21700 Flashlight

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SKV89
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stephenk wrote:
Robin Dobbie wrote:
Wouldn’t that depend greatly on the emitter, ambient temp, and how much of the light was being held by a hand(at whatever temperature)?
Yes it would, but I think it is something that manufacturers need to be more honest about. I know so many muggles who have bought a zillion lumen pocket rockets only to find out that after a few minutes they are dimmer than a $20 light from a hardware store.

Sustained lumens will depend on which emitter also along with the many other parameters. For example, SST-20 90CRI will sustain about half of the lumens of the XPL-HI. The driver can regulate 6A and output will lower once temperature exceeds the set threshold that is modifiable by the user. If you have your hands on the light while using and if you are in cool temperature with a breeze outdoor, it should be no problem sustaining the output at 6A.

You can calculate the approximate lumens using this simple calculator.
http://www.ledcalc.fonarevka.ru/?pct&LedCount=2&Imin=250&Imax=3000&Istep...

Robin Dobbie
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stephenk wrote:
Robin Dobbie wrote:
Wouldn’t that depend greatly on the emitter, ambient temp, and how much of the light was being held by a hand(at whatever temperature)?
Yes it would, but I think it is something that manufacturers need to be more honest about. I know so many muggles who have bought a zillion lumen pocket rockets only to find out that after a few minutes they are dimmer than a $20 light from a hardware store.

It’s probably been said before, but if we can’t even get standardized reviews that include maximum sustainability from the tiny handful of light reviewers that are worth paying attention to(they all hang out here, as far as I know), I don’t know how fair it is to start asking manufacturers the hard questions. Especially from ones that don’t mention runtimes. We all know a lot of lights have a max lumen rating and a max runtime on the package or sales page that can’t possibly hold up to reality. To my knowledge Firefly(whatever) doesn’t do this. I hate to say it, but I don’t think we can ask more than that from a company.

will34
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My guess is around 1,200lm if they allow it to get uncomfortably warm, on anything other than XPL

Thujone
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will34 wrote:
My guess is around 1,200lm if they allow it to get uncomfortably warm, on anything other than XPL

It is up to you to calibrate and configure temp ceiling in Anduril.

Lightbringer
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Yep. Had 2 identical lights (not Fireflies), one was within a degree at room temp (both left untouched for hours to equilibrate), and the other was reading something like 45°C even though room temp was something like 21°C.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

oakey22
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I am interested in one of these, what will the price point be?

Fructi
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Do you plan to also ship them with the 219b sw45k? I’d buy one of those, otherwise just a E07 for me.

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Fructi wrote:
Do you plan to also ship them with the 219b sw45k? I’d buy one of those, otherwise just a E07 for me.

I just ordered my Nichia 219B E07 for the same reason. When it arrives, I will finally have all of their 219B lights except that little AAA light.

It looks like Fireflies will have headed and ruled the best emitter era and lights to date and maybe for a long time. 219B’s are EPIC EPIC EPIC and the way Fireflies used them was equally EPIC EPIC EPIC. It’s a damn shame those are discontinued. I literally want nothing more light-wise than for these emitters to come back out of retirement.

People have said the E21a’s are better but I just don’t buy that. From what I’ve read and heard, they are not as rosy, and their tint-shift once noticed, is crazy annoying. That certainly doesn’t sound like a better emitter at all

SKV89
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Not true about the E21A tint shift. From what I’ve seen, it has less tint shift than Cree and Samsung emitters in general.

@Lojik
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I don’t have one so it’s def not my personal opinion. In the research I’ve done, because I want the next 219B, I’ve found these complaints often. As I understand it, it’s more around the outer parts of the spill and what it is is some pretty bad yellowing.

The only light I saw mentioned that hid that a bit because that part of the beam was bouncing off the inside of the head, was Hanks D4v2 w/ E21a’s. Aside from that, the consensus is that the E21a just doesn’t have that Rosy pop of the 219B’s.

I may get the new Fireflies Nuv-mo w/ E21a’s just to know for myself, but at this point I already don’t expect it to be a replacement for my Killer B’s.

SKV89
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The E21A 4500k is almost as rosy as the sw45k 219b but it depends on the batch. If you want super rosy, you can mix E21A such as 2000k with 6500k and it will turn out much more rosy than the 219b sw45k.

Even with the bezel off the D4v2, you won’t really noticed the tint shift unless someone tells you to look for it. It is not severe like the typical Cree and Samsung emitters.

@Lojik
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SKV89 wrote:
The E21A 4500k is almost as rosy as the sw45k 219b but it depends on the batch. If you want super rosy, you can mix E21A such as 2000k with 6500k and it will turn out much more rosy than the 219b sw45k.

Even with the bezel off the D4v2, you won’t really noticed the tint shift unless someone tells you to look for it. It is not severe like the typical Cree and Samsung emitters.

REALLY…I’ve never seen that mentioned in my searches. Great, now I’m gonna scour the internet endlessly for everything on mixed E21A emitters LOL

My understand (which can be wrong) is that the rosiest of all the Nichia’s is the 219b SW45. The lower or higher you go, the less rosiness you can expect. So I am surprised to hear that 2000 and 6500 will yield a tremendous rozay. That mix would ultimately yield a 4250k tint which does sound lovely.

But honestly, all (currently available) iterations of E21A lights are still very low lumen. So even if I got say the D4v2, I’d be going way down from the E07 or ROT66, heck even from the PL47. This is exactly why I LOVE Fireflies, they’re the only ones approaching Nichia’s the way they are (high output lights).

Well Thank you very much for enlightening me on this. Now I know what to do when I end up getting an E21A light.

Oh also,

The way I heard the outer tint-shift issue put that stuck with me, was that it IS minor and on the outside, until you notice it. But then once you do, you notice it always and can’t get it out of your head. Pretty much what I read verbatim in a few long discussions about Nichia’s.

FireFlies
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Now E12R has been validated all the features of newest Anduril 2 designed by toykeeper . So far all functions work fine without any bug. Will keep testing more.

We did a bit adjustment to the current draws in the basic ramp mode.

Factory-reset Basic mode sets as follow:

- Low power at ~30mA
- High power at ~ 6000mA

So in basic mode it is full current regulated.

Advanced mode is full funtion of Anduril V2

JordanZHP
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FireFlies wrote:
Now E12R has been validated all the features of newest Anduril 2 designed by toykeeper . So far all functions work fine without any bug. Will keep testing more.

We did a bit adjustment to the current draws in the basic ramp mode.

Factory-reset Basic mode sets as follow:

- Low power at ~30mA
- High power at ~ 6000mA

So in basic mode it is full current regulated.

Advanced mode is full funtion of Anduril V2

Great news, thank you for the update! I think LH351D will be awesome.

Lux-Perpetua
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Robin Dobbie
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I already forgot if Anduril 2 in whatever mode allows for maximum turbo to be set as momentary mode, AND if we can then, after exiting momentary mode, have instant, or any kind of repeatable access to maximum regulated output.

ma tumba
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I wonder if the colored leds could be swapped for e21a so that there is a reasonable low lumen high cri flood?

Umpi2000
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This light really looks good for me Big Smile

WolfiCZ
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I need this lamp with Samsung LH351D HI CIR emiters (4000°K) Love

head lamps:Fireflies PL47 Gen.I XP-L2 HI 4000°K, Skilhunt H02  (4000°K), Fenix HL30, Fenix HL12R, Nitecore NU20, Fenix HP11, Nitecore HA20,

hand light: Wuben apollo A21 (neutral white), BLF A6, Convoy S2+ Nichia 365nm UV, Convoy S2 XM-L2 4000°K, Klarus G30

ma tumba
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The tint shift in the e21a is LESS pronounced that in any 219 emitter. And by a large factor.

But it is still not acceptable to me in anything but a TIR optics that can do proper color mixing of the outer green part of the beam and inner rosy one.

Unlike just an ugly duv of an entire beam that can be corrected by a color filter, almost nothing can be done to tint shift.

In practice, however, this is critically important if you often use your mule at short distance, so that the entire beam is just in front of you. If you have a powerful mule to illuminate large area, then the green (and fainter) part will be somewhere at the edge of your field of view and you never tell it is there unless you look for it.

But in the end of the day I dont see a reason to use anything other than an optisolis or sunlike in a mule. For 21 LEDs, 6amps is just 300ma/LED which sn optisolis can survive forever

FlashIight
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I may have missed it, but is there an estimate of when this light will be available?

Robin Dobbie
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Not soon enough. I keep getting tempted by lesser offerings at very low prices that I know I ultimately won’t be happy with.

twodollarbill
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I’m interested.

LumenMax
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FlashIight wrote:
I may have missed it, but is there an estimate of when this light will be available?

 

End of the month, I think.

SKV89
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ma tumba wrote:
The tint shift in the e21a is LESS pronounced that in any 219 emitter. And by a large factor.

But it is still not acceptable to me in anything but a TIR optics that can do proper color mixing of the outer green part of the beam and inner rosy one.

Unlike just an ugly duv of an entire beam that can be corrected by a color filter, almost nothing can be done to tint shift.

In practice, however, this is critically important if you often use your mule at short distance, so that the entire beam is just in front of you. If you have a powerful mule to illuminate large area, then the green (and fainter) part will be somewhere at the edge of your field of view and you never tell it is there unless you look for it.

But in the end of the day I dont see a reason to use anything other than an optisolis or sunlike in a mule. For 21 LEDs, 6amps is just 300ma/LED which sn optisolis can survive forever

I used several mules with different emitters and for all practical purposes the tint shift at the edge is really not noticeable and will not affect picture taking. The beam is almost a whopping 180degrees wide and the tint shift is beyond your peripheral vision. The tint shift is beyond the field of view of even the widest ultra wide cameras.

I have no problem with Optisolis and Sunlike emitters as I’m sure it will have its own niche. But for the size it takes to accommodate 21 of those LEDs, we can accommodate probably twice as many E21A. Lumen Output would be many, many times brighter and run more efficient with the E21A.

ma tumba
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SKV89 wrote:
ma tumba wrote:
The tint shift in the e21a is LESS pronounced that in any 219 emitter. And by a large factor.

But it is still not acceptable to me in anything but a TIR optics that can do proper color mixing of the outer green part of the beam and inner rosy one.

Unlike just an ugly duv of an entire beam that can be corrected by a color filter, almost nothing can be done to tint shift.

In practice, however, this is critically important if you often use your mule at short distance, so that the entire beam is just in front of you. If you have a powerful mule to illuminate large area, then the green (and fainter) part will be somewhere at the edge of your field of view and you never tell it is there unless you look for it.

But in the end of the day I dont see a reason to use anything other than an optisolis or sunlike in a mule. For 21 LEDs, 6amps is just 300ma/LED which sn optisolis can survive forever

I used several mules with different emitters and for all practical purposes the tint shift at the edge is really not noticeable and will not affect picture taking. The beam is almost a whopping 180degrees wide and the tint shift is beyond your peripheral vision. The tint shift is beyond the field of view of even the widest ultra wide cameras.

I have no problem with Optisolis and Sunlike emitters as I’m sure it will have its own niche. But for the size it takes to accommodate 21 of those LEDs, we can accommodate probably twice as many E21A. Lumen Output would be many, many times brighter and run more efficient with the E21A.

I am sure that a light of given size would have a lot more power under the hood with e21a than that with those low power ones, thats pretty obvious. And for sure, for photography, when one needs just short flashes this power advantage is great.

Tubercle
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I hope Jack will take all the time they need to optimize and tune the light before release. No need to rush. I will hold off on buying lesser offerings before this is available.

Pixll
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Sorry, I'm not quite understanding how the constant current buck driver will interact with Anduril.

Will the <6A ramps (while battery V > LED V) all somehow be handled by the buck driver (I'm assuming PWM given that it's constant current?), and everything above handled by PWM on the FET driver? In which case, it would essentially act like a massive and more efficient version of a 7135 chip? And in which case, wouldn't the lowest modes have quite poor efficiency from having to smoothly PWM all the way down from 6A?

I'm working with limited driver/electronics knowledge here, so please correct me if any of my assumptions are wrong.

contactcr
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Pixll wrote:
Sorry, I’m not quite understanding how the constant current buck driver will interact with Anduril.

Will the LED V) all somehow be handled by the buck driver (I’m assuming PWM given that it’s constant current?), and everything above handled by PWM on the FET driver? In which case, it would essentially act like a massive and more efficient version of a 7135 chip? And in which case, wouldn’t the lowest modes have quite poor efficiency from having to smoothly PWM all the way down from 6A?

I’m working with limited driver/electronics knowledge here, so please correct me if any of my assumptions are wrong.

You may or may not get an answer from them on this but here is another buck+fet anduril driver (lume1) from one of our members:

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/71616

In the case of lume1, for batt V > LED V the buck portion takes over and has no PWM with max 3A current. Above 3A your only option is full FET (so no PWM here either).

Cloud
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What’s the candella/ throw on ER12? And the beam profile/ angle?
Thanks

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