Super-Visible Beam/Vertical Column of Light Project

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Neurotoxin
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grin wrote:
The buffalo glass mirrors are very good quality and the easiest way to get the effect you are looking for. The HID is cheap and doesnt need so much cooling.
!{width:40%}https://i.imgur.com/BNCm4Yz.jpg!

Is there any thread you could point me to of a how to of someone building a really high power spotlight? I don’t care about efficiency or size, I’d just love to build something that can be seen from miles and miles away and can throw a very defined beam at the clouds miles up in the air. Preferably something that’s relatively affordable to build too, under a thousand dollars and even better if it didn’t total more than $500. I just wanna obliterate the clouds and have a “batman signaler” type of beam. I’ve always wanted one of those since I was a kid.

I just like shining my lights into the dark out of pure enjoyment and awe.
We've come far technologically and it's crazy to imagine what the future holds.

kennybobby
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Go read grin’s threads.

Now i used to think that i was cool,
drivin' around on fossil fuel,
until i saw what i was doin',
was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

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A royal blue LED is going to be more visible in the air than white. More efficient also.

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Endermann did a bunch of those. Nice reflex lights with water-cooling, you could take out the Death Star with one of those.

Well, maybe.

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kennybobby
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Please do it and take out that Death Star—that thang has been such a pain in my arse.

Now i used to think that i was cool,
drivin' around on fossil fuel,
until i saw what i was doin',
was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

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Same here. Always blowing up my favorite planets…

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Dr scott Diabol...
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Neurotoxin:

Search on this forum and/or YouTube for Lightcanon (one ‘n’, misispelled by Enderman on purpose) and “Optafire”. Those are Enderman’s large aspheric projects. Basically, they’re what I’m trying to replicate.

As for carbon arcs, http://www.victorysearchlights.com/jbl5.htm

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grin wrote:
The buffalo glass mirrors are very good quality and the easiest way to get the effect you are looking for. The HID is cheap and doesnt need so much cooling. !{width:40%}https://i.imgur.com/BNCm4Yz.jpg!

Thanks for the update. Is this your project?

FYI: I promised my professional lighting engineer relatives (who design very large lighting systems for stadiums, high bays, etc) and that I wouldn’t try short-arc HIDs. I was cautioned that miscalculating the optics, or using a sketchy reflector, could reflect light back into the lamp. And that would cause it to explode and shower a 10-ft area with 1,000-3,000 degree shrapnel traveling at Mach 6. According to them, it’s already happened more than once and has killed at least one person. LEDs may be low power compared to an Osram short-arc. But a white flat probably wont try to kill me and burn my house down if I look at it wrong.

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grin
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No worries, I have many lights half built, I have also experimented with different reflectors/mirrors and lens.
One thing I will say about both and is something to think about.
A short focal length will give you a fatter beam and more lumens.
A long focal length will give you a narrower beam with less lumens.
This can be demonstrated with a jig I made, the lens dont really matter for what I am trying to explain. But they are spherical from edmunds optics primary 150mm dia 600mmFL, secondary is 100mm dia 100mm focal length.



Neurotoxin
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Dr scott Diabolical – Evil Genius wrote:
Neurotoxin:

Search on this forum and/or YouTube for Lightcanon (one ‘n’, misispelled by Enderman on purpose) and “Optafire”. Those are Enderman’s large aspheric projects. Basically, they’re what I’m trying to replicate.

As for carbon arcs, http://www.victorysearchlights.com/jbl5.htm


Thank you, will do, likely tomorrow as it’s late and was just getting on the laptop very quickly to upload a pic in another thread and go back to Netflix. Looking forward to seeing more progress from your project!

And Jesus Christ, those carbon arcs sure are worth a pretty penny!

I just like shining my lights into the dark out of pure enjoyment and awe.
We've come far technologically and it's crazy to imagine what the future holds.

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New parts have arrived! (most of them)

Spotlight project:
3.3vdc, 40 amp CC power inverter/supply
Osram CSLNM1.TG
3.1 amp driver
Arctic Silver 5
old penny (for size reference)
Still no word from Fasttech regarding the lens, except that “expected delivery” is tomorrow. Considering that’s in communist-years, actual delivery may be later. We shall see.

Halloween/Christmas display:
12vdc, 29 amp CC power inverter/supply
Ray Wu’s Store (on Aliexpress) “10-watt” dumb RGB floodlights, IP-66 rated
Light-O-Rama CMB-24 controller (already had that, included for reference)

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Neurotoxin
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Yesss, parts are getting here.. hopefully the remainder arrive in a timely manner. Big Smile

I just like shining my lights into the dark out of pure enjoyment and awe.
We've come far technologically and it's crazy to imagine what the future holds.

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The 12v rgb flooders are up and running. I ran them through the basic “hardware test utility” for about an hour.

Flash flood warning:

I’ll probably start testing the spotlight this weekend.
Still no word from Fasttech, but I doubt they’ve even shipped my lens. Looks like that’s going to be the McGuffin.

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nottawhackjob
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grin wrote:
No worries, I have many lights half built, I have also experimented with different reflectors/mirrors and lens. One thing I will say about both and is something to think about. A short focal length will give you a fatter beam and more lumens. A long focal length will give you a narrower beam with less lumens. This can be demonstrated with a jig I made, the lens dont really matter for what I am trying to explain. But they are spherical from edmunds optics primary 150mm dia 600mmFL, secondary is 100mm dia 100mm focal length.

Isn’t this just a typical aspheric lens setup in yer typical zoomie when ya zoom-in and zoom-out? I mean no special demonstration jig necessary, right? LOL Grad

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

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Intriguing project and great results so far. Subscribed! Wink

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Dr scott Diabolical – Evil Genius wrote:
The 12v rgb flooders are up and running. I ran them through the basic “hardware test utility” for about an hour.

Flash flood warning:

I’ll probably start testing the spotlight this weekend.
Still no word from Fasttech, but I doubt they’ve even shipped my lens. Looks like that’s going to be the McGuffin.


Pretty colors! Hopefully that lens gets a move on. I had A BUNCH of orders that I had placed about a month ago, and I thought they’d never get here but I received several packages yesterday and got two more packages today. All were mailed in 2nd day air. I really, really don’t understand what’s going on with sellers. They could have just been faster to mail my stuff with cheap shipping instead of waiting till the last minute and having to pay for 2nd day air to meet the deadline.

I just like shining my lights into the dark out of pure enjoyment and awe.
We've come far technologically and it's crazy to imagine what the future holds.

Dr scott Diabol...
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Still no real news on the lens. Fasttech’s site now says “Expected ship date” is 8/12. But as we’ve seen, that’s in communist-days. So… maybe I’ll get it by Christmas??? I think one of the reasons shipping is so slow is because the front office/sales dept/marketing wanks don’t know or care what’s actually in the warehouse. And the poor warehouse schlubs get tons of orders they can’t fill because the warehouse is jammed with inventory nobody wants, but is completely out of what people did order. So they have to sit on the tickets until a shipment of XXX comes in. Then they have to work like mad and air-mail everything out because management wants to know why those orders haven’t shipped and insists they go TODAY. Of course, mgt will never admit that their darling salesforce/marketing wanks could be wrong, so… yeah. I worked for “that company” several times in my career.

S’ok. I haven’t even started soldering yet. And I still need to work out a final design for the heat sink. I really like the liquid cooling rig CNCMan built for his “pot lid” light. But I want to be able to swap leds. So I’m working on a mechanical hold-down clamp design instead of using thermal epoxy. I already have a pump that I think will work. I salvaged it from my old dishwasher a few years ago. It’s 120vac, but that’s not a problem for this project. Unfortunately though, my time is rather limited. I’m rebuilding my backyard deck and that is sucking up most of my energy. It’s got to be done by Oct 1 due to the Colorado climate. And I’ve got a ton of other projects waiting behind it.

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Fun project, I wish you the best Smile

High intensity LED and a big reflector/lens is the most important part.

The bigger your optic is the less it will matter if you use a small size LED.

For anything below 30cm diameter I would recommend the SBT90.2, but if you go bigger then you can find larger LEDs that make more lumens for pretty cheap from china.

Feel free to use these calculators to get some rough estimates of your performance: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/57049

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Enderman wrote:
Fun project, I wish you the best Smile

High intensity LED and a big reflector/lens is the most important part.

The bigger your optic is the less it will matter if you use a small size LED.

For anything below 30cm diameter I would recommend the SBT90.2, but if you go bigger then you can find larger LEDs that make more lumens for pretty cheap from china.

Feel free to use these calculators to get some rough estimates of your performance: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/57049

Thanks for the advice. I’ve been following your work for a few years now. Remember the video where you said “maybe this will help someone in the future”? Well… here we are. I chose to start with the Osram due to cost. $15 for the mcpcb & driver from Mountain. Not much to loose if this project doesn’t work out. And the 1mm die size seemed to work well for you when coupled with the 100mm Fasttech lens. I don’t have the advantage of the Wavien, but the flat white does have pretty good performance. If everything goes awesomely well, then I’ll consider upgrading to a larger led.

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grin
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I totally agree with enderman about the led.
Because you dont have a collar I would suggest getting a smaller lens this one works well and put it close enough to catch the light from the led and direct it to your primary lens. The jig allows me to find the sweet spot for a group of lens before I built the actual light. Collar is best even hand cut

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Grin,

I understand the primary+secondary lens strategy. My ADJ PinspotII stage light uses a 20mm half-round primary with a focal length of only a few mm, and a 50mm aspheric secondary with a focal length of about 100mm. So that type of setup is something I may test. I’ve also thought about combining a TIR with the 100mm Fasttech aspheric lens. Likewise, I’ve considered a buying an aluminum flashlight reflector, machining it a bit, and using that as a collar. But I can’t find one that is spherical in profile like the wavien. Everything I’ve seen is parabolic. And unfortunately, I don’t currently have the time or tooling to turn a spherical reflector in my own lathe.

I bought a few more parts for the flood-cooled heat sink yesterday, so that will be the next part of the project. I want to get the mcpcb mounted before I do anything else. I’ll post photos when there’s progress.

I’m also trying to get all of my outdoor home improvement projects finished ASAP. “Smoke season” just started. So far I haven’t had ash fallout like I did last year. But it’s still early in the season. And between that and all of the pollution the city of Denver creates, our air quality is currently nil.

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Woohoo! Finally on it’s way.

I didn’t realize the Fasttech website was trying to tell me the lens was back-ordered because the word they used was “Restocking?”. This is the first time I’ve ordered from them. Anyway, over the weekend the order status finally started to change. And this morning I’ve got a photo of the package. I’ve also got some crypto-tracking number that I hope will start meaning something later today. But, at least its on it’s way.

I haven’t made much progress on the heat sink. But last night I did wire a cord to the power supply and plug it in. 3.34vdc on the meter. That’s a good sign.

Stay tuned.

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Tonight’s project was to temporarily wire up the driver and led for a quick test. After connecting the driver to the power supply, I measured the output voltage at 3.31vdc. My meter caps out at 200mA, so I couldn’t measure the current output. But I have no reason to doubt that it wasn’t the driver’s rated 3.04 amps. This is a QLite 7135*8 set up for single-mode 100%.
Next, I set up the mcpcb in a “helping hands” fixture and donned my welding helmet. Good thing! When I touched the leads to the mcpcb I nearly arc-flashed myself! That little Osram is BRIGHT! I couldn’t really tell how bright due to the shade-14 lens in my helmet. But looked like a decent TIG arc. The other thing I noticed is how warm the mcpcb got with less than 1 second of runtime. Yesterday I thought maybe liquid cooling was overkill. Heh… not anymore!

The next step is to fabricate the heat sink. That will require some actual machining and bench work. So it’ll maybe happen this weekend?

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Dr scott Diabolical – Evil Genius wrote:
Tonight’s project was to temporarily wire up the driver and led for a quick test. After connecting the driver to the power supply, I measured the output voltage at 3.31vdc. My meter caps out at 200mA, so I couldn’t measure the current output. But I have no reason to doubt that it wasn’t the driver’s rated 3.04 amps. This is a QLite 7135*8 set up for single-mode 100%.
Next, I set up the mcpcb in a “helping hands” fixture and donned my welding helmet. Good thing! When I touched the leads to the mcpcb I nearly arc-flashed myself! That little Osram is BRIGHT! I couldn’t really tell how bright due to the shade-14 lens in my helmet. But looked like a decent TIG arc. The other thing I noticed is how warm the mcpcb got with less than 1 second of runtime. Yesterday I thought maybe liquid cooling was overkill. Heh… not anymore!

The next step is to fabricate the heat sink. That will require some actual machining and bench work. So it’ll maybe happen this weekend?


Ooooh this sounds promising! I haven’t worn my welding helmet in YEEEEARS. #14 is hella dark, I don’t think my electronic welding helmet goes up that high, so that little Osram must be bright as hell. When pics? Silly

I just like shining my lights into the dark out of pure enjoyment and awe.
We've come far technologically and it's crazy to imagine what the future holds.

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Neurotoxin wrote:
Ooooh this sounds promising! I haven’t worn my welding helmet in YEEEEARS. #14 is hella dark, I don’t think my electronic welding helmet goes up that high, so that little Osram must be bright as hell. When pics? Silly

Shade 14 is usually for stick welding. But I run my helmet really dark for TIG because it helps me see the puddle.

Pix maybe by Monday??? Depends on if I have the time and energy. This is my “fun” project. I’ve got three other projects that need to be done before it starts snowing again. And of course, I’m still waiting on that lens.

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Dr scott Diabolical – Evil Genius wrote:

Thanks for the advice. I’ve been following your work for a few years now. Remember the video where you said “maybe this will help someone in the future”? Well… here we are. I chose to start with the Osram due to cost. $15 for the mcpcb & driver from Mountain. Not much to loose if this project doesn’t work out. And the 1mm die size seemed to work well for you when coupled with the 100mm Fasttech lens. I don’t have the advantage of the Wavien, but the flat white does have pretty good performance. If everything goes awesomely well, then I’ll consider upgrading to a larger led.


Hahah I’m glad it’s been helping people out! Big Smile
Yeah, the white flat does have much better performance per dollar than the SBT, and if you kill it then it’s not a huge deal Silly
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None of the shipments that were scheduled to arrive today actually arrived. I didn’t expect the lens. But I ordered a bunch of 4-pin screw-together connectors (Ray Wu type) for the floodlights, and Amazon said they’d be here today. But their own tracking lists that shipment somewhere between Chicago-metro and Denver right now. Which means it’s in a trailer on a railroad flatbed car, and BNSF will roll through town with it in about 7 minutes. Then it’ll go to some cross-dock in Denver, sit around over the weekend, and I’ll actually get it next Tuesday. Oh the joy of logistics.

Soooo…. I had the itch to work tonight. And I made a thing that kinda looks like a liquid-cooled heat sink. Not my best work, but I think it’ll do for now. I’ve got a block of delrin (acetal) that I might use to machine a better holder for the mcpcb. But that will require that I mount the 4-jaw lathe chuck, and that itself takes a lot of work. So, we’ll see. Anyway, this piece of junk is loosely based on CNCman’s heat sink for his “Pot Lid” light. If I get ambitious (or bored) this weekend, I’ll solder everything and try it out.

Liquid travels up the center tube, flood-cools the pipe cap/mcpcb, then travels back down the pipe around the center tube, and finally exits through the long tube in the bottom:

Inside of the bottom cap:

Assembled:

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Good news!
China Post is (finally) reporting that my 100mm Fasttech aspheric lens arrived at LAX (Los Angeles, CA) yesterday! Still a few days to go, but at least it’s in the USA now.

Meanwhile, I’ve been practicing with my new solder station. So far, so good with 22ga wire. I’ve added cannon plugs to the new floodlights, and built a 12vdc “extension cord”. The next skill to master is soldering leads to surface pads. I’ve got a few dozen strip-leds that need leads, so I’ll be practicing on those first. If I’m going to screw up, I’d rather do it on one of them than my Osram or driver. I haven’t made any more progress on the liquid-cooled heat sink. But that’s because I need to go to town to find hoses for it. And I only go to town once a week.

Here are a few rgb-led floodlight beamshots to keep you entertained while we continue to wait on the Fasttech lens:


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Bad news:
I tested the pump that I salvaged from an old dishwasher… total fail. Due to its design, it would need to be mounted below the coolant tank because it cannot draw liquid. And even when it was primed, the head pressure was nil. So it would never pump coolant through all of tubing and passages in the heat sinks I’m planning to use. This must have been the dishwasher’s “drain pump” and not it’s “main pump”. Cuz’ it was a chump.

My next option will be to buy a fountain pump. I found one locally for under $30 that claims 300gph max, or a 6 ft static head. That should be enough to force the coolant through the system, i think. We shall see.

Good news:
The People’s Communist Tracking Service #17 is now reporting that my Fasttech lens is at the USPS sorting facility in Grand Junction, CO. That’s about a 1-day drive from here. So maybe the lens will be in Denver tonight??? My best guess it that it will be delivered about a week from now, since next Monday is a holiday for us. Oh well, at least it’s in the state!

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IT’S HERE!
(and it only took 38 days…)

Fasttech 100mm aspheric lens.

Gotta go get that submersible fountain pump now… time to make some evil.

Dr scott Diabolical - Evil Genius

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