【New Products】XTAR D20 1000 & D20B 1000 Dive Lights!

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xtarflashlight
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【New Products】XTAR D20 1000 & D20B 1000 Dive Lights!

TWO EXCITING NEW PRODUCTS

XTAR D20 and XTAR D20B dive light

• Easy to carry, only 10.6cm length, 52g net weight
• Maximum 1000 lumens, 4 hours runtime
• Rotary switch & temperature control
• Cree XP-L/V6 LED, color temperature 7000K, beam throw 103m
• Three lighting modes: High (1000lm) -Mid (590lm) -SOS (590lm)
• IPX8 Waterproof, serve 50m underwater
• Aluminum material, corrosion resistance, durability and reliability
• Reverse polarity protection

What do you think of them?

Edited by: xtarflashlight on 10/29/2020 - 06:49
sandanbob
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132’ (~40M) is considered the recreational SCUBA limit (depending on training, agency, etc.), so 50M gives a little bit of leeway. What’s the difference between the two? Once says a rotary switch, the other a ring-type switch, but they look the same.

What will be the pricing?

Bob

Lux-Perpetua
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Quote:
What do you think of them?
First of all, I like the design. Well done. Thumbs Up

Since there are no markings on the head for its switch ring I wonder if it's an "infinite switch" that can be turned in either direction over and over again and that will always cycle through OFF - HIGH - MID - SOS. The light's mode spacing could be better. 590lm and 1.000lm are too close together to the human eye's perception. I would rather use three modes (1.000lm, 350lm, 10lm) instead. What driver is being used here? 4 hours runtime will probably refer to a significantly lower mode after it stepped down. At what temperature threshold will these lights step down? This might be interesting to those who want to use these lights above the waterline. 7000K is really really coldwhite. It may be okay under water but usually coldwhite light has a negative backscatter effect in humid atmosphere, significantly reducing actual beam distance. Most people here like a CCT range between 4.000K and 5.700K.

0oklight
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I like the design a lot. I’d buy one for this reason alone. Waterproof rating is a bonus.

adam7027
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My comments on the design:

1. emitter choice

Based on this source:
https://forum.openrov.com/t/what-is-the-best-light-color/3453/5

An ideal diving flashlight:
- has very high CRI (every well represented part of the spectrum is important for collecting visual information, and under water, this is even more important)
- for close search (up to maximum 10 meters): has a rather warm looking CCT (3500-4000K), and rich in the red part of the spectrum
- for spotlight (far) search (up to 100m): has a neutral to cool looking CCT (5500-6000K), and if possible, doesn’t have noticeable cyan weakness (dip) in the spectrum

So I think, unspecified CRI + 7000K is not the best choice.

Based on the design, this light is intended to be a medium range searchlight, for which I recommend 5000K CCT Samsung LH351D LED. It is cheaper and better at the same time. Also do not bother with Cree XP-L2/XP-G3 LEDs, as they have horrible looking beam.

Also, as I see, this is not a really high power flashlight, so instead of LH351D, choose LH351C for a bit of additional throw. LH351C is stable at 9W (~2.7A), LH351D can do even 16W (~4.5A).

2. battery

Not mentioned in the specification, but I guess, this is a 18650 flashlight.

3. output levels

If only 2 constant output modes are considered, the lower choice could be at 40% instead of 59%.
Mode cycle could be better if this would be the order: OFF > MID > HIGH > SOS.

If the rotational switch could be manufactured to include one more position, I would add a LOW mode at 12% as well.

xtarflashlight
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Thanks for your supports. Smile Wink

xtarflashlight
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Thanks for your question. Yes, the only difference of D20/D20B 1000 is the switch. D20 1000 with ring-type magnetic switch, D20B 1000 with rotary switch. Smile You can view more via this video :

Tredd
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To go off what Adam7027 said, I’d kill for a dive light in the 3-4000k tint with a high cri emitter. For some reason there isn’t any dive light I could find with those two option (or one for that matter), only video recording lights (expensive with battery packs) . Personally, diving with a 7k tint strains my eyes when peering into nooks and holes, and especially strains during night dives. My previous dive light had a tint around 6-7k and I sold it for that reason. And it was unfortunate to peer into holes and only see the bluish tint from the light rather than all of the colors that would be visible with a warmer tint. If you guys make a light with high cri and 3-4k tint, it’d be something almost no other dive light has.

e1mer
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Harsh design review.

I am no expert, but I do love night dives.

1) the video shows that you turn and release the ring, consistent with a magnetic red switch. Not discreet settings.

2) this looks like a good deal for a secondary light, not a primary or photographic light.

3) a large percentage of male diver’s are red color blind like me. I personally don’t mind missing out on the 600nm spectrum in a light.

Elmer

e1mer
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Harsh design review.

I am no expert, but I do love night dives.

1) the video shows that you turn and release the ring, consistent with a magnetic red switch. Not discreet settings.

2) this looks like a good deal for a secondary light, not a primary or photographic light.

3) a large percentage of male diver’s are red color blind like me. I personally don’t mind missing out on the 600nm spectrum in a light.

4) the package contents specify an included single 16500 cell.

Elmer

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e1mer wrote:
………….

4) the package contents specify an included single 16500 cell.

Sorry, but my alarm was triggered by your typo.

What you have read is: a 18650 Battery.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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e1mer wrote:
Harsh design review.

3) a large percentage of male diver’s are red color blind like me.

This is also false, so I marked both your ridiculous posts as spam. I also noticed your other spam post in another thread you created, so I marked that as spam too. Go find some place else troll.

TimMc
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xtarflashlight wrote:
D20 1000 with ring-type magnetic switch, D20B 1000 with rotary switch. Smile

Neat design!

Is the D20 1000 slightly easier to use compared to the D20B 1000?

I’m slightly worried about the head of the light unscrewing while underwater with the D20B.

D20 1000 ring-type magnetic switch

D20B 1000 rotate head (“turning the light head”)

gcbryan
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Looks more like a back-up light.

Doesn’t need the blinking mode. Does need a low setting so high, medium, low. The beam needs to be a bit focused to punch though less than clear waters.

Boro
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gcbryan wrote:
Looks more like a back-up light.

Doesn’t need the blinking mode. Does need a low setting so high, medium, low. The beam needs to be a bit focused to punch though less than clear waters.

Yes, more of a throw beam works much better in more water turbidity conditions!!
On strobe, I use blinking to get the attention of other diver’s.
I’m on high or medium and more power the better.
Temp sensors are better than timed limits.
I find anything over 5000k useless (3500k best) for identifying life at reefs or camera/photo settings.