I have a D4v2 and KR4 16x E21A mule and see absolutely no tint shift. The only issue with those mules is the positioning of the emitter around the outer perimeter causes a whopping 20% output loss and narrows the beam. The positioning of the emitters at the center in the FF mule will resolve this huge issue. Also FF made the right decision to use white mcpcb unlike the KR4 mule with the red MCPCB. White is the most reflective and the color DOES make a difference in measured output.
With 21 emitter and the optimal configuration mentioned above, this should make a good amount more than the specified 5,000 lumens at startup, especially considering this uses 21700 instead of the 18650 in the 16x E21A mules.
If this can charge and be used at the same time, then it would make for the perfect table lamp. The E21A 9080’s light quality is better than any light bulb I’ve tested and I tested ALOT!!
I saw your post about the light loss previously and indeed here this is a much better design, but maybe that’s the reason you didn’t notice the tint shift ? since it’s cutting most the greener light.
For lightbulbs the best I’ve seen are Sunlike SOL basically perfect.
You are right. I took out the bezel and tested it again and there is indeed some tint shift at the very outer edges but fortunately they are outside of our peripheral vision, which is why I guess I never noticed it. However the tint shift is nothing as bad as Cree or Samsung LH351D emitters. You can always put a piece of DC-Fix or sand down the glass to diffuse the light.
Anyways, this is looking to be the best portable photography light on the market by far. I’ve been using the X80GTvn and KR4 E21A mule as my photography light but this looks to be miles better.
And since it’s gradual it’s less noticeable, still, personally I would put a diffuser.
By the way, with 2700+5700 (50mA) : CCT = 4012K (Duv -0.0075)
And it would be much lower with 2000+6500. So if Fireflies could offer tint mixing that would be great.
For this to work well for photography it will need some good heat sinking to maintain sustained brightness. Certainly it needs to sustain more than the LumeCube’s 650lm which is barely adequate for some use cases.
For this to work well for photography it will need some good heat sinking to maintain sustained brightness. Certainly it needs to sustain more than the LumeCube’s 650lm which is barely adequate for some use cases.
My guess is with a highly efficient 6A buck driver, and 21 emitters, this should be able to sustain over 1.5k lumens for a long time if you are holding the light (heat sinking), which should be more than adequate for indoor photography. Even my KR4 16x E21A mule is good enough for me to get enough shots for indoor space and I use it very often for work. This will should easily sustain twice the lumens.
Should try to get some 2000k because the E21A 2000K 9050 is very popular. It has the lowest blue wavelength of any LED emitter tested and it actually tests out to be 9080 despite the 9050 rating. It is the closest to candle light we’ve seen. Works well with Anduril flame mode.
I’d offer a frosted lens as an option (or default), E21As have terrible tint shift, even if it’s a smooth transition with a mule it’s still quite noticeable, and potentially problematic for photography.
I have a D4v2 and KR4 16x E21A mule and see absolutely no tint shift. The only issue with those mules is the positioning of the emitter around the outer perimeter causes a whopping 20% output loss and narrows the beam. The positioning of the emitters at the center in the FF mule will resolve this huge issue. Also FF made the right decision to use white mcpcb unlike the KR4 mule with the red MCPCB. White is the most reflective and the color DOES make a difference in measured output.
With 21 emitter and the optimal configuration mentioned above, this should make a good amount more than the specified 5,000 lumens at startup, especially considering this uses 21700 instead of the 18650 in the 16x E21A mules.
If this can charge and be used at the same time, then it would make for the perfect table lamp. The E21A 9080’s light quality is better than any light bulb I’ve tested and I tested ALOT!!
It is good to see your comments (especially because SKV89 confirmed, that I didn’t buy the KR4 mule was a right decision). I didn’t have enough experience with mule lights, but it seems, this FireFlies design is already very good, just needs a few refinements.
I’d also add an at least moderately frosted front lens. Maybe if it is too much frosted, forward throw distance will be reduced more.
For this to work well for photography it will need some good heat sinking to maintain sustained brightness. Certainly it needs to sustain more than the LumeCube’s 650lm which is barely adequate for some use cases.
Don’t get me started on the LumeCube. The Air especially is ridiculously bad. It has PWM, CRI measures only 80 and the maximum output drops from 200 lumens to 160 lumens only after 20 hours of continuous use all the while the color temperature rises from 6800K to 7500K. It’s 5800K only when new out of the box. I consider it a disposable toy, not a fill light for photo/videography.
I like warm white. I would get one with this LED and also one with E21A 2000K.
Somebody (maybe djozz, but I may be wrong about that) tried already on BLF the following:
Nichia has also E17A emitter family, and there are phosphor converted colors mostly:
a given combination of E17A Amber and E17A red could result in a very nice ~1450K overall CCT with still adequate R9 value.
I think, that would the way to go, if lowest possible CCT is pursued.
This would mean only a partial redesign by making the emitter solder pads a bit smaller, then readjust the distance between them).
Most of the flames I measured were ~2000K, not 1800K, candle, match, lighter…
Plus this Xnova cube has a positive duv and lower current capabilities as well as output, I don’t see much point in it.
Maybe there is some interesting mixes to make with E17A, but not amber+red, maybe several 2000K+1*red.
Yes, for Amber + Red E17A, the term “candle light” does not apply.
But aside from that, there should be something in between of candle light and red. The term “lava light” could be it – anything in the 1300K to 1500K range. I would definitely get one, once I see one properly designed and implemented.
That looks very interesting!
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
Interested in 2000K
Interested
You are right. I took out the bezel and tested it again and there is indeed some tint shift at the very outer edges but fortunately they are outside of our peripheral vision, which is why I guess I never noticed it. However the tint shift is nothing as bad as Cree or Samsung LH351D emitters. You can always put a piece of DC-Fix or sand down the glass to diffuse the light.
Anyways, this is looking to be the best portable photography light on the market by far. I’ve been using the X80GTvn and KR4 E21A mule as my photography light but this looks to be miles better.
I might have exaggerated a bit with the “terrible”
Here is a quick measurement :
E21A 5700K (50mA) :
0° 2784.7 Lux, CCT = 6398K (Duv -0.0026)
12.5° 2663.9 Lux, CCT = 6300K (Duv -0.0021)
25° 2016.4 Lux, CCT = 6105K (Duv -0.0010)
37.5° 1819.2 Lux, CCT = 5850K (Duv 0.0006)
45° 1593.0 Lux, CCT = 5710K (Duv 0.0016)
57.5° 1188.4 Lux, CCT = 5424K (Duv 0.0038)
70° 863.2 Lux, CCT = 5142K (Duv 0.0060)
80° 587.3 Lux, CCT = 5032K (Duv 0.0070)
XHP50.2 for what is probably among the worst out there :
0° CCT = 8061K (Duv -0.0065)
25° CCT = 7191K (Duv -0.0031)
45° CCT = 5690K (Duv 0.0076)
60° CCT = 4802K (Duv 0.0199)
75° CCT = 4713K (Duv 0.0208)
And since it’s gradual it’s less noticeable, still, personally I would put a diffuser.
By the way, with 2700+5700 (50mA) : CCT = 4012K (Duv -0.0075)
And it would be much lower with 2000+6500. So if Fireflies could offer tint mixing that would be great.
Interest
My Lights (Updated: Dec 1, 2020)
Intrested
Zee
Interested
For this to work well for photography it will need some good heat sinking to maintain sustained brightness. Certainly it needs to sustain more than the LumeCube’s 650lm which is barely adequate for some use cases.
Recent Reviews: Light Flashlight Painting Buying Guide 2020 // LumeCube 2.0 // Lumintop FW1A // Light Painting Paradise Lightpainter // KDLITKER E6 // Sofirn SP31V2.0 // Convoy S2+
Affiliate links: Neal's Gadgets
Instagram: @stephenk_lightart
Interested in 2000K and possibly 3000K.
Interested in 2000K and 3000K
My guess is with a highly efficient 6A buck driver, and 21 emitters, this should be able to sustain over 1.5k lumens for a long time if you are holding the light (heat sinking), which should be more than adequate for indoor photography. Even my KR4 16x E21A mule is good enough for me to get enough shots for indoor space and I use it very often for work. This will should easily sustain twice the lumens.
Definitely interested
Nice design. I’d likely purchase with 3000k emitters.
Sorry , i checked the stock, it is 2700k, NOT 2000K.
Official store:
www.ff-light.com
New fireflies flashlights to come
NOV-MU Nichia E21A
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/75049
E12R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74907
T9R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74550
T1R
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74939
I’d like to buy a 3000K or 2000K! (edit: 2700K?)
Tint mixing would be very cool as well. 2000K+6500K or 3000K+4500K look like good combinations.
Should try to get some 2000k because the E21A 2000K 9050 is very popular. It has the lowest blue wavelength of any LED emitter tested and it actually tests out to be 9080 despite the 9050 rating. It is the closest to candle light we’ve seen. Works well with Anduril flame mode.
It is good to see your comments (especially because SKV89 confirmed, that I didn’t buy the KR4 mule was a right decision). I didn’t have enough experience with mule lights, but it seems, this FireFlies design is already very good, just needs a few refinements.
I’d also add an at least moderately frosted front lens. Maybe if it is too much frosted, forward throw distance will be reduced more.
Don’t get me started on the LumeCube. The Air especially is ridiculously bad. It has PWM, CRI measures only 80 and the maximum output drops from 200 lumens to 160 lumens only after 20 hours of continuous use all the while the color temperature rises from 6800K to 7500K. It’s 5800K only when new out of the box. I consider it a disposable toy, not a fill light for photo/videography.
Could you offer this flashlight with Luminus Xnova Cube 1800K CRI90? This might be the best high CRI led under 2000K, and it is much cheaper than E21A.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68142
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Luminus-Devices/MP-1616-1103-18-90?...
I like warm white. I would get one with this LED and also one with E21A 2000K.
I’d also be interested in a 1800K 90CRI Luminous Cube model.
Somebody (maybe djozz, but I may be wrong about that) tried already on BLF the following:
Nichia has also E17A emitter family, and there are phosphor converted colors mostly:
a given combination of E17A Amber and E17A red could result in a very nice ~1450K overall CCT with still adequate R9 value.
I think, that would the way to go, if lowest possible CCT is pursued.
This would mean only a partial redesign by making the emitter solder pads a bit smaller, then readjust the distance between them).
That would be an interesting tint mix. Luminus Xnova Cube 1800K CRI90 is similar size to E17A, so it might work too.
Maukka did it: https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1491050#comment-1491050
Maybe I was a bit optimistic about R9, but still, it could be nice.
But Luminus Xnova Cube 1800K is clearly better in terms of CRI (https://budgetlightforum.com/node/68142).
So, either E21A 2000K or Xnova Cube 1800K for the candle light fans (including me).
Most of the flames I measured were ~2000K, not 1800K, candle, match, lighter…
Plus this Xnova cube has a positive duv and lower current capabilities as well as output, I don’t see much point in it.
Maybe there is some interesting mixes to make with E17A, but not amber+red, maybe several 2000K+1*red.
Yes, for Amber + Red E17A, the term “candle light” does not apply.
But aside from that, there should be something in between of candle light and red. The term “lava light” could be it – anything in the 1300K to 1500K range. I would definitely get one, once I see one properly designed and implemented.
Interested around 2000K or 3000K
Very much interested if this can supply sustainable high output.
What would be the time to production for this?
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Reserved
Post #12 ‘should be available next week’
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