Fireflies NOV-MU 21*Nichia E21A mule 1x21700 Flashlight --in stock

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SKV89
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thefreeman wrote:
Most of the flames I measured were ~2000K, not 1800K, candle, match, lighter…

Plus this Xnova cube has a positive duv and lower current capabilities as well as output, I don’t see much point in it.

Maybe there is some interesting mixes to make with E17A, but not amber+red, maybe several 2000K+1*red.

I remember someone measured a candle and it was close to 1800k. The flame from cigarette lighters is probably different from a candle as you can see more blue flame. I will measure a candle next time during my kids’ birthday.

Any warm light with positive duv is an absolute no. It will make things appear too yellow/orange. The E21A 2000k Ive tested is nice because it is just on or slightly below the BBL .

SKV89
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lightdecay wrote:
Could you offer this flashlight with Luminus Xnova Cube 1800K CRI90? This might be the best high CRI led under 2000K, and it is much cheaper than E21A.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/68142
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Luminus-Devices/MP-1616-1103-18-90?...

I like warm white. I would get one with this LED and also one with E21A 2000K.

If you look at Djozz’s measurements of the Luminus 1800K, the CRI and R9 is no match for the E21A 2000K. At the lower output levels, the E21A is 95CRI with R9 above 95 despite rated as 9050!!!

Also with the Luminus 1800k, you can see the DUV is a whopping +0.0042. At those warm temp, such a high DUV will render everything uncomfortably yellow. If there exist a below BBL bin, that would make this emitter more interesting but it still won’t have the candle like color rendering of the E21A.

SKV89
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maukka wrote:
stephenk wrote:
For this to work well for photography it will need some good heat sinking to maintain sustained brightness. Certainly it needs to sustain more than the LumeCube’s 650lm which is barely adequate for some use cases.

Don’t get me started on the LumeCube. The Air especially is ridiculously bad. It has PWM, CRI measures only 80 and the maximum output drops from 200 lumens to 160 lumens only after 20 hours of continuous use all the while the color temperature rises from 6800K to 7500K. It’s 5800K only when new out of the box. I consider it a disposable toy, not a fill light for photo/videography.

PWM is absolutely a no-no for a photography light. For this FF mule, it will not have PWM for the regulated levels so I will be switching over to this as my light for sure.

lightdecay
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Of course, E21A 2000K is superior in every way except it is not 1800K.

Luminus Xnova Cube 1800K CRI90 is better than other amber leds with 1700K or 1800K CCT. I would try a Lee Zircon 803 or a Lee Zircon 802 filter to decrease DUV.

thefreeman
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adam7027 wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
Most of the flames I measured were ~2000K, not 1800K, candle, match, lighter…

Plus this Xnova cube has a positive duv and lower current capabilities as well as output, I don’t see much point in it.

Maybe there is some interesting mixes to make with E17A, but not amber+red, maybe several 2000K+1*red.

Yes, for Amber + Red E17A, the term “candle light” does not apply.

But aside from that, there should be something in between of candle light and red. The term “lava light” could be it – anything in the 1300K to 1500K range. I would definitely get one, once I see one properly designed and implemented.

A bit off topic, but using official specs for red and osram color calculator :

2000+red : 1325K duv -0.0040
2×2000+red : 1505K duv -0.0040
3×2000+red : 1683K duv -0.0033

No idea about color rendition since I don’t have red spectral data.

So using Virence quad mcpdb you can mod yourself an ultra low CCT light (or ask him for a mod)

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0oklight wrote:
Nbabu wrote:
Very much interested if this can supply sustainable high output.

What would be the time to production for this?

Post #12 ‘should be available next week’

I’m quite the pillock…..

Awaiting the reviews!

“Trout are freshwater fish and have underwater weapons”

adam7027
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thefreeman wrote:
A bit off topic, but using official specs for red and osram color calculator :

2000+red : 1325K duv -0.0040
2×2000+red : 1505K duv -0.0040
3×2000+red : 1683K duv -0.0033

No idea about color rendition since I don’t have red spectral data.

So using Virence quad mcpdb you can mod yourself an ultra low CCT light (or ask him for a mod)

Well, I am not nearly as skilled, as I could safely make experiments with Virence MCPCBs, so I just hope, somebody other will Innocent

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FireFlies wrote:
ReManG wrote:
Now this looks interesting…

What color temperatures will be offered?

4500K — Mass production.

We have some samples in small quantity available, 2700K / 3000K / 4500k / 5700k

These look really interesting.
I would be interested in a 4500k or 5700k.

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

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Beamshots? These would be very flood lights right?

ReManG
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Any chance for tint mixing? 3000K on the 12 outside E21 and 4000K for the 9 center index or something similar?

Valynor
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d_t_a wrote:
Beamshots? These would be very flood lights right?

 

These lights will have no beam at all - just 180° of pure flood.

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interested in:)

EDC-Amutorch X9 XHP50 nw,Sofirn If-25A cw

Headlamp-Thrunite TH30 nw

tealeafs
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Interested as well. Will any updates be posted in this thread?

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FireFlies wrote:
ReManG wrote:
Now this looks interesting…

What color temperatures will be offered?

4500K — Mass production.

We have some samples in small quantity available, 2700K / 3000K / 4500k / 5700k


Are there any chances for 2000K?
lambshark9k
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Will it charge with a USB-C to USB-C cable or will it only work with a USB-A to USB-C cable. Also, will it have a tripod mount hole? Thanks!

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jp9mm wrote:
FireFlies wrote:
0oklight wrote:
Good design Fireflies, from info so far, I’d buy.

should be available next week

Is Fireflies custom programming Anduril for each of these lights?

I’m wondering about Anduril version as well Wink

ma tumba
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IMHO 21x optisolis would be a better idea for a mule.

my 6x mule is visibly better than an any e21a light I have tried

SKV89
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Not really, I have several Optisolis lights and I prefer the E21A tint much more than Optisolis. Optisolis is above or just on the BBL whereass E21A is just on or below the BBL. The DUV makes the most difference but ofcourse it is personal preference. Also the Optisolis is larger than E21A and much less output. E21A is a much better emitter for a high powered mule.

ma tumba
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SKV89 wrote:
Not really, I have several Optisolis lights and I prefer the E21A tint much more than Optisolis. Optisolis is above or just on the BBL whereass E21A is just on or below the BBL. The DUV makes the most difference but ofcourse it is personal preference. Also the Optisolis is larger than E21A and much less output. E21A is a much better emitter for a high powered mule.

re tint: this is certainly a matter of personal preference. I hate anything rosy and much prefer daylight tint, but this is just me.

re output: I have used my optisolis mule daily and from my experience, it can safely run @300ma, or 1W, or 100lm per led, with short pulses twice that much. So in real life, the output in such a small light would be limited by thermal (anduril is known for that), regardless of the LED type

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None of the E21A I’ve seen have been particularly rosy. They look very clean and neutral.

SKV89
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None of the E21A are super rosy like the Nichia sw45k. They are very neutral with no green at all. The 4500k E21A is the rosiest of the bunch I’ve seen but still no sw45k. Optisolis in comparison is more on the green side, but is closer to daylight. I prefer E21A tint much more than Optisolis. Also the Optisolis is much bigger and require a larger host but still much less output and efficiency. Though if you want to create a sunlight simulator, Optisolis would be the best option.

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With this light being aimed as a photography light – a neutral/close to BBL tint would be much more useful for the target audience than a rosy or green tint.

SKV89
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stephenk wrote:
With this light being aimed as a photography light – a neutral/close to BBL tint would be much more useful for the target audience than a rosy or green tint.

Like I said before, the E21A is on or slightly below the BBL whereas the Optisolis is on or slightly above the BBL. Both are much more neutral than the typical Cree and Samsung 90 CRI emitters and with superior color rendering
maukka
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stephenk wrote:
With this light being aimed as a photography light – a neutral/close to BBL tint would be much more useful for the target audience than a rosy or green tint.

Agreed, but on the other hand, photographer aren’t strangers to gels and filters to adjust the tint and color temperature of an auxiliary or fill light.

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plus, optisolis has zero tint shift across the entire beam. an e21a has plenty of it, beyond, say, 120deg it is totally green. it is much less of a problem than with popular domed leds, but as soon as you notice it, it is annoying.

SKV89
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ma tumba wrote:
plus, optisolis has zero tint shift across the entire beam. an e21a has plenty of it, beyond, say, 120deg it is totally green. it is much less of a problem than with popular domed leds, but as soon as you notice it, it is annoying.

Optisolis has much more tint shift than the E21A. I have to use dcfix to smooth it out when used with reflector.

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To add to my previous comment about tint shift, here is 2700K :

Bare e21a 2700K (50mA):

0°  2509.0 Lux, CCT = 2837K (Duv -0.0018)
12.5°  2433.6 Lux, CCT = 2825K (Duv -0.0016)
25° 2338.6 Lux, CCT = 2799K (Duv -0.0010)
37.5° 2138.2 Lux, CCT = 2766K (Duv -0.0001)
45°  1721.7 Lux, CCT = 2743K (Duv 0.0005)
57.5° 1280.8 Lux, CCT = 2706K (Duv 0.0013)
70°  801.9 Lux, CCT = 2659K (Duv 0.0022)
80°  404.0 Lux, CCT = 2645K (Duv 0.0026)

thefreeman wrote:

Bare E21A 5700K (50mA) :

0° 2784.7 Lux, CCT = 6398K (Duv -0.0026)
12.5° 2663.9 Lux, CCT = 6300K (Duv -0.0021)
25° 2016.4 Lux, CCT = 6105K (Duv -0.0010)
37.5° 1819.2 Lux, CCT = 5850K (Duv 0.0006)
45° 1593.0 Lux, CCT = 5710K (Duv 0.0016)
57.5° 1188.4 Lux, CCT = 5424K (Duv 0.0038)
70° 863.2 Lux, CCT = 5142K (Duv 0.0060)
80° 587.3 Lux, CCT = 5032K (Duv 0.0070)

So it is highly dependent on CCT, maybe it is also the case with optisolis ?

ma tumba
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SKV89 wrote:
ma tumba wrote:
plus, optisolis has zero tint shift across the entire beam. an e21a has plenty of it, beyond, say, 120deg it is totally green. it is much less of a problem than with popular domed leds, but as soon as you notice it, it is annoying.

Optisolis has much more tint shift than the E21A. I have to use dcfix to smooth it out when used with reflector.

Sure thing with a reflector it does, but here we are discussing the mule, and in a mule it has zero

ma tumba
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thefreeman wrote:
To add to my previous comment about tint shift, here is 2700K :

e21a 2700K :

0°  2509.0 Lux, CCT = 2837K (Duv -0.0018)
12.5°  2433.6 Lux, CCT = 2825K (Duv -0.0016)
25° 2338.6 Lux, CCT = 2799K (Duv -0.0010)
37.5° 2138.2 Lux, CCT = 2766K (Duv -0.0001)
45°  1721.7 Lux, CCT = 2743K (Duv 0.0005)
57.5° 1280.8 Lux, CCT = 2706K (Duv 0.0013)
70°  801.9 Lux, CCT = 2659K (Duv 0.0022)
80°  404.0 Lux, CCT = 2645K (Duv 0.0026)

thefreeman wrote:

E21A 5700K (50mA) :

0° 2784.7 Lux, CCT = 6398K (Duv -0.0026)
12.5° 2663.9 Lux, CCT = 6300K (Duv -0.0021)
25° 2016.4 Lux, CCT = 6105K (Duv -0.0010)
37.5° 1819.2 Lux, CCT = 5850K (Duv 0.0006)
45° 1593.0 Lux, CCT = 5710K (Duv 0.0016)
57.5° 1188.4 Lux, CCT = 5424K (Duv 0.0038)
70° 863.2 Lux, CCT = 5142K (Duv 0.0060)
80° 587.3 Lux, CCT = 5032K (Duv 0.0070)

So it is highly dependent on CCT, maybe it is also the case with optisolis ?

actually, in warm leds the tint shift is by far less unpleasant than with neutral and cold whites. I had a mule with a 3000k e21a and was very happy with the tint. With a 5000k e21a it was no go for me

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4500K please. Perfect!

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