✌ ASTROLUX EA01 SST40 (2300lm)/ XHP50.2 (3500lm) TIR 26650/ 26350 Flashlight Group Buy - ALIVE!

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pennzy
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I was seeing it last night with my 5700K outside against the house from about 40 feet too.

Artiet59
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I’m thinking about dedoming one of my xhp50 that is doing it, to see if it has any effect on the purple dot.

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

pennzy
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Artiet59 wrote:
I’m thinking about dedoming one of my xhp50 that is doing it, to see if it has any effect on the purple dot.

It will also lower the CCT which mine needs. A little blue looking.
Artiet59
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Yes, the 5700k in ea01 looks very similar to my 6500k in a couple other lights. I don’t know if it is the optic effecting the color?

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

Tartarus
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MT01 (SST40) arrived. It was so sharp, unfinished the bezel, that could the paper be cut with it. I had to grind with sandpaper. Sad Otherwise, I like the beam profile. Outside, it can be very useful for hiking and walking.

Unfortunately, I measured that consume 19x as much electricity on standby as EC01.

MT01/EA01 consumption is 1,68mA Does not change. It seems the microcontroller does not go to sleep.
EC01 and SC31 Pro consumption is just 0,09mA at intervals jumps up to 0,15mA.
Each with low-level button backlit.

What are you measured? Is that average?

Dioda
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I measured mine EA01 (SST40), on standby it consumes 0,09 mA.

Tartarus
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Dioda wrote:
I measured mine EA01 (SST40), on standby it consumes 0,09 mA.

Thanks for the reply! Sadly, mine is faulty Sad I tried to factory reset. It wasn’t better.

CR888
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Yup Freeme, could I have a coupon for this light please. Thanks

CR888

weklund
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Coupon code please.

... Happy Landings ...

freeme
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Sent.

1thedeals.comyoutubeAstroluxNealsgadgetsolight

Tom E
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pennzy wrote:
Artiet59 wrote:
I'm thinking about dedoming one of my xhp50 that is doing it, to see if it has any effect on the purple dot.
It will also lower the CCT which mine needs. A little blue looking.

Mine has the center purple dot too. It also has a yellow corona, then further out is bluish. Yea, it sux, and it's a CREE XHP.

I sliced a SST-40 in my EA01 and it came out terrible - big loss of lumens and barely 4% increase in kcd. I was so disappointed, I restored it back with a domed SST-40 5000K from Simon. 87 kcd with a nice big spot is not so bad, plus about 2000 lumens and decent tint, and wayyy better beam than the XHP50.2.

The slice looked pretty good - it could have been the LED, dunno. The wires and phosphor were not touched and it sliced pretty low.

Kos70
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Tom E wrote:

Mine has the center purple dot too. It also has a yellow corona, then further out is bluish. Yea, it sux, and it’s a CREE XHP.


These artifacts are clearly visible in the video https://budgetlightforum.com/node/76669 . Maybe XHP not very suitable for this optics …
Tom E
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Dunno if the XHP50.2 is well suited for any optics, maybe a heavy OP. I know it looks about as bad in a SMO reflector.

Artiet59
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Xhp50 in my smo reflector Astrolux’s looks pretty good. I have an xhp50 in one of my KR1’s it is looks great because the dome sits right inside the reflector opening. Maybe it’s this optic. I may still dedome the xhp in the ea01. I have had mixed feelings about dedoming sst40 because of the significance in lumen loss

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

pennzy
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DC Fix maybe? I hate to lose the throw. The xhp 50.2 EA01 driver would kill a SST40 right?

Artiet59
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Dc fix will definitely deteriorate the throw, at the least the version of dc fix I have. I have to believe that the drivers are the same for both versions of the light. I’m sure Tom could tell us, but I doubt they used two different drivers while trying to keep the price nice and low..

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

Tom E
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Yes, the same - XHP50.2 and SST-40. Didn't notice any difference - had both lights open this past weekend. SST-40 does about 9 amps on a good cell. Measured 9.2A on a 40T for the SST-40, 17.8A on a 40T for the XHP50.2.

Wow - thought I recalled the XHP50.2 in a FT03 SMO look'n bad but typical for XHP50.2's. Might be the tint - I use 5700K's.

Artiet59
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Thanks for the amperage readings. I have a cheap multimeter on the way so I can start doing those myself.

My ft03 with xhp50 looks good. I mean tint shift, I guess but that reflector in particular suites the led well. That is just a great light/emitter combo. One of my favorites still.

In my KR1 also tint shift, but not terrible. KR1 has a slight purple dot believe it or not, but ft03 does not. Both are 6500k. Just wierd.

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

Artiet59
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Come to think of it- my convoy s21b with 5000k xhp50 (I assume it’s 6v) has very bad tint shift, purple outside and green to yellow going in. Nice beam pattern but dc fix does wonders in that light. And that even has a OP reflector, but without dc fix it’s pretty bad.

I think what you said is actually the case, as the tint / color drops in xhp50 the beam color and appearance deteriorates.

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

Tom E
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You really need a clamp meter to measure amps, specially the high amps these lights do nowadays. I've had a UNI-T, think the UT210E model, the one commonly used here on BLF and had a group buy on way back. With the meter I use a 16 or 14 AWG wire to ground the batt- to the battery tube of the light with tailcap removed. If the tailcap springs are not ideal (no bypass), you'll get a bit higher reading then when the tailcap is screwed on. Another reason to add bypasses - always do better than dual springs as well.

pennzy
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Maybe a different optic to better blend the colors? Tonight I’m trying the DC Fix thing 2 ways. One with only the center covered and one completely covered . The center only doesn’t look to change things much concerning the hot spot but that is inside testing only. Any idea what TIR will fit?
Edit:
DC Fix leaving 1/8 inch ring around the perimeter uncovered seems a good compromise of blending without hurting throw much. Can still see a slight purple tint to the hot spot on a white wall but no green. Total coverage killed the throw too much but did produce a nice smooth beam outside.

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Tom E wrote:

You really need a clamp meter to measure amps, specially the high amps these lights do nowadays. I've had a UNI-T, think the UT210E model, the one commonly used here on BLF and had a group buy on way back. With the meter I use a 16 or 14 AWG wire to ground the batt- to the battery tube of the light with tailcap removed. If the tailcap springs are not ideal (no bypass), you'll get a bit higher reading then when the tailcap is screwed on. Another reason to add bypasses - always do better than dual springs as well.

 

Tom E, not sure if you're not receiving notifications, but I sent you multiple messages in the past 3 weeks about my calibration light, can you please reply?

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 Oops, yes - replied.


 

I posted about this stuff before with the Mateminco MT01, but same in the Astrolux EA01

Plumbers putty - dunno what for, I removed it all:

Hidden messages? Not sure it's a good idea but certainly out of sight for most:

All cleaned up, contact surfaces sanded smooth, MX-4 applied:

Got a little bump in output, didn't expect much: 17.8 amps on a 40T, 4810 (was 4540) lumens at start, 4381 at 15 secs (30 secs had thermal reg kick in), and 67.1 (was 65.2) kcd.

This is with the stock XHP50.2 3V 5700K, and used a bypass on the tailcap spring before and after.

pennzy
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Tom, could you tell me the TIR measurements please. I don’t know where to look but I would like to experiment with some different ones.

Artiet59
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Tom E wrote:

You really need a clamp meter to measure amps….


I don’t know what that is. I bought a multi meter that has two wires that look like they plug into the meter, then have alligator clips on the other end? Is a clamp meter the one that looks like a “C“clamp attached to the top of the meter itself?

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

Artiet59
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Also, yes I can see the traces now in mcpcbs, and by the looks of your pictures above, the traces are very specific for this one, and how they avoid all of the post holes and cutouts.,, still haven’t tried to drill post holes on a standard mcpcb, but I will report back with pictures when I do. I’m still thinking about putting a CULPM1 into one of these.

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

d_t_a
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Tom E wrote:

You really need a clamp meter to measure amps, specially the high amps these lights do nowadays. I've had a UNI-T, think the UT210E model, the one commonly used here on BLF and had a group buy on way back. With the meter I use a 16 or 14 AWG wire to ground the batt- to the battery tube of the light with tailcap removed. If the tailcap springs are not ideal (no bypass), you'll get a bit higher reading then when the tailcap is screwed on. Another reason to add bypasses - always do better than dual springs as well.

I also use a Uni-T UT210E clamp meter, from reading BLF posts. Smile

However, I don't have many wires lying around. I used to use a slimmer copper wire (I think around 8 inches), which is ok for measuring around 6 Amps, but 10-12 Amps, that piece of wire gets hot.

The "thin copper wire" shown in the following:

 

I then 'upgraded' to a bit thicker copper wire (which is what I now use for measuring, about 6 inches long maybe), this works ok for measuring around 15 Amps or so, but higher than about 20 Amps, that piece of wire gets hot. Probably means I'm not using an adequate sized wire.

The "thicker wire" shown here:

 

I'm not sure what's the gauge of the wires I'm using though... What size can work for measuring more than 20+ Amps without the wire getting quite hot?

Tom E
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Can't check now, but I use 14 or 16 AWG, think it's 16 AWG:

As you can see, the clamp meter can work as a regular multi-meter, measuring not just amps, but voltage and resistance. I've measured up to about 30 amps. The meter comes with the black and red leads.

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My EA01 killed a good Liitokala 5000mAh. It was sitting with the battery and the switch-leds on for I assume more than a month unattended and now the Liitokala reads 0 V. I’m not trying to recover that.

It appears that the light in standby consumes 5.7 mA (still after a few minutes), which is IMO too much for those two blue leds and in any case 50 times the by Astrolux claimed 0.1 mA.

So another light that always needs mechanical lockout, and I’m not good in consistently doing that Sad

Tom E
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Think someone mentioned this earlier? I recall reading it somewhere and struck me odd. Ugh - makes you wonder about the how and who configured Anduril for this light. Anduril doesn't do that high standby drain so suspect it's been altered. Also the driver design of the 7135 on pin#3 and FET on pin#5 is an odd one, and pretty sure wasn't supported with any TK config files.

My blue EA01 XHP50.2 and MT01 SST-40 are now running Anduril 2. I'll check the standby draw but pretty sure it's fine.

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