✌ ASTROLUX EA01 SST40 (2300lm)/ XHP50.2 (3500lm) TIR 26650/ 26350 Flashlight Group Buy - ALIVE!

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pennzy
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I don’t have a clamp meter yet. Are DMM readings worthless for these small numbers? I found the UT210 E for $39. Recommended?

Tom E
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pennzy wrote:
I don't have a clamp meter yet. Are DMM readings worthless for these small numbers? I found the UT210 E for $39. Recommended?

Ok, I'm a bit confused. By small #'s, guess you mean the standby drain? I haven't tried my UT210E on measuring standby drain - I use another meter (another UNI-T model actually), but not sure if the UT210E can do it or not. $39 sounds like a good price - typically it's $50. Can't recall what our group buy price was on it, think about $40.

 I know one guy complained the UT210E was crap, and would die on him after a couple months - more than once. For me, I've had mine for years (~4??) and no problems.

pennzy
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Yeah, I want to measure standby current in the EA01 since some seem to drain batteries but all I have is a DMM. It reads 1.2 ma.

Edit: I checked all my other e switch lights and none are in the ma range of parasitic drain. I would consider 1.2 ma high based on that. My only question, shouldn’t I see 2 different values when measuring drain? A higher value and a sleep value? I’m only seeing one steady 1.2 ma drain.

Artiet59
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Got my multi meter today! No idea how to even plug the wires in the right spot! Looks like to YouTube I go.. Matt smith has a video I think about it..

Which made me think…

Tom E- you should start a YouTube channel. I’d be your first Patron (patreon? the app support thing) I personally think your a top valued member here, and I greedily want you to make videos on YouTube to show us how to learn things lol. (Ok, I’ll stop a** kissing). But really, you should. You know, with all the free time you probably don’t have.

Tom E
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smile kiss

pennzy
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Who else rips open their perfectly working brand new flashlights for testing? I second it.

Tom E
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Interesting - I found my post of when I got the UT210E and it was in Jan 2016!  https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/879544#comment-879544

Over 5 years and still works and looks like new. HKJ review here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/56198

 

 

pennzy
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Tom E wrote:

Interesting – I found my post of when I got the UT210E and it was in Jan 2016!  https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/879544#comment-879544


Over 5 years and still works and looks like new. HKJ review here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/56198


 


 


That’s good to hear. For some reason I thought the clamp method was preferred to using test leads of a multimeter for measuring parasitic drain.
Artiet59
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Nice! Thanks Tom! I’ll check it out. Once I learn about mine.

Tom E
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From the review and specs I read, the clamp meters at these costs can't do low amps. I use a UT139C for standby drain measurement and it works great. I measure under 10 mA. Actually just did a whole bunch of standby drain measurements:

My regular DMM meters:

I use the UT139C for low amp measurements, non-stock probes with fine points:

Here's the "small" subset of lights I tested:

Just fyi, my lumens measurement setup, with a couple of jumper wires I'll use on occasion and different size foam cutouts:

 

The bottom line is there's got to be something wrong with the EA01/MT01's driver. With no switch LED's on, those #'s are way too high.

20-40 uA should be about right. Didn't note it but the E3S is a custom FET+1 driver running Anduril2. The MT01's charging seems to work but the EA01 I got doesn't seem to charge. I measure it's drawing ~0.5 amps, but the cell doesn't seem to gain voltage even after hours.

The EA01 and MT01 seem like they have a bleed resistor somewhere. I suspect the charging circuitry because the main MCU circuitry looked pretty normal. I didn't get good clear pics of the driver because I left the wires connected. The EC01 and EC03 tested pretty good. 

 

Ohhh - it's a 14 AWG wire I use with the UT210E, and you do have to hold it tight to the battery tube edge and batt- contact for those high amp readings.

pennzy
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Thanks for your testing. Do you think Banggood would consider high parasitic drain a defect worthy of a replacement or not?

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Nope, no way. Can't even talk to anyone there who would have a slight inkling of understanding what we are talk'n about.

I'd hope there would be a better chance of them listening to freeme, and freem may have better contacts, but dunno if freeme is following this. Past experience of mine says nothing will happen - it's probably not a big enough issue. Things like the MF01 Mini plastic heat sync ended up getting fixed in future batches but I don't think anything was done for early buyers.

djozz's measured 5.7 mA which is way higher than my worse (the MT01), but my 2 pieces were also different from each other - weird it's so inconsistent.

Hhhmmm - I do have more mods to do on my blue EA01 - want to changed the blue switch LED's to another color, and change the switch LED resistor on the driver. If I get to that, I can better review the driver board and maybe find the "leak". Suspect though it's in the charging circuitry - might eliminate it and see if the leak goes away - those built-in charging circuits are usually poor quality. Think Hank's K1's though are pretty darn good.

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pennzy wrote:
Thanks for your testing. Do you think Banggood would consider high parasitic drain a defect worthy of a replacement or not?

Cheaper than repairing the defect is lie about it on their website Flat Stare , but maybe some day?
Tom E
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Last night left work late and the parking lot lights were out. We are out in the sticks here, at the fringes of the burbs, so it was pretty dark. My car was the only one left in the lot, far away, and couldn't even see it. I first tried the EDC18 in my pocket which is great for close range but useless to spot my car. So broke out the MT01 SST-40 and lit it up like daylight. It's quite impressive with a nice big spot and having a good working distance, and this was just on hi at top of the ramp, not turbo. It stayed cool enough the entire walk to the car. These are great lights for the money, but still room for improvements. Seems like the parasitic drain problem is specific to this EA01 model, and not rampant in Matemincos with my spot checking of what I got.

The list of issues I see/know of are:

  • excessive parasitic drain of various degree, varied unit by unit
  • sharp edges on the SS bezel, some worse than others
  • weird writing on the back of the copper MCPCB - why? Doesn't seem like a good idea on such a critical temp junction
  • where's the Anduril source code being used on this light? It should be publicly posted/accessible. Please!
  • still QC/QA issues piece by piece - are basic tests done on each light before shipped?

Overall not so bad, not great.

freeme
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Yes, i have been following since first reported case.I will remind BG again this week.

Tom E wrote:

Nope, no way. Can't even talk to anyone there who would have a slight inkling of understanding what we are talk'n about.

I'd hope there would be a better chance of them listening to freeme, and freem may have better contacts, but dunno if freeme is following this. Past experience of mine says nothing will happen - it's probably not a big enough issue. Things like the MF01 Mini plastic heat sync ended up getting fixed in future batches but I don't think anything was done for early buyers.

djozz's measured 5.7 mA which is way higher than my worse (the MT01), but my 2 pieces were also different from each other - weird it's so inconsistent.

Hhhmmm - I do have more mods to do on my blue EA01 - want to changed the blue switch LED's to another color, and change the switch LED resistor on the driver. If I get to that, I can better review the driver board and maybe find the "leak". Suspect though it's in the charging circuitry - might eliminate it and see if the leak goes away - those built-in charging circuits are usually poor quality. Think Hank's K1's though are pretty darn good.

pennzy
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Everyone who has purchased the EA01 should check their standby current at the tail to see how wide spread this problem is. At least lock them out every time to be safe.

Tom E
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Thanks freeme! wink

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pennzy wrote:
Thanks for your testing. Do you think Banggood would consider high parasitic drain a defect worthy of a replacement or not?

You are kidding right?

The most they would do is give you a $5 credit towards your next order.

freeme
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It is not easy but still possible.

zoulas wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Thanks for your testing. Do you think Banggood would consider high parasitic drain a defect worthy of a replacement or not?
You are kidding right? The most they would do is give you a $5 credit towards your next order.
pennzy
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Thanks freeme. Hope they listen.

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pennzy wrote:
Everyone who has purchased the EA01 should check their standby current at the tail to see how wide spread this problem is. At least lock them out every time to be safe.

So you touch one lead to the battery tube and the other to battery – ? While light is off with lighted switch on low? Or lighted switch off? I’ll test mine if it is possible with my cheapy Amazon MM…
pennzy
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Yes, that’s right. The red probe needs to be plugged into the A mA socket to measure milliamps and the dial should be set to A mA also. You could try the micro amp setting (uA) but it probably will show OL unless you are lucky and got a low drain EA01.

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code please

pennzy
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Artiet59 wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Everyone who has purchased the EA01 should check their standby current at the tail to see how wide spread this problem is. At least lock them out every time to be safe.
So you touch one lead to the battery tube and the other to battery – ? While light is off with lighted switch on low? Or lighted switch off? I’ll test mine if it is possible with my cheapy Amazon MM…

What reading did you get?

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Sorry I’m not able to try it tonight. I will do by tomorrow though.

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Found the leaky part. Removed a 3 legged IC, maybe a LDO, as part of the charging circuit and on the bench, the standby drain went down from 250 uA to 32 uA. This was on the EA01 that read 640 uA on standby with switch LED's off. It's probably the only cause but won't know for sure until it's fully assembled again, repeating the setup for the 640 uA reading. It was the only resistor outside of the standard LED driver circuitry I could find connected to ground (i.e. Batt -).

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Thanks for troubleshooting Tom.

It bugs me enormously, I’m a great fan of USB-C charging within a light so I do not want to disable that. But with the casual way I handle flashlights (and so it should be, one should not have to think when using a flashlight) this light will continue to kill a battery every now and then.

And with 5mA parasitic drain (with or without the switch light on) I got the worst from the lot.

Sad
Tom E
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Showing the part removed:

Haven't been able to get a good pic of it with the #'s:

 Checked two caps in the driver circuit and one is 40 uF (C1) and other is 5 uF (C2). Our usual FET+1 design originated by DEL is to use a 10 uF primary (C1) of Batt+ to GND after the R5 4.7 ohm resistor, and an optional C2 of 0.1 uF between the V+ and V+ of the MCU. I'll have to re-check this - might be inaccurate to measure caps inline. Also know DEL wasn't too tight on specs for the cap values so these might be ok to use.

pennzy
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This was the light that didn’t charge if I remember correctly. Do you plan to replace the part and how would removal affect a working charge circuit?

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Yes - this one didn't work for me. I don't have the know-how to redesign the charging circuitry, so only option for me is to remove/disable it. Would be great if the 3 pin part could simply be replaced with a non-leaky one, but usually it's not that easy.

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