$10 or Less keychain AAA

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Cemoi
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@jon_slider: thanks for the explanation, I really did not expect that silicone could be harmful to... silicone frown

So I put one of the same silicone spare O-rings provided by Skilhunt, and since I don't have any of the "very good lubes" recommended in CPF's thread, I used some "Tri-Flon" spray, a synthesized lubricant with Teflon. Now the switching is very smooth, although when I leave the light unattended for a while the first operation is a bit harder, then becomes smoother after a couple of on-off. I'll live with that, especially as I consider it a good security against accidental activation.

roostre wrote:
I prefer twisty lights that are difficult to twist so they stay together as one unit and compared to other twistys I own, the E3A has more turns of thread engagement which also helps with this and the precision tight-fitting threads between the head and body allows the E3A to be "turned off" and be "completely locked out from turning on unexpectedly" (due to bending or axial forces at the head / body junction) after less than a quarter of a rotational turn from the "on position" which is less and better than any other twisty I own.

I do agree: with 1/4 turn from ON the head is securely OFF, and still 1/2 turn away from the O-ring starting to appear.

I wish I could find a solution for the extremely wobbly head of my Astrolux M01, which makes it impossible to leave on a keychain (I've found it to be accidentally ON several times in my pocket). The "Teflon strip + thick grease" suggested in this thread turned out not to work on the long term: they do eventually interfere with the electrical contact between the body and head and makes turning the light on to Low and even more High a hit-and-miss operation. None of the thicker O-rings I have do fit, and even if I find the correct diameter/thickness combination (which would require ordering several 20 piece sets to try and find the optimal one) I'm afraid the head would still be wobbly because there is so much play in the threads. Maybe very thick conductive grease, if this does exist?

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

jon_slider
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glad the teflon spray lube is working to make the light smoother to twist

I also find some of my twisties stick when first twisted, its part of what moved me to clickies instead of twisties

> Maybe very thick … grease

nyogel 767a is very dense and sticky, you might like it in the threads, to fill gaps and resist rotation

I dont think it needs to be conductive, as long as the end of the body tube, and the contact ring on the pill, are kept wiped clean, no excess lube.

What I use in the threads can be thicker than what I use on the O ring itself.

I would still use a thin lube on the O ring, such as Nyogel 760, or Nano Oil.

I get Nyogel from oveready.com and I get Nano Oil from darksucks.

I have two lubes with teflon, I do not like them. They tend to stick and make it difficult to turn the threads. It seems they are designed to coat metal surfaces, rather than lubricate them..

I have Krytox 205, highly NOT recommended. It dries to a white powder, and sticks terribly to O rings, making it feel like the light will tear the Oring when turning the threads.. bad bad bad,

I also have TefGel that I find much too sticky, both in threads and on O rings, so also not recommended..

one of the very best lubes I have found is the darksucks Munky Spunk. It is a thin grease, works equally well on both threads and O rings.

Cemoi
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Thanks jon_slider for the lubes recommendations.

jon_slider wrote:
I dont think it needs to be conductive, as long as the end of the body tube, and the contact ring on the pill, are kept wiped clean, no excess lube.
In my Astrolux the negative contact is through the threads. In order to significantly reduce the wobbling, I will need a thick layer of thick grease, which may prevent a good electrical conduction.

From the CPF comprehensive thread you mentioned, NO-OX-ID seems to be a good option.
But unfortunately the shipping fees to France are a total deterrent:

litchfieldstation.com sells the 2oz. can for less than $2, but charges at least $24.50 to ship it to France
On ebay, even the tiny 7gram tubes which costs only $2 imply a minimum $19 shipping fee

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

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Cemoi wrote:
In my Astrolux the negative contact is through the threads.

then I think you should focus on finding an O ring that provides adequate pressure..

most lights have wobbly threads, it is really the O ring that stabilizes the head

O rings wear down, and then we experience “loose threads”, that were there all along.

Cemoi
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jon_slider wrote:
I think you should focus on finding an O ring that provides adequate pressure

I've followed your advice, and replaced the O-ring with a slightly thicker one: 7.5mm outer diameter, 1mm thickness. This appears to be the perfect size: the head can still screw in over the O-ring, and the head is far less wobbly.

My Astrolux and I both say Thanks!

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

Cemoi
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samyy wrote:
"Here":https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1536130852.html?spm=2114.12010612.814835... is a lens with smooth surface. "Here":https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1539156477.html?spm=2114.12010612.814835... with frosted surface.

Following your recommendations, I have bought a variety of versions and angles, here are the results:

Smooth lenses:

  • 20°: strong color shift
  • 45°: OK but strange beam shape, slightly squared
  • 90°: very visible central dark spot

Frosted lenses (they call them "Shamian"):

  • 20°, 30° and 60°: all OK, no color shift, very smooth transition between central area and spill. I'll probably stick to 20 or 30 degrees, not much difference between both anyway.
  • 90°: central area is darker and more purple.

In conclusion, if you like smooth beams without significant color shift, do your E3A a favor by replacing its pebbled lens with a 30° Shamian one, or 60° if you like a more "wall of light" beam.

Thanks samyy for the good suggestion.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

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