As promised; here are some better shots chronicling Foy's journey of chemical discovery, heat in the kitchen and the centrifugal learning curve of rouge.
First up is my E1320 blessed, 5-mode/no-blinky F-15:
Observations: The center tube and bezel changed color slower than the tail cap and head. Probably should bake/broil those two pieces a little longer. It is interesting that the white lettering remains unchanged and every flaw and chip also remains in all their glory. Also; I guess I understood the instructions incorrectly because I had to bake this guy at 500 degrees for nearly four hours. As I type, I've had an L2i in the broiler now for over three hours with no noticeable effect. The experience has shown rather conclusively that Solarforce "HA II" ano is far superior to whatever process this F-15 received.
Conclusion:Foyapproved
Next, a formerly black L2P masquerading as stainless steel. He doesn't quite pull it off but the gleaming results are nonetheless, spectacular . . .
Observations: Probably the most rewarding flashlight modding experience I've undertaken. I chose to use the A001 head because, like the rest of this torch, the finish was well worn and chipped. The process involved three or four hours (can't remember exactly) soaking in Greased Lightining and a buffing wheel using rouge. During the latter, Foy pushed too hard on the spinning wheel and the assembled L2P (parts should be buffed individually) shot toward the heavens about five feet above Foy (6'4") landing on the edge of a (formerly) perfectly polished, brand new Foybezel. Also; removing all the rouge from the knurl exceeded available patience.
Conclusion:Foyapproved +1
Finally; my much loved L2T endured the glorifying indignity of being stripped naked by the same Geased Lightining process/buff wheel/rouge . . .
Observations: I'm pleased with the results but I must confess that I do miss my buff-black L2T. This ChicagoX influenced endeavor was co-inspired by the availability of an unattractive Stainless Steel L2T. I thought what was needed was a simple shining up, sans diamond-block ugly affectations. I feel the goal of a better looking L2T than the SS version was met but I am less thrilled with it than I am the L2P. The smooth surfaces on the tube pick up minute scratches from the skin on your fingers and rubbing a cloth (or shirt-tail) on it only makes it worse. Otherwise, like the L2P, it is more scratch resistant that I had expected. Also like the L2P, I could not get all the rouge from the knurl.
Really great looking. What a difference a buffer makes.
Foy, try out a butane or propane torch. The time needed to turn the ano is much less and (toanextent) you can control the color. It's really much easier and more fun than watching an oven! I use a small concrete stepping stone to set the parts on. The stone doesn't absorb heat, so the parts retain all of it.
Just a heads-up, bare aluminum will oxidize to a dull gray patina in a matter of months.
Just take a look at most any pontoon boat. Even when you polish your 'toons, they oxidize again rather quickly. However, they make some stuff called Sharkhide that you can buy on the Internet, that puts a clear coating over the aluminum, and it will keep the oxidation process at bay for several years. I had a triple-pontoon boat that I had 60 hours of buffing invested in, and Sharkhide kept it looking shiny for a couple years.
An orange L2T . . . hmmmm. I must say; one of the things I liked about the L2T is the finish. Thinking about getting another and . . . leaving it alone. I have no regrets but, a buff L2T is one damn fine looking torch. Wasn't as big a deal with the L2P since I have several and the new naked and shiny is a great addition.
My plans are, believe it or not . . . I think a barenekked M6 would be painfully good looking.
From what I have read "Type II" will change colour, most anodizing I understand is type II.
HA III isn't supposed to change colour. (L2P is supposed to be HA III)
I read a fair bit in to this on other forums a while ago, for best even colour results you leave the flashlight assembled so the heat is even throughout the whole thing as smaller parts will change colour faster than heavier/thicker/larger parts but if its all screwed together it acts as 1 piece when heating.
I'd like to give it a go but I don't have a oven. I'd like to see others trying as well and posting results as well though.
Don't worry. I won't cook it (L2T) I agree it has one of the best finishes I have seen and it would be a shame to ruin it. Though if I had more than one I would probably do it. I always had an "issue" with fire lighting as a child. I still like to light fires and burn things now.
I've roasted an L2i (supposed to be HA II) for 3-4 hours @ 500 degrees and today, 4 hours in the broiler and it is still a nice shiny black. The lights that seem to change readily are Ultra/Trustwhatever with their home/garage ano job. Solarforce ano (even their inexpensive lights) is superior.
After reading the original post I threw the head and body of my cut-down mini-mag in the oven to see what would happen. After all, it's a mule to test out some of the things I've been reading here.
1.5 hours at 500 degrees and I ran out of time, after it cooled I find I kind of like it! I was just messing around so I didn't bother with the tailcap or bezel. The cut off part of the body didn't go in the oven, in the picture for comparison.
I have four more mini mags I plan on cutting down soon, blue, red, shimmer and silver, I think I'll throw the cut off portions in the oven to see how they look.
Oh, and one more thing. In my rush to put something in the oven I forgot to remove the O ring from the body, didn't realize it until I pulled it out of the oven. After it cooled I rolled it off, lubed it up and put it back...good as new!
I use a small concrete stepping stone to set the parts on. The stone doesn't absorb heat, so the parts retain all of it.
