I bought a Manker E03H one year ago, hoping it would meet the following requirements:
L-shaped light which can be used either as a standalone flashlight, or as a headlamp
Runs on primary lithium AA, i.e. the chemistry that best stands the heat when left permanently in a car
Magnetic tail so it can stick to most parts of a car (e.g. to change a wheel or put snow chains on).
Although I found the light to be OK (except the tiny switch, difficult to operate, and almost impossible with gloves on), I don't like the UI: short press for moonlight, long press for the last mode used (how can I remember the last used mode when I use the light only occasionally?), long press for OFF. This is about the opposite to the ZL UI, which I used to find the most user-friendly once learned, until I recently discovered Anduril.
I'm afraid the suggestions in this thread are 18650 lights which can't use primary lithium batteries. Moreover, I'd like something a bit more compact than a 18650 light.
Any suggestion for AA or CR123 headlamps or L-shaped lights, with magnetic base and no mode memory?
They changed the UI with the version II of the E02/E03, it’s closer to the ZL UI although not identical, there is memory for sub levels inside a main level just like ZL but cycling within a main level is done by long press instead of double click. Short clic from off always go to the medium main level, short clic from on to turn off (ouf !)
I received one of these about a month ago. The new UI is great. The tint is great. Very nice light that I seem to have in my pocket all the time now. I never had the original so not sure what other changes were made.
If the light functions and will serve the emergency needs in the car then I think you should keep your least favorite light assigned to those duties of being stuck in the car and hoping you don’t need it. But I don’t mess with anything less than an 18650. And the car needs two lights not one. One should function as a headlight and the other should have a little more throw.
But the UI description on Manker website says: "Memory function stores the general mode last used (Medium or High)" so it still has automatic memory and you don't know in advance if it will turn on on Medium or High. Nevertheless this is not such a major issue as having a light that will turn on on High when you wake up at night, or turn on on ML when you need instant High. At least with this new UI you have instant access to Eco (adjusted to you liking), Medium-High (automatic memory) and Turbo. And simple click to Off, much better.
I notice the new version is much lighter (36g vs 53g without battery), good point.
The switch is still tiny although it is now a metal one instead of a rubber boot: easier to operate with gloves?
Also, are the diffusers easier to slide up and down? Those on my E03H are very difficult to move.
I see on Manker's page, and on some of the AE sellers, that it is available in several body colors including red, but no such image on either websites. If anyone has a red version, how bright a red is it?
Interesting paper, but it doesn't deal with how well the different chemistries stand the heat, which can be very high in a car left in sunshine. I inquired on this topic on CPF before buying my E03H, and the reply was "definitely primary lithium".
I'll have to decide between this one, and the ZL H53Fc before they stop selling to non-US customers. My only regret about the ZL is the lack of a magnetic tail, which can be most useful in a car.
> I inquired on this topic on CPF before buying my E03H, and the reply was “definitely primary lithium”.
yes, but they offered no actual evidence, link, or comparison
I have been using eneloop in my car for several years. I have a light on the dash, held by a magnetic cell phone holder.
The light itself does not have a magnet on it.
I also like to have a separate magnet that I can put on the body of the car, and then put the light on the magnet. It gives me more options to aim a light. The following pics for illustration, are on my fridge:
notice the material of the body of the flashlight is non magnetic. It turns out eneloop are attracted to the magnet, through the body. It can also works to use the pocket clip as the contact point for a magnet.
Re. Li-ion and heat, Table 3 of How to prolong lithium based batteries clearly shows how the longevity of Li-ion batteries is adversely affected by heat.
As regards primary Li, the Energizer L91 data sheet says "Storage temp: -40°C to 60°C (-40°F to 140°F)", but this doesn't say how their "20 years at 21°C" shelf life is affected by temperature.
The primary Alkalines are less tolerant to cold, and only marginally less tolerant to heat according to the Energizer classi LR6 data sheet: "Operating temp: "-18°C to 55°C" (they don't mention storage temp).
The Energizer rechargeable Ni-MH batteries storage temperature range is way more limited as regards heat: "-20°C to 30°C". I don't know if this specific model is LSD though.
Re. Eneloop, the Eneloop Pro datasheet says "Ambient temp: Less than 90 days: -20°C to 40°C / Less than one year: -20°C to 30°C", which sounds about the same as the Energizer specs. This is also confirmed by the footnote on page 37 of the Eneloop catalogue.
Therefore by comparing the specified storage temperatures, I am prone to concluding that primary Li stand the heat well better than both Alkaline and NiMH.
As regards temperatures in a car, this 2011 study which compared temperatures in cool-colored vs dark-colored cars, shows that the temperature in a silver car can raise up to about 60°C, vs 80°C in a black car. Off topic: this is why I always buy white cars: less heat means more confort and lower use of the A/C (and therefore lower fuel consumption).
You are trying to compare apples to cherries and plums. All batteries are going to “suffer,degrade,lose capacity,cycle life” when exposed to –0°/ 60° c for short periods or long periods. I’ve looked at all of the storage temperature ranges in the past. The bunny doesn’t accept an 18650. If it did, that’s what they would recommend.
Armytek did verify for me that the Wizard (specifically, my wizard pro nw xhp50) can run 2xCR123 as well as the original 18650. Additionally, the Sportac PH10LC2 is a pretty nice headlamp that runs 1x18650/2xCR123. I have the Nichia version and while its less floody than I like for a headlamp it is overall very nice. The headband is basic, but functional. Handles well as a 90 degree hand light, too.
I have a Skilhunt H03 powered by two CR123A in my car. That battery combination is specified in the user guide. I didn’t mention it earlier because the UI doesn’t meet the OP’s requirements. The alternative interface in the H04 would be better.
If you`re going to use Cr123 primaries in series then make absolutely sure they are matched cells and check them regularly using a good battery load tester
BATTERY WARNING: The QUARK QK16L MKIII will accept 2xCR123 or 2xRCR123 batteries. However, we STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST THEIR USE. Catastrophic failure can occur when one of the two cells is not functioning correctly, causing thermal runaway in the other cell. There is a significant risk of fire and/or explosion when using two cells.
Thanks samyy, buck91 and brewster for your suggestions, and Katherine Alicia for your warning.
I checked the Skilhunt headlamps. I already have a tiny AAA E03A and was impressed by its excellent quality/price ratio. But if a side switch is OK when you wear the light on its headband, it is not the most convenient location when the light is used as a L-shaped handheld light, which will be my most frequent configuration.
Re. the Sportac: very nice light indeed, but in the meantime I had ordered a Zebralight, on the very last day (Dec 31) when they still accepted non-US orders. But still waiting for it, the tracking said on Jan 11 "your shipment left its country of origin", no news since then.
I really like the ZL interface and I am used to it, so I know I will not be puzzled while using it (the Sportac has a reverse UI vs the ZL: short click is very low, long click is max). The only thing that the ZL lacks is a magnet on the tail, but I might be able to add one by e.g. glueing it.
yes you can glue a magnet on the tail if you like. I have done it, but found I dont care for tail magnets, because they stick to things I dont intend to.
I prefer to have a separate magnet, that I place the light on. I find I have more aiming flexibility with a separate magnet. And I can choose different lights, Im not limited to just the one with a built in tailmagnet.
the magnet is attracted to the battery inside, does not matter that the host is not magnetic. But you will have to check your own light to be sure. Some big heavy lights might not stick as well as the little AAA lights pictured.
