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Scallywag
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There was someone else struggling to open the SC700d recently, mind sharing how you did?

loneoceans
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Scallywag wrote:
There was someone else struggling to open the SC700d recently, mind sharing how you did?

The front bezel is a typical interference fit - very compact and well machined. I tried one quick attempt to pry it with a small pry tool, but the fit was too tight - didn't want to damage the ring or the flashlight... it is a $120 flashlight after all!

So, I heated up the outer shell with hot air and cooled the ring with an aerosol freeze spray. Then immediately, one sharp blow to the ring with a small hammer and I got the ring out. The glass didn't break but perhaps I was lucky. I have a fair bit of experience taking apart consumer electronics so this is probably the most tricky to do, but not too difficult with some experience I think. 

The reflector looks custom and is very well machined - fits perfectly in the body, and the hole at the bottom is surprisingly big. There is one big O ring around the lip that creates the waterproofing seal and it's compressed in very well. However, you can't just press the glass down to move the O ring because the O ring looks like it's being compressed radially instead of axially, so there is basically no play in the bezel ring fit in the z-direction. The tight tolerances of the ZL machining help make this work. I was hoping to replace the reflector with a TIR optic to fix the tint shifting, but none I could find fit without modification and maintaining a good deal, so I decided to just leave it be just to keep this one as original as possible. I figured that the ZL SC700d makes for a great 'benchmark' light. 

Removal of the board is more tricky because it's potted in, and one of the main connections is soldered down to the spring PCB with a solid metal post instead of a wire. The spring PCB is glued down and impossible to reach with a soldering iron, but I managed to desolder the joint. I used a very high power Metcal iron and I'm not sure if a typical soldering iron would do the job without risk of damaging the joint on the other PCB or damaging the plated TH pads.

Potting was the easiest to remove. I flooded the bay with isopropyl alcohol and used needle tweezers, and it came out safely. 

The only thing I think can be done to mod this flashlight is to either replace the LED with another XHP70 (it's in 6V configuration), but I suspect most people will have trouble replacing it because it's bonded in two parts (half to the PCB and half to the gold-plated copper block, so reflow is going to be tricky if you don't have the right tools), or an easier mod would be to de-dome the LED to reduce the tint-shifting (likely you get 1 good attempt at it!), or to add some sort of filter film to the glass. 

Fitting it back requires care as well. I cleaned up the internals, re-tinned and refluxed, and resoldered on the main connection to the spring PCB. I also cleaned up the silicone potting to make sure there wasn't any contaminants or loose pieces of potting, and reassembled it back, taking care to reprep the surfaces with thermal paste (I used arctic silver). The two screws serve both to clamp the LED onto the body, as well as a high current path for the negative terminal, so the screw are in fact soldered on. Those were easy to desolder, though. I resoldered them back during reassembly. 

Finally, I relubricated the seals and pressed the ring back in with an arbor press, but I did file a very tiny notch in the bottom of the bezel ring with a micro file just enough for a pry tool, in case I wanted to reopen it again more easily. 

I've been using the ZL for a short while and I'm starting to like the UI more. It's not as fun as Anduril for sure, but it definitely is very practical and works really well 'in the field' as a utility tool. 

For a moment I thought about building a driver to replace the ZL driver with the Lume X1 design with Anduril, but it's challenging enough for most folks without the right tools to mod that I'm not sure if it would be practical. A ZL with Anduril though, that would be fun!..

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

- Next-gen Switching Drivers: Lume X1 and Lume1
- High Power Boost Drivers: GXB100 GAN 100W, GXB172 17mm 50W
- Older: GXF22, GFS16, GXB17 & GXB20

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loneoceans wrote:
they used a PIC microcontroller, a TPS61088 regulator and PCB-side-mounted e-switch, all on a single but fairly large PCB (basically one inch square).The main inductor is a Coilcraft 7030 1uH, a perfect choice for the 61088. The design is very similar to most of the switching driver circuits including the Lume drivers, so I guess I’m glad that this shows the Lume is on the right path. I can see ZL swapping out the 61088 for the 61288 for future flashlights for even more power, but I think the Lume X1 is still the first driver to use the 61288 sealed

The LED is mounted in a channel cut in the PCB where a copper block provides thermal contact and heatsinking to the body. The regulator and inductor are potted, but in a soft silicone. It’s compact, but perhaps too compact – and here comes my main criticism. The design does come at the cost of difficulty of reparability and warranty for the product, though it’s robust enough that I think the failure rate is going to be quite low. 

So do you have an idea how they achieve low moonlight ?

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loneoceans wrote:

The only thing I think can be done to mod this flashlight is to either replace the LED with another XHP70 (it’s in 6V configuration), but I suspect most people will have trouble replacing it because it’s bonded in two parts (half to the PCB and half to the gold-plated copper block, so reflow is going to be tricky if you don’t have the right tools), or an easier mod would be to de-dome the LED to reduce the tint-shifting (likely you get 1 good attempt at it!), or to add some sort of filter film to the glass. 


How about a kapton PCB overlay to translate the format to 5050 or 3535?
PCB would move the anode and cathode closer together and leave the center open, so the thermal pad is soldered directly to copper? Bond line would be thicker but it should still work OK.

loneoceans wrote:

Scallywag wrote:
There was someone else struggling to open the SC700d recently, mind sharing how you did?

The front bezel is a typical interference fit – very compact and well machined. I tried one quick attempt to pry it with a small pry tool, but the fit was too tight – didn’t want to damage the ring or the flashlight… it is a $120 flashlight after all!


So, I heated up the outer shell with hot air and cooled the ring with an aerosol freeze spray. Then immediately, one sharp blow to the ring with a small hammer and I got the ring out. The glass didn’t break but perhaps I was lucky. I have a fair bit of experience taking apart consumer electronics so this is probably the most tricky to do, but not too difficult with some experience I think. 


The reflector looks custom and is very well machined – fits perfectly in the body, and the hole at the bottom is surprisingly big. There is one big O ring around the lip that creates the waterproofing seal and it’s compressed in very well. However, you can’t just press the glass down to move the O ring because the O ring looks like it’s being compressed radially instead of axially, so there is basically no play in the bezel ring fit in the z-direction. The tight tolerances of the ZL machining help make this work. I was hoping to replace the reflector with a TIR optic to fix the tint shifting, but none I could find fit without modification and maintaining a good deal, so I decided to just leave it be just to keep this one as original as possible. I figured that the ZL SC700d makes for a great ‘benchmark’ light. 


Thanks for sharing, it’s the first time I see this trick. Previously I’ve seen people opening Zebras by cracking the glass and prying on the ring from below.

loneoceans wrote:

This also makes LED swaps difficult since the design is intrinsically package and footprint specific. It doesn’t really save much room either since it uses a separate PCB as the positive-battery-spring contact (using pogopins), so it still uses 3 boards in total, just like regular flashlights if you count the MCPCB (driver, positive spring, tail spring), but it does improve thermal performance. 


Regardless, I think there is still some value in a 3-piece design (head, body, cap) – it’s cheaper to machine in general, and I guess it’s required for easy re-flashing without using a ridiculously long pogopin programmer (going with the AVR-1 and 3-pin UPDI makes this almost possible, though). I’m not sure how many manufacturers will want to go with the casting method – perhaps there are other possible options but I’m not familiar with them. The unibody does improve on thermal sinking, though. 


Unibody is one thing, the quality of the machining and anodization is another. I think so far Emisar/Noctigon comes the closest. I think the main thing that strikes me about the ZL is the economy of design – it’s so compact and tidily built and I see no reason why other flashlights can’t be designed similarly even if the machining isn’t as good. I’d like to keep the LED and MCPCB swapping though, since that’s really part of the ethos of the BLF community, and I think all these are not difficult to achieve at the same cost of machining.


You don’t need very long pogo pins to flash unibody light. The programming pads could be placed at the front of the head instead. Or one could use USB for that.

As to swaps…years ago, it would be easy to swap pills or drop-ins. Inside a pill or a drop it, it would be quite easy to swap the driver or the LED. With a simple spacer, one could also turn that to a triple or quad; spacers were available for the popular formats.

Nowadays, most lights come with solid shelves, so no pill swapping.
Drivers of e-switch lights are often of non-standard size which makes swapping harder. I’m not sure if I’ve seen an Emisar with a swapped driver before Lume X1 (though I’m not sure whether the RGB Emisar D4 had a heavily modified or replaced driver).
Keychain lights often choose LiPo cells and these always have custom drivers as well as custom LED PCBs (metal or not).

We’ve got over that, I think.
Should we give up LED swaps? IMHO – not easily. But the question is whether moving the driver to the front of the head precludes the ability to swap LEDs – and I think the answer might be no. Could driver be placed on a flex PCB wrapped around the optics, freeing lots of space for a regular MCPCB? Or driver overlaid on top of a regular MCPCB? Leave 10 mm in the middle of the light for a regular PCB and put the driver as a ring around it? I don’t know.

At the same time – it the driver-in-the-front strategy worth pursuing? If Zebra couldn’t figure out a good way to avoid a PCB at the battery positive contact, maybe there is no easy to manufacture replacement that would be more compact and as performant?

BTW, from my limited experience Lumintop anodization is more durable than that from Emisar. But I have only 1 Lumintop to compare (GT Mini).

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BTW, Zebra’s approach to weight is the opposite from what most budget brands do. Zebra cares a lot about making lightweight lights. Budget manufacturers tend to prefer hefty.
I understand how huge shelves help Emisar or Fireflies increase Turbo duration. I recognise that they still get criticised for Turbo being too short. It was their choice, performance-to-size at the expense of weight.
The only budget maker that chose to make his lights small and light is DQG. But DQG is at the opposite extreme with his lights being poor performers.

I so wish there was a brand that would try to make their lights as small and lightweight as possible while maintaining proper thermal design…I’m a huge fan of DQG but I sometimes miss higher output in his lights.

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thefreeman wrote:

So do you have an idea how they achieve low moonlight ?

I opened an old H600 mkII, they had the lowest moonlight, it uses 3 current sense resistors :

Is it the same in the SC700d ?

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Agro wrote:
You don't need very long pogo pins to flash unibody light. The programming pads could be placed at the front of the head instead. Or one could use USB for that. As to swaps...years ago, it would be easy to swap pills or drop-ins. Inside a pill or a drop it, it would be quite easy to swap the driver or the LED. With a simple spacer, one could also turn that to a triple or quad; spacers were available for the popular formats. Nowadays, most lights come with solid shelves, so no pill swapping. Drivers of e-switch lights are often of non-standard size which makes swapping harder. I'm not sure if I've seen an Emisar with a swapped driver before Lume X1 (though I'm not sure whether the RGB Emisar D4 had a heavily modified or replaced driver).

Agro wrote:
BTW, Zebra's approach to weight is the opposite from what most budget brands do. Zebra cares a lot about making lightweight lights. Budget manufacturers tend to prefer hefty. I understand how huge shelves help Emisar or Fireflies increase Turbo duration. I recognise that they still get criticised for Turbo being too short. It was their choice, performance-to-size at the expense of weight. The only budget maker that chose to make his lights small and light is DQG. But DQG is at the opposite extreme with his lights being poor performers. I so wish there was a brand that would try to make their lights as small and lightweight as possible while maintaining proper thermal design...I'm a huge fan of DQG but I sometimes miss higher output in his lights.

 

A couple of years ago I made the GXF22 which was a 10A linear + FET driver for my Emisar D4 - https://budgetlightforum.com/node/67820, and fitted it with four Luxeon Vs. It looks like the newer Emisar / Noctigons are now using the same linear + FET configuration, but I didn't continue any development on that project because it was just... inefficient and I didn't see significant added value over cheap AMC7135 drivers other than the fact that it is PWM-free. 

It's possible to make E-switch drivers swappable, but I imagine it would only apply to side-switch flashlights with a separate e-switch board. (I have to say I much prefer side-switches though, much more ergonomic IMO). There just needs to be a few standards which I suppose is challenging... 

Personally I prefer a slightly lighter flashlight. I bought a copper FW3C for my Lume1 project and while it does feel nice in the hand, I've wound up not carrying it around much because it's just too heavy in any sort of pocket. Including the battery, the FW3C is 16g heavier than the much larger ZL SC700d with 21700 battery. 

Regarding swapping the LED, keep in mind that the driver is configured for 6V. Perhaps you could swap it out for a XHP50.2 but I don't think you're gaining much there for the amount of work. Likewise the 144AM could possibly fit but at the expense of significant loss of thermal performance; best to just design a driver-led-sink assembly specifically for the flashlight. If I manage to get another SC700d for some reason it could be a fun project. 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

- Next-gen Switching Drivers: Lume X1 and Lume1
- High Power Boost Drivers: GXB100 GAN 100W, GXB172 17mm 50W
- Older: GXF22, GFS16, GXB17 & GXB20

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loneoceans wrote:

Agro wrote:
You don’t need very long pogo pins to flash unibody light. The programming pads could be placed at the front of the head instead. Or one could use USB for that. As to swaps…years ago, it would be easy to swap pills or drop-ins. Inside a pill or a drop it, it would be quite easy to swap the driver or the LED. With a simple spacer, one could also turn that to a triple or quad; spacers were available for the popular formats. Nowadays, most lights come with solid shelves, so no pill swapping. Drivers of e-switch lights are often of non-standard size which makes swapping harder. I’m not sure if I’ve seen an Emisar with a swapped driver before Lume X1 (though I’m not sure whether the RGB Emisar D4 had a heavily modified or replaced driver).

Agro wrote:
BTW, Zebra’s approach to weight is the opposite from what most budget brands do. Zebra cares a lot about making lightweight lights. Budget manufacturers tend to prefer hefty. I understand how huge shelves help Emisar or Fireflies increase Turbo duration. I recognise that they still get criticised for Turbo being too short. It was their choice, performance-to-size at the expense of weight. The only budget maker that chose to make his lights small and light is DQG. But DQG is at the opposite extreme with his lights being poor performers. I so wish there was a brand that would try to make their lights as small and lightweight as possible while maintaining proper thermal design…I’m a huge fan of DQG but I sometimes miss higher output in his lights.

 


A couple of years ago I made the GXF22 which was a 10A linear + FET driver for my Emisar D4 - https://budgetlightforum.com/node/67820, and fitted it with four Luxeon Vs. It looks like the newer Emisar / Noctigons are now using the same linear + FET configuration, but I didn’t continue any development on that project because it was just… inefficient and I didn’t see significant added value over cheap AMC7135 drivers other than the fact that it is PWM-free. 


It’s possible to make E-switch drivers swappable, but I imagine it would only apply to side-switch flashlights with a separate e-switch board. (I have to say I much prefer side-switches though, much more ergonomic IMO). There just needs to be a few standards which I suppose is challenging… 


Personally I prefer a slightly lighter flashlight. I bought a copper FW3C for my Lume1 project and while it does feel nice in the hand, I’ve wound up not carrying it around much because it’s just too heavy in any sort of pocket. Including the battery, the FW3C is 16g heavier than the much larger ZL SC700d with 21700 battery. 


Regarding swapping the LED, keep in mind that the driver is configured for 6V. Perhaps you could swap it out for a XHP50.2 but I don’t think you’re gaining much there for the amount of work. Likewise the 144AM could possibly fit but at the expense of significant loss of thermal performance; best to just design a driver-led-sink assembly specifically for the flashlight. If I manage to get another SC700d for some reason it could be a fun project. 


There are also numerous 6V automotive LEDs. And Nichia NV4WB35AM.
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Ha! So my idea does work.. Awesome work getting this open AND reassembled cleanly! Beer

Do you really find the SC700 an EDC-able size? I personally set a soft cutoff at 26mm dia and 105mm length and a max of 28×120. Ideally its 23×95, personally.

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The unique feature of Zebralight it is not just ultra lower moonlight but I think here more important is power consumption in that mode. loneoceans can you post measurements in that mode of your driver compared to ZB?

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thefreeman wrote:
thefreeman wrote:

So do you have an idea how they achieve low moonlight ?

I opened an old H600 mkII, they had the lowest moonlight, it uses 3 current sense resistors :

Is it the same in the SC700d ?


You say these had the lowest moonlight – how does it compare to the SC62? Those are also pretty low. I know the newer SC64-series is a bit higher.
icpart wrote:
The unique feature of Zebralight it is not just ultra lower moonlight but I think here more important is power consumption in that mode. loneoceans can you post measurements in that mode of your driver compared to ZB?

Famously a SC62w on reddit ran for over a year on the lowest moonlight mode, from a fully charged 3500mAh 18650.
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Scallywag wrote:
You say these had the lowest moonlight – how does it compare to the SC62? Those are also pretty low. I know the newer SC64-series is a bit higher.
icpart wrote:
The unique feature of Zebralight it is not just ultra lower moonlight but I think here more important is power consumption in that mode. loneoceans can you post measurements in that mode of your driver compared to ZB?
Famously a SC62w on reddit ran for over a year on the lowest moonlight mode, from a fully charged 3500mAh 18650.

They have the same specs so I would assume it’s the same guts in a different body. More recent ZLs have a higher moonlight and a higher power consumption, my H600IV draw about 1mA on the lowest level, it would not last as long as the MKII. To have very long runtime the components need to be carefully chosen to have very low power consumption.

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thefreeman wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
You say these had the lowest moonlight – how does it compare to the SC62? Those are also pretty low. I know the newer SC64-series is a bit higher.
icpart wrote:
The unique feature of Zebralight it is not just ultra lower moonlight but I think here more important is power consumption in that mode. loneoceans can you post measurements in that mode of your driver compared to ZB?
Famously a SC62w on reddit ran for over a year on the lowest moonlight mode, from a fully charged 3500mAh 18650.

They have the same specs so I would assume it’s the same guts in a different body. More recent ZLs have a higher moonlight and a higher power consumption, my H600IV draw about 1mA on the lowest level, it would not last as long as the MKII. To have very long runtime very low power the components need to be carefully chosen to have very low power consumption.


Also firmware is very important to have very low power consuption. In that mode we have active CPU and we need to have very low consumption of DC/DC converter, analog part and etc. About DC/DC switching devices I find very interesting AN from TI.
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Agro wrote:
I’ve wished for years that some Chinese manufacturer would attempt to compete with Zebra quality, maybe even beat it while offering good LEDs, BLF UIs, higher outputs and no glue… You drivers bridge a part of the gap. It is still wide in other areas though.

Well there is Olight with build quality 2nd to noone and driver more efficient than Zebralight. Problem is they refuse to offer anything other than piss poor low CRI CW emitters. I’m so glad Fireflies is using the Lume drivers in their new series of lights. I bought 5 of the FF lights and am super happy with all of them. Finally these lights have regulation and can sustain a good amount of light and do it efficiently!

Though one thing I admire about Olight is their extremely simple and intuitive UI. I know some prefer the much more powerful Zebralight or Anduril UI but I never use those advanced features…

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SKV89 wrote:
Agro wrote:
I’ve wished for years that some Chinese manufacturer would attempt to compete with Zebra quality, maybe even beat it while offering good LEDs, BLF UIs, higher outputs and no glue… You drivers bridge a part of the gap. It is still wide in other areas though.

Well there is Olight with build quality 2nd to noone and driver more efficient than Zebralight. Problem is they refuse to offer anything other than piss poor low CRI CW emitters. I’m so glad Fireflies is using the Lume drivers in their new series of lights. I bought 5 of the FF lights and am super happy with all of them. Finally these lights have regulation and can sustain a good amount of light and do it efficiently!

Though one thing I admire about Olight is their extremely simple and intuitive UI. I know some prefer the much more powerful Zebralight or Anduril UI but I never use those advanced features…


Olight with their marketing department second to none. As far as opening the lights it’s just as bad as zebralight. Then they’re dedicated to proprietary charging as well as cells.

I also can’t say I’m impressed with the constant practice of leaving plastic TIRs exposed. From the two olights I’ve had apart I didn’t notice anything special about the build design, even if the machining and finishing is done well.

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SKV89 wrote:
Agro wrote:
I’ve wished for years that some Chinese manufacturer would attempt to compete with Zebra quality, maybe even beat it while offering good LEDs, BLF UIs, higher outputs and no glue… You drivers bridge a part of the gap. It is still wide in other areas though.

Well there is Olight with build quality 2nd to noone and driver more efficient than Zebralight. Problem is they refuse to offer anything other than piss poor low CRI CW emitters. I’m so glad Fireflies is using the Lume drivers in their new series of lights. I bought 5 of the FF lights and am super happy with all of them. Finally these lights have regulation and can sustain a good amount of light and do it efficiently!

Though one thing I admire about Olight is their extremely simple and intuitive UI. I know some prefer the much more powerful Zebralight or Anduril UI but I never use those advanced features…


Of the things I mentioned, it fails at good LEDs, BLF UIs and no glue….
…quite far from we could wish for.
That said, thanks for the mention. I was not aware that their drivers were so efficient.
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Quick question to all:

  • Suppose I created a Lume X1 driver for a flashlight for DIY modification as a driver drop-in replacement, which flashlight target would be the most popular for all?

  • Another option is to work with a manufacturer to bring this driver to everyone in a flashlight. This is not quite up to me to decide since it depends on which manufacturer is willing to take the chance on a design like this. If this is the case, what does your idea specification look like for the flashlight (single XHP70.2? Triple or Quad 3535 in series? B35AM?) and which manufacturer do you think I should contact? 

Thanks!

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

- Next-gen Switching Drivers: Lume X1 and Lume1
- High Power Boost Drivers: GXB100 GAN 100W, GXB172 17mm 50W
- Older: GXF22, GFS16, GXB17 & GXB20

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  1. I was thinking to get KR1 and after i saw this thread, i only want it (almost) as your setup. But for high power FC40 i’d might go with 21700 build like Firefliesor possibly Convoy...

  2. Which brings us to answer on your second question. Simon/Convoy is ok guy when it comes to buyers suggestions and requests but i’m not sure how hemight react to this request. Second, third and fourth that i could think of are Hank/Noctigon, Jack/Fireflies and Barry/Sofirn.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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I would like to see the drop-in driver for FW1A. The problem is the availability. Is it still in production? If not, it can be made available again. In fact, there is a thread for another run for FW3A in select colors. It requires minimum of 100 orders. If lucky, we can benefit from this occasion. I would like to see FW1A in bare aluminum with Lume X1.

As an offering from a manufacturer, I would like to see it from Emisar/Noctigon. KR1 with B35AM would be nice. The modded KR1 with Lume X1 exists, too. This is my guess, but they have Nichia already in their lights. Perhaps, B35AM can be sourced without difficulty as well.

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loneoceans wrote:

Quick question to all:



  • Suppose I created a Lume X1 driver for a flashlight for DIY modification as a driver drop-in replacement, which flashlight target would be the most popular for all?


  • Another option is to work with a manufacturer to bring this driver to everyone in a flashlight. This is not quite up to me to decide since it depends on which manufacturer is willing to take the chance on a design like this. If this is the case, what does your idea specification look like for the flashlight (single XHP70.2? Triple or Quad 3535 in series? B35AM?) and which manufacturer do you think I should contact? 


Thanks!

Most popular sizes afaik are 17mm and 20mm – fitting many 18650 and 21700 hosts respectively. Even something like the Texas Avenger “TA30 – 30mm series : Same as 22mm only larger silk screen basically. You can sand it down to anything between ~22mm and 30mm.” (from here) would add extra versatility.

At that point, a shared oshpark PCB and a parts list (bonus points for links to mouser/digikey/whatever) would get it into a few people’s hands (I’d try my hand at a few personally).

Beyond that, if you can get mtn electronics to sell them, that would be amazing.

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Scallywag wrote:
Beyond that, if you can get mtn electronics to sell them, that would be amazing.

This^. If someone could buy in qty and sell kits at equal/lesser cost than an individual can piecemeal, heck ya that’s a no brainer. MTN is the only one who does that already, and I don’t ever mind sending $ his way.

And I think Amutorch, Fireflies, and Hank/Noctigon are top targets IMO (no specific order). Simon/Convoy would probably turn it down for cost reasons. Sofirn I don’t have faith in for new ideas since their disregard for the huge interest in the ‘grandma/pa’ light djozz requested.

Amutorch does OEM stuff, and I really like some of what they do (great logo too ha). I think you’ve worked with FF before, so maybe they’re not a wildcard. FF is becoming a favorite of mine quickly with some of the things they are trying. Hank seems to only march to his own drum, but maybe this can be just enticing enough for him to bite.

I would love to see the FF E01 be upgraded to the X1 and a 144/B35 and an OLGA-M or Gaggione [edit: won’t fit Tired ]blending optic. I’m about to buy one now in anticipation of it being possible soon. 30$ with coupon, btw.

As of now with the few options for series configuration triples/quads, it’s tough to say what would be most popular. Next comes the issues with driver cavity depth on popular ligths like the D4/FWxx. Single emitter side e-switch budget lights.. SC31 and FC11? Wowtac A6? Can’t think right now what else is common here in that class.

PS: Brands on the periphery that I don’t think will respond but make nice stuff are Skilhunt and Rofis.

iamlucky13
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The Convoy S2+ is always popular due to cost and ease of modifying, but since it is a clicky, Bistro would be a better UI option. Power handling is also a concern due to the threaded pill.

For a momentary switch light, I think the Sofirn SP32 / Wurkkos FC11 look interesting and are reasonably priced. I don’t own either, but am considering getting one to try to modify as a host for another driver. From looking up some teardowns, both appear to have a fair amount of space in the driver cavity and an integrated LED shelf. Some consideration would need to be made for how to deal with the switch PCB, and whether to keep, duplicate, or remove the USB charging circuit.

I think the two lights might use the same driver form factor, although I think the Wurkkos has a simpler driver, based on runtime tests.

The Emisar D4 would be great with a driver like this, but it’s already pretty great, and Hank knows this, so I don’t know how interested he is in another driver. It has a very shallow driver cavity that would need to be deeper for that inductor.

Agro
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JaredM wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
Beyond that, if you can get mtn electronics to sell them, that would be amazing.

This^. If someone could buy in qty and sell kits at equal/lesser cost than an individual can piecemeal, heck ya that’s a no brainer. MTN is the only one who does that already, and I don’t ever mind sending $ his way.

And I think Amutorch, Fireflies, and Hank/Noctigon are top targets IMO (no specific order). Simon/Convoy would probably turn it down for cost reasons. Sofirn I don’t have faith in for new ideas since their disregard for the huge interest in the ‘grandma/pa’ light djozz requested.

Amutorch does OEM stuff, and I really like some of what they do (great logo too ha). I think you’ve worked with FF before, so maybe they’re not a wildcard. FF is becoming a favorite of mine quickly with some of the things they are trying. Hank seems to only march to his own drum, but maybe this can be just enticing enough for him to bite.

I would love to see the FF E01 be upgraded to the X1 and a 144/B35 and an OLGA-M or Gaggione [edit: won’t fit Tired ]blending optic. I’m about to buy one now in anticipation of it being possible soon. 30$ with coupon, btw.

As of now with the few options for series configuration triples/quads, it’s tough to say what would be most popular. Next comes the issues with driver cavity depth on popular ligths like the D4/FWxx. Single emitter side e-switch budget lights.. SC31 and FC11? Wowtac A6? Can’t think right now what else is common here in that class.

PS: Brands on the periphery that I don’t think will respond but make nice stuff are Skilhunt and Rofis.


FF would be among my favourities if not for their taste for heavyweight lights. I really loved their first E07 drawing. But then they took the advice to increase turbo time by adding thickness to the shelf and took it to the extreme. Some users loved the result but for me the light was ruined.

They haven’t sketched or made a light that I would desire since then. But I do admire how they are quick to follow the lead of others or lead the way themselves.
I wonder whether they could be convinced to make another line that would be more lightweight….

furandchalk
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I was pretty stoked to read the OP. I’m not a hobbyist at all, so I’m probably alone here, but I figured I’d chime in just in case others are interested enough to actually make it happen. I only have 1 Anduril light, a D4v2, which basically just sits in a closet because it seems more like a neat toy than a tool. I use a ZL H600Fc almost daily for rock climbing, along with various ground lights, all of which I hate for one reason or another. Internal or proprietary batteries, tint, runtime, weight, whatever. The H600 is my favorite light, but I’m not a fan of the UI, and I’ve been waiting for an efficient Anduril light with a driver like this for a long time, particularly a 21700 version. Plus I smashed the glass within 2 weeks of using the H600 and it’ll be at least 12 weeks to get it back from China…

Anyway, I’d like to see a 21700 Anduril 2 right angle with the Lume X1. Basically an Olight Perun 2, but with a warm high CRI LED. Despite being a 21700, the extra weight of the Perun 2 is barely noticeable, especially if I’m wearing a helmet. I’d buy a Perun, but as with Olight’s other 9895K lights, it’s pretty disorienting while climbing. The FF PL47 Gen 2 was tempting, and I’ll probably get the Gen 3 if it gets an efficient driver. But it isn’t ideal due to the bulk and quad LED’s.

My perfect light would be a 21700 right angle single emitter, preferably built by Hank, and with the USB-C port in the threads like the K1. (No on-board charging at all if the alternative is a rubber flap.)

I’d also love a 21700 KR1 with the Lume X1. I think the light you envisioned in the OP would be the best Anduril light ever made. I actually kind of like the KR1’s metal tail switch though, but I’m sure I’m in the minority because a side switch makes more sense. Anyway, I enjoyed following the KR1 mod and the first Lume1 thread. Thanks for designing them. Seems like the future.

uselessuser
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Is that aux board obtainable somewhere? I didn’t see it in loneocean’s projects on Oshpark. I think Lexel had similar ones but can’t find anything there either.
Those aux LEDs behind the optic look amazing!

clientequator
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uselessuser wrote:
Is that aux board obtainable somewhere? I didn’t see it in loneocean’s projects on Oshpark. I think Lexel had similar ones but can’t find anything there either. Those aux LEDs behind the optic look amazing!

Today I check and I see loneoceans has aux board file here https://oshpark.com/profiles/loneoceanslabs

SilverHazeFlash
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While I can’t contribute to the technical discussions I just wanted to express my excitement when reading about a Zebralight size form factor, with Arduril 2, efficient driver and a low moonlight- truly a dream light. Fingers and toes crossed a manufacturer is found that can deliver on the dream

hinbli
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SilverHazeFlash wrote:
While I can’t contribute to the technical discussions I just wanted to express my excitement when reading about a Zebralight size form factor, with Arduril 2, efficient driver and a low moonlight- truly a dream light. Fingers and toes crossed a manufacturer is found that can deliver on the dream

…and if Lume X1 is available as a DIY driver, just like Lume1, it will be great.

I hope so.

JaredM
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I want to see if Wildtrail is interested. What do y’all think about a Lume powered unibody by them?

Scallywag
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JaredM wrote:
I want to see if Wildtrail is interested. What do y’all think about a Lume powered unibody by them?

The machining on my D80v2 is excellent. They ought to be capable of a good unibody construction.

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