thefreeman’s HDR Anduril 2 boost drivers - update : KR1 B35AM & D4v2, Buck driver

239 posts / 0 new
Last post
thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

Hmm, I’ve never had a package with UPS coming outside of EU, but looking at other French feedbacks it is the same as DHL when the seller doesn’t take care of the VAT, they charge some customs clearance fees (like 20~25€) on top of the VAT, and it takes more time. Mouser is much better since they take care of everything, it’s like buying from the EU, initially I planned to wait until they receive the part, it was predicted for the end of March but got delayed to the end of the year Sad

Mike C
Mike C's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 01/22/2014 - 08:03
Posts: 2584
Location: Sweden

Same in Sweden, if the seller doesn’t take care of it there is additional fee regardless of courier.

But in my case the seller (Digikey.se) takes care of the VAT via UPS. Only difference from Mouser is it’s a separate bill for the VAT. So for me ordering from Digikey is as easy as Mouser. UPS send me the VAT bill which I pay with Swedish bank app for quick money transfer, very convenient. Check with digikey.fr, send them a mail and ask. I would be surprised if ordering from Digikey.fr is more of a hassle.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

I didn’t think to ask because on a local forum people advise against digikey due to that. They do ship with VAT paid when you’re business (have a VAT number).

Mike C
Mike C's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 01/22/2014 - 08:03
Posts: 2584
Location: Sweden

For a long time I avoided Digikey for that reason, my first order in 2014 was indeed a hassle. But since then Digikey.se was introduced and last year I wanted some stuff that only Digikey had so I decided to give it a go and was pleasantly surprised. Now I don’t care weather it’s Digikey or Mouser, I order where the parts are which is very convenient.

Light Veteran
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 10/17/2019 - 03:36
Posts: 85
Location: Italy

Nice project! Anti flicker in moon level is the first problem solved in your driver? Big Smile

Flashlight addicted

Mike C
Mike C's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 01/22/2014 - 08:03
Posts: 2584
Location: Sweden

I think I ordered more 61288s than I need. If you want, send me a PM once your driver boards arrive from OSH Park and I can send you one or two. You can paypal me the cost once you receive it, no need for pre-payment.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

Thanks you for the offer, I may still make an order from them as they have other a few other thing I’d like, but If I don’t I’ll PM you. Innocent

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

Some news!

I received the last parts Wednesday (at last), yesterday I made one board, first time reflowing anything else than an LED but it turned out well : 

 

This morning I tested the driver, only the hardware by bypassing the MCU : 

 

And it works! The output voltage/current is stable, here is a quick output voltage waveform with the scope I just bought : 

The only issue is that I got less current than expected, with 44mV ref voltage and 9.2mΩ (7+mosfet resistance) I should get ~4.78A, but I only get ~3.7A. After a quick check the real ref is ~43mV and the mosfet resistance is ~4.4mΩ which explains the difference. Swapping the resistance with a 5mΩ one should do the trick, but I’m worried about the ON resistance variation of the mosfet between parts.

Next I need to adapt Anduril for it.

Quadrupel
Quadrupel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 55 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 12/03/2017 - 10:40
Posts: 732
Location: Lithuania
Smile
thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

I just received 21mm boards from Oshpark 

 

 

They’re prettier.

Aussiemandias
Aussiemandias's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 5 days ago
Joined: 01/30/2021 - 21:36
Posts: 107
Location: QLD Australia

Following

gchart
gchart's picture
Online
Last seen: 14 min 44 sec ago
Joined: 03/19/2016 - 11:57
Posts: 3158
Location: Central IL

I’m not sure how I’ve missed this thread! Well done, thefreeman! I can’t wait to see this develop more. And of course, I’m happy to see the usage of the 1-Series AVRs.

FlashPilot
FlashPilot's picture
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 27 min ago
Joined: 05/10/2010 - 16:07
Posts: 4812
Location: USA

Congratulations! I cant wait to see how this turns out…

Sunnysunsun
Sunnysunsun's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 08/09/2019 - 12:51
Posts: 754
Location: Toronto

How does your driver regarding these characteristics? If behaves well regarding these qualities (from dtr’s laser shop), your driver could be a good choice for LEP driver swaps if more e-switch LEPs pop up in the future.

An ideal power supply for a laser diode has the following characteristics:
• Current source
• Transient suppression (also low noise)
• Independent clamping current limit
• Slow start / ramping the current signal during switch-on
• Output overvoltage protection
• Input undervoltage detection
• Output short-circuit / interruption detection
• Shorting output during driver off status for ESD protection
• No undershooting of the output voltage at switch-off of the laser, so that a negative voltage over the laser diode cannot occur.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France
FlashPilot wrote:
Congratulations! I cant wait to see how this turns out…
gchart wrote:
I’m not sure how I’ve missed this thread! Well done, thefreeman! I can’t wait to see this develop more. And of course, I’m happy to see the usage of the 1-Series AVRs.

Thanks.

I got a bit of a scare yesterday, I couldn’t read the device in microchip studio. Couldn’t sleep while trying to figure out what was wrong, then it clicked, I ordered the older programing key Facepalm , despite that you told me you changed it, I completely forgot that, I must have had the older key already in my oshpark projects. Thankfully it didn’t fry the chip (5V on UDPI, UDPI on GND, GND on +).

For now I just tested your TCD sample code.

Sunnysunsun wrote:
How does your driver regarding these characteristics? If behaves well regarding these qualities (from dtr’s laser shop), your driver could be a good choice for LEP driver swaps if more e-switch LEPs pop up in the future.

Aren’t laser diodes low voltage ? The present driver uses a boost converter for voltages higher than li-ion.

• Current source : yes.
• Transient suppression (also low noise) : switching converters are noisy, maybe a linear driver would be better suited for this.
• Independent clamping current limit : sometimes there is an adjustable switch limit but this isn’t the case with the TPS61288 (fixed limit).
• Slow start / ramping the current signal during switch-on : sure that’s possible, in hardware (it’s already the case, but can be increased) or software.
• Output overvoltage protection : yes.
• Input undervoltage detection : most switching ICs have an undervoltage lockout, sometimes adjustable, on the TPS61288 it’s 1.9V, can be done in software, anduril have a default LVP of 2.8V (or 2.7 ?).
• Output short-circuit / interruption detection : don’t know how to do that.
• Shorting output during driver off status for ESD protection : idem.
• No undershooting of the output voltage at switch-off of the laser, so that a negative voltage over the laser diode cannot occur. : not sure about this either.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

I made a quick efficiency measurement, this is with a current clamp so it’s not very precise.
Vin : 3.96V Iin 6.36A Pin = 25.19W
Vout : 6.40V Iout : 3.73A Pout = 23.87W
Efficiency = 94.8%

This is with a reverse protection PFET, without it it could increase by 0.5~1%, and with a bigger inductor with lower DCR like a XAL7070 maybe ~1% (more at lower input voltage)

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 10 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 6821
Location: Ślōnsk

Good. Smile

mbp
Online
Last seen: 5 min ago
Joined: 04/01/2019 - 11:00
Posts: 381
Location: Baltimore, MD

Probably a long way off but if you end up making these in any quantity I will need to purchase at least one. It seems a 12v e-switch boost driver is kind of a unicorn, I need one for an FT02 host with the GT-FC40 LED, to have one with Anduril would be even better.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

I will probably make some, what is the size and available height ?

mbp
Online
Last seen: 5 min ago
Joined: 04/01/2019 - 11:00
Posts: 381
Location: Baltimore, MD
thefreeman wrote:
I will probably make some, what is the size and available height ?

I think it is 25mm in diameter, might be 26mm, I can check when I have it in hand. In terms of height, I can check that also but I don’t think component height will be major limiting factor, it does use a boost driver stock and the battery tube has a lot of extra space too. Thank you for responding, and for your work on this project, very exciting.

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2046
Location: Croatia

thefreeman wrote:
I will probably make some, what is the size and available height ?

 

I would need a few for KR1 and M21C-U... just saying...

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

KR1 has a tail switch with signal tube (as you probably noticed Big Smile ), it would require a different PCB. Bigger PCBs are easy though, just need to increase the diameter.

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2046
Location: Croatia

thefreeman wrote:
KR1 has a tail switch (as you probably noticed Big Smile ), it would require a different PCB. Bigger PCB are easy though, just need to increase the diameter.

Oh man that would be AWESOME if you could pull that one.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

mbp
Online
Last seen: 5 min ago
Joined: 04/01/2019 - 11:00
Posts: 381
Location: Baltimore, MD

KR1 with GT-FC40 would be an amazing EDC. My tint snobbery has become so bad I can’t tolerate my W2 KR1 anymore, so I already have a good host, and would take one of those too if they end up being made!

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 min 41 sec ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 2246
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

And then the FW21 Pro after that. I’m going to try and one to use an ANGIE optic. Think of it as a spiritual KR4S. If this driver also supports 6V, I’d run 4 parallel Nichia B35AM.

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2046
Location: Croatia

mbp wrote:
KR1 with GT-FC40 would be an amazing EDC. My tint snobbery has become so bad I can't tolerate my W2 KR1 anymore, so I already have a good host, and would take one of those too if they end up being made!

 

My thought exactly!

Present size is perfect for Convoy M21C-U (22mm) which is also great host

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

The issue with the KR1, as pointed out by loneoceans, is the shallow driver cavity which cannot fit a 3mm tall inductor such as a XAL7030, going with a 2mm one would severely impact the current capabilities, to fit a 7030 inductor he milled a cutout, which isn’t an easy thing to do if you don’t have the necessary tools.
I don’t know exactly what is the available height, but if it’s arround 2.5mm then we could use a 0.8mm PCB, with a spacer (simply a solid wire) to gain 0.8mm, or maybe even a bit more depending on how much is needed, and what the tube assembly allows. This is a much simpler modification.

Although as somebody pointed me out (JaredM I think) maybe the 0.8mm wouldn’t be as strong and might need potting, or maybe just a pad between the inductor and body would sufficient.
I have some 0.8mm 22mm PCB coming in the mail so I’ll see, they’re for a D4v2, which I still don’t have actually (maybe somebody has a dead one for me ? Big Smile ) , I’m guessing also has a shallow driver cavity.

But about developing another PCB specifically for the KR1, I don’t know, it depends what Loneoceans does I guess, as he already has one for it, but hasn’t published it yet.

JaredM wrote:
And then the FW21 Pro after that. I’m going to try and one to use an ANGIE optic. Think of it as a spiritual KR4S. If this driver also supports 6V, I’d run 4 parallel Nichia B35AM.

Another light with inner body tube, with a shallow cavity too I imagine, has somebody disassembled it ?

Agro
Agro's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 10 sec ago
Joined: 05/14/2017 - 11:16
Posts: 6821
Location: Ślōnsk

How about regular PCB with a hole for an inductor and auxiliary flex PCB, soldered on the battery side of the main PCB, just filling the hole and connecting the inductor? Probably potting would be a good idea to add strength.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Online
Last seen: 7 min 51 sec ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 875
Location: France

Hmmm, but it’ll be under the positive and switch spring, it’ll also use more than double the surface.

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2046
Location: Croatia

Well i'd be happy with plain old 22mm, OG design and wired e-switch. not to complicate much.

Although KR1 thought is mmm

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Pages