SunLikeLamp's OPEN Base of PCBs for 3030 2835 5050 3535 3030 2525 LEDs

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SunLikeLamp's OPEN Base of PCBs for 3030 2835 5050 3535 3030 2525 LEDs

Hello peoples of the flat Earth. I maked decision, that all my projects must be published (if here is incorrect place for this topic, just let me know where is correct)

Also excuse me for my english. Some times I need to use translator, and the results seems not so correct as must be.

I take 100-150$ for design of the project of PCB for leds (it is really expensive to the MORDOR’s territory, yes, it is joke based on this picture )

But I will give all of my projects for free here (also projects what was designed for money, I already asked customers about publishing their projects for free)

In this time all files (with 20+5 projects) will be in one .7z archive (.lay6 final and previous versions of pcbs and stencils (SS), .png preview pictures, some .gbr files ready to go to producing)

You can download it (40mb) here yandex disc
or here mail.ru cloud
or here goodrive

password is: password

Inside is:
2-5050
3-353025
4-5050
6-2835ccr
6-3030
6-3030ccr
6-353025
12-3030
12-3030-64
12-3030ccr
14-3030
36-3030
36-353025
42-3030
48-5050
60-2835
108-353025 v2.2E
BA15S
C5W
W5W
SS Stencils
t8-3530 (future project)
t18-2835 (future project)
t18-3030 (future project)
t36-2835 (future project)
t90-2835 (future project)
PCBuv (not my project for nail lamp with 3 types of uv)

I will add info later, but:

5050 LEDs (I use it for grow blue, red, white leds):
The main idea was to using more chips in the same square, also I find that they already can be with 60-80° lens (was 120°)

48-5050 73.2021 Ø73mm

4-5050 79.2021 Ø23.4mm (I just finished it and I have time to start this topic and prepare files to publishing)

2-5050 october 2019 22×22mm (need additional space to V-cut)



3030 and 2835 LEDs (it is possible to solder 3030 leds in 2835 contacts, and 2835 in 3030 pads)
6-3030ccr 330.2020 Ø23.4mm

6-2835ccr december 2019 22×22mm (need additional space to V-cut)


6-3030 november 2019 22×22mm (need additional space to V-cut)


12-3030 74.2021 64×12.5mm

12-3030 november 2019 99×12mm (need additional space to holes)

12-3030ccr november 2019 99×12mm



14-3030 december 2019 100×86.6mm (idea was to change CCT and do not use additional heatsink)

36-3030 248.2020 Ø47mm



42-3030 288.2020 Ø110mm

60-2835 245.2020 Ø65mm (at first it was project for 75 leds)


For vehicles with 3030 leds:
BA15S



W5W (T10 T5)



C5W (T11)

3535 3030 2525 LEDs:

108-353025 may 2019 73×63mm copper base (idea was to combine 3535 3030 2525 leds with switching modes)



6-353025 october 2019 (can be 2S3P or 6P, also need additional space to V-cut, next will be for 8pcs project)



p.s.
FastFAQ
0. How to draw it?
- I use Sprint Layout 6 (I think that after 4 year of using it I draw it like a god, but it takes 5-20hours for 1 pcb and every project need some little changes after some days or hours of analyzing what the final is) after the drawing need to export holes (3.3 format of .drl) and layers (mask, copper, silkscreen, outline) to gerber format (.gbr)
- The most important was to understand the limitations of PCB manufacturing technology. For example, that the V-cut has a certain width and the manufacturer (hi to allpsb Angry ) does not add the distance between the boards even if the blade goes on the track, and we will know this only after receiving the board (1.5-2 months in my case). Also the distance between the tracks. This is all done experimentally. Now I use 0.25 0.3 0.35 and rarely 0.4 mm, although there is a chance that they will still increase the distance to 0.3 mm, although at 0.25 mm they did not warn me about increasing the distance. You also need to know the error of the holes. Contact pads also have a margin of error. Also in silkscreen printing. I think that different manufacturers have a different margin of error, but approximately the same. – 0.25-0.3mm between near roads, and 0.3-0.35mm between further (36-90v). Error rate of the hole maker is ~0.35mm, so it need to be 0.5-0.8mm space. Outline I recomended 0.5-0.8mm. The outline cutter is quite accurate, but it leaves a ~0.2 mm notch where it enters or exits. But even if the milling cutter or V-cut touches the track, this does not mean that there will be a short circuit to the base of the board in that place. But this can be dangerous if you do not use transformer type of led drivers, but throttle power supplies. I prefer to use transformer ones, they are safer. – marks: version, date in format № of the day and year (yes, someday people will develop to a 5-day working week), size of the board, quantity and types of leds, scheme (for example 4P3S), nominal costs of the money (Grower) based on ready pcbs (copper, or cheapest aluminium 1.6mm 1oz and etc)
1. Where ordering PCBs and Stencil?
- I used allpcb, but I do not like it anymore =( I back to my previous manufacturer in China. You can contact with him by email hq.niu[D0G]pcbsmart.com
- Stencil in the same place, but in the jlcpcb some chipper (under 4000 holes to 290×190mm space 380×280mm size with framework)
2. What parameters?
- Stencil 0.08mm thick much better than 0.1mm, costs additional ~1.5$
- PCBs parameters what I recommended: – 2oz (ordinary copper layer is 1oz = 1.37mils = 0.0348mm) – 2mm of the aluminium base (ordinary 1.6mm) – Heat Conductivity parameter 2w (ordinary 1w, but I think that they use every time 2w boards) – Surface Finish: HASL Lead Free! (without lead! Because it will crashed with 138° soldering paste) -Mask: ultra white (high reflectivity) mask (it is much white than ordinary, ordinary white seems like gray if compare it) – no V-cut or add additional 0.3mm in the each sides (blade is ~0.6mm)
3. How to solder leds.
- I use thermal table 946C+ It is cheap, but shipping can cost much
- First time I was soldering on an iron. Just use copper or aluminium buffer plate. And set minimal possible temperature (145-150° if Sn42Bi58) for your solder.
- I use 138° lead free solder paste Sn42Bi58

It already has the right flux. It should be stored in the refrigerator. And preferably in 2 or 5 ml glass syringes. With such syringes, it is convenient to use it

The oxidized paste leaves a lot of dark lumps that do not melt. This paste is better not to use.
- It is necessary to solder without sudden cooling and heating to prevent cracking of the solder of the LED and solder of the his crystal.

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

Edited by: SunLike on 03/22/2021 - 05:00
SunLike
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I will add info later

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https://t.me/sunlikenews

Agro
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Your choice of solder alloy is unusual…care to elaborate about it?

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Agro wrote:
Your choice of solder alloy is unusual…care to elaborate about it?

Sn42Bi58
It is low temperature 138°(so, you need only 145-150°) and it is not so toxic like with lead (I hope)

Its disadvantages:
- It’s not as soft as lead. I hope that this is not a problem, because it is designed for LEDs and I slowly cool the finished boards.
- It is also poorly stored. But I believe that I found a solution in using a refrigerator, glass syringes, and oxygen scavenger bags (for can, not for syringes)

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

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Maybe it would be possible to make a more efficient and higher cri LT1 with a similar board

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Maybe it would be possible to make a more efficient and higher cri LT1 with a similar board

you mean Sofirn BLF LT1 ? мощный и яркий кемпинговый фонарь с 4 аккумуляторами 18650 (powerful and bright camping lantern with 4 18650 batteries)

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https://t.me/sunlikenews

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Yep, it currently uses 8 LH351Ds, 4 of each colour, but it shouldn’t be too much trouble to swap them for something SUNLIKE.

More emitters= higher efficiency/less heat and softer, more diffuse light and less glare

This thing https://budgetlightforum.com/node/44923

I’m sure several people would buy a replacement mcpcb with sunlike emitters on it that could be swapped it for higher performance.

It would need to be a 2 channel board, one for warmer LEDs and one for cooler ones.

The emitters will be given about 3V

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Yep, it currently uses 8 LH351Ds, 4 of each colour, but it shouldn’t be too much trouble to swap them for something SUNLIKE.

More emitters= higher efficiency/less heat and softer, more diffuse light

It need to be changes to 3v sunlikes, so only 2835 SOL leds. I think ~16pcs or 12+12

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

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Is there anything a little cooler and a little warmer? One channel of around 5000K and one channel around 2000K.

What cct emitters does sunlike have?

More emitters would help remove this pattern in the LT1 and make it more pleasant to use.

12+12 sounds awesome but how much would it cost?

Each channel should be able to handle 2.5A divided by 12 emitters = Each LED needs to be able to take at least 200+ mA

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Is there anything a little cooler and a little warmer? One channel of around 5000K and one channel around 2000K.

What cct emitters does sunlike have?

More emitters would help remove this pattern in the LT1 and make it more pleasant to use.

SOL2835 3v I have all of them in stock: 2700, 3000, 3200, 4000, 5000, 5600k

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

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Sorry, I am editing my previous posts. Do you have the data sheet for them so we can see how much power they consume and other characteristics?

Edit: I found this link to your website saying 0.15A so ideally if we could get something like 16-18 of each emitter?

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
12+12 sounds awesome but how much would it cost?

Each channel should be able to handle 2.5A divided by 12 emitters = Each LED needs to be able to take at least 200+ mA

0.3$ per 1 pcs
http://sunlikelamp.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=80_82&produc...

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https://t.me/sunlikenews

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Do you have data or a datasheet of output and voltage/amperage?

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Do you have data or a datasheet of output and voltage/amperage?

yes

SOL2835 0.5W (I think that it is 0.4w or lower in real)

SOL2835SXX-0.5W-V02.pdf


BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

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Do you have the specific bin of your 2700K and 5000K emitters?

I’m not too knowledgeable regarding the tints but I understand these are a tad bit green but tint mixing would definitely help with that. Could someone more knowledgeable than me pass some judgement?

@BelMORDOR
How do you feel about arranging a group buy for a LT1 replacement emitter mcpcb board? 2700K and 5000K emitters. Maybe 12*2700k and 12*5000K or even 16*2700k+12*5000k since the 5000k are naturally brighter.

We would be able to figure out how many we can put on once we get into the board designing phase.

If this comes to fruition, we’ll have a list of people interested, likely you (since you are experienced ) would design, test, and assemble the boards, and then we would buy them from your shop and install it into our LT1s.

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Do you have the specific bin of your 2700K and 5000K emitters? I’m not too knowledgeable regarding the tints but I understand these are a tad bit green but tint mixing would definitely help with that. Could someone more knowledgeable than me pass some judgement?

@BelMORDOR
How do you feel about arranging a group buy for a LT1 replacement emitter mcpcb board? 2700K and 5000K emitters. Maybe 12*2700k and 12*5000K or even 16*2700k+12*5000k since the 5000k are naturally brighter.

We would be able to figure out how many we can put on once we get into the board designing phase.


about bin I do not know =(

But in TRI-T (3-R) technology (violet crystals) brightest of all CCTs almost the same, so quantity must be 12+12 or 16+16 or etc

But with mixing I have many results with spectrums in my telegram
like this:
(Sorry for PPFD, but in PG200N fast results only with it, I will try to cut images some later)
mixing SOL COB in SunLike13SS+ and 14SS++ (2200-2800-4000-4700-5900k)

my video review (RU)

2250k

2250+4000k

4000k

4000+5600k

5600k (in this batch not so good spectrum as in the previous )

2250+5600k

SunLikeSMART12 3000———5000k SunLike SAW 3030 6v

Reviews by Maukka:
SunLike Smart LED Bulb Zigbee
SunLike Smart LED Bulb Flicker
Sunlike Smart LED Bulb flicker DATA

my video review (RU)

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

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This looks very promising.

1. What do you estimate the final price of an assembled 16+16 2700k/5000k board you want to charge is? We should be able to get at least 50 orders if the price is reasonable. 100+ orders shouldn’t be hard if the price is really good.

2. Is something even warmer like 2000k available?

3. Since it’s just a flat board, is cheaper shipping available? Every dollar counts since the lantern itself was not that expensive. Ultimately this isn’t too much of a problem because shipping here in Canada is cheap. I can even just get a big box of them and send them out for a few dollars a package.

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
This looks very promising.

1. What do you estimate the final price of an assembled 16+16 2700k/5000k board you want to charge is? We should be able to get at least 50 orders if the price is reasonable. 100+ orders shouldn’t be hard if the price is really good.

2. Is something even warmer like 2000k available?

3. Since it’s just a flat board, is cheaper shipping available? Every dollar counts since the lantern itself was not that expensive. Ultimately this isn’t too much of a problem because shipping here in Canada is cheap. I can even just get a big box of them and send them out for a few dollars a package.

1. What is size of pcb?
I think it will be cost ~0.75-1$ per 1pcs if ordering 100-150pcs with all my specifications (I mean 2mm 2oz 2w lead free ultra white mask)

I will take 1.5$ for soldering, you can check it here
But yes, it is with my leds with my retail price

2. No, smd 2000 1800 2250k is not possible. I placed special order to SmartEcoLighting to 2000(1000)pcs 6w 2250k COB leds. Also duv will be too negative (you can find it in the result of mixing 2250k+5600k)
So, best choice will be 2700+5000k or 3000+5000k or 3200+5000k or +4000k
Oh.. to much options.. But I can solder all of them Cash

3. Shipping from Belarus by tracking small packets same cheap like from China
4$ for 60g
BelPost calculator here

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

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Could you make a few prototypes before the production version is finalized so we can observe and the difference this board would make?

“I’ve started an interest gathering thread here”: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77055

2250K definitely not possible then? Tint mixing shouldn’t be a problem because it can be mixed with something warmer like 4000k

If not 2250K, would anything lower warmer than 2700K be possible?

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Could you make a few prototypes before the production version is finalized so we can observe and the difference this board would make?

“I’ve started an interest gathering thread here”: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77055

2250K definitely not possible then? Tint mixing shouldn’t be a problem because it can be mixed with something warmer like 4000k

If not 2250K, would anything lower warmer than 2700K be possible?


No, only 2700k. You can get ~2600k by using poorly transparent diffuser

If you worry about blue, so

p.s. for prototyping I need to know sizes

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The Bedtime Bulb had issues. Second, I don’t feel the spectrum of that lamp is really world leading, or something that’s really worthy of an international standard. The overlay of of an incandescent lamp in figure 3 shows the Sunlike as being on par to slightly worse in terms of blue. I want better then stock incandescent. I also want warm light that looks like a flame or a dimmed incandescent. 2700K dimmed is not warm enough for me.

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cetary wrote:
The Bedtime Bulb had issues. Second, I don’t feel the spectrum of that lamp is really world leading, or something that’s really worthy of an international standard. The overlay of of an incandescent lamp in figure 3 shows the Sunlike as being on par to slightly worse in terms of blue. I want better then stock incandescent. I also want warm light that looks like a flame or a dimmed incandescent. 2700K dimmed is not warm enough for me.

so, only 2250k with 35v COB LED Big Smile

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
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About prototyping PCB for BLF LT1 only here — https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77055

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews