Project: SUNLIKE LT1 board (Option for 660nm Red)

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SunLike
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Finally..
v.0.99

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Sunnysunsun
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Looks good from my preliminary look at it! This will be a metal core, non DTP pcb right?

SunLike
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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Looks good from my preliminary look at it! This will be a metal core, non DTP pcb right?

1.6mm aluminium 2oz pcb

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staticx57
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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Looks good from my preliminary look at it! This will be a metal core, non DTP pcb right?

Sunlike does not have a thermal pad so no way to do DTP
Sunnysunsun
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staticx57 wrote:
Sunnysunsun wrote:
Looks good from my preliminary look at it! This will be a metal core, non DTP pcb right?
Sunlike does not have a thermal pad so no way to do DTP

The aluminum back will be enough.

I wasn’t expecting it to be DTP and with this many LEDs it doesn’t need it, but I think it can be done in something like the LT1. The head of the LT1 is electrically isolated from the body isn’t it? Theoretically it would be possible to be use the (+) pad as a dtp into the head but I think but there’s no point since the head is already at a limit heat dissipation wise with its lack of fins.

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DTP is for leds with low thermal resistance and begins to matter at over 2A per led. In this setup the leds get just 100, maybe 200mA, and their internal thermal resistance is larger than the thermal resistance of the dielectric layer, so with DTP the biggest bottleneck is still there, inside the led.

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ready! v.1.00 Hat

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Another LT1 user previously pointed out something odd about the stock board. From the photo SunLike shared of his stock board, I now see this is common:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1761711#comment-1761711

The LT1 stock boards have a labeling error

Look at the solder point labeled “WW”. Notice that the masked copper layer from there goes to the 5000K LED’s. And the solder point labeled “NW” goes to the 2700K LED’s.

Assuming Sofirn hooked them up per the labels, I think the consequence is minor – the normal ramping behavior would be reversed, but you’d never know, because the same button sequence just alternates directions, and I don’t think it affects auto-tint, either.

The one function known to be affected is if you wanted to bridge a different number or 7135 chips on either channel, such as to make the normally dimmer warm white output match the neutral white output.

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iamlucky13 wrote:
Another LT1 user previously pointed out something odd about the stock board. From the photo SunLike shared of his stock board, I now see this is common:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1761711#comment-1761711

The LT1 stock boards have a labeling error

Look at the solder point labeled “WW”. Notice that the masked copper layer from there goes to the 5000K LED’s. And the solder point labeled “NW” goes to the 2700K LED’s.

Assuming Sofirn hooked them up per the labels, I think the consequence is minor – the normal ramping behavior would be reversed, but you’d never know, because the same button sequence just alternates directions, and I don’t think it affects auto-tint, either.

The one function known to be affected is if you wanted to bridge a different number or 7135 chips on either channel, such as to make the normally dimmer warm white output match the neutral white output.

It makes absolutely no difference!
1. I can solder leds anywhere I need. I mean WW to CW or to WW line.
2. Customer can solder WW wire to CW or to WW line.
3. Flashlight have a mirror control. No difference WW+CW or CW+WW

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iamlucky13
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SunLike wrote:
iamlucky13 wrote:
Another LT1 user previously pointed out something odd about the stock board. From the photo SunLike shared of his stock board, I now see this is common:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1761711#comment-1761711

The LT1 stock boards have a labeling error

Look at the solder point labeled “WW”. Notice that the masked copper layer from there goes to the 5000K LED’s. And the solder point labeled “NW” goes to the 2700K LED’s.

Assuming Sofirn hooked them up per the labels, I think the consequence is minor – the normal ramping behavior would be reversed, but you’d never know, because the same button sequence just alternates directions, and I don’t think it affects auto-tint, either.

The one function known to be affected is if you wanted to bridge a different number or 7135 chips on either channel, such as to make the normally dimmer warm white output match the neutral white output.

It makes absolutely no difference!
1. I can solder leds anywhere I need. I mean WW to CW or to WW line.
2. Customer can solder WW wire to CW or to WW line.
3. Flashlight have a mirror control. No difference WW+CW or CW+WW

That’s what I thought, but it seemed worth bringing up before the boards get made, just in case I was overlooking anything.

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Any updates?

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FlashPilot wrote:
Any updates?

I still did not ordered it. I am going to design another pcbs for another projects. And I will order pcbs and stencil to all of them. I hope 2-4 weeks to order. And about 1-3 weeks to get it to my warehouse in China and 1-1.5 moth to received it here Hat

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Xylnas
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How is the project going?

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And how is SunLike going? The current situation in his home country will not be ideal for having a business..

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We will just sit back and hope for the best for him and see what and when things shake out.

Marc E
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Just stumbled across this thread am am definitely interested in two boards, i just need to figure out what LEDs i want and what i need to do.

I actually have experience of a Sunlike 3500K LED, Djozz kindly sent me some that he tested here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/66275 .
I only have the one currently in use, installed behind a TIR in a Jetbeam Jet-1MK, but it is one of my favourite LEDs and i believe this is down to the lack of peakiness in the blue part of the visible spectrum which has lead me to believe that most times when i wanted a warmer LED i actually wanted less peakiness rather than less blue in general. I’m actually keen to know what the cooler versions look like.

I can’t say this with any certainty but it’s possible that in some cases the warmth people are looking for in a 2000k LED is actually there in a 2700K LED without a blue peak. I’d be interested to know if anyone else feels the same.

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An update: I had forgotten about this up until now but the other day I sent an email to LampMan. LampMan has ordered the boards and he says they should get to him in mid September. He apologizes for how long it has taken.

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I finally found the button on the top of the page at sunlikelamp.com to show English text and selected the 18+18, 4000k & 2700K, with soldered LEDs, but the add to cart button does not work.
I did disable all my add blocking on that site, but it still doesn’t work. Tried a different browser and it still doesn’t work.

MtnDon
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Strange, it loaded one to the shopping cart for me just now

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It is working for me too, maybe try a different browser?

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I wonder if I could just purchase the bare PCBs and solder my own E21As onto it. Looks like the pads might actually be compatible albeit a bit larger. I’d like to do something with a larger CCT range; possibly down to 2200K or even 2000K.

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Yes, you can get the bare board.

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I got it to work.

When I click the Add To Cart button, that button moves down, away from my mouse pointer, and I have to continue holding down my mouse button and move the pointer so it’s on top of the Add To Cart button, then release the mouse button.

Now I’m waiting for an email with Paypal instructions. I’m not clear on the total amount to pay and which currency to select.

Edit: instructions received, Paypal sent.

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Hello. I just find 2 new orders today. And I already send 2 emails with paypal data.

Some days ago I finally ordered pcbs. It was 4 projects. For LT1 it will be 1.6mm 100pcs

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Sorry for I am so late, too much orders (not LT1 pcb), and not so much orders for LT1. about 20-25 now

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also I need upgrade all my Grow LED lamps

GB22 will be like quantum board, but better

- it is with led driver
- 5 types: – 100% white samsung LM30b(h); – LM301b(h) with 660nm and 450nm with switch (GB22S); SunLike 3030 6v; SunLikePLUS 5050 (with uv and IR); StarLike®

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Sorry if this is an obvious answer to most people here…
But does this board & LED component include the driver as well, such that all one needs to do is desolder the original component and solder in this replacement? No thermal paste required?

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