FREEME ✌ LUMINTOP FWAA Andúril 2 14500 Flashlight Deals - CL2 Bundle Deal

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TheAuditor
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Just received mine, 219c and a battery. What an excellent piece of kit it is too. Definitely in for a brass or copper version. I will also get an sst20 version as well

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TMaxxJJ
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Just got home from work to find a package containing my two (3000k and 4000k 219c). Very nice little lights, smaller than I was expecting! I can see this being my new EDC, I just really wish they would have made the clip deep carry! Hopefully they’ll come out with one later, along with a SS bezel that I’ll inevitably buy.

TheAuditor
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TMaxxJJ wrote:
Just got home from work to find a package containing my two (3000k and 4000k 219c). Very nice little lights, smaller than I was expecting! I can see this being my new EDC, I just really wish they would have made the clip deep carry! Hopefully they’ll come out with one later along with a SS bezel that I’ll inevitably buy.

It is so small! Really pleased with mine. Had to order another.

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zoulas
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Robin Dobbie wrote:
zoulas wrote:
Mark M wrote that from any power level it drops to 100 lumens.
Lets get back to figuring out how an SP10S is doing 800lm for 37 minutes at room temperature and any 14500. According to "TexasAce's test of the LH351D":https://budgetlightforum.com/node/57784 the emitter is drawing 6.5 watts at 922lm. If we assume 100% driver efficiency, and a 87% reflector efficiency, that's around 800lm out the front. We would need a 6.5Wh battery to do that for an hour or about a 4Wh to do that for 37 minutes. Again, assuming 100% driver efficiency... Sofirn's 14500 delivers just over 2.3Wh at the current necessary, and the Vapcell H10 is just over 3Wh.
Perhaps I am not explaining it or I am not reading it correctly. I do not find going from 1900 lumens to 100 lumens with nothing in the middle acceptable. I mention the Sofirn light as a comparison because it seem to not only have quite acceptable turbo run time but also several mid level run times.

 

This is the chart I was referring to:

 

https://imgur.com/jww57Mj

 

 

Mark M
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It does ramp down like every other Anduril light. If you dislike it won’t hold at 500 lumens because the lack of higher amperage current regulation and host heat limits then this is not the light for you.

zoulas
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I am simply comparing the characteristics of this light to other similar lights. If find it to be more utilitarian to have some more usable mid power levels. That’s all. Nothing angry about that.

Mark M
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My comment was poorly worded so I edited it. I will say that when I was tailstanding the light and ceiling bouncing I would have swore it was at least 200 lumen, it has a nice optic for that it seems.

zoulas wrote:
I am simply comparing the characteristics of this light to other similar lights. If find it to be more utilitarian to have some more usable mid power levels. That’s all. Nothing angry about that.

I have an early fireflies e07 that has the similar behavior because the driver is FET+1/FET+3.

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asdqqq
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zoulas wrote:

Robin Dobbie wrote:
zoulas wrote:
Mark M wrote that from any power level it drops to 100 lumens.
Lets get back to figuring out how an SP10S is doing 800lm for 37 minutes at room temperature and any 14500. According to TexasAce’s test of the LH351D the emitter is drawing 6.5 watts at 922lm. If we assume 100% driver efficiency, and a 87% reflector efficiency, that’s around 800lm out the front. We would need a 6.5Wh battery to do that for an hour or about a 4Wh to do that for 37 minutes. Again, assuming 100% driver efficiency… Sofirn’s 14500 delivers just over 2.3Wh at the current necessary, and the Vapcell H10 is just over 3Wh.
Perhaps I am not explaining it or I am not reading it correctly. I do not find going from 1900 lumens to 100 lumens with nothing in the middle acceptable. I mention the Sofirn light as a comparison because it seem to not only have quite acceptable turbo run time but also several mid level run times.

 


This is the chart I was referring to:


 


https://imgur.com/jww57Mj


 


 


You are not reading the chart correctly. Read up on the ANSI standard for flashlights. The time listed is how long it can maintain 10% of the initial output. So if a light starts out at 1000 lumens and then drops to 100 lumens after a minute, and then stays at 100 lumens for an hour, it can then claim over an hour runtime at the 1000 lumen level.

Wow, that’s not helpful and misleading you might be thinking. Yep. That’s why most of the flashlight makers use it. Makes the lights look so much better than they are to the uninformed.

Bottom line, you need to look at a runtime graph to find out how a flashlight actually performs over time. And generally speaking, the smaller the light, the lower the sustainable output is going to be.

Mark M
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No doubt this host could sustain more than 100 lumen thermally, but space constraints for the driver I am sure are another factor. When someone tears one apart we can judge the modding potential.

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Robin Dobbie wrote:
zoulas wrote:
The SofirnSP10S will do the following:

37 Minutes (thats minutes not seconds) 800lumens on Turbo

At what temperature? Intuitively I was like, that doesn’t make sense, but I looked at runtime charts anyway and they make a smidge more sense. https://1lumen.com/review/sofirn-sp10s/

This. Basically the sp10s can’t maintain 800 lumens for more than a few seconds.

The only truly stable output it can maintain looks to be 145 lumens, which is not too far off the FWAA. I would expect them to be similar in what they can maintain due to similar size and limited opportunity for heatsinking.

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Mark M wrote:
No doubt this host could sustain more than 100 lumen, but space constraints for the driver I am sure are another factor. When someone tears one apart we can judge the modding potential.

I suspect space for the driver actually isn’t the problem. Fet+1 drivers can be made very tiny. It’s quite possible to make a 15mm one with the same capabilities of a 20mm one. You can even buy them that way from Mountain Electronics.

The main things reducing output:

  • AA-sized cell. The latest 14500s are very good. Almost as good as the best high-drain 18350 in capacity. But this is still far less power than you get compared to an 18650.
  • Emitters. None of the available emitter choices is as high output as XPL-HI. I expect a modder could easily swap to XPL HI however.
  • Heat. This is probably the main reason output goes down so quickly. The host is tiny and has no heatsink fins. There probably isn’t much mass to absorb heat at all. The head will likely rapidly overheat causing the driver to reduce output. If you try a runtime test in front of a large fan, you’ll probably see much more stable output.

Personally, I’m fine with having such short output. Every light is a compromise. This one is designed for small size rather than large thermal mass.

Mark M
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If the IMR chemistry can support 1900 lumen turbo with the FET it can handle 2-3 amps just fine for current regulation.

The 3 SST20 are putting out 100 lumen when it steps down it is likely 350ma less with losses to the LEDs from one 7135. The flashlight is not even warm when ran at 100 lumen for a few minutes, heat isn’t a limiting factor at 100 lumen. The aggressive step down is partly due to the configuration of anduril in this model and driver topology. If it had 3× 7135 I bet you could get more than 100 lumen out of it, sustained.

zoulas
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asdqqq wrote:
zoulas wrote:

Robin Dobbie wrote:
zoulas wrote:
Mark M wrote that from any power level it drops to 100 lumens.
Lets get back to figuring out how an SP10S is doing 800lm for 37 minutes at room temperature and any 14500. According to TexasAce’s test of the LH351D the emitter is drawing 6.5 watts at 922lm. If we assume 100% driver efficiency, and a 87% reflector efficiency, that’s around 800lm out the front. We would need a 6.5Wh battery to do that for an hour or about a 4Wh to do that for 37 minutes. Again, assuming 100% driver efficiency… Sofirn’s 14500 delivers just over 2.3Wh at the current necessary, and the Vapcell H10 is just over 3Wh.
Perhaps I am not explaining it or I am not reading it correctly. I do not find going from 1900 lumens to 100 lumens with nothing in the middle acceptable. I mention the Sofirn light as a comparison because it seem to not only have quite acceptable turbo run time but also several mid level run times.

 


This is the chart I was referring to:


 


https://imgur.com/jww57Mj


 


 


You are not reading the chart correctly. Read up on the ANSI standard for flashlights. The time listed is how long it can maintain 10% of the initial output. So if a light starts out at 1000 lumens and then drops to 100 lumens after a minute, and then stays at 100 lumens for an hour, it can then claim over an hour runtime at the 1000 lumen level.

Wow, that’s not helpful and misleading you might be thinking. Yep. That’s why most of the flashlight makers use it. Makes the lights look so much better than they are to the uninformed.

Bottom line, you need to look at a runtime graph to find out how a flashlight actually performs over time. And generally speaking, the smaller the light, the lower the sustainable output is going to be.

This is a good explanation and I do appreciate it. It is very misleading. If it was an American company doing this, there would be lawsuits up the wazoo.

JaredM
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Still no pictures or confirmation of the driver configuration? Kind of an important detail around here.

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Order placed for 1 LUMINTOP FWAA-Nichia 219C 3000K and 4000K… Thanks! Thumbs Up

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Got mine today. Very nice! Heats up quick with a Vapcell H10 – 15-20secs too hot to hold. Very happy with my FW3A but haven’t purchased any other FWxx form factor until now. Will keep this in my pocket for a few weeks at least

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BOO5TED
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That’s actually REALLY funny lol.

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nobody
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Just received mine. No issues with the workmanship that I’ve seen yet. I went with the nichia 3000k and really like it. Hope they make the SS bezel. It’s hard to get a good grip on it, but I like the size. 

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Mine’s been stuck at the airport for the last 4 days. I assume it’s going through customs. Hopefully it will clear soon. Crazy

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Firelight2 wrote:
Mine’s been stuck at the airport for the last 4 days. I assume it’s going through customs. Hopefully it will clear soon. Crazy

probably due to corona.. things will take some extra time to clear. maybe they have less ppl working now.

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Interested.

Thank you. 

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BOO5TED
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Both of mine came in this afternoon along with the Vapcell H10s, Nichia 3k and SST20 4K. Man these are much smaller than I figured, they’re awesome.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

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The mailman did me a solid today…wasn’t expecting it until maybe tomorrow. Happy to see the “bunny” snuck in the back door Wink .

Some quick observations:
The threads were pretty dry. Cleaned and lubed. Anduril 2 (yep), substantially different navigation than the straight up Anduril 1 I’m used to. Switch feels pretty solid. I got Nichia 4000k, great tint. Ain’t no lie this little puppy gets scorching hot in short order (Vapcell H10). 10-15 seconds on turbo will curl your hair. Haven’t had enough time to fiddle with the temp throttle, just calibrated base temp. I’m not getting the second flash/buzz to set the threshold. Overall I think it’s fairly impressive.

BOO5TED
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Been playing around with both of them for a while. These really are great little torches, one question though. In Anduril 2 is the sunset mode default time only 5 min? I know you can add time in 5 min increments. In the original version default was 60 min.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

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I received my FWAA sst20 4000k today, really happy with the light. The build quality and tail switch feel much better than my first batch FW3A. I can’t believe how small it is too! I’d definitely be in for a titanium or stainless steel FWAA if Lumintop wants to go that direction.

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Sunset Timer
------------

In the ramp mode or candle mode, it's possible to make the light turn
itself off after a while.

To activate the timer, go to the brightness you want and then use a 5H
action. Keep holding the button, and the light should blink once per
second. Each blink adds 5 minutes to the timer.

In ramp mode, it slowly dims until it's at the lowest level, then shuts
off. In candle mode, it stays at the same brightness until the final
minute, at which point it dims and dies out.

The user can change the brightness while the timer is active. If this
happens during the final few minutes, it also "bumps" the timer up to a
minimum of 3 minutes. So if it's getting really dim and you need a
little more time, you could do a 5H to add 5 minutes, or simply ramp up
to the desired brightness.

 

Credit: toykeeper | Source:http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril-manual.txt

 

BOO5TED wrote:
Been playing around with both of them for a while. These really are great little torches, one question though. In Anduril 2 is the sunset mode default time only 5 min? I know you can add time in 5 min increments. In the original version default was 60 min.

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