“REVIEW”: Lumintop FWAA – 14500 – Anduril 2 – Triple Nichia 4000K & 5000K [Pic Heavy]

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jon_slider
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here is a cut clip on a FW3A:

ArtieT59 wrote:
BOO5TED
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Basically exactly like that.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

Mkphc
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My problem is with the “soft retention”
Does this improve the ability for the clip to hold on better?

jon_slider
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Mkphc wrote:
My problem is with the “soft retention”
No, cutting the bend off wont increase the grip of the clip.

I agree the clip does not have strong retention. Maybe in the future there will be a better option. The clip location does not ride on any knurling, the grip is only against smooth surfaces. The clip is also not deep carry enough, for my liking.

you could try bending the clip to increase pressure, but it wont solve the lack of deep carry, and it will still be riding only on smooth surfaces of the light. So I dont think bending will produce meaningful change, but here is a visual for you to consider:

Meanwhile, Ive been entertained experimenting flipping the body (right pic), which I like. I also experimented flipping the clip (middle pic), which I also like, but the light wont turn on that way.

.

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Congrats on the new flashlight jon_slider Wink Seems like you have a nice piece there and I hope you enjoy it Wink

BTW, as for the clip, at least in the alu version, you can also use it under the bezel, I don’t know about the Cu version and other! Enjoy it Wink

Mkphc
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Thank you for a detailed reply
I have already preloaded the bend as much as I feel safe to (without bending excessively) and I feel like if I bend it any further I won’t be able to tighten the tail cap down without cross threading it
I LOVE the flashlight
I HATE the clip and am afraid or it popping out of my pocket and losing it
I’ll keep looking for an alternative solution
Thanks for all your help

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Mkphc wrote:
I HATE the clip and am afraid or it popping out of my pocket and losing it
I’ll keep looking for an alternative solution
I agree, and hope some accessories come along, including a better clip with deeper carry, and a glow gasket

suggestion to test
if you move the clip between the head and body (and if the light still turns on)
it will make the clip slightly more deep carry, but still not tight grip.

MascaratumB wrote:
as for the clip, at least in the alu version, you can also use it under the bezel, I don’t know about the Cu version and other! Enjoy it Wink

I would use the clip under the head, if it made contact, but no luck.

I stayed up late learning to set ceilings and floors.

1. My simple mode now has a ceiling of 200 lumens (72 steps down from 150), and 24 steps, just like an HDS. That max output is sustainable, does not trigger thermal step downs. I like this sustainable output option.

2. My advanced mode now has a ceiling of 550 lumens (50 clicks down from 150). also 24 steps. That max output is NOT sustainable, it triggers the 45C default thermal step down, and goes down to 90 lumens, sustained.. Not ideal.

3. I set manual memory to 10 lumens using my light meter (it is step 10 of 24)

4. Calibrated the thermosensor, am still using default 45C thermal step down.

5. Battery check is great, it reads 0.1v low, which I like. Im leaving voltage calibration stock.

6. To determing when Im in simple mode, I do a battery check, 3C from off. IF the battery check turns off after the first readout, the light is in Simple.. IF the batt check repeats in a loop, Im in advanced.

At this point, the practical difference between advanced and simple (besides ceiling), is that when I want to use a strobe to alert traffic, while crossing the street, I must be in advanced. I have strobe set to bike flasher, there is no strobe in simple.

I have zero interest in any of the candle and lighting modes.. random flickers and flashes really bother me.

.

FWAA Anduril2 non standard commands trivia:

1. the temperature config position in the menu, it comes 3rd, after battery check and beacon

2. in advanced, 2C gives ceiling, but a second 2C does not work to go to Turbo. I dont mind.. 1000+ lumens of Turbo for 3 seconds is not necessary for my application. Momentary Turbo is still available from Off with 2H

Here is an edited Lux Perpetua FWAA Anduril 2 UI flow chart:

I made 3 changes, in blue..
1. moved FWAA temp config to 3rd position
2. blocked out 2C to turbo in advanced, with a blue box
3. I put the number 3 instead of a 2, in the ceiling and floor config menu, for the step count

Im enjoying the FWAA very much, presently running in Simple Stepped mode with the body tube reversed (gives a better grip imo):

I painted some glow paint around the inside of the head (onto the plastic ring). It works, but a properly fitted glow gasket would be better.

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jon_slider wrote:
[…]
MascaratumB wrote:
as for the clip, at least in the alu version, you can also use it under the bezel, I don’t know about the Cu version and other! Enjoy it Wink

I would use the clip under the head, if it made contact, but no luck.
[…]
Im enjoying the FWAA very much, presently running in Simple Stepped mode with the body tube reversed (gives a better grip imo):

Sorry,, I guess I explained myself wrongly. When I meant under the bezel it was really under the bezel, not between the head and tube.

I am not sure if it can be done in the Cu version..
As for running it with the tube inverted, I tried to do it on mine but it doesn’t turn on. I guess it may be related to the internal tube, eventually.

I am glad you are liking it and that you “found” your optimal confirgurations for it Wink

BTW, will it receive some Nichias anytime soon? Wink

Mkphc
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Wow!!
Great idea!
I knew if I asked here. I’d get the right answer
The clip under the bezel REALLY gives it the retention needed
THANK YOU!!

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MascaratumB wrote:
When I meant under the bezel it was really under the bezel, not between the head and tube.

BTW, will it receive some Nichias anytime soon? Wink


thanks for the photo,
that option is a bezel up carry.. will think about it..

under the head would allow bezel down carry…

Have not decided what LED mod to use yet, the SST-20 is pretty nice as is.
before I decide…
Im waiting for azhu to restock 219b 3500k, which is slightly more pink than the SST:

hard to capture in a photo, the difference that I see with my eyes. The SST is slightly greener and cooler than the 3500k 219b.

The SST is not obviously green, like I feared. Its quite nice.

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Mkphc wrote:
Wow!!
Great idea!
I knew if I asked here. I’d get the right answer
The clip under the bezel REALLY gives it the retention needed
THANK YOU!!

Cool, glad it helped Wink It was an experience but I am actually fond of it too!

jon_slider wrote:

thanks for the photo,
that option is a bezel up carry.. will think about it..

under the head would allow bezel down carry…

Have not decided what LED mod to use yet, the SST-20 is pretty nice as is.
before I decide…
Im waiting for azhu to restock 219b 3500k, which is slightly more pink than the SST:

Yup, this option I’ve shown is not suitable for bezel down carry, it would need to be a longer clip for that.
I do like, though, that it won’t burn pockets since it is bezel/light up. It can activate accidentally, of course, given the switch can be pressed by things inside the pockets. There is no perfect solution with this clip Oops

Hum, I only have 2 lights with SST20, but I guess all of them will always have some green that the Nichias don’t have.
A 3500K Nichia will look great on that Cu version, so if you go for it, please show it to us then Wink Beer

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Mkphc wrote:
The clip under the bezel REALLY gives it the retention needed
THANK YOU!!

yay!
did putting the clip under the bezel, reduce the pressure on the lens?
(compromised water seal)

MascaratumB wrote:


Did you add an extra lens or O ring to make up the gap created by the clip lifting the bezel away from the optic?

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jon_slider wrote:
Mkphc wrote:
The clip under the bezel REALLY gives it the retention needed
THANK YOU!!

yay!
did putting the clip under the bezel, reduce the pressure on the lens?
(compromised water seal)

Did you add an extra lens or O ring to make up the gap created by the clip lifting the bezel away from the optic?


It does reduce the pressure, so it is advised to use an extra o-ring under the glass less (between that and the optic), or get a thicker lens Wink
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MascaratumB wrote:

As for running it with the tube inverted, I tried to do it on mine but it doesn’t turn on. I guess it may be related to the internal tube

yes
the internal tube has a lot of resistance to sliding towards either end

by tightening the tailcap onto the “head” (the flared end) of the body tube, with the clip installed, I was able to push the inner tube towards the “tail” (not flared). Now it works with the head on the flipped body. As pictured: (light is ON to show it works)

.

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Hey jon_slider, congrats on getting your first Anduril UI flashlight! And thanks so much for the comparative beam shot photos. I’ve got one of these on the way as well. Very encouraged by the emitter tint. I was worried there might be a greenish tinge but it’s obvious that it’s more golden in color. A nice pale golden that’s closer to neutral than it is to full-on warm. That’s pretty much what I’ve been looking for in an AA sized EDC. There’s also something nice about sleek copper like this, as opposed to chunky, busy designs.

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xevious wrote:
A nice pale golden that’s closer to neutral than it is to full-on warm.

exactly right, pale gold for the 4000k color temperature
and very neutral tint,

it is an overcast day, the SST-20 does not look green at all

and flipping the body is fun too Wink

all but the FWAA SST-20 4000k have sw45k mods

.

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info request for Customized Anduril 2 for FWAA

I would like to learn more about what is needed for me to be able to reflash the FWAA firmware

besides my own custom ceilings, I want to turn off the double blink in the ramp, and make the ramp half as fast.

can someone point me in the right direction..?

===
my custom FWAA settings wishlist

Anduril reflashing required:
(workaround is to use stepped mode)
double blink OFF
ramp speed 50%

Custom UI configurations:
advanced ceiling 90/150 (400 lumens)
simple ceiling: 78/150 (200 lumens)
thermal limit 40C
memory set to 15 lumens
hybrid memory set for 90 minutes
12 stepped modes

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I got notice that FWAA glow gaskets are available

despite the price, I was about to pay, but, there is no paypal option, so I have not followed through

maybe others will be interested…

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I’ve purchased multiple lights/items from Jared and never had issues. He’s awesome to deal with. He got burned once from paypal, that’s why he doesn’t accept it anymore.

That being said I already have two on the way lol.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

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BOO5TED wrote:
I already have two on the way lol.

congrats, the glow gaskets look very nice
Today I took the bezel off my FWAA, in order to paint glow onto the mcpcb.. I also polished the lens. Output went up 9% and there are no bad beam artifacts.

the previous coat of acrylic paint around the inner bezel (post 128), peeled right off when I removed the optic. No problem there.

(the pro photogirl I hired in my dreams, did not show, so I had to take my own blurry pics..)

the glow paint that peeled off the inner bezel, fits around the tail, so just for fun:

However, a tiny screw fell out of the driver. I put it back. I do not know if that free floating screw had anything to do with my Runaway Ramping issues with the FWAA, during assembly.

So far there have been 3 QC issues with my Cu FWAA

1. The screw fell out of the pill. now fixed
2. The retaining ring for the driver was halfway unscrewed. now fixed
3. One of the LEDs is dimmer than the others.. have not tried to fix it.. the light is still plenty bright, and the beam looks fine.

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jon_slider wrote:

Today I took the bezel off my FWAA, in order to paint glow onto the mcpcb.. I also polished the lens. Output went up 9%….

Jon, can you explain how you polished the lens? Think I’d like to try it on mine. Thanks.
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jon_slider wrote:
I got notice that FWAA glow gaskets are available

despite the price, I was about to pay, but, there is no paypal option, so I have not followed through

maybe others will be interested…


I really enjoy having a GITD optical insert in my FW3A so I’d like to pick up one for the FWAA at some point. I’m hoping that eventually Neal or other more established sellers will be offering them. I had seen someone buy an early GITD from a small time seller for the FW3A and it didn’t have good glow power. The green one I got from Neal is super bright.

Is it possible to put in a GITD o-ring around the perimeter of the optic?

Also you mentioned polishing the lens… do you mean the sapphire replacement that Neal is offering, or the original?

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I used Sunshine Cloth to polish the top of the plastic FWAA triple optic.

I put the sunshine cloth on a kleenex, on my desk, and holding the optic in my hand I rubbed it against the flat polishing cloth. A few strokes in different directions, including a few circles.. (few= 5-10 swipes.. )

I use Sunshine Cloth to polish my Ti lights … works very well for copper too.


.

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jon_slider wrote:
I used Sunshine Cloth to polish the top of the plastic FWAA triple optic.

I put the sunshine cloth on a kleenex, on my desk, and holding the optic in my hand I rubbed it against the flat polishing cloth. A few strokes in different directions, including a few circles.. (few= 5-10 swipes.. )

I use Sunshine Cloth to polish my Ti lights … works very well for copper too.


.


Nice work! I’ve not tried the Sunshine Cloth before. Is it less abrasive than something like the Cape Cod polishing cloth?
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xevious wrote:
Is it less abrasive than something like the Cape Cod polishing cloth?
I do not know the relative abrasiveness. Cod Cloth ingredients seem to include mineral spirits and vanilla.. Sunshine cloth has neither volatiles nor aromatics.

I like the Sunshine yellow because it works faster than red rouge, while still leaving a very high gloss polish, not too abrasive.

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I made a short 2.5 minute video including a beamshot comparison of the sst20 4000k version of this light vs the aaa sofirn C01s (sst20) lumintop tool aa (4500k) Emisar D4 (sst 20 4000k) and the emisar D4V2 (XPL-Hi 5000k)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ueyKfGWGMvo

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Jonathan! And whomever else… slice those ssts you’ll get lower duv and the little guy won’t hurt much losing a little output, it’s a little over powered anyway?? Not complaining, just noting. (I’ve heard slicing sst20 lowers output? Mine might’ve but not by alot). I can only imagine how hot a ti gets…

Anyway, i have no regrets doing it. Slice high to avoid the wires, it’ll still get a duv shift down in a very pleasing manner. And tighten up beam (slightly/ relatively). It went from a novelty light for me to carrying often because i can use at lower levels and still like the tint.

And thanks y’all, I’ve had good lurk reading in this thread, that resulted with another flashlight. Funny how that happens…

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Jchang76 wrote:
slice those ssts you’ll get lower duv

maukka agrees w you,
glad youre enjoying using the light

technically tint is still above bbl after shaving sst-20
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/62195?page=4
but, I dont mind the stock tint of my 4000k SST-20 FWAA
Ive become more open minded recently.. lol
I like how it renders colors

other results of shaving
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1699687#comment-1699687

fwiw, I “tightened up the beam” (but failed to document the change), by polishing the outside of the Tir on a yellow jewelers rouge cloth.. now there is a hint of a hotspot, and its a “bit” (undocumented), throwyer..

Ive been carrying it a lot.. its my new hot item

actually, I dont use Turbo, I set ceiling to 400 lumens, and 40C thermal limit..

the copper handles the heat great, I can actually hold Turbo in my hand for 10 seconds, but thats not why I like the light.. it has great hand feel, and Im enjoying using it with 12 steps.. dont care for the ramping.. that double flash bugs the crap out of me

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Yes, very balanced and good cri! Your 219bs will miss you.

I am planning on copying the mild tir polish. I thought to try acrylic scratch polish…or the cloth you speak of. I’ll prob be to ambitious, we’ll see.

That tir is so shallow i can see my slice line through it ( not in the center, doesn’t show up on beam at least so far as i can tell
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jon_slider wrote:
that double flash bugs the crap out of me

I think I understand what the flashes are when ramping… correct me if I am wrong, ramping from lowest brightness, it’s the 7135, first flash ramping up is FET, then the last flash at the highest level indicates direct drive…
my question is, were the flashes an intentional design choice? Or unavoidable?

I don’t particularly like the flashes, but I like to know where the PWM begins to avoid it when using as a room lamp for long periods, though I wonder what the feel of the smooth ramping would be without the flashes.

Only other comment I have (and it’s the wrong thread for it, but I just don’t have the energy to post much anymore, and I have only occasionally lurked every few weeks), is that had I seen the Anduril2 change in development to have TWO ways to get to that confounded 5C momentary mode, I would have requested against it… I liked manual memory, and now it is buried behind 10H from on rather than just 5C from on. I don’t like that, but I am getting used to auto memory I guess.

***
I haven’t posted in some time… got a job is all. Exhausting. I don’t remember it being so tiring to work FT, say, even 6 years ago. I just read that new report about metabolism dropping quickly as one ages… must be that. Anyway, missed you all, and will continue missing you Smile

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