Astrolux FT03 SST40 2400lm NarsilM v1.3 USB-C

40 posts / 0 new
Last post
Bart1080
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 06/03/2021 - 20:18
Posts: 37
Location: Australia

Thanks, Sarge.
I’d edited my post to include the test of the unprotected cell after zoulas responded.

I can confirm the tube is in the correct way…and always has been. Good to know though as I didn’t realise the anodise will affect the connection.
I’II take a closer look at the connections and clean as suggested. Will see how it all goes from there.

Out of interest, is there an advantage of protected vs unprotected cells for torch applications?

sarge12
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 5 days ago
Joined: 05/31/2020 - 08:13
Posts: 319

Protected cells are mainly needed in multi-cell lights, especially in parallel. In a parallel configuration with all batteries sharing a common + and – post, an internal short in 1 battery can cause an extreme amperage draw on the other batteries even with the switch off. It is possible for them to even catch fire, and a flashlights overcurrent protection can’t provide that protection, because they are connected together before any switch or protection. In almost all single cell lights, the flashlights circuitry will provide some protection. If you watch videos on lithium ion batteries being shorted by connecting a wire from the + to the -, they can be a bit dangerous. I will add that an internal short like that is somewhat rare, and usually lithium ion issues are caused by using ICR batteries or batteries of too low continuous amp ratings for the device. Protected cells are usually just a waste of money for a single cell flashlight, and the protection circuits will open between 10-15 amps so can’t be used for some higher lumen lights. The main reason for them is you are basically turning them all into a bigger battery in parallel. As far as the end cap anodise, that would be an insulator on that light. The negative battery contacts the spring, which is soldered to the brass contact then travels through the aluminum tube to the head. If you unscrew the tailcap even a little, it will increase the resistence in the ground. Even an eigth of a turn will totally disconnect the ground and any dirt or corrosion on the unanodized part of the tube will add resistence which can lower the current to the driver. It would also add resistance to the USB-C charging circuit. By the way ICR and IMR, and INR is describing the chemistry of the batteries, and ICR uses cobalt and can be very explosive…so use IMR or INR, which are safer. I use my batteries for vaping too, and no way I would have an ICR battery near my face knowingly.

sarge12
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 5 days ago
Joined: 05/31/2020 - 08:13
Posts: 319

I want to clarify that you do not want to remove aluminum when cleaning with sandpaper…very fine and not agressive. A pencil eraser can often work well also.

djozz
djozz's picture
Online
Last seen: 10 min 53 sec ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17869
Location: Amsterdam

Check the retaining ring of the driver, is it tight?

mortuus
mortuus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2014 - 09:33
Posts: 3054
Location: Sweden

shouldnt be issues running protected since the emitter dont draw much amps even on turbo.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

              つ ◕_◕ ༽つ

sarge12
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 5 days ago
Joined: 05/31/2020 - 08:13
Posts: 319

djozz wrote:
Check the retaining ring of the driver, is it tight?

Artiet59 covered that in post 9 of the thread. I think someone has covered about every possibility. The FT03 is a fairly simple light. It is extremely easy to miss seeing an already covered issue in our desire to help. Beyond what one of the members has covered…I know I have nothing else, and really think every possible issue has been posted. It still could be a bad driver, but I will say this. There is hardly any light I ever bought that gave as much bang for the buck as the Astrolux FT03 SST40-W, so it would be worth buying a second one to exchange parts to identify the issue. That might be the only sure way to narrow it down and 1 of those is not enough in my book. Feel the same about the lumintop tool aa 2.0. That astrolux was my first real thrower, and still the most meters of throw per dollar spent. I have the FT03s also, but it had a known focus issue and has never been worth the extra 100 dollars it cost. I have one of them with the 50.2 emmiter as well, but none in the line was worth having more than 1 of. I have 5 with the SST40-W emmiter. I am paticularly fond of LED throwers in general. I do not really chase the extreme lumen and auxillary colored LED lights as much. I have some, but usually only 1 of each. I also have a bunch of Sofirn C8G, and would have a bunch of the lumintop GT micro with the modified osram emmiters if I could find them in aluminum. I have 1 and 2 in brass. MF04, TN42, TN42 V2, Fireflies T9R, I have 1 each of and will have the wildfire soon. I have 2 of the Astrolux EA02, and many other throwers. I have nearly all except the insanely priced Olight’s as well. There are very few Sofirn brand lights not in my stash either. Sofirn is just a great quality for the money brand. Olight has extreme quality, but at a price. I only buy them on their flash sale bundles usually. If it is over 250 bucks for 1 flashlight, I do not own it.
sarge12
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 5 days ago
Joined: 05/31/2020 - 08:13
Posts: 319

Bart1080….did any of the suggestions lead to the problem? Is it fixed?

Bart1080
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 49 min ago
Joined: 06/03/2021 - 20:18
Posts: 37
Location: Australia

Hi all, Well, I ended up taking it all apart as it played up again. Followed the advice including checking the solder joints, tightened the rings, very lightly sanded the threaded end……and all in the nick of time I might add.
Had a storm go through taking the power, phones, internet, EFTPOS, petrol stations (no power, no Eftpos) and turned the area into a “cash” only society for 4 days Smile Have only just got power back on late this morning.

The torch worked flawlessly over the 4 days with both batteries and now very happy with it. Great opportunity to run it through its capabilities and get used to the standard functions – ramping, moonlight, turbo, get indicator light.
I’II definitely have to get another….for $45 Aussie really good value for money

Thanks all for your suggestions on troubleshooting the issue….I think it might need to be a standard process to “go over” any new LED light I get

sarge12
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 5 days ago
Joined: 05/31/2020 - 08:13
Posts: 319

Bart1080 wrote:
Hi all, Well, I ended up taking it all apart as it played up again. Followed the advice including checking the solder joints, tightened the rings, very lightly sanded the threaded end……and all in the nick of time I might add.
Had a storm go through taking the power, phones, internet, EFTPOS, petrol stations (no power, no Eftpos) and turned the area into a “cash” only society for 4 days Smile Have only just got power back on late this morning.

The torch worked flawlessly over the 4 days with both batteries and now very happy with it. Great opportunity to run it through its capabilities and get used to the standard functions – ramping, moonlight, turbo, get indicator light.
I’II definitely have to get another….for $45 Aussie really good value for money

Thanks all for your suggestions on troubleshooting the issue….I think it might need to be a standard process to “go over” any new LED light I get


Good…thanks for responding…nice to hear a success story. That aluminum edge under the endcap is both a feature and a possible issue. It allows even the slightest loosening to lock it out, but being even slightly loose or dirty locks it out.

Pages