It’s possible it’s using the sp36 firmware. Are fuse values still a thing on the attiny1616? Maybe something like CKDIV8 is making the ramp slow. I’ve had that issue with Lume1 drivers in the past. Any tips on changing fuse values using pymcuprog?
Edit: oops, I replied without checking for thread updates first. Glad it’s working!
Fuses are still a thing, but most of the settings can be done in firmware and don’t need manually setting if fuses. BOD (brown out detection) is an exception, but that wouldn’t affect ramp speed.
My thread here has some info on doing fuses with pymcuprog.
Could you try my hex file here? I would check your tk-attiny.h file too. At some point I changed between 5 MHz clock and 10 MHz, so it’s possible that it might be using an old setting.
How much is the driver size?
I would try upgrade on sc31pro host
The driver is 19mm, but I don’t see the point in swapping the driver when it can be flashed to Anduril 2.
the points are that Sc31pro driver haven’t regulated output, work with pwm and provide too much current for 3535 Leds at high modes. If I’m not wrong Sc21mini is regulated, no pwm and 1000lm max. Enought for lh351d or 519a powered by 18350 cell
the points are that Sc31pro driver haven’t regulated output, work with pwm and provide too much current for 3535 Leds at high modes. If I’m not wrong Sc21mini is regulated, no pwm and 1000lm max. Enought for lh351d or 519a powered by 18350 cell
I’m pretty sure the SC21 Pro driver is direct-drive as well. That small battery can’t provide a high enough current to damage the LED. Zeroair measured 2.5 A maximum.
I haven’t kept up with Anduril firmware for all the various lights. Hence the if so part of my post.
Since it doesn’t seem to be Anduril 2, we will have to wait for someone to compile one. At least we know anduril.2021-08-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex can be used to create an Anduril 2 firmware since Sofirn seemed to use their own version for this light
I haven’t kept up with Anduril firmware for all the various lights. Hence the if so part of my post.
Since it doesn’t seem to be Anduril 2, we will have to wait for someone to compile one. At least we know anduril.2021-08-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex can be used to create an Anduril 2 firmware since Sofirn seemed to use their own version for this light
I think what SammysHP is trying to say is that Sofirn should be using anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex since that is the latest official build of Anduril 2 that will work
gChart, any chance that you could design a Programming Key for the SC21 Pro? If I understand correctly, it only needs three pins, but the key has to be five pins wide: (GND) (VCC) (blank) (blank) (UPDI). Too bad Sofirn didn’t put them together so that your UPDI key could be used.
I haven’t kept up with Anduril firmware for all the various lights. Hence the if so part of my post.
Since it doesn’t seem to be Anduril 2, we will have to wait for someone to compile one. At least we know anduril.2021-08-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex can be used to create an Anduril 2 firmware since Sofirn seemed to use their own version for this light
I think what SammysHP is trying to say is that Sofirn should be using anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex since that is the latest official build of Anduril 2 that will work
I’m confused now
Adair21 wrote:
This entire time I’ve been trying anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex and getting the slow ramping, but I just tried anduril.2021-08-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex and it works!!
So it seems the latest Anduril 2 works but has problems?
So it seems the latest Anduril 2 works but has problems?
Look at post #207. I improperly erased the MCU and that was causing some odd issues. The latest Anduril 2 build works great after I did a factory reset.
Who do we contact at Sofirn to see if Sofirn can use this build for future lights?
Please no, there are more recent versions and Sofirn should talk to a dev (ToyKeeper) first.
Haven’t kept track of changes, but are there any fixes/additions that apply to the SC21 when using a newer version? If not it won’t matter using an older version.
Don’t recall if this was mentioned earlier; the TIRs Convoy/Simon sell for the S2+ also fit wonderfully in the SC21 without the glass lens and emitter gasket just as they do in the S2+. The head will screw down more for those who don’t need the warning label to line up
I grabbed a random beaded TIR from my stash, probably a 15deg, and honestly wish this were an option from factory, it’s great.
Don’t recall if this was mentioned earlier; the TIRs Convoy/Simon sell for the S2+ also fit wonderfully in the SC21 without the glass lens and emitter gasket just as they do in the S2+. The head will screw down more for those who don’t need the warning label to line up
I grabbed a random beaded TIR from my stash, probably a 15deg, and honestly wish this were an option from factory, it’s great.
New flashaholic here. I’m new to this hobby. I started out with a Nebo Torchy (wich is dangerous when you tend to walk around with ferrous metal shavings in your pockets), advanced to the SC21 5000k and just added a SC21 pro to the collection.
I flashed my light with anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616 according to Adair21s instructions. I soldered to the pads and used an FTDI breakout board, two resistors and a diode on a bread board for the flashing.
At first I had slow ramping. After a factory reset it started ramping normally.
Fiddeling with my light, I found out that the bezel isn’t glued (seems like they have skipped the glue on the green versions.)
That led me to order some TIR lenses from Convoy to do some experimenting.
At the same time I ordered an 2700k S2+ LH351D (I also have a 4000k SP36 BLF incoming). Into the rabbit hole I go.
> seems like they have skipped the glue on the green versions
I also had no glue on two green SP10.. a red one required heat to open.
Thanks. The automatic lockout was definitely worth the effort.
raccoon city:
Like Yngwie Malmsteen is the closest pronunciation for english speakers. I belive I read once that he changed from Yngve to Yngwie because no one could pronounce Yngve.
I know the D4v2 has different flashing pads. I have been able to flash the D4v2 with Hank’s adapter by simply using a steady hand and holding the pins down on the flashing pads.
Can I build a similar adapter and hold it down on the flashing pads? If so, any guide on how to build an adapter for this light? I wonder what Sofirn uses to flash firmware
Edit: oops, I replied without checking for thread updates first. Glad it’s working!
Fuses are still a thing, but most of the settings can be done in firmware and don’t need manually setting if fuses. BOD (brown out detection) is an exception, but that wouldn’t affect ramp speed.
My thread here has some info on doing fuses with pymcuprog.
Could you try my hex file here? I would check your tk-attiny.h file too. At some point I changed between 5 MHz clock and 10 MHz, so it’s possible that it might be using an old setting.
How do I connect programmer pins to flat driver pads?
anyone have a photo of the operation?
thanks
You would have to solder wires to the pads or create your own pogo adapter
thanks for the roadmap and info
the points are that Sc31pro driver haven’t regulated output, work with pwm and provide too much current for 3535 Leds at high modes. If I’m not wrong Sc21mini is regulated, no pwm and 1000lm max. Enought for lh351d or 519a powered by 18350 cell
I’m pretty sure the SC21 Pro driver is direct-drive as well. That small battery can’t provide a high enough current to damage the LED. Zeroair measured 2.5 A maximum.
IF you can buy the SC21 Pro driver (not SC21 Mini), I hope you try it and let us know if it works better for you.
fwiw, that review is not for the Anduril version of the SC21…Very much looking forward to seeing the results of getting Anduril 2 running on these!
As for regulated/non-regulated output. here’s my output measurement of the pro using ceilingbounce in case you missed it: https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1858265#comment-1858265
Is this Anduril 2? If so, can someone ask Sofirn to reflash or use this going forward? anduril.2021-08-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex
Why? That’s a pretty old version.
I haven’t kept up with Anduril firmware for all the various lights. Hence the if so part of my post.
Since it doesn’t seem to be Anduril 2, we will have to wait for someone to compile one. At least we know anduril.2021-08-31.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex can be used to create an Anduril 2 firmware since Sofirn seemed to use their own version for this light
I think what SammysHP is trying to say is that Sofirn should be using anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616.hex since that is the latest official build of Anduril 2 that will work
gChart, any chance that you could design a Programming Key for the SC21 Pro? If I understand correctly, it only needs three pins, but the key has to be five pins wide: (GND) (VCC) (blank) (blank) (UPDI). Too bad Sofirn didn’t put them together so that your UPDI key could be used.
I’m confused now
So it seems the latest Anduril 2 works but has problems?
Look at post #207. I improperly erased the MCU and that was causing some odd issues. The latest Anduril 2 build works great after I did a factory reset.
Who do we contact at Sofirn to see if Sofirn can use this build for future lights?
Please no, there are more recent versions and Sofirn should talk to a dev (ToyKeeper) first.
Haven’t kept track of changes, but are there any fixes/additions that apply to the SC21 when using a newer version? If not it won’t matter using an older version.
Don’t recall if this was mentioned earlier; the TIRs Convoy/Simon sell for the S2+ also fit wonderfully in the SC21 without the glass lens and emitter gasket just as they do in the S2+. The head will screw down more for those who don’t need the warning label to line up
I grabbed a random beaded TIR from my stash, probably a 15deg, and honestly wish this were an option from factory, it’s great.
fwiw, I just tried it, and no go: (maybe cause dedomed)
.
Awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing
Apologies, I was mistaken; the TIR was likely a 45 or 60 deg beaded TIR, one of the jobbies listed here: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1577614278.html
I just tried the 10 and 15 deg TIRs and the beams were rather lackluster as you’ve shown, I’m also using a DD 519A.
Took some more images comparing the stock reflector with the Convoy beaded TIR
https://imgur.com/a/hUoT0nb
glad to hear the 45 degree works better w the dedome 519a, than the narrower beams..
much appreciate you providing the link, I went ahead and ordered a few different Tir to test..
New flashaholic here. I’m new to this hobby. I started out with a Nebo Torchy (wich is dangerous when you tend to walk around with ferrous metal shavings in your pockets), advanced to the SC21 5000k and just added a SC21 pro to the collection.
I flashed my light with anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp36-t1616 according to Adair21s instructions. I soldered to the pads and used an FTDI breakout board, two resistors and a diode on a bread board for the flashing.
At first I had slow ramping. After a factory reset it started ramping normally.
Fiddeling with my light, I found out that the bezel isn’t glued (seems like they have skipped the glue on the green versions.)
That led me to order some TIR lenses from Convoy to do some experimenting.
At the same time I ordered an 2700k S2+ LH351D (I also have a 4000k SP36 BLF incoming). Into the rabbit hole I go.
> seems like they have skipped the glue on the green versions
I also had no glue on two green SP10.. a red one required heat to open.
It's nice to see you, Yngvej!
How do you pronounce your username?
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // raccoon's light reviews
I’m guessing similar to Mr Malmsteen, ie “Eeng-vay”.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
Sweet!
My Norwegian is a bit rusty.
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread // raccoon's light reviews
Thanks. The automatic lockout was definitely worth the effort.
raccoon city:
Like Yngwie Malmsteen is the closest pronunciation for english speakers. I belive I read once that he changed from Yngve to Yngwie because no one could pronounce Yngve.
I know the D4v2 has different flashing pads. I have been able to flash the D4v2 with Hank’s adapter by simply using a steady hand and holding the pins down on the flashing pads.
Can I build a similar adapter and hold it down on the flashing pads? If so, any guide on how to build an adapter for this light? I wonder what Sofirn uses to flash firmware
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