Sofirn SC21 mini

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raccoon city
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Yngvej wrote:

raccoon city:

Like Yngwie Malmsteen is the closest pronunciation for english speakers. I belive I read once that he changed from Yngve to Yngwie because no one could pronounce Yngve.

Alright, thanks for that!  :THUMBS-UP:

jon_slider
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My little SC21 Pro, modded to 660nm red has become my favorite nightstand light. Im finding the lighted switch really useful.

For the past few days I have been leaving the Red LED On at the lowest mode 24/7. It has not changed the battery voltage readout (love that feature too). Im starting to wonder how long the lowest mode will last.. LOL

.

btw, they are on sale, code S7ECOBGO, the SP10 Pro also.

MascaratumB
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jon_slider wrote:
[…]. Im starting to wonder how long the lowest mode will last.. LOL

[…]


And that may be a…neverending stooooryyyyyy Big Smile

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supreme wrote:
Can I build a similar adapter and hold it down on the flashing pads? If so, any guide on how to build an adapter for this light? I wonder what Sofirn uses to flash firmware

That is the intended way to use the pads. You have to make yourself an adapter with pogo pins. You’ll also need a different programming device and software compared to the D4v2.
supreme
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I have zero clue where to start. I followed the guide on BLF for the D4v2. I have no idea what to purchase, what programming device, software, etc. Would this be similar software to the SP10 Pro? I have gchart’s adapter but haven’t had time to look for a guide for the SP10 Pro

SammysHP
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Yes, basically the same as for the SP10 Pro. Just with a different pogo pin adapter.

jon_slider
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supreme wrote:
I have zero clue where to start.
for a flashing guide for the SC21 Pro see posts 206 and 209 by Adair21

for a flashing guide to Sofirn SP10 Pro see this post by zumlin

jon_slider
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tldnr
can someone sell me a pogo harness for SC21 Pro that plugs into my TTL?

—-

Im just in over my head trying to understand this:

Adair21 wrote:

1. wire up the programmer to the light: pin2 => GND pin6 => VCC pin1 => TX/RX (depending on the programmer, you might need a 1kOhm resistor between TX and pin1)

Im trying to understand what connections to make to the TTL..

questions:

1. you want me to connect pin 6 on the SC21 to VCC? my TTL does not have a VCC label.. which label is equivalent to what you call VCC?

2. you want me to connect pin 1 on the light to Both TX and RX on the TTL? And does this programmer need a resistor between pin 1 on the SC21 and the TX and RX parts of the TTL?

sorry to be dense.. if this is just too many questions.. I understand. Totally lost here..

Adair21, could you share a photo of the TTL and wiring harness you use to flash SC21 Pro? And how you conect to the light? I think Im a visual learner..

Yngvej
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1: Use the 5V pin as VCC.

2: this is how I connected it:
Green goes to tx, blue goes to rx. The orange wire goes to pin 1 on the SC21

https://github.com/SpenceKonde/AVR-Guidance/blob/master/UPDI/jtag2updi.md

Seems like the adapter in your picture have been modded with a diode between T and R. In that case, just use the RX pin, 5V and GND

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Yngvej wrote:
Green goes to tx, blue goes to rx.

very helpful.. thanks for the photo

so, this is my SP10 programmer from gchart, showing how I would need to connect it to an SC21:
..

Im unclear about tx/rx.. the RX is shown, but where does TX go?
does this mean the SC21 Pro uses 4 wires, while the SP10 Pro uses only 3?

Yngvej
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jon_slider wrote:
Yngvej wrote:
Green goes to tx, blue goes to rx.

very helpful.. thanks for the photo

so, this is my SP10 programmer from gchart, showing how I would need to connect it to an SC21:
..

Im unclear about tx/rx.. the RX is shown, but where does TX go?
does this mean the SC21 Pro uses 4 wires, while the SP10 Pro uses only 3?

The stuff I did on my breadboard have already been done on your adapter. Notice the small black diode crossing between R and T on the board. This one connects them together.

Just use 3 wires. 5V (VCC), GND and RX(UPDI).

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Yngvej wrote:
Just use 3 wires. 5V (VCC), GND and RX(UPDI).
Thank You!

will work up the courage to solder some wires for an SC21 Pro reflash.. as soon as I grab a proper hex file

Yngvej
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Here’s the file I used.
https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp3...

Solder on! Smile
Remember to do a factory reset after flashing, because it will have slow ramping until you do.

jon_slider
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Yngvej wrote:
Here’s the file I used.
https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril.2021-12-13.sofirn-sp3...

Solder on! Smile

got the Hex file, thanks!

and thanks for all the coaching, including explaining the T and R little black diode on the TTL that gchart built for SP10 Pro.. I think Im almost ready to flash SC21 Pro..

instead of soldering wires to the TTL and the flashing pads on the light, I would like to build a pogo adapter for the SC21 Pro

can anyone here suggest a shopping list and links of what to buy to build a pogo pin harness adapter to fit SC21 Pro..

I have no experience shopping for the connectors and wires needed.

Yngvej
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You’re welcome. Smile

It’s very easy soldering. If I were you i would just cut the wires in your picture and solder them to the board.
Why wait for parts when you can get new FW already today? Smile

Just apply a small blob of solder to the pads, then a little on the end of the wire.

Put the cable on top of the pad and touch it with the soldering iron so that it melts together.
That way you don’t have to hold the wire, the tin and the soldering iron at the same time.

You can use a soldering braid to remove the solder from the board afterwards if you like (I just left it there in case I want to flash it again in the future).

jon_slider
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Yngvej wrote:
If I were you i would just cut the wires in your picture and solder them to the board.
thanks for your thoughts. I do not want to destroy the pogo adapter that gchart built for the SP10 Pro.. so I wont cut those wires.

I do understand I could just solder wires to the programmer and light.. and might do that, but, I have more than one SC21 Pro, so a pogo pin harness for that model, would be better than soldering wires..

in any case, thank you very much for getting me past my hardware wiring questions. Will update when I successfully update my SC21 Pro lights to Anduril 2.
===

update, with the tremendous help from zumlin on reddit I have moved one step closer.. I measured the pads spacing on the SC21 Pro,

and he linked me to a potential 6 pogo pin adapter
I went ahead and ordered the one w 1.27mm spacing…

also want to thank gchart for sending me the SP10 Pro kit, that is shown in the photos.

containerfan
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jon_slider, please let us know how that 6 pin adapter works out. I don’t mind soldering pins to boards, but I don’t know anything about board design. I was hoping gchart would throw a design out on Oshpark. Smile

zumlin
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Hey I am actually on BLF too. I read a lot here but I just don’t post much.

The numbers are a bit off, 1.4mm vs 1.27mm, 7.4mm vs 6.35mm (1.27 × 5). I have actually experienced this in the LT1, the spacing between the pads was a bit bigger than between the pogo pins, and they were not lined up straight either, but I was still able to flash it with a similar flashing adapter.

I hope that they are close enough on the SC21 Pro and I hope you have success flashing it.

jon_slider
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zumlin wrote:
the spacing between the pads was a bit bigger than between the pogo pins, and they were not lined up straight either, but I was still able to flash it with a similar flashing adapter.
that is my hope as well

thanks for all your time helping me learn to build a pogo adapter for SC21 Pro

Im finally starting to get the picture.. LOL

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Questions about Parasitic Drain on the SC21 Pro

can someone with proper tools and skills inform
1. What is the Parasitic Drain of the button LEDs on Low and on High
2. What is the Parasitic Drain with the main LED ON at lowest mode, w button light on low?
3. IS there LVP for the Button light, or Can it overdischarge a battery?

backstory, recent reports on the TS10 show no LVP for button lights, and using High Aux (they are wired as button lights), on that light causes overdischarge.

SammysHP
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jon_slider wrote:
3. IS there LVP for the Button light, or Can it overdischarge a battery?
  • It is not RGB, but single color aux LED
  • LVP for single color aux LED is not implemented in official Anduril yet

Thus it will be affected as well, like all Anduril lights with single color aux LED.

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SammysHP wrote:
LVP for single color aux LED is not implemented in official Anduril yet
thank you,

that is why I am asking what the Parasitic Drain is,
on the Green Button Light on High, of the SC21 Pro.
I want to calculate how many days before Overdischarge.

fwiw, that green button light does not produce a measureable output on my light meter

otoh, the TS10 Red Aux on High, measure 0.2 lumens (and overdischarges within 5 days of 24/7).

fwiw, The Floor output of 1/150 on the main LEDs of the TS10 also measures 0.2 lumens.

Adair21
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Hey Jon,

I measured the parasitic drain on my SC21 pro at 2.5mA on high and 100µA on low.

With an 800mAh battery, that’s roughly 13 days on high or a year on low.

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Adair21 wrote:
2.5mA on high… that’s roughly 13 days
Thank You!
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I finally figured out how to reflash Anduril 2 onto the SC21 Pro

the programmer I got from gchart for the SP10 Pro, also works for the SC21 Pro, with a separate harness…

I did not have pogo pins, I soldered the wires to the flashing pads on the driver. The wire harness I used for the SC21 Pro, came from a separate purchase on aliex..
.
all this thanks to Adair21’s post,
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1861493#comment-1861493
plus lots of help from several kind people who coached me privately to install all the software and driver, on my iMac.

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Question about battery type

is the Sofirn 16340 Battery an ICR, IMR, or INR chemistry?

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