Help me pick my new edc light

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sparks and lumens
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Help me pick my new edc light

I have been reading this site for years but never made an account but now my 2014 tn12 has finally kicked the bucket and can’t seem to find a proper replacement.

Was thinking of maybe getting a 21700 light but not seeing anything with the features I want.

What I am looking for

Tail clicky

A primary use brightness of 700 – 800 lumens

A high mode of at least 1200 lumens brighter is always better

A medium low mode maybe around 200 lumens

Low of around 30 lumens

A proper moonlight mode

Tailstanding

No built in charging is preferred

Color Neutral white

High cri

Simple ui for instant use primarily going to 700-800 lumens but allowing direct access to moonlight and quick to high I have flashlights with andruil ui but looking for an edc not
another toy

Needs to be fairly durable I dropped my tn12 over a thousand times even ran over by accident once can’t really blame it’s dying on me Smile

If the highest brightness gets to hot needs to have a built in throttling won’t always be in my hand

Price 50-100 dollars saving money is always good but might spend more for the perfect light

Haven’t modded lights much but wouldn’t mind if there is a high probability of success

Beam pattern similar to the tn12 not floods but not a thrower but be able to check the back side of a field

Any suggestions would be appreciated

Ps I do realize making an account on this site will properly bleed my wallet dry Smile

Edited by: sparks and lumens on 06/11/2021 - 20:27
goshdogit
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Welcome! I bet you’ll get lots of good input here about your new EDC.

You’ve got a good list of wants. I think high CRI will be your limiting factor.

Have a look at Parametrek’s amazing flashlight database for starters. The ‘LED Color’ parameter has a ‘high CRI’ field.

raccoon city
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Have a pleasant time at this friendly forum, sparks and lumens!

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sparks and lumens
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Would it be a good idea to look at doing an emitter swap? I have a hot air station and soldering iron and have done a little smd work. Don’t know how easy it would be to cook the led though.

goshdogit
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Swapping the LED would certainly open up your possible flashlight choices. You might search around for posts regarding swaps for specific flashlights. Some lights are easy to mod, while others are especially difficult to open without risk of damage to the exterior or even the inner workings.

I’ve done a few dozen LED swaps and haven’t cooked an emitter yet. I’ve heard that excessive heat may decrease an LED’s lifespan rather than ruin it immediately. Since they’re usually rated in tens of thousands of hours, I might never notice. LOL

If you’ve already got SMD and hot air experience you shouldn’t have much difficulty. I use my friend’s hot air station when I can, but when I’m impatient I’ve resorted to butane torches and heat guns. Party

You’ll also need to consider differences in footprint and voltage of LEDs. You could get around footprint differences by also swapping the MCPCB, but you’ll also need to consider how it affects the fit and/or focus of the reflector.

wle
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FW3A is pretty good

i dunno about cri though, i dont track that

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Firelight2
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wle wrote:
FW3A is pretty good

i dunno about cri though, i dont track that


FW3A is good, but it’s not what the original poster is looking for. He specifically mentioned he:
  • does not want Anduril. That rules out FW3A.
  • wants something durable. His previous EDC withstood hundreds of drops and even being run over by a car. FW3As are very thin. Definitely not durable enough.
  • wants 800 lumens main mode. Assuming he wants a light than can sustain that output, that also rules out the FW3A which can sustain I think maybe half that.

Lightbringer
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Get an S2+ (or its 21700 equivalent, forgot what it is, S21 or something) and you can pick your own emitter and driver to pretty much do whatever you want.

I got more S2+ hosts than actual complete lights for just that reason.

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wle
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Firelight2 wrote:
wle wrote:
FW3A is pretty good

i dunno about cri though, i dont track that


FW3A is good, but it’s not what the original poster is looking for. He specifically mentioned he:
  • does not want Anduril. That rules out FW3A.
  • wants something durable. His previous EDC withstood hundreds of drops and even being run over by a car. FW3As are very thin. Definitely not durable enough.
  • wants 800 lumens main mode. Assuming he wants a light than can sustain that output, that also rules out the FW3A which can sustain I think maybe half that.

*==oh
well he’s going to have to give up something!
there are too many requirements

plus:
my fw3a has been very reliable
he just said simple ui, he didn;t say ‘no anduril’ (it;s too subjective Smile )

wle*

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
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sparks and lumens
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Andruil would work if i can flash it to default to a set brightness and have a simple ui with the more complex options hidden so to speak. I did however forget to add one more requirement needs to fit the loop on my pants or have a good quick access holster.

wle
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flashing is a lot of trouble

anduril does have memory, of course

and you can set ceiling and floor to the same value, so that is the only level available

you can also set the stepped mode and the ramping mode ceiling and floor independently
so you could have the ‘stepped mode’ set to one level
then when you switched to ramping you could set ceiling and floor apart so it would actually ramp

anything beats #$#$ing flashing lights
i won;t do it
and i flash and program micros for a living!

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
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BOO5TED
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Anduril 2 has two modes, Simple and Advanced.

Simple is on/off, ramp up/down and battery check.

Advanced has all the strobe/blinky/specialty modes.

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sparks and lumens
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Starting to think I might should get two lights. I normally carry my S1R Baton as well an my tn12. Maybe get a lumintop fwaa as the high cri with tailstanding and go for brighter and high efficiency with the main light.

JasonL
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FW3A is great. You won’t be disappointed

CR888
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sparks and lumens wrote:
Starting to think I might should get two lights. I normally carry my S1R Baton as well an my tn12. Maybe get a lumintop fwaa as the high cri with tailstanding and go for brighter and high efficiency with the main light.

Light has just released the Warrior-mini-2, it meets all your requirements.

CR888

makapuu
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Lightbringer wrote:
Get an S2+ (or its 21700 equivalent, forgot what it is, S21 or something) and you can pick your own emitter and driver to pretty much do whatever you want.

I got more S2+ hosts than actual complete lights for just that reason.

Yup, I agree get a S2 or S2+. The selection of emitters, driver’s, and even tint options should be able to make you happy.
Another plus is the simple UI. You can even choose how many modes you want your UI to have.
Also it appears you put your lights through some abuse. The bang for the buck prices Convoy has will make your wallet smile.

lfb
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Acebeam TK18 Nichia meets some of your requirements. I can’t tell about been durable.

sparks and lumens
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The olights I have all have very poor color rendering does the warrior mini 2 have any different leds cant seem to find any specs on cri. Far as the ace beam and convoy how much throw can you get out of the tir optics my only experience with them is my emisar d4 CuTi with its stock optic and that is not quite enough throw for me. Also with the ace beam it seems to only use button tops I have way more 18650s than I can count and none are button top so kind of annoying for me.

zoulas
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sparks and lumens wrote:
Andruil would work if i can flash it to default to a set brightness and have a simple ui with the more complex options hidden so to speak. I did however forget to add one more requirement needs to fit the loop on my pants or have a good quick access holster.

Looks like you got your money’s worth.
sparks and lumens
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zoulas wrote:

Looks like you got your money’s worth.

Had to take a file to it to get the burr off after dropping it on concrete a few times Smile
MascaratumB
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CR888 wrote:
sparks and lumens wrote:
Starting to think I might should get two lights. I normally carry my S1R Baton as well an my tn12. Maybe get a lumintop fwaa as the high cri with tailstanding and go for brighter and high efficiency with the main light.
Light has just released the Warrior-mini-2, it meets all your requirements.

Except for the neutral white and high cri Oops
Also, the type of beam is not necessarily the same as the TN, because of the reflector vs TIR Oops

Apart from this, it seems to be a good option, specially now that the clip can/seems to be reversible Wink

Check the MHVAST TG20:
http://www.mhvast.com/product/25.html

Or the Jetbeam 2MS:
http://www.jetbeamlight.com/products_show322.html

gravelmonkey
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Not a specific light reccomendation, but plenty of folks here will help troubleshoot that TN12 issue – if you could get it working again, it would be a good back-up.

sparks and lumens
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If it could be fixed I would love to can’t figure out how to take apart the head if I give the light a hard knock it flickers and runs on dim so might be a broken solder joint. Still will probably upgrade it. I was thinking of doing so before it died.

smiley
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Perhaps you Try a Convoy M2 side clip or lanyard & tail switch. Thumbs Up pm Mr .Simon @convoy store and he will hook you up. Reasonably priced no aundriel.

Scallywag
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JasonL wrote:
FW3A is great. You won’t be disappointed

Then why are there so many disappointed FW3A-series owners?

Issues with the switch, issues with lumintop changing things between runs, some models feature a driver with no reverse polarity protection. ..

lfb
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sparks and lumens wrote:
The olights I have all have very poor color rendering does the warrior mini 2 have any different leds cant seem to find any specs on cri. Far as the ace beam and convoy how much throw can you get out of the tir optics my only experience with them is my emisar d4 CuTi with its stock optic and that is not quite enough throw for me. Also with the ace beam it seems to only use button tops I have way more 18650s than I can count and none are button top so kind of annoying for me.

I’m almost sure acebeam can take flat tops because it has springs on both sides. Throw isn’t that great(9kcd advertised).
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Sounds like the Acebeam TK18 with Nichia 90+ CRI is pretty close to everything you asked for except it’s an 18650. I recently purchased the Cu T18 and like a LOT about it… Be aware, though, that is an e-switch with no momentary, and a slow double click for turbo (press and hold from off for moonlight). Nice, WIDE hotspot for decent throw on Turbo, while being wide enough for walking a path in the dark without being a flood.

I “think” the aluminum version allows for changing Carclo optics (like the FW3A uses) for playing with the beam pattern. I can’t get the bezel off of my Cu version to change the optic but I’m happy with the beam profile.

I think they are newly discontinued so there might not be many available.

Some notes…

1. The light comes setup in ECO mode, so for the “advanced” flashlight user be sure to change the setting to “Power.”
2. “Power” mode is only available with 10A continuous drain 18650’s. I’m currently using an LG “brown” 3000mah 18650 that allows full “Power” mode functionality. A Nitecore 18650 w/ Micro usb port fit, but since it wasn’t rated at 10A continuous I could only use the “Eco” mode for full functionality with it.

gravelmonkey
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sparks and lumens wrote:
If it could be fixed I would love to can’t figure out how to take apart the head if I give the light a hard knock it flickers and runs on dim so might be a broken solder joint. Still will probably upgrade it. I was thinking of doing so before it died.

Tried cleaning contacts and making sure the switch retaining ring is tight? I had a Fenix LD20 act a similar way- tightened the brass ring on the inside of the tailcap and it’s been great ever since.

sparks and lumens
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I bypassed the rear tail cap with a wire lead to check the switch still acted the same. Looking at building a convoy s2 I can’t find a single led that is both high cri and bright as I want so looks like I might have to go with the tir optics to get high cri that bright regardless of the host. Does anyone have any experience with the beam difference between the tk18 and the stock optic on a emisar d4?

Boaz
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 The thrunite looks a lot like a couple of the newer Sofirns . My opinion is that Sofirn is like Convoy and is really listening to the feedback from this forum .They've also been willing to put High cri emitters in their lights and mod their own drivers and call them BLF versions .

 They're  definitely cheaper than Thrunites price-wise ...and tough enough not to have complaints chasing them either .

 

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lfb
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sparks and lumens wrote:
I bypassed the rear tail cap with a wire lead to check the switch still acted the same. Looking at building a convoy s2 I can’t find a single led that is both high cri and bright as I want so looks like I might have to go with the tir optics to get high cri that bright regardless of the host. Does anyone have any experience with the beam difference between the tk18 and the stock optic on a emisar d4?

One observation, d4 should have more throw than tn12,you just can’t see it because the glare of wider beam. It’s not usual throwers with high CRI, because at high distance it doesn’t make much difference. Also, for short distance, TIR produce a more comfortable beam. Have you looked at sofirn TF84 and acebeam T36 4000k?

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