Why no compact 18350 lights with Anduril? Thrunite T1 w/ Anduril would be lovely

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LightObsession
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Wurkkos Terry wrote:
Why not! HD20, TS21 with 20350 tube, can be powered by 18350


!https://ueeshop.ly200-cdn.com/u_file/UPAP/UPAP579/2107/01/photo/c04f435d...!

The TS21 with short tube appears be a viable option, if floody enough and not to fat to carry clipped inside the outside corner of my back pants pocket.

LightObsession
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Wurkkos Terry wrote:
Why not! HD20, TS21 with 20350 tube, can be powered by 18350


!https://ueeshop.ly200-cdn.com/u_file/UPAP/UPAP579/2107/01/photo/c04f435d...!

I just ordered the TS21 with battery and 20350 tube from the Wurkkos website.

It will take 2 – 4 weeks to receive the flashlight in America from China.

I really wish that they had been in stock on Amazon for faster shipping.

Forsythe P. Jones
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If you’re into Anduril I would not buy any non-Hank light right now. Hank’s are the only ones with a flashing key that lets you reprogram the software without taking the light completely apart (i.e. unsoldering stuff), from what I can tell. The current development versions of Anduril have significant improvements over the stuff being shipped in any production light today. With a Hank light, that is no problem at all— you just download the newest code and flash it. With other lights you have an electronics project on your hands. Even ToyKeeper says the code in most of her lights are out of date because of this headache.

With your Hank light don’t forget to get the USB flashing gizmo that is $14.50 or so (works with all his Anduril lights). Some future Anduril lights will use a less complicated interface based on newer chips, but those are not out there yet.

xevious
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FW3A sure gets short w/18350 tube, IMHO
Next to an FWAA:

TIFisher
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xevious wrote:
FW3A sure gets short w/18350 tube, IMHO… Next to an FWAA: !{width:90%}https://i.postimg.cc/N0JDNpBP/Lumintop-FWAA-FW3-A-18350-compare.jpg!

Very, very cool. Can you elaborate on the components you used to put that together?

xevious
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TIFisher wrote:
xevious wrote:
FW3A sure gets short w/18350 tube, IMHO… Next to an FWAA: !{width:90%}https://i.postimg.cc/N0JDNpBP/Lumintop-FWAA-FW3-A-18350-compare.jpg!

Very, very cool. Can you elaborate on the components you used to put that together?

Thanks. Started with a gray FW3A. Mods: a copper 18350 tube sold for the FW3A, the stainless steel bezel option, a GITD tape strip in that groove along the tail grip, and then a GITD insert that goes under the TIR optic. Mine is green, but my phone camera mucked with the color making it look aqua.
TIFisher
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xevious][quote=TIFisher][quote=xevious wrote:
Started with a gray FW3A. Mods: a copper 18350 tube sold for the FW3A, the stainless steel bezel option, a GITD tape strip in that groove along the tail grip, and then a GITD insert that goes under the TIR optic. Mine is green, but my phone camera mucked with the color making it look aqua.

Thanks for the info, and LOL on the camera color version. I dig the aqua!!

xevious
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TIFisher wrote:
Thanks for the info, and LOL on the camera color version. I dig the aqua!!
No prob. I agree, aqua looks better, but unfortunately doesn’t “pop” as madly as the green in the start. Unreal how bright the green can get. And it lasts longer too.

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