Anyone's ThruNite Ti2's not work on AAA Eneloops?........

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nottawhackjob
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Anyone else finding this stubidly and morbidly entertaining?……

Me real-time goin’ back and forth surgerying on this poor Ti2, the gallery looking down from up in the balcony, until maybe watt’s only goin’ be left is the tail end with the lanyard loop. LOL Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

nottawhackjob
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arow55 wrote:
nottawhackjob wrote:
“Try jumping the negative contact of eneloop. That should tell you something.”……

Already did that right from the get-go when I was too lazy to pull the pill. LOL


Wow. All I can say is cutting a coil off the big end worked on mine. Mentioned it on a thread about ti3 deal.

YOU’RE NOT GONNA BELIEVE IT!!!!!!!!!

Cut another coil off the spring so all that was left was about 5mm.

IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

Arow55………………….’‘YOU CRAZY BASSTURD!!!!!! I READ YOUR BOOK!!!!!!!!.” Gen. George S. Notta, Retired.

PS. Jon, I don’t know watt to say. This shouldn’t have werked. Grad LOL Facepalm Thumbs Up Beer

PSS. I cut off enuff of the spring coil that if ya just freely drop in the Eneloop the top insulation face is about 1mm higher than the tube. That’s a lot of difference. Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

chops728
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nottawhackjob wrote:
chops728 wrote:
Try putting a small solder blob on the positive of the battery —- it might not be protruding far enough to make contact

Already did that too right from the get-go. Still no werkyquerky.

Notta didn’t just fall off the carrot truck. LOL Beer

Gad to hear that — something has you stumped though

nottawhackjob
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Got er’ fixed per above thanx to Arow55!!!!!!! (He may be a mad genius or sumthin’.) Glasses Grad Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

arow55
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nottawhackjob wrote:
arow55 wrote:
nottawhackjob wrote:
“Try jumping the negative contact of eneloop. That should tell you something.”……

Already did that right from the get-go when I was too lazy to pull the pill. LOL


Wow. All I can say is cutting a coil off the big end worked on mine. Mentioned it on a thread about ti3 deal.

YOU’RE NOT GONNA BELIEVE IT!!!!!!!!!

Cut another coil off the spring so all that was left was about 5mm.

IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

Arow55………………….’‘YOU CRAZY BASSTURD!!!!!! I READ YOUR BOOK!!!!!!!!.” Gen. George S. Notta, Retired.

PS. Jon, I don’t know watt to say. This shouldn’t have werked. Grad LOL Facepalm Thumbs Up Beer

PSS. I cut off enuff of the spring coil that if ya just freely drop in the Eneloop the top insulation face is about 1mm higher than the tube. That’s a lot of difference. Shocked


Glad to hear it. That proves that I too am notawhackjob.
nottawhackjob
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arow55 wrote:
nottawhackjob wrote:
arow55 wrote:
nottawhackjob wrote:
“Try jumping the negative contact of eneloop. That should tell you something.”……

Already did that right from the get-go when I was too lazy to pull the pill. LOL


Wow. All I can say is cutting a coil off the big end worked on mine. Mentioned it on a thread about ti3 deal.

YOU’RE NOT GONNA BELIEVE IT!!!!!!!!!

Cut another coil off the spring so all that was left was about 5mm.

IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL

Arow55………………….’‘YOU CRAZY BASSTURD!!!!!! I READ YOUR BOOK!!!!!!!!.” Gen. George S. Notta, Retired.

PS. Jon, I don’t know watt to say. This shouldn’t have werked. Grad LOL Facepalm Thumbs Up Beer

PSS. I cut off enuff of the spring coil that if ya just freely drop in the Eneloop the top insulation face is about 1mm higher than the tube. That’s a lot of difference. Shocked

Glad to hear it. That proves that I too am notawhackjob.

My man, this just goes to show that BLF is the BEST!!!!!!! You’re now in Notta’s Hall of Fame. LOL Thumbs Up Beer

PS. Anyone messes with Arow55 messes with me. He’s a BLF Made Man. LOL Steve Shocked

PSS. Now I got 9 more to do. Anyone need 9 each slightly abused 5mm tall spring coil pieces? Big Smile

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

nottawhackjob
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jon_slider wrote:
sad, I would return for refund
if I dont get prompt reply to customer service, I immediately go to Paypal and start a dispute.. I get much faster results.. I think that goes to a different email..

are the drivers missing the brass button shown in the Olight version:

these Do work w Eneloop

I agree the Ti3 are fun little hosts
![img]https://i.imgur.com/qMqBnOMl.jpg[/img]!

I just de-domed the XPG2 NW on one of my new Ti3’s. Bought quite a few at this price. Watt an improvement in tint and CRI. Instead of NW it’s definitely now a warm white. The NW IMO has a bit of a greenish cast so not so much NW, eh? Tonight I’ll see watt it did to throw and flood.

Hotspot now considerably steps all over the stock XPG2 NW on a white wall. No surprise it’ll throw further outside.

Very pleased with the results. Watt a bargain this was for $5.95. Thumbs Up Cash And I certainly like that it has an AR lens to boot.

Thanks again for all your attention on the Ti2 issue. Appreciated.

Notta

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

nottawhackjob
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jon_slider wrote:
sad, I would return for refund
if I dont get prompt reply to customer service, I immediately go to Paypal and start a dispute.. I get much faster results.. I think that goes to a different email..

are the drivers missing the brass button shown in the Olight version:

these Do work w Eneloop

I agree the Ti3 are fun little hosts
![img]https://i.imgur.com/qMqBnOMl.jpg[/img]!

Btw I wood say the de-domed XPG2 NW falls somewhere between the 219b 4500k and the 219b 3000 as shown in your above jpg link.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

jon_slider
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nottawhackjob wrote:
I cut off enuff of the spring coil that if ya just freely drop in the Eneloop the top insulation face is about 1mm higher than the tube. That’s a lot of difference. Shocked

thanks for sharing your experience with The Ti2 arow55 Fix Thumbs Up
I wonder if the spring in my Olight i3e is different than the spring in the Ti2?

or if your Ti2 works because the component corner is now chipped out of the way, after the number of times the light has been loaded and twisted?

here is my Olight i3e:

this is how far the battery sticks out on the stock spring:

the spring allows the battery to be compressed below the end of the body tube:

the spring is concentric so it can go totally flat:

it is gold colored:

do you see any differences to the spring in the Ti2? (I dont own one)

—-
about Ti3:

nottawhackjob wrote:
Btw I wood say the de-domed XPG2 NW falls somewhere between the 219b 4500k and the 219b 3000
glad youre enjoying the dedomed option..

fwiw, because the Ti3 reflectors have a large enough opening at the base, the LH351d is also a good match for modding the Ti3 LED

nottawhackjob
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jon_slider wrote:
nottawhackjob wrote:
I cut off enuff of the spring coil that if ya just freely drop in the Eneloop the top insulation face is about 1mm higher than the tube. That’s a lot of difference. Shocked

thanks for sharing your experience with The Ti2 arow55 Fix Thumbs Up
I wonder if the spring in my Olight i3e is different than the spring in the Ti2?

or if your Ti2 works because the component corner is now chipped out of the way, after the number of times the light has been loaded and twisted?

here is my Olight i3e:

this is how far the battery sticks out on the stock spring:

the spring allows the battery to be compressed below the end of the body tube:

the spring is concentric so it can go totally flat:

it is gold colored:

do you see any differences to the spring in the Ti2? (I dont own one)

—-
about Ti3:

nottawhackjob wrote:
Btw I wood say the de-domed XPG2 NW falls somewhere between the 219b 4500k and the 219b 3000
glad youre enjoying the dedomed option..

fwiw, because the Ti3 reflectors have a large enough opening at the base, the LH351d is also a good match for modding the Ti3 LED

Ti2’s spring is silver.

Total coils of 5 including concentric flat-top.

Coil thickness is 0.60mm.

Stock coil height is 10mm.

PS. Both Ti2’s have that biggish black chip mentioned above in the OP with the “F” imprinted on top chipped at the corner essentially. It’s a big enuff chip that you can see the toroid-like wound wiring. Shocked

I think it’s a combination of me extra-torquing the head to get it to work and the coil cutback allowing contact. Butt like you said it’s a concentric spring. (???)

When you turn the head on the fixed ones it rotates down easily now so that it’s almost flush (about 0.25mm gap) with the tube step – the way it’s supposed to be. Before, there was about a 0.50+mm gap – even as I’ve said when extra-torque was applied. That’s when I’m pretty sure I did the main significant chipping on that “F” component, confirmed by the “krik” sound. LOL

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

nottawhackjob
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Some all might get a kick outta this. Sealed in their boxes units btw……

Of the ten I received only one worked with an Eneloop. That one as I examined its driver components had that “F” biggish chip already with the corner nearest the positive anode showing a ‘crack’.

Hmmmmm. Someone at the factory (Sung Yu?) had obviously tried an Eneloop. Shocked Couldn’t get it to work either.

Was told…“Sung Yu!!!! Stop trying Eneloop! Test only alkyline! How many time tell you!”. LOL

Anyway, I figured leave the stock spring where it is. Stick in an Eneloop and see if it it’ll work with that chip corner already ‘pre-chipped’. Lo and behold, I hear a “krik!” as I turn down the head.

And it works.

So I remove the head and examine the driver. Sure enough the cracked corner is now completely chipped off leaving only a very very slim slice of chip plastic remaining at its base next to the anode. Wiring in the chip is now exposed as well.

There ya have it. The “F” chip being so close to the driver positive is the main culprit – not allowing the Eneloop positive anode to make full contact with the driver brass button. The 10mm long spring left intact now allows the flash to work. I think it would be pretty tuff to dremel that chip corner base down as fine as this “effortlessly” turned out. Risky because you’d be grinding so close around the tiny driver board at this juncture – much less accidently hitting other components in the process. You’d need one tiny grinding bit too. I wouldn’t do it unless I didn’t give a rat sh*t whether I won the battle or not. LOL

Bottom line is that you’re prolly better off going with Arow55’s coil reduction solution and just leave it at that. Grad

The Eneloop insulation face still sticks above the tube by about 4mm as it does when stock and as shown in Jon Slider’s pics above for his Olights. Previously I had mentioned that it stuck up about 1mm when the spring coils were removed to about a total of 4mm height. Well if anyone else runs into this I would suggest to get the Eneloop insulation face just even or slightly below the tube top. This means yer cutting off about 6mm to 7mm from the stock spring. That’s a lot and more than just one coil – for mine at least.

I mentioned to Arow55 that the tan version was sexy. B*tchin’ actually. I have to say it’s kinda becoming one of my favorite colors for any flash now. Makes a purrty little flash that particular ThruNite Ti2 tan shade does. Thumbs Up Beer

With that…..

Good nite, Alice.
Good nite, Notta. See ya in a year or two. Shocked

PS. I just thought about it some more. I have a hunch that one unit wasn’t tested at the factory with an Eneloop. It was likely a outside pristine warranty return that indeed worked with their alkaline batt! Oooooooo. LOL Facepalm Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

jon_slider
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> There ya have it. The “F” chip being so close to the driver positive is the main culprit – not allowing the Eneloop positive anode to make full contact with the driver brass button.

> Bottom line is that you’re prolly better off going with Arow55’s coil reduction solution and just leave it at that

I dont understand how those two statements are not mutually exclusive

from where I sit, the chip in the component allows the anode to touch the brass button.. the spring stuff is just a distraction, that by coincidence breaks the chip off the component during repeated screwing..

but, I dont mind how you get there, cut the spring or not.. if it works for you, rock on!

and if you dont want to chip the F chip, maybe a foil ball, solder blob, or magnet, to add some height to the brass button..

imnsho, its not the spring… we know the batteries are the same length, and that the eneloop anode is 0.3mm wider

until I see a photo of an intact, not chipped corner on an F Chip, that works with a short spring, Im calling Bulloney

my bet is every Ti2 that works with an Eneloop, has a corner chipped off the F Chip, regardless whether the spring is short or long..

Ive been wrong before, when I thought I was mistaken.. LOL

nottawhackjob
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jon_slider wrote:
> There ya have it. The “F” chip being so close to the driver positive is the main culprit – not allowing the Eneloop positive anode to make full contact with the driver brass button.

> Bottom line is that you’re prolly better off going with Arow55’s coil reduction solution and just leave it at that

I dont understand how those two statements are not mutually exclusive

from where I sit, the chip in the component allows the anode to touch the brass button.. the spring stuff is just a distraction, that by coincidence breaks the chip off the component during repeated screwing..

but, I dont mind how you get there, cut the spring or not.. if it works for you, rock on!

I know. Butt for most folks this is likely the safest illusion/delusion. Btw if it’s repeated screwing that get’s it it’d have to be quite vigorous and hard. That little chip is tuff! LOL

PS. Bear in mind that of the 9 I had to fix using Arow55’s method the chip in question is completely intact afterwards – no vigorous screwing necessary either. Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

jon_slider
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nottawhackjob wrote:
PS. Bear in mind that of the 9 I had to fix using Arow55’s method the chip in question is completely intact afterwards – no vigorous screwing necessary either. Shocked

darn, there goes my perfect guesswork track record.. lol
I dont understand, but, for the price, I almost dont care.. Wink

as far as the spring color, the silver ones are stiffer than the gold ones, but they should still screw down to the same body to head gap, as you describe, both cut, and uncut.. or does the headgap change after cutting the spring (it shouldnt)

nottawhackjob
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“…..and if you dont want to chip the F chip, maybe a foil ball, solder blob, or magnet, to add some height to the brass button..”

Already tried a sizable solder blob on the brass button from the get-go. Still didn’t work. And that’s because in retrospect the tube negative couldn’t seat against the driver negative ring in combination with the stock spring made too much of a gap. Yes, I know the spring is concentric but it would also take a lot of twisting head pressure to get there and bridge that gap. Prolly would break something else too. LOL Shocked

Ya know, Jon, maybe ya should get that 10 pak and mess with it. Like I said the 5 tan versions ya get is worth the price alone IMO. Grad

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

nottawhackjob
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“…..as far as the spring color, the silver ones are stiffer than the gold ones, but they should still screw down to the same body to head gap, as you describe, both cut, and uncut.. or does the headgap change after cutting the spring (it shouldnt)”

Head gap doesn’t change.

That silver spring version is quite stiff indeed. You might be surpised even tho’ it’s concentric how much turn pressure I had to apply on the head up to a certain point.

Then I had to eventually wuss out. It won. LOL

PS. I just thought about it some more. I have a hunch that one unit wasn’t tested at the factory with an Eneloop. It was likely an outside pristine warranty return that indeed worked with their alkaline batt!

“So watts the prob with this thing, Sung Yu? We see nutting wrong! Put back in new box! Chop! Chop!”

Oooooooo. LOL Facepalm Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

jon_slider
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glad you are enjoying the color of your new Ti2 Tans
and
glad you managed to get all the lights working

the reason Im not buying the Ti2 is because I dont have the confidence to swap the LED, due to the plastic pill

meanwhile this is what I did tonight
Ti3, LED swap to 3500k 219b:

these have a metal pill, so the LED swap is straightforward

thanks for the interesting puzzle and conversation, and for tracking all the variables

I can hesitantly believe that cutting the silver spring makes it easier to screw the body tube to contact the pill..

I recant my previous opinions and yield to the distinguished gentleman:

prize goes to arow55 Beer
honorable mention to nottawhackjob Grad

nottawhackjob
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Nice! Smile

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

arow55
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I don’t understand most of what you two are talking about. My simple minded thought was the spring wasn’t allowing top of tube to make contact with head. The alkaline I used was a bit shorter.

arow55
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On one Utorch the tube was too short so I put a spacer in tail cap. Same idea.

jon_slider
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arow55 wrote:
On one Utorch the tube was too short so I put a spacer in tail cap. Same idea.
I dont understand what youre talking about either.. LOL but if it works, it does not matter whether I understand

and I will still buy you a virtual Beer for helping nottawhackjob get his lights working. It does sound like the silver springs are preventing the body tube from reaching the pill Smile

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arow55 wrote:
I don’t understand most of what you two are talking about. My simple minded thought was the spring wasn’t allowing top of tube to make contact with head. The alkaline I used was a bit shorter.

Hey Arow, I don’t blame ya at all here. If it wasn’t for that lucky one unit that had that chip corner pre-cracked down to its gnat’s a*s base this wouldn’t make sense fer sure. Butt I left in that stiff stock spring just as it came from the factory and lo and behold it now worked with an Eneloop. I know….. Shocked

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

nottawhackjob
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Arow……

I hope I can explain something better here since ya have a Ti2 in hand.

If you remove the head from those where you’ve shortened the springs I bet you’ll find that “F” stamped black chip has one corner that’s at least partially caved-in or completely sliced off.

The combination of shortening the spring AND the F chip’s corner slight cave-in allowed as you say for the negative driver ring to eventually make contact with the tube’s negative end and the batt positive anode to also make contact with the driver ‘s positive button. One without the other will likely not let these Ti2’s work. That little stock spring is deceptively stiff.

(Except in the one exception I show immediately above where the chip’s corner is completely shaved off down to its nitty gritty base. Then the stock spring will work with an Eneloop. In that case there is no chip corner interference with the positive batt anode and the negatives can complete their connection.) As you’ll see on your heads the chip corner is likely just caved in enuff and then WITH the shortened spring everything works as it should.

Nonetheless your solution still ends up as the simplest and most practical. Grad

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

arow55
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jon_slider wrote:
arow55 wrote:
On one Utorch the tube was too short so I put a spacer in tail cap. Same idea.
I dont understand what youre talking about either.. LOL but if it works, it does not matter whether I understand

and I will still buy you a virtual Beer for helping nottawhackjob get his lights working. It does sound like the silver springs are preventing the body tube from reaching the pill Smile


I’m drinking tequila because I figured I wasn’t getting enough cactus in my diet.
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arow55 wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
arow55 wrote:
On one Utorch the tube was too short so I put a spacer in tail cap. Same idea.
I dont understand what youre talking about either.. LOL but if it works, it does not matter whether I understand

and I will still buy you a virtual Beer for helping nottawhackjob get his lights working. It does sound like the silver springs are preventing the body tube from reaching the pill Smile


I’m drinking tequila because I figured I wasn’t getting enough cactus in my diet.

HAHAHAHA!!!!!

Great one!

Btw if anyone cares I’ll try to explain a perhaps subtle mechanical nuance about watt I’ve said above tomorrow.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

jon_slider
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I still do not understand how the spring is the issue… but there are a couple of differences..

I took the silver spring out of my Ti3 and put it in the i3e.

I suspect the Ti2 and Ti3 use the same silver spring.

The i3e works fine with the silver spring from the Ti3, and also fine with the gold spring the i3e came with. This suggests to me, that the spring is not the problem.. but then.. I cannot deny all your reports that cutting the spring solved the problem, without chipping any corners off the driver components.

fwiw, the silver spring is Not fully concentric, the bottom wind sits on top of another, creating a 2 wire thickness when fully compressed.

The silver spring is also stiffer, it uses thicker wire.. (and the silver spring is also shorter, but I dont think that is relevant)

otoh, the gold spring compresses fully concentrically, to a single wire thickness.

and it is easier to compress.

I do not know if the thickness of one extra wire, is the cause of the problem with the silver spring in a Ti2, it is not a problem with the Olight i3e. However, cutting off part of the bottom of the Silver spring, would eliminate the overlapping wire. That suggests that there is a logical reason for why the arow55 fix works to solve a possible issue with the body tube not reaching the pill. But the arow55 spring cut does not address the component that gets chipped because it sits closer to the brass button on the Ti2, than on the i3e..

nottawhackjob
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jon_slider wrote:
I still do not understand how the spring is the issue… but there are a couple of differences..

I took the silver spring out of my Ti3 and put it in the i3e.

I suspect the Ti2 and Ti3 use the same silver spring.

The i3e works fine with the silver spring from the Ti3, and also fine with the gold spring the i3e came with. This suggests to me, that the spring is not the problem.. but then.. I cannot deny all your reports that cutting the spring solved the problem, without chipping any corners off the driver components.

fwiw, the silver spring is Not fully concentric, the bottom wind sits on top of another, creating a 2 wire thickness when fully compressed.

The silver spring is also stiffer, it uses thicker wire.. (and the silver spring is also shorter, but I dont think that is relevant)

otoh, the gold spring compresses fully concentrically, to a single wire thickness.

and it is easier to compress.

I do not know if the thickness of one extra wire, is the cause of the problem with the silver spring in a Ti2, it is not a problem with the Olight i3e. However, cutting off part of the bottom of the Silver spring, would eliminate the overlapping wire. That suggests that there is a logical reason for why the arow55 fix works to solve a possible issue with the body tube not reaching the pill. But the arow55 spring cut does not address the component that gets chipped because it sits closer to the brass button on the Ti2, than on the i3e..

(An update on ThruNite’s response to my issues and referencing this thread which they are now monitoring. This is now elevated to engineering. They’re not gonna like what they’ll find. Shocked )

Regarding the spring wire not being truly concentric on the silver I think you’re spot-on. This would help explain why cutting off the lower coils made a difference too.

Since we know the chip interference is also part of the contact problem there’s another little wrinkle here……..

If and when the ‘F’ chip is even just slightly ‘chipped’ off at its closest to the brass button corner the batt’s positive anode is now effectively ‘cocked’ to one side of the brass button yet it still makes contact. This slight cocking at the brass button end translates accordingly to the batt negative end due to the non-parallel distance to gap law, where the gap increases accordingly. Soooooo………..we have two things going on here. At the batt negative it’s now not quite pressing vertically concentric to the stock spring. This causes the spring to cock as well. Now we have binding and friction and that would explain why the stock spring doesn’t give enuff to also allow the negative driver ring and the tube negative to connect.

When the ‘F’ chip corner in my one unit example above was essentially completely sliced off at its base the positive batt anode made full flat contact with the brass button and consequently concentric vertical compression occurred and the stock spring was now able to allow clear non-binding travel for the two negatives points to connect. This was the mechanical ‘nuance’ I briefly mention to Arow above.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

jon_slider
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nottawhackjob wrote:
At the batt negative it’s now not quite pressing vertically concentric to the stock spring. This causes the spring to cock as well.

If it is true that the positive on the battery is not making flush contact with the button on the driver, then your cocked theory makes sense

in fact, even without the positive post being cocked
the silver spring is prone to being pushed sideways instead of straight down

in my compression test of the silver spring it was difficult to compress without the spring getting cocked sideways.. for a couple of reasons, one is that the bottom coil is stacking under the coil above it, creating a cocked base of the spring. The other reason is that the spring is so stiff, the top of it wants to move sideways instead of down..

so yes, I do think the spring is part of the issue, and I do think cutting a bottom coil makes sense

anyway, for the price of the light, and my consulting fees to solve the problem… I think were over budget.. lol!

nottawhackjob
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“……so yes, I do think the spring is part of the issue, and I do think cutting a bottom coil makes sense

anyway, for the price of the light, and my consulting fees to solve the problem… I think were over budget.. lol!”

Yeah and cutting off the bottom coil part and using it instead makes more sense than using the narrower top part purely from the fact that it falls right out of the tube everytime ya change the batt. LOL

PS. ThruNite should hire you. LOL Shocked Thumbs Up Beer

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

jon_slider
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Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 5216
Location: Central North America

nottawhackjob wrote:
the bottom coil part and using it instead makes more sense than using the narrower top part purely from the fact that it falls right out of the tube everytime ya change the batt. LOL

good point about fallout

I was thinking the cut should be where the bottom wire is crossing under the second coil:

my thinking is that the goal is to prevent spring wires stacking on top of each other, while also maintaining enough girth to stay stuck in the hole..

with due respect
I think the idea that the tail of the battery gets cocked by the F Chip is a non Starter.. I am unable to cause any binding when using the base of a toothbrush to push the battery sideways down into the tube.. its just as easy, or hard, as when I push straight down.

I remain convinced that the F Chip is too close to the button, and any spring machinations are just superstitious oblations. Meanwhile the real fix is that the head of the eneloop creates room for itself, after repeated insertions past the offending F Chip.

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