Armytek wizard pro battery sensing problem

Hey All,

I’ve been a lurker on this forum for a long time and recently I’ve also bought the blf lantern recently. Very excited for it to come in.

The reason I’m writing this first topic is because of my trusty armytek wizard pro. It has been my daily driver for a few years now but it started to malfunction. The problem is that it starts lowering brightness and giving the low battery alert while the battery was charged a few minutes ago.

I just turned the light on and it immediately falls back into dropping down brightness and orange led. When I measure cell voltage I get: 3.951 V. I’ve had this problem with multiple batteries. All without a protection circuit. The temperature in the room is 25 C Celsius.

Another thing I saw online and I’ve tried is to enter the battery menu where you select the type of battery but my light doesn’t seem to have it.

Does anyone have any idea what I could try next? I don’t want to try to open the light until I see no other option.

Thanks!

Carlos

It's good to have you here, CvR_XX!

have you tried cleaning the contacts/spring with 70%+ rubbing alcohol / cleaning the cell / try with another cell, if it’s still fail you have a 10 years hassle included warranty

Thanks for your awnser! I’ve tried that yes. How do I get the warranty? My local seller only offers two years.

Edit: I’ve just noticed that they’ve got an email for that. Sorry for not googling before asking.

Does it happen at main and firefly levels? Could be a sensor problem or something could be shorting out somewhere. But if you can’t run it long enough to really see a measurable voltage drop in the battery then you can’t really prove it. It probably won’t make a difference but it wouldn’t hurt to run it without the tail cap using a wire from battery to the end of the tube. You’ll have to hold some pretty good pressure down on the wire on the battery while you’re operating the switch. That would simply rule out any sort of tail cap issues which are not likely. If you had a DC clamp meter to use with the wire test that would help to see if there is an excess amp draw. Obviously most people don’t have that. Edit. If it’s not a tail cap problem then you’re not going to be able to fix it. Getting through the warranty processe can be a hassle.

Hello! Actually, I don’t think the warranty process can be a hassle! If you still have this problem, you can fill in the form on our official website to start the warranty process!
If you have any difficulties, you can reach our manager either by phone or by email and he will help you!

… +1 …. :+1:

I just got back from a water scouting summer camp. Cause I needed my light I’ve tried some things to fix it up and luckily it worked.

Apparently, black goo was accumulating on the ring in the tail cap which the exposed steel of the main body connects to. This lead to a sketchy connection which resulted in a voltage drop measured by the driver board. I used some q-tips and rubbing alcohol to get it all out. I suspect that the black goo was little pieces of the o ring while it degrades.

Now my light works like a charm again but I ordered another headlight anyway so I’ve got a backup.

Thanks for the great tips!

+1