And sub-lumen moonlight is what the majority of users are going to want. The idea is to have a minimal amount of light to be able to see and be discreet and not hurt night-adapted eyes. Very important feature to most of us.
If it’s a floody beam, 1-2lm shouldn’t hurt night-vision, as intensity is less, being more spread-out.
If it’s throwy, just the opposite.
And sublumen should then be more properly be called “firefly” instead of “moonlight”.
Me, I prefer moonlight over firefly, as I’m mostly looking for stuff on the floor or just walking in pitch-blackness, vs checking a map or watchface.
In my GTmicro, which runs Narsim and is about as throwy as you can get, I configged “moonlight” (shortcut press’n‘hold from off) to 1, the lowest, and a fractional-second longer for “floor”. So I can choose between firefly and moonlight depending how long I press from off.
So maybe something like that… press’n‘hold shortcut can take you to firefly first (eg, 1sec) and jump to moonlight after (eg, 1½sec).
Not disturbing others sleeping, keeping dark adaptation for eyes, reading maps, looking inside bag at night or other close-up tasks where even 1-2lm can be harsh and too bright. The <1lm modes on the M150 and H04 is one of their best features and something that makes them really stand out from many other competing lights at similar price.
Some situations require a better preservation of night vision.
Here’s a UI idea on managing it.
Activate moonlight.
Click, Click+HOLD — shifts moonlight to next intensity. 0.3 lm, 0.5 lm, 1 lm, and 2 lm are the levels. After 2lm, intensity resets back to 0.3 lm. Whatever intensity you had set your moonlight, it will be recalled anytime moonlight is activated. Another idea would be if you do click, click+hold and continue holding, for each 2 seconds it steps up to the next intensity until 2 lm, then resets after that.
We would to do a simple survey for the M300's brother--the M400 new model. It will be use 21700 battery. We have options hard to make a choice. 1. Use CREE XHP70 led, 4000 Lumens 2. Use Luminus SST70 LED, 3000 Lumens Or others good options you guys may suggest. More floody beam, or more focus beam? Really need your help, and let us know how do you think? (The image is M300) !https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/p526x296/231041918_46...
M400 needs a recessed button switch that is easy to find in class complete darkness. The M300 switch is so small and very difficult to locate in the dark.
We would to do a simple survey for the M300's brother--the M400 new model. It will be use 21700 battery. We have options hard to make a choice. 1. Use CREE XHP70 led, 4000 Lumens 2. Use Luminus SST70 LED, 3000 Lumens Or others good options you guys may suggest. More floody beam, or more focus beam? Really need your help, and let us know how do you think? (The image is M300) !https://scontent-mxp1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/p526x296/231041918_46...
Its too high, 0,3-0,5Lm would be much better.
Why need it such low ? Use for ?
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New, M150 AA Flashlight Drop testings—https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9fdKIo85HA
Is the driver for 6V or 12V LED?
And sub-lumen moonlight is what the majority of users are going to want. The idea is to have a minimal amount of light to be able to see and be discreet and not hurt night-adapted eyes. Very important feature to most of us.
https://fundrazr.com/osturaband
No affiliation, just a fan.
Beside sub-lumen, OP reflector or TIR would be apreciTed since this one won’t be a thrower…
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
If it’s a floody beam, 1-2lm shouldn’t hurt night-vision, as intensity is less, being more spread-out.
If it’s throwy, just the opposite.
And sublumen should then be more properly be called “firefly” instead of “moonlight”.
Me, I prefer moonlight over firefly, as I’m mostly looking for stuff on the floor or just walking in pitch-blackness, vs checking a map or watchface.
In my GTmicro, which runs Narsim and is about as throwy as you can get, I configged “moonlight” (shortcut press’n‘hold from off) to 1, the lowest, and a fractional-second longer for “floor”. So I can choose between firefly and moonlight depending how long I press from off.
So maybe something like that… press’n‘hold shortcut can take you to firefly first (eg, 1sec) and jump to moonlight after (eg, 1½sec).
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Not disturbing others sleeping, keeping dark adaptation for eyes, reading maps, looking inside bag at night or other close-up tasks where even 1-2lm can be harsh and too bright. The <1lm modes on the M150 and H04 is one of their best features and something that makes them really stand out from many other competing lights at similar price.
Here’s a UI idea on managing it.
Activate moonlight.
Click, Click+HOLD — shifts moonlight to next intensity. 0.3 lm, 0.5 lm, 1 lm, and 2 lm are the levels. After 2lm, intensity resets back to 0.3 lm. Whatever intensity you had set your moonlight, it will be recalled anytime moonlight is activated. Another idea would be if you do click, click+hold and continue holding, for each 2 seconds it steps up to the next intensity until 2 lm, then resets after that.
Does that sound feasible?
Any news on M400 release date and / or final specs?
Goread Y-20 ( XHP50.2 mod ), UF-2220 ( XP-L2 -> SST40 mod ), Thorfire PF01S, Sofirn SP-10B, Manker E02H X 2, Manker E03H, Imalent HR20 ( XP-L2 & TIR mod ), Rofis R3 ( SST40 mod ), Skilhunt S3 Pro HD, Utorch UT01 ( XP-L2 -> Osram Osconiq P8 mod ), Lumintop tool AAA ( XP-G3 -> SST20 mod ), Skilhunt H04R RC ( SST40 & TIRs selection mod )
The brand new XHP70.3 HI 4000k 90CRI would be sweet.
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
M400 needs a recessed button switch that is easy to find in class complete darkness. The M300 switch is so small and very difficult to locate in the dark.
Warm to neutral white options with high CRI.
Basically anything in the 4000K-5000K range with a CRI over 90. Nothing noticeably green or pink.
The nicest light I’ve personally seen has come from the 4500K GT FC40 in the Acebeam E70, followed by the 5000K LH351Ds in the Sofirn SP36.
I still haven’t seen a 519A or B35AM in person, but I hear they’re excellent as well.
XHP70.3 HI 4000K or 5000K with an option of a beaded/ pebbled lens for those who are interested.
As others wrote, XHP70.3 HD or HI which has much less tint shift than the XHP70.2. 80 or 90 CRI would be nice.
My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews
My OL contest builds: 7th 8th 9th
My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2, Nightwatch NI40, Sofirn C8F 21700, Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05,Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3, Skilhunt M150
My video-reviews: Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05, Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3
From XHP35 to XHP70...
I 'd go with Nichia B35AR
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube
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