Sold: Brand new cyan D4V2 with 219B SW45k emitters

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mattlward
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Sold: Brand new cyan D4V2 with 219B SW45k emitters

Just got this in last week and it is a wonderful light! But, I am selling it because ML mode is not quite as low as my D4V2 SST-20 version. The cyan light has the CC driver and the SST-20 light is the standard FET. This is expected and I did not realize it.

The light works as expected, all the aux led’s are good, main emitters are as well. I have the SS bezel, magnetic tailcap and an extra optic. The clip was installed with a soda straw, so no scratches under it.

My asking price is what I paid + USPS priority mail in the US. $57.48 + shipping.

I would consider trading for the same light with the original FET driver.

d4v2-2

d4v2-1

d4v2-3

Thanks Matt

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

Edited by: mattlward on 08/23/2021 - 01:09
Forsythe P. Jones
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Have you tried the new dynamic PWM code? It will improve dimming a lot. It is brand new so I’m sure your light does not have it. You need the reflash cable.

mattlward
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I have not, but TK indicated that it would not make a difference with this driver. But, you bet I am going to try it on my other D4V2’s and FW3A’s when I have a reason to take them apart! This was the first light from Hank with that driver, it has it’s place, but if you really need moon levels 1/150 or 2/150 this is not the driver for you.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

Screwdriver
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Did you set the floor to 1? It comes at 3.

I have the same D4V2 /SW45K in grey, and I had to set mine to 1, and now ML is really low..

ch1ir
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Man, I just bought one with 219b mix how bright are we talking?

mattlward
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Screwdriver wrote:
Did you set the floor to 1? It comes at 3.

I have the same D4V2 /SW45K in grey, and I had to set mine to 1, and now ML is really low..

Yes, the CC driver going from turbo or high modes to ML causes the LED’s to delay in lighting if set to 1 or 2. Hank does not consider this a flaw.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

mattlward
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ch1ir wrote:
Man, I just bought one with 219b mix how bright are we talking?

Visually, twice the brightness of my SST20 light with conventional driver. I am guessing somewhere between 1.5 and 3 lumens, no way to measure. If I could set it to 2, it would not be a problem. The eye issues I have lead to no vision at all for about 30 seconds if I flood my eyes with to much light. I doubt that most people would ever care.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

ch1ir
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mattlward wrote:
ch1ir wrote:
Man, I just bought one with 219b mix how bright are we talking?

Visually, twice the brightness of my SST20 light with conventional driver. I am guessing somewhere between 1.5 and 3 lumens, no way to measure. If I could set it to 2, it would not be a problem. The eye issues I have lead to no vision at all for about 30 seconds if I flood my eyes with to much light. I doubt that most people would ever care.


Thank you I appreciate it I’ve never messed with the settings on them I may have to mess with it, you are selling at a good price I bet it will be sold before the end of the day.
Forsythe P. Jones
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mattlward wrote:
I have not, but TK indicated that it would not make a difference with this driver.

Oh hmm, I’m confused then, I thought the CC driver was the one that patch was for. I better check into it further before buying a light. None of us really needs moon mode (we mostly don’t need these lights at all, we buy them because we like them) but if we’re trying to make uncompromising lights, we shouldn’t have to deal with flickery or jumpy moon modes. Anyway, thanks.

zoulas
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Am I the only one that does not know what installing the clip with a soda straw means?

mattlward
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Straw over the clip arms when pushed on prevents scratches on the barrel. Smile

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

ArtieT59
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mattlward wrote:
Straw over the clip arms when pushed on prevents scratches on the barrel. :)

 

genius idea! i wish i knew this before i scratched the CRAP out of my new d4sv2 green and cyan.. agghh.

 

Also, i have this light, with same emitters and driver, and i set ML to 1/150 and it is LOW. the only problem i have with this new driver and ML is that ramping between the lowest level 1 and anything thats not BRIGHT, is humanly impossible becasue the low end of the ramp moves so fast. i understand it is a result of the hardware not the software but still.. it is kindve a pain. because ML is SO LOW and level 2 and 3 are just significantly brighter..

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

mattlward
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ArtieT59 wrote:

mattlward wrote:
Straw over the clip arms when pushed on prevents scratches on the barrel. Smile

 


genius idea! i wish i knew this before i scratched the CRAP out of my new d4sv2 green and cyan.. agghh.


 


Also, i have this light, with same emitters and driver, and i set ML to 1/150 and it is LOW. the only problem i have with this new driver and ML is that ramping between the lowest level 1 and anything thats not BRIGHT, is humanly impossible becasue the low end of the ramp moves so fast. i understand it is a result of the hardware not the software but still.. it is kindve a pain. because ML is SO LOW and level 2 and 3 are just significantly brighter..

Artie, is your driver the white one with components on the battery side?

d4v2-219b

Best pic I could get comparing ML on the 2 lights…

led

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

ArtieT59
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Yes that is the one, but I have sold the D4v2 that had it. But I have it in my dt8 as well. I could be wrong but I will check when I get home. I think I also have it in my D4v2 with all sw45k, but it's at the house right now. Will check back later today/tomorrow with more info 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

timbo114
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ArtieT59]<p>[quote=mattlward wrote:
Straw over the clip arms when pushed on prevents scratches on the barrel. Smile

 


genius idea! i wish i knew this before i scratched the CRAP out of my new d4sv2 green and cyan.. agghh.


 

Thank you Sir !
I am the “Straw Guy”

!

via GIPHY

!

I used it on all my Copper lights.
You can also remove clips using the straw.

Boaz
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I’d been using the straw trick forever and thought I’d invented it ... Regardless of where it came from it’s the only way to add or remove a clip . Needle nose pliers help to tug the straw under the clip once you get them started and plastic dental picks can help lift the clip.

 Some of us are only flashlight smart. 

 

Great light

Bump Bump

                 υμεις εστε το φως του κοσμου ου δυναται πολις κρυβηναι επανω ορους κειμενη

                            Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

ArtieT59
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Timbo... Boaz... I challenge you both!

 

what's your next best tip / trick / "hack" (I hate that word)

 

 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

zoulas
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If anyone can think of a replacement to the speed bump, that would be a money maker.

ArtieT59
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zoulas wrote:
If anyone can think of a replacement to the speed bump, that would be a money maker.

 

I don't know how, but magnets would solve that problem !

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

anonymous_user
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Forsyth P. Jones wrote:
Have you tried the new dynamic PWM code? It will improve dimming a lot. It is brand new so I’m sure your light does not have it. You need the reflash cable.

I don’t mean to go off topic but you could you give more info about this code. What version of Anduril do I need to flash to have this feature?
Forsythe P. Jones
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zoulas wrote:
If anyone can think of a replacement to the speed bump, that would be a money maker.

The what? Did I miss something?

anonymous_user wrote:
I don’t mean to go off topic but you could you give more info about this code. What version of Anduril do I need to flash to have this feature?

This is now in TK’s Anduril 2 branch. There is a thread about it: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78686

ArtieT59
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timbo114][quote=ArtieT59 wrote:

mattlward wrote:
Straw over the clip arms when pushed on prevents scratches on the barrel. :)

 

genius idea! i wish i knew this before i scratched the CRAP out of my new d4sv2 green and cyan.. agghh.

 

Thank you Sir ! I am the "Straw Guy" !

via GIPHY

! I used it on all my Copper lights. You can also remove clips using the straw.

 

Not to get too off topic, but thank you! and look here https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1795716#comment-1795716

 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

RamBull
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Can’t we also keep auxiliary lights on with modification of TK’s firmware.

elendur
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Try flashing the latest firmware, the ramp is much improved, very linear, and the low modes are much more easily selectable. Also, the jump between levels 2 and 3 is gone. Also the slow turn on is being worked on, there is already a solution that was temporarily disabled, if I understand correctly, because it turns out that the fix needs to be calibrated for every flashlight.