Maglite 2x D cell DL serial D2G-2 LED Emitter unit

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NeilP
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Maglite 2x D cell DL serial D2G-2 LED Emitter unit

I just stripped a pair of 2 Cell, D Cell Original Manyfacturer LED Maglites… not LED Conversions

Stripping them down, the LED ‘unit’ is built in to the switch housing

The units are mini ‘drop-ins’ with an emitter on a seemingly immovable PCB with a driver board mounted internally.

They are marked up ‘ Maglite D2G-2’

With a bit of prising, thx bottom plastic plug pops out, and the driver board slides out of two slots. No soldering of board to Emitter board, just press fit contacts

Getting it apart, I tested the LED and it works… so suspect the driver board

Did not get pics of the internals…

Only seen one other post on here from2028 asking about removal of LED PCB, from the housing, and it was not answered.

Google brings up zilch for D2G-2 as a part to buy…

Any one either modded one of these ‘drop-in’ LED units… or anyone manufacture a ready to go unit ?

From Jersey, the Island, not New Jersey, but old Jersey..the real one Wink

Edited by: NeilP on 08/31/2021 - 12:31
NeilP
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Lightbringer
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Whut’s on the inside? (plastic part)

Can you do any soldering?

Might be possible to solder in a 800mA driver from Fasttech instead of the come-with one.

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NeilP
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I’ll get pic of inside tomorrow, thought I had pics on phone… but no.

Yes, I can solder, turn stuff on lathe etc… might even be a case of making my own little units.

Under the plastic end cap is the driver board, so yes, your thinking is good,

Only 800mA ? Probably best ! Guess the cells would not like more… Or the OEM LED..

The driver board is not circular, it is a rectangle… slotted inside vertically

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kennybobby
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i found it was an Old Lumens thread where he modified the bulb holder to use a 7135 driver, he was a master working with copper:
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/12244

Wonder if it might do any good to enter the serial number of the FL at the support tab on maglite dot com websticle.

Maybe a picture of the whole light and also showing the switch arrangement that connects to the bulb—is it similar to something like this:

Now i used to think that i was cool,
drivin' around on fossil fuel,
until i saw what i was doin',
was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

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Wellp, that should be about 2W into the LED, and there doesn’t look like all that much heatsinking in that module, so I’d be hesitant to go higher.

If the case (minus the old driver) could fit a ~17mm circle in there, you’re good to go.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1127402-1-2-aa-aaa-1-mode-800ma-linear-...

2bux and change.

Should still be 200-300lm (100-150lm/W), depending how efficient the LED. Nothing to sneeze at.

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xxo
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What caused the lights to stop working?

NeilP
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xxo wrote:
What caused the lights to stop working?

I do not know..I actually took it on trust from the bloke that said they did not work that they did not.

I’l rig up a 3volt supply later to test then modules out. Should have done ti before really ..but wanted to get them apart.

Switch module is different . I will get a few more picture later.

Lightbringer wrote:
Wellp, that should be about 2W into the LED, and there doesn’t look like all that much heatsinking in that module, so I’d be hesitant to go higher.

If the case (minus the old driver) could fit a ~17mm circle in there, you’re good to go.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1127402-1-2-aa-aaa-1-mode-800ma-linear-...

2bux and change.

Should still be 200-300lm (100-150lm/W), depending how efficient the LED. Nothing to sneeze at.

Yes true , no heats sinking. will get measurements ..I probably have an order going in some times soon from Mountain electronics, so I am sure he will have similar to the fast tech one..

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kennybobby wrote:

Maybe a picture of the whole light and also showing the switch arrangement that connects to the bulb—is it similar to something like this:

Best I have on the phone for now

https://i.postimg.cc/mDPfXRrF/B84-EA955-A406-4271-B2-E9-DD8862-B94-B51.jpg

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kennybobby wrote:

Wonder if it might do any good to enter the serial number of the FL at the support tab on maglite dot com websticle.

I initially did check the magnate website but could not find any suitable search box that searched Serial numbers for support..but I was on the old iPhone 5..small screen etc…

I do see the generic search box, which does not bring up any useful info.

Under support the only option I can find to enter the Serial number is the Register Your Product ‘ page.

I left the lamps at the farm, so will need to go back to get the Serials…which is why I did nto post them in the original post..sorry..my bad..

I am just back from 4 week holiday in France..so chaos here as I get unpacked and sort my life out, getting back to normal..and the buggers that pay my salary expect more than just my bank details..they sort of expect me to turn up and do stuff for them too…so going to be tied up with that too Sad

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xxo wrote:
What caused the lights to stop working?

Big stars to the man that asked the best question …too obvious s…but the perfect solution..the answer was …….

No batteries Big Smile

I never bothered to shcek1 I took it on trust they did nto work !

Once I had the ‘drop-in’ open, I tested the LED..It worked.

So I reassembled and jsut pressed the unit up against a battery with a jumper lead…worked perfectly ..

Re assembled and put in some e fresh D-Cells..

Worked perfectly !

doh!

I never even checked.

Typical poor MagLite output though , even the LED ones have the ruddy horrid Mag Lite ‘pattern’

For completeness, though, here are the serials

DL200121996 Allen key mounting of switch unit and switch ‘zoom’ mover
DL202097078 Torx heads not allen key.

I’ll show a few more pics too ..

Driver PCB 9.8mm x 12.5mm

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Thanks for following up with the pictures, that helps to see how it was assembled.

The two clips in the bottom black plastic piece—they both connect to the Positive terminal of the battery thru the switch?

And for the 4 clips at the top beneath the emitter, the center 2 apply power to the emitter and the outer 2 are connected to the steel case for the return path to the Negative of the battery?

You wouldn’t happen to have written down the marking codes on the two chips?

Now i used to think that i was cool,
drivin' around on fossil fuel,
until i saw what i was doin',
was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

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Your assumptions about the clips are correct, yes

Those are the best pics I took of the chips, so they are the only way to read what the markings are.
They were hand held pics from the iPhone though, cropped in.

If I break out the Canon 5D3, a tripod and macro lens I will try and get some better shots… time here is 2134, and I am off to bed. Depending on work tomorrow I’ll try and get better pics, to see if we can read the chip markings

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NeilP
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Here you go

Apologies if the size is too big..haveing to rush..work just called…got a baby transfer to do ..I fly air ambo/ medivac….

From Jersey, the Island, not New Jersey, but old Jersey..the real one Wink

xxo
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Thanks for the pixs! These light are usually pretty dependable – it would have been strange for 2 of them to stop working like that.

Are the PCB’s and LEDs the same? I’m guessing that the lower serial is a luxeon rebel and the higher numbered one either a rebel or a XP-G?

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I am afraid I could not get the second one apart, and once I realised it was actually still working too, I stopped trying to prise/in crimp the plastic base unit

I did get the two emitters mixed up, so not sure now which came from which

I know the earlier serial has the Allen Key fixing, and the later is the Torx, but got the emitter units mixed up.

I think I managed to find/ reproduce the fault that my mate had with them, which is why he thought they had died… End cap corrosion, simple as that. You’d think by now I’d have learnt to look for the simple things first… I was just too keen to see inside the LED drop-in’s !

I’ll get some macro pics of the emitters for you tomorrow, but don’t think I can get the other unit open without damage to it, or me stabbing myself with a prying tool !

From Jersey, the Island, not New Jersey, but old Jersey..the real one Wink

xxo
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corrosion on the end of the barrel/end cap can do that, these areas should be kept clean and lubed. if they do get corroded, the can be cleaned up with some fine steel wool or fine sand paper on a sanding block.

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Thanks for the pictures.

The big square VSON-10-pin chip looks to be a TPS61200, a switching dc-boost converter that can supply 300mA 3.3V up to 600 mA5V from 2 D cells. Don’t know what your voltage setting is since the resistors have no value marks.

The SOT23-5-pin chip marked “AA0D” wasn’t coming up from any search, but appears to be an op amp, assuming that the board is multi-layer with internal traces to connect some of the lonesome vias. Pins 3 and 4 are measuring the current from the voltage across the 0.1 Ohm sense resistor marked “01Z”. Pretty clever for 2008 technology.

Now i used to think that i was cool,
drivin' around on fossil fuel,
until i saw what i was doin',
was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

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Yes, multi layer.
What is the big white device marked 152D ?

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Inductor, for the step-up conversion.

1.500µH, likely.

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An inductor coil, 1.5 microHenry, LPS3010 from Coilcraft.

Now i used to think that i was cool,
drivin' around on fossil fuel,
until i saw what i was doin',
was drivin' down the road to ruin. --JT

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Seems both are the same emitter

Sorry about the focus , best I could do without getting involved with camera s lighting etc..

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NeilP
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I did not measure the current between the driver board and the LED

I did a very cursory current test with two AA cells, rolling on the table, pressing the central terminal to the battery positive, and a basic DVM in 5 amp mode doing the negative side.

Very strange results

with ammeter set at 2000mA range it gave a figure of 1500mA.., yet turn it down to the next range ..200mA and it showed 15mA…
It was different reading between the ranges yet brightness was the same

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Older Luxeon Rebels…

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Would be a straight forward enough job to turn down a solid brass ‘pill’ the same to make a mount for conventional emitter MCPCB’s … what is the smallest? 17mm is too big .. probably need 12 I think…

Ok no airflow or conduction to outside world… but a block of brass would give a bit of heat sinking.

From Jersey, the Island, not New Jersey, but old Jersey..the real one Wink

xxo
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With only limited heat sink around the LED module and no thermal path to the barrel of the light, I don’t think it would be worth it to mod it for a high powered LED. This is something Mag fixed with the 3rd gen Mags.

The Amp draws you are getting don’t seem right, they should be around an Amp. Old Lumens did Amp draws on a 2D LED Mag towards the beginning of this vid:

and Old Lumen’s vid on the third gen Mags:

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Apart from me shouting at the video that the word is SOLDER ! With the letter L in it not ‘sodder’ then it was worthwhile to see.

Was hoping to see him mod the LED pill unit though

From Jersey, the Island, not New Jersey, but old Jersey..the real one Wink