➤ Runtime \ Beamshots \ Review (sofirn) Wurkkos TS21 (21700, 3*SST20, Anduril, Type-C) Finally, that`s it!.

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➤ Runtime \ Beamshots \ Review (sofirn) Wurkkos TS21 (21700, 3*SST20, Anduril, Type-C) Finally, that`s it!.

I will tell you from the very beginning the main thing you need to know about this flashlight.

BTW, I will add video review tomorrow. but i believe that even as is, this review shows you everything that you need.

It looks like (sofirn) Wurkkos TS21 is one of most interesting EDC flashlights you can buy now and, perhaps best budget one. Undoubltly this is best price\functionality ratio i`ve seen in years.

If you were waiting for the moment to buy a sort of jack-of-all-trades pocket flashlight, then it looks like this is it. I sincerely believe that many of the way more expensive major brand models are unconditionally worse then this $30 modest one. This is just that rare case when you get everything you can get for a minimal price tag.

LED: 3x SST20
Maximum brightness – 3500 lumens
Battery: 1× 21700
Built-in 2A Type-C charging
Dimensions: 113.4mm (length) x28mm (diameter)
Weight: 78 grams (without battery)
Flashlight body: aluminum alloy, anodized to military grade III specifications, anti-abrasive coating.
Waterproof IPX-8
Mode memory: remembers the last brightness level used in common modes (except strobe)
Low voltage protection: If the battery voltage is below 2.8V, TS21 will automatically dim to avoid damage to the battery due to over-discharge. At 2.7V, the flashlight will turn off automatically.
Thermal Regulation (ATR): By default, ATR will automatically lower the brightness level when the driver temperature reaches 45 ° C to prevent overheating. You can set a different temperature threshold by following the thermal configuration instructions
UI interface: Anduril
LED indicator in the button

You can buy (sofirn) Wurkkos TS21 at:
ALIEXPRESS
AMAZON

Nkon.nl – i`ve bought batteries here since 2015. Recommend.

PACKAGE AND APPEARANCE
The same modest box that Wurkkos constantly use. And it is naive to expect something better paying that low price.

The kit includes everything you need except a holster: flashlight itself, optional 21700 battery, Type-C charging cable, dual way clip, lanyard, manual.

The flashlight has rather modest size for a model powered by 21700 battery. It is comparable in size to Convoy S2 + and, for example, 13mm shorter than another popular budget 21700 model – Sofirn SP35 flashlight (you should pay attention to it if you want more range at the expense of side illumination). But, without a doubt, it has quite nice dimensions.

Design is very modest. Due to the deep gripping knurling, the flashlight resembled the enlarged, popular keylight Lumintop Worm \ EDC. There is absolutely nothing interesting here, the appearance of Wurkkos TS21 is quite ordinary. But this is exactly the case when you should not judge a book by its cover. As is design is ok for me, I would only prefer a more matte anodizing.





All flashlight body is covered with deep grooves, so grip is damn firm and comfortable.

But the lanyard mount is unpleasantly sharp. You can grind or put on a lanyard through the intermediate ring. I sent this feedback to Sofirn, they promised to make this part more smooth.

Magnet in tailcap is strong enough to effortlessly hold the flashlight with the battery inside.

There is only one spring at tailcap. I recommend not to use button-top battery as it may press and crack driver.

The flashlight can be disassembled into 3 parts. The turner is neat, but, in fairness, the price category is felt here …


The head is small. Cooling thins are decorative, but, anyway, there is almost no use of them with such an overall size.

Traditionally, the charging plug (Type-C, 2A, PD support) and the button are located on the opposite sides.

Button is not that high and, perhaps you`ll not quickly find it if clip is taken off from flashlight. The move is soft with an unexpressed click. There is a traditional red-green indication. Not the best button, but neither is worst.

In general, it will do, but I would like more tactile contrast. Ideal for me are Mateminko-Astrolux desin approach with buttons located in the recesses. By the way, if you are wondering what kind of monstrous flashlight it is in the first photo, then open this Astrolux MS05 SBT90.2 aka Mateminco MT90 Plus review there will be something to see.


The bezel is tightened very tightly, but, if desired, it can be twisted off, revealing the TIR covered with glass and the trinity of SST20 LEDs under it. Everything is neat and clean.



The manufacturer even took care of the gasket under the TIR, it covers the inscriptions on MCPB.

At this stage, the experience is purely pleasant. Of course, the flashlight, both externally and tactilely, pulls only on its price, nothing more. Here’s an example of what you can get by paying that way 3 times more. This is the Acebeam E70 and I think this is the most beautiful EDC flashlight I’ve seen in the last couple of years, especially in copper and titanium … Soon I’ll tell you about it.

Heh, the design simplicity is the only i can complain about by now…

UI

Here the gourmet flashaholic is rubbing his hands, because flashlight has well known Anduril UI, so it give user everything possible control on flaslight.

It should be noted that, despite its flexibility, Anduril is quite suitable for an ordinary user who is not interested in all kinds of candle modes and other goodies. The only thing that is definitely necessary to do right after you got Sofirn Wurkkos TS21 is to immediately check and calibrate the temperature sensor (mine showed 7 degrees higher). This takes like 3-5 minutes.
Optionally, you can adjust the thermal cutoff threshold, I raised it to 50 degrees.

HOW WURKKOS TS21 ILLUMINATES

Of course, high brightness with a lightweight body means its quick heating and a stepdown from maximum brightness. Fortunately, everything here is quite far from the blitz-like turbo of extremely compact Anduril-based models that Lumintop produced (FW3a \ EDC18).

This is how the modes are spaced. 6-7 seems to be as bright as my reference model – Convoy S2+ XML-2 6500K 6×7135 (for years i mistakingly though it was 4×7135…)

Runtime in turbo looks like this (remember that I set the thermal cut-off to 50 degrees). Anyway, a minute of turbo for such brightness is very good. Unfortunately, it is expected that the minute will be here only from a cold start. An already warmed up flashlight will not both two higher modes for so long. Of course, there will be no effect of fan cooling here. Though i expect that certainly increase runtime if use flaslight in winter.

Let me remind you that you have 7 brightness levels + turbo by default (and whatever brightness you want in ramping mode). 7/7 will give you almost 4 minutes before falling to a more than acceptable level and an hour or so of the total runtime, which is quite enough for an evening walk with an excellent level of illumination all around. In general, brightness will decrease in all the modes. But this stepdown will be completely imperceptible to the eye and 6/7 and 5/7 modes, which are most comfortable as walk-around light will provide you with an excellent runtime.

In short, though there is no full stabilization here, this fact will not bother you at all.

UPD. after several complaint about fast stepdown for 4000k version i did retest. Now i`ve got 5000K version, calibrated and stepdown set to 60 degrees. I evaluate results as really good one. without zigzag and other crazy crap.



By the way, here’s another good thing for you – Wurkkos TS21 works without a battery, giving you access to modes up to 4/7. In a situation of emergency, if you have a power bank, you can work

As for the light, alas, I got a version with a slightly brighter and much less pleasant cold (also green) white light. I strongly recommend avoiding it and taking the 4000-5000K version. The difference between these two color temperatures is already a matter of personal preference, I would not look for a functional difference here.

The light is convenient near, wide and floody. Of course, you shouldn’t wait for some throw, the flashlight will only penetrate ~200 meters in turbo mode.

It is clearly seen that the 6/7 mode, in general, fully corresponds to the maximum brightness for the classic standard Convoy S2 + Xml-2 4×7135

In the first GIF, it is also clearly seen that on the scale of a regular suburban area, the brightness is excessive, the mentioned 6/7 mode is quite enough here.










Work at half a hundred meters to the roof distance shows that the range is clearly not the best functional side of Wurkkos TS21. However, I repeat, in a turbo, a flashlight will give you the opportunity to work comfortably within a hundred and a half meters and within 70-100 meters in 7/7.

Quite expected. If you want to work comfortably at medium distance, look for a flashlight with different optics. The same Sofirn SP35 (review) will be much more practical here (however, and inconvenient for working near)

OVERALL IMPRESSION

This flashlight is just fire hot! It has everything flashlight user usually asks for: convenient flexible UI, excellent maximum brightness with a reasonable runtime, a capacious 21700 battery with fast type-C charging, a magnet at the tailcap and a choice of color temperature.

Yeah, design and packaging are modest – the flashlight will not impress as a gift… exactly until the moment you turn it on. After that, everything will fall into place.

Oh yes – most importantly, all this functional grace is frankly worth a little. $30 is, offhand, about half the size of another dull and full of marketing uselessness 18650 EDC flashlight from major brands and a little more expensive than these brand`s own branded battery ($ 3 cell + heat shrink with logo = $ 15-20). This, by the way, is a good illustration of the colossal mark-up in the flashlight industry. Ah, just seen that it cost more if order at Amazon, but still it is way cheaper than big brands would for.

Wurkkos TS21 is as affordable as it can be and I sincerely hope that the manufacturer will keep the price at this level, and not raise it after the initial start-up excitement. Sofirn (and Wurkkos is actually the same Sofirn) have already done such a sad trick with the initially inexpensive Sofirn TF84 tactical flashlight.

In terms of light, the Wurkkos TS21 is a good alternative to its longer-range cousin Sofirn SP35. Due to this better range and ease of control, the last will be more interesting to the average user. And the hero of this review, Wurkkos TS21, with its wide and easy-to-work floodlight, with the Anduril interface, which is most popular among advanced users, should undoubtedly gain popularity among this particular audience of BLFers. Personally, I don’t see any reason why anyone here at the forum may not like it.

By the way, it is worth noting once again (in case someone non-forum-member got to review from google search) that this UI not some tricky forum hack, interesting and convenient only for a sophisticated user. With all the flexibility of the interface, an ordinary user will be able to use it with convenience. The only thing that needs to be done is to perform a simple operation to check and calibrate the temperature sensor.

There is nothing more to add. I rarely openly recommend buying a flashlight that i review, but this is exactly this situation. For last pair of years my personal EDC model has been YLP Unicorn which was as a regular pocket flashlight.
But the Wurkkos TS21 leaves a keen desire to update Unicorn as TS21 provides with way higher brightness, built-in charging and a 21700 battery – all these features are a big temptation. I only will wait until Acebeam E70 appears on my hands and then I will take the final decision. It will be choice between awesome appearance and awesome functionality.

In the meantime, once again, I highly recommend it. As a result of the review, I had extremely positive emotions.

+ low price
+ built-in Type-C charger (with PD support)
+ choice of color temperature 4000 \ 5000 \ 6500K
+ Hi CRI in 4000K
+ magnet in the tailcap
+ 21700 battery
+ excellent UI
+ high brightness
+ convenient near the flood light, the flashlight works even without a battery!
+ additional short tube, good to use20350 battery

- sharp lanyard hole, and the manufacturer promised to fix it. In short, a flashlight is fire for its price
- need to check and calibrate thermal sensor

Edited by: Lumeniac on 11/01/2022 - 08:41
Wurkkos
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thank you for the nice review Crown Thumbs Up

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Reading this…Hard to resist..:) Thanks for this hightech profi review!

EDC- Wurkkos TS22 XHP70 nw, Sofirn SC32 XHP50 nw, WildTrail WT3M

Headlamp- Thrunite TH30

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Good review …Is there a rough idea of the runtime on mid-levels …say 700-1000 lumen ?

Thanks for the review.

*edited …. am I correct that it’s roughly 2 hours at 50% ?

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Sarratt wrote:
Good review …Is there a rough idea of the runtime on mid-levels …say 700-1000 lumen ?

Thanks for the review.

*edited …. am I correct that it’s roughly 2 hours at 50% ?

Not exactly, it’s Mode 6 running 50% relative output compared to Mode 7. If you look at the graph comparing relative output of modes, it is sitting at 30%… which should still be 800-900lm for around 2hrs if the light is hitting even 3000lm on turbo, let alone the 3500lm they claim. Not “incredible” since this is running a 21700, but still impressive.

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BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Sarratt wrote:
Good review …Is there a rough idea of the runtime on mid-levels …say 700-1000 lumen ?

Thanks for the review.

*edited …. am I correct that it’s roughly 2 hours at 50% ?

Not exactly, it’s Mode 6 running 50% relative output compared to Mode 7. If you look at the graph comparing relative output of modes, it is sitting at 30%… which should still be 800-900lm for around 2hrs if the light is hitting even 3000lm on turbo, let alone the 3500lm they claim. Not “incredible” since this is running a 21700, but still impressive.

I’m having a hard time converting relative output to lumens. If it really is 800-900 lumens for around 2 hours, that’s Zebralight SC700d territory, and I’d definitely buy.

Looking at zeroair’s review online, on medium, it starts at around 600+ lumens, and by 2 hours, it’s dropped to 325 lumens. Eyeballing it, zeroair’s high graph looks like it has more area under the curve, mostly from 600-800 lumens until it falls below 500 lumens at 90 minutes. Is that pretty representative, or are other people finding better efficiency?

Lumeniac
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added charts for 5000k version turbo

 

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I'm guessing here, that the new TS21 I got in RED w/amber switch LED is an updated version with:

  • Anduril 2
  • power bank feature from the USB-C connector

Boy, they aren't making it very clear - should add a v2 or something...

Lumeniac
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hi, try to reset to default settings. then you should be in simple audience. this one differs from advanced one, doesnt include strobe. 

  

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Lumeniac wrote:

added charts for 5000k version turbo


 



Those links aren’t working.

Trying to decide between 4000K or 5000K, besides the tint & non HICRI, I’m wondering if 5000K performs much better in output and stepdown.

 

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thanx for pointing at this, fixed. i set 60c treshold and have no problem with overheating, 5000k version to be honest, i dont really use turbo, 4-5/7 modes cover all the needs

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for doing this great review!

I’m still on the fence for which tint to get, 4000K or 5000K.

Lumeniac wrote:
As for the light, alas, I got a version with a slightly brighter and much less pleasant cold (also green) white light.
Sounds like you have three TS21’s one of each in all 3 tints?
The “much less pleasant” cold/green you’re referring to is 6500K correct? Does the 5000K have much greenish tint?

And which tint is used in the beamshots?

Lumeniac wrote:
I strongly recommend avoiding it and taking the 4000-5000K version. The difference between these two color temperatures is already a matter of personal preference, I would not look for a functional difference here
The warmer 4000K tint isn’t a “must have” for me, but the HI CRI is nice.

I also have the YLP Unicorn 1.0 and love the tint (LH351D 4000K 90CRI).
I have SST20 4000K in my FWAA and it’s a great tint too, but I don’t have any lights with SST20 5000K…
So I’m thinking maybe try SST 5000K in the TS21 if it isn’t too greenish.

_

Also, if I understand your update correctly, it sounds like the 5000K has a slower and smoother stepdown?…

Lumeniac wrote:
UPD. after several complaint about fast stepdown for 4000k version i did retest. Now i`ve got 5000K version, calibrated and stepdown set to 60 degrees. I evaluate results as really good one. without zigzag and other crazy crap.

Which is your personal favorite for TS21, 5000K or 4000K?

 

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nope, i only had 6500k (pics in this review) and only THEN i got 5000k

 

well, as i also have Unicorn, i can say that it is way better in matter of color\cri.  5000k of TS21 looks better then 6500k and worse then unicorn. back to back - you`ll see ts21 is greenish regarding Unic. i`m ok with this in-between. though you know, that is not cool to move to worse after better. if you just grab ts21 without using a lot some nice lights, you`ll be totally ok. 

 

4000K was reported to fave rapid sterpdown, unlike colder version. i dont have problems with 5000k version, but  to be honest, i dont abuse higher mode. that is ok for me to be below like 5\7. all higher leves are just sort of "ok, i know, if i need - i can use them". but usually i dont need. so i have no problems with stepdown at all.

 

 

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Thanks Lumeniac for the info! I just ordered the 5000K, I read somewhere the 4000K SST20’s Wurkkos sourced for TS21 are a different bin (more green) than what’s in the FWAA that I like, plus the chance of the more rapid/less smooth stepdown issue.

Again thanks for the great review, it helped me decide to get one, especially the comparison photos with the Unicorn and Convoy, before I saw those photos I imagined it was larger for some reason. Looking forward to getting it, (Hope to get the Anduril 2 version!) then I’ll report my feedback on it here.

 

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i`m sure you like it. 

ts21 is the only flashlight that has every single feature to replace Unicorn as my EDC light.   Wurkkos SP35 almost could, btw

 

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Hi Lumeniac,

Thank you for your wonderful review.
Can you help me to check if the body tube of Wurkkos TS21 can fit to the Sofirn SP35?
I appreciate it.

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GCM wrote:
Hi Lumeniac,

Thank you for your wonderful review.
Can you help me to check if the body tube of Wurkkos TS21 can fit to the Sofirn SP35?
I appreciate it.

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thanx for saving my time , man -)

ansiosta

 

 

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Great review Lumeniac!

I’m thinking of going with the 5000K color temp. Mostly because I’m just getting into the hobby and want to choose a middle ground. I’ve heard some ppl say 6500K is better for outdoors, but 5000K isn’t bad. What are your thoughts on this as I’ll be using the TS21 primarily outdoors.

Also which batteries do you suggest between Samsung 40T, Molicel P42-A and the stock Wurkkos 21700s. The Wurkkos once have a much lower max discharge current, but more capacity. Would u sacrifice that runtime (if any sacrifice) for the output of a Samsung or Molicel battery?

And would u suggest something like the Samsung 50G? Is it even compatible with the TS21?

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i use 5000k version as my primary edc, no disappointment at all.

 

use 40t if u prefer high modes over runtime. i use 5000k liitokala and have no problem as i usually stay below 500 lumens

 

 

 

 

 

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You also mentioned this:

Quote:
The only thing that is definitely necessary to do right after you got Sofirn Wurkkos TS21 is to immediately check and calibrate the temperature sensor (mine showed 7 degrees higher). This takes like 3-5 minutes. Optionally, you can adjust the thermal cutoff threshold, I raised it to 50 degrees.

Are there instructions on how to do this in the manual?

Do I need an optical temp sensor?

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please look for any utube video with anduril manual. this is too tricky to write donw. but quite simple once you see this on video. 

thermal sensor is built-in already - )

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Ok. Awesome. Thanks for your help! Your review here and on YouTube has helped me choose this flashlight as my next purchase Smile

Keep up the great vids on youtube

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thanx for kind words

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Jingling wrote:
Also which batteries do you suggest between Samsung 40T, Molicel P42-A and the stock Wurkkos 21700s. The Wurkkos once have a much lower max discharge current, but more capacity.
my opinion, Use the Wurkkos battery. Do not try to supercharge the light by using extra high discharge batteries. They will contribute to overheating.

imo, only people that are able to replace damaged LEDs, should be screwing around with Higher Discharge rate batteries.

the only benefit of High Discharge is a very brief extra output on Turbo, of about 20%, which is Not a visually significant increase. imo, Turbo use should be avoided, because it creates excess heat. Turbo is for marketing and bragging rights, it is NOT sustainable, the thermal step down will quickly lower the output to a sustainable level.

I prioritize using my lights at Sustainable levels, usually medium or lower levels. Im not a Turbo fan at all. And I often read questions from new people about Why Turbo is not sustained, and Why their light gets dimmer after trying to use Turbo.

These people mistakenly assume that they can use maximum output all the time. This is because marketing promotes maximum output claims, without mentioning that it only lasts a few seconds.

So I have taken it upon myself to promote an AntiTurbo agenda. Way too many people read about High Discharge Rate batteries, and want to get the Most Output. This imnsho is very misguided.

Turbo is NOT a sustainable level. Chasing turbo leads to excess heat, and potential damage to the LEDs. Just say NO to High Drain and repeated and prolonged use of Turbo.

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So would you suggest not adjusting the thermal cap and voltage? I actually would consider replacing damaged LEDs in the future. I believe I’m technically inclined enough to learn that. That is something I’d prefer to prevent due to cost though.

Whether I adjust the thermals or not, I wouldn’t use it on turbo most of the time. I would simply rather have the option to operate at turbo without stepping down so quickly.

I also heard spamming the turbo (due to the quick stepdown) builds a lot of heat too, so it’s better to operate turbo without spamming. Increasing the thermal cap to 60°C is what I’ve heard on guides.

Again, I wouldn’t use turbo much. It definitely won’t be the primary mode I use. It’s more of having a functional and optimal turbo mode. Why bother having it if it steps down too quickly. I would prefer having a longer runtime at turbo if it’s within the capabilites of the LED and flashlight overall. Setting the cap to 60°C seems ok for the LED, would u disagree?

Edit: by thermal cap I mean the setting to trigger the step down.

I also plan to use the TS21 mostly on 5/7 give or take 1

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well. both ts21 that i got, had correct factory calibration of thermal sensor. i just checked it just in case and rose thermal cap, as u call it, to around 60.

 

 

this was the only change of setting that i did 

 

u likely can use ts21 as is without any changes, especially if u dont plan to go above 5/7

 

i only must mention that i got 5000 and 6500k.

if u bought 4000k, situation with heating may be worse

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I’m ordering 5000k.

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Jingling wrote:
I would simply rather have the option to operate at turbo without stepping down so quickly.
It is the nature of Turbo that it does step down quickly. Turbo is not a sustainable output.

A higher drain battery only changes how high the dive starts from. Raising the thermal step down raises the sustainable output, but does not make Turbo have a longer Runtime. Turbo will still be a rapidly dropping output.

the best way I can think of to illustrate that, is with a Runtime Curve, thanks to zeroair

looking at that chart, what I see is that the sustainable output is about 600-800 lumens. Anything above that will quickly fall back down, due to thermal step down.

here is his review, https://zeroair.org/2021/10/12/wurkkos-ts21-anduril-flashlight-review/#P...

no I do not think it is a good idea to use a battery that can make the light run hotter, no I dont think its a good idea to expect a Longer Turbo runtime, by increasing heat from battery, and by adjusting thermal step down to a higher number than 45C

And yes, I do think it is good to confirm the thermal sensor is properly calibrated, so that 45C is 45C. No I am not going to recommend running your light at 60C instead of 45C, on the mistaken assumption that this will create meaningfully longer runtime at Turbo, before step down. Look at the runtime chart.. and how the initial momentary maximum output is dropping like a lead balloon until it levels off at about 600 lumens.

just my opinion.. others will definitely differ

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Location: USA

Jingling, the stock Wurkkos 5000mAh seems ok, no complaints from me. I’ve been running 40T in mine mostly. Any of those will be just fine. If you happen to have access to the new Moli P42B I’d buy that in a heartbeat.

Turbo or higher drain batteries are not going to hurt this light one bit (nor will they hurt the vast majority of lights). Jon is over focusing on the new Wurkkos TS10 14500 light of which there appears to be exactly one failed unit thus far, and one emitter of the three crapped out (user was running H10 higher drain cells). We don’t know anything else yet and there’s not been a “forensic” breakdown to see if higher amps was the reason or not. Many others including myself are running the H10 in that light and using turbo and all seems fine so far…Wurkkos did purchase some H10 cells so they can test it themselves (nice of them…should have been done before releasing the light for sale, though…!). But those are very different smd emitters than what is in this light and nearly all the other lights we use. Our usual emitters are quite robust and hard to kill (in the flashlights that are sold…mods and homebuilt hotrods can be a different story).

I have the 4000K and use turbo frequently…heat isn’t such an issue, the same or less than other lights I own. Anduril lets you have control over your flashlight, and that includes “spamming” turbo if you want, but yeah, of course it’ll get hot and will continue heating up if you do that. That would be “misuse” of the light, so to speak. If you increase the temp limit then you also increase the heat/risk, but 60°C is still safe for the electronics, generally…most can take a lot more heat than that. 60°C may actually allow you to get mild first degree burns on your skin, however…the light body and battery tube probably won’t reach that temperature before the chip dims the output, but if you spam it then it certainly could. Keeping it at 50° is more sensible, some go 55° which is still pretty dang hot. For kids or muggles it’s often best to set the light lower, even as low as 40°.

High output lights rock…it is NICE to have that power available, and even nicer to have smart lights that will back it off as temperature increases. You don’t have to use it and it doesn’t have to be “sustainable” to be useful (or enjoyable). Not so useful indoors. I use it all the time when hiking and on the occasions where I need to visit our office building at night for security calls and such…much better to have it than be limited to a low sustainable output or a tighter throwier hotspot, and having that turbo blast in a compact form is great. Lets me have brief sunshine and keeps me safer at a distance. My turbo use is brief or brief-ish for lights like this and the rest of the time I use them at lower outputs just like most of us do. Don’t let anyone scare you into thinking turbo is bad or high drain batteries are bad or dangerous or will harm your light. Otherwise we’d still be stuck in 2010 and thankfully our lights have come a long way since then with more features and power that can be used if you want, or not.

benz
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Last seen: 2 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 07/03/2012 - 06:38
Posts: 212
Location: Perth, Western Australia

Does anyone know – are there any shops that are definitely only selling the V2 with powerbank feature? I am thinking of buying one but the powerbank feature is one of the selling points for me so I don’t want to risk receiving a V1.