It’s a Lumintop Tool AA Ti head on top of an earlyversion Eagletac D25a Ti body tube!!! :laughing: The threads lego together perfectly.
I swapped the emitter to an SST20 4000K 95 CRI FD2.
I also modded the tailcap with aux leds. They’re dim, but good enough to find the light in the dark.
Here’s a picture of the Lumintop Tool AA Ti (now with its original body), Eagletac D25a early version, Eagletac D25a revised version. All 3 lights have the same high CRI SST20s installed.
And here’s a picture of the Tool Ti AA next to the original version D25a:
The early version D25a in these pictures has been more extensively modded.
In addition to the lighted tailcap, I also replaced the driver with a Mountain 15mm driver with Guppydrv rev 1 firmware and a bleeder resistor.
I also replaced the stock star with a filed-down Noctigon. It is significantly brighter than the other 2 lights in these pictures, but also gets quite a bit hotter and can’t run as long at max power.
The lego’d light with the D25 body and Tool AA head is actually quite nice.
It looks really classy with the gold,
It solves the Tool AA’s bad clip,
It’s shorter than all of the other lights above without lego.
It tailstands better than with the Tool AA’s body.
Note that only the early version D25 body can lego with the Tool AA head. The revised version D25 reversed the threads with the head screwing into the body rather than the body screwing into the head.
The D25A is a classy light. Is that lego light your EDC?
Your post made me look around for a good price on a D25A. But I really like the deep carry clip on my thrunite T10. Do you find that the D25A clip is deep enough?
The D25A’s clip is not true deep carry, but it is pretty close. Maybe 5mm of the tail sticks out when it is clipped inside a pocket.
I don’t own a Thrunite T10, but looking at the picture it looks pretty similar to the Sofirn SP10, which has a much worse clip than the D25 and is less deep carry than the D25.
Personally, I think the D25 has one of the best stock clips out there. It’s comparable to the clips found on the Jetbeam RRT-01 and TCR-01, and the chrome clips found on earlier model Zebralights. The clip is very secure, while still being easy to get the light on or off the edge of a pocket with one hand.
I think the smaller Ti hosts are really appealing for modding. Unless you’re really aggressive with them, their battery types mostly negate the heat issues with Ti. It’s also a good excuse to go lower output, higher CRI - 219B, E21A, etc. type stuff.
When I built my D25C, I even knocked the driver down from 8*7138 to 6!
It’s just a shame the lack of good driver options in small sizes. I’d love to do a Klarus Mi7 Ti but I don’t know what I’d do for the driver.
One other nice thing about the D25 Ti series lights:
All of them can be modded to have lighted tailcaps.
Lighted tailcaps work fine with the stock driver. No bleed resistor necessary and the driver maintains full functionality.
Modding them to have lighted tailcaps isn’t too hard.
There is enough room on the switch PCB to solder a resistor and LED bridging between the contacts on either side of the switch.
Unscrew the tailcap and pull out the switch pcb. It should have a silver area on either side of the switch with green bare plastic in between.
If you see all silver, that simply means the switch wasn’t centered when it was soldered to the pcb. Desolder the switch and rotate it until you can see the 2 silver pads with green in between, then resolder it.
Bridging from one contact to the other on the pcb solder your choice of resistor and small colored LED.
Replace the metal washer with a transparent one. I didn’t have a suitable transparent one, but it took only 10 minutes to make one by chopping up a transparent plastic 2x18650 battery case with an x-acto knife.
The plastic washer will be thicker than the metal washer. This means the top of the switch button will be a bit too low for the rubber switch boot. Fix this by applying something to the top of the switch button. I used a small circle of 3M rubber grip tape. But if you don’t have that, a few layers of Gaffer’s tape or even masking tape will work.
Note that the LEDs in the lighted tailcap are operating on direct drive from the battery. Like the lighted tailcap that comes stock on the Lumintop Tool AA, they will only light up if you run the light on a li-ion cell. A regular AA cell doesn’t have enough voltage.
I never had that much appreciation for the tool (mainly because of the UI ) but with a new body it at least looks more appealing 