I’m not really happy with the color temperature of my V10R (cool white) and would like to swap it to a high CRI warm/neutral white instead whithout having to sacrifice too many lumens.
The emitter’s diameter including the PCB is 12.75 mm in case that helps.
What LED should I get to replace the current one knowing the above information?
Any xpg footprint emitter works. I suggest Nichia 219b or SST-20 4000K FD2.
You can either reflow the new emitter onto the stock star or purchase a different star and file it down to size.
My 10+ Ti looks like it has XM-L2, so the board would be 5050. I have stuff to swap it to 219B sw45k but haven’t gotten around to it yet.
Double-checked, indeed the Ti+ comes with XM-L2. So to swap to 3535 you’ll want a new board as well as reflector or TIR, there’s a few threads around with advice but I’m on mobile so I can’t find them right now.
Oh yeah. I forgot that. The V10 does come with an XML-2.
You can reflow a neutral tint SST-40 onto the stock star for substantially increased output (but low CRI and only 5000K), or you can install an XPG footprint star of your choice.
My recollection is that standard 16mm Noctigon stars work, but you have to file down the edges. Shouldn’t take more than half an hour with a handfile.
The V10r Ti+ reflector does not make a good beam w 219b (will try to find a pic), and the stock 5050 mcpcb is not compatible…
you can use a warm XM-L2 or switch mcpcb to use LH351d
the V10r Ti+ Reflector works much better w LH351d than with 219b or SST-20
because the base of the reflector has a hole that is too large for the small die LEDs… and results in a dark shadow ring in the spill… bad beam…
you can buy a 12mm 3535 board for LH351d here
there is no reflector upgrade available for Sunwayman Rotaries, that I know of
fwiw, the V11r and V10r Ti+ use the same reflector… I recently modded a V11r to LH351d 2700k… It turned out to have a really nice beam…
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I recommend that LED…. but dont shave it or you get the shadow ring again:
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here is the difference between the V10r Ti reflector, and the V11r/V10r Ti+ reflector:
(the centering rings are different too)
if you want to use 219b it can help to improve the beam if you lift the mcpcb on a 0.5mm shim (copper sheet, or thermal expoxy, or … I have also used thermal tape for that purpose)… you could also remove the stock centering ring and use a flat centering ring instead (its not an exact match to the reflector hole… getting the LED centered will require a little fiddling).
It is still possible to use sw45k and sw30 happily in a V10r Ti+… just dont be too critical when you shine the beam on a wall… 
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any 219b is better than no 219b… and LH351d in any other CCT than 2700K is not really as good as the 219b alternative, in my very pro 219b biased opinion… I only suggest LH351D Warm due to the larger face of the LH351d being a good match for the V10r Ti+ reflector. The 219b actually has higher R9 CRI than the LH351d. In addition to the LH351d having greener Tint.
fwiw, there is word of a 2700k 219b that has recently become available from Hank. its not listed… I have not tried it… you would need to email him…
why I love 219b tint more:
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Thanks for the comment, however there’s too much information on this thread and I’m not sure what to do with it so maybe this will help narrow it down a little bit:
Hopefully this helps.
this 12mm mcpcb fits your light
this 4000k LH351d LED is Neutral White and has high output with High CRI
ask them to put the LED on the mcpcb for you. if they say no… we can teach you how to reflow it yourself
Thanks for that!
Will try to source them from Aliexpress and reflow soldering should be a walk in the park as I have a temperature regulated hot air gun.
Might just need some help with finding the correct polarity.
Found the 4000k LH351d LED but will the 12mm model of this PCB work?
If so, I will order them right away as they will take a couple of months before they arrive.
Aluminum has poor thermal conductivity compared to copper, so make sure to get a mcpcb that is copper because this light has poor thermals. So no don’t buy that one.
Actually it probably won’t make much difference.
The greatly increased heat conduction of a DTP copper star helps a lot … in modern high-powered lights.
However, the V10 was designed back in the era when aluminum non-DTP stars were standard. It isn’t a high-power light and works just fine with an aluminum star. The light itself was designed to work with a relatively tiny aluminum non-DTP star.
It seems to make a difference, dedomed an emitter on mine after a mod and being reckless. But I doubt he would do that. But for the minimal cost it makes sense? I agree it probably won’t make a huge difference to him, but we have limited time to educate other fans so why not teach them the best methods since the cost difference is so minimal.
In a host that doesn’t have much mass you’re going to saturate quickly anyway and then it doesn’t matter much what the mcpcb is made of, and without a decent shelf it’s semi-moot anyway. But this light is bumping up against titanium so that makes the star matter even less. Double whammy for moving the heat away/out so it’s a good thing it’s a low-powered driver and a star is a star is a star as far as this is concerned. This is like when we hit the wall with an S2 host and what it’s capable of…at a certain point you just need to accept that lower current is best, a host change is needed, or run it hot and plan on early replacements. I run copper stars on everything mostly because they’re cheap and solderable if need be, but for many lights I know it doesn’t really make much difference at all.
You’re right and I would definitely buy copper over aluminum any day of the week however, that seems to be the only option I have found so far on Aliexpress.
Actually, aluminum is better at dissipating the heat whereas copper has more thermal mass which extends the duty cycle of a light however as others have mentioned, it doesn’t really matter in this case since the body is low in mass and titanium is a relatively bad conductor of heat any way so there is no real benefit to going for copper in this case as the heat will remain trapped inside the light.
Compared to the same volume of aluminum, Copper can hold more heat. Copper also conducts heat better than aluminum, which is why copper is the preferred material to have against your LED. In high-powered lights a copper star may allow an LED to withstand substantially more current before overheating.
Dark colored anodized aluminum has higher emissivity than polished copper. Meaning it is more efficient at radiating heat to atmosphere. But that is a non-issue when the copper is an internal part whose only avenue to release its heat is conduction to surrounding parts.
Because the V10R Ti is so low-powered, a copper star would probably not provide any increase in performance over an aluminum star.
Also, I do not recall how thick the stock star is in the V10. However, if the new star is a lot thicker this could cause issues when screwing the head back on. If the star prevents the head from screwing down as far, a gap may be created between the control ring and the head.
I will measure the thickness of both the stock star and the new one with my digital calipers to make sure they are the same thickness and if the the new one is thicker, I will sand it down until it is the same thickness as the stock one and if it turns out to be thinner, I could use a copper shim underneath it to get the led’s height right.