"(PRE)VIEW" – Lumintop FW1AA (Sample)

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Firelight2
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Size is an issue.

The chargers in 14500 batteries reduce battery capacity to make room for the charger. Or they use oversized extra long cells.

Also, chargers in batteries don’t need waterproof ports to get access to the outside of a light.

pinkpanda3310
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@Lumen9000 Yes but complexity is an issue. Have you actually drawn it to see how the connections would actually work? I think not. Adding a charging port ANYWHERE on the fwxxx lights will be a challenge to even those that can engineer

  

Lumen9000
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Firelight2 wrote:
Lumen9000 wrote:

Doesn’t have to be harder than this:https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/d25l-headlamp-lh351d-90-high-cri-40...

And then you don’t have to buy proprietary chargeable batteries with lower capacity either.


Or you can use a separate charger and always have a spare fully-charged battery ready to swap in. No need to set the light aside and not use it for hours while a battery is recharging inside the light.

The method of covering the USB slot in that headlamp is a good one. It avoids the breakable rubber cover most rechargeable lights have. Unfortunately, that design is not so easy to implement in an FW series light. The separate inner tube used as the switch contact gets in the way.

It is possible implement such a system, but doing so would require a major redesign. You’d end up with a completely different and substantially larger light that probably looks nothing like the existing prototype FW1AA.

Personally, I’m happy the FW1AA does not have charging in it. I consider built-in chargers a negative and never use them.

  • I can’t use a light with internal charging while it is plugged in. I prefer to swap in spare batteries so I can continue to use the light while charging externally. And for anyone who says, “the light will still work while plugged in”, that doesn’t cut it for me. When I’m using my light I want to be able to take it more than a meter from my wall outlet.
  1. We probably all have more than one flashlight in this forum.. And it makes it a ton easier to top up in the car or at work
  • Most USB-C lights only have USB-A to USB-C charging. They mostly lack true USB-C, meaning I can’t just plug in my Samsung phone or ipad charger cable. In order to use the charger I have to carry a separate cord and wall wart for them. I have several lights with USB-C chargers in them, but only one of them is actually true USB-C (Sofirn SC21).
  1. All newer lights seem to come with true USB-C, IF22A has it as well
  • Chargers add more complexity. It’s something else to break. And depending on how the port is handled it frequently allows for water ingress. A rubber charging port cover can also sometimes be confused with a rubber button making finding the right thing to press a little harder.
  1. *It does, but it’s easy enough to build into small 14500 batteries today.. *
  • Chargers require space inside the light and on the surface. The length isn’t a big deal for big lights, but is quite noticeable in small lights. A small light with a charger is usually larger or thicker than the same light could be made without the charger.
  1. Sofirn would have saved more in space implementing a TIR on the SC21, than skipping charging i guess
  • The presence of a charger may drive up the price. Why pay extra for what I consider a useless function. It’s like paying extra for a bidirectional clip I do not need, never use, and that functions worse than a normal clip.
  1. *The SC21 is cheap enough at 20 bucks, i dont see an issue here. It’s commoddity parts today and it’s quite a must if im buying a light. Lumintops are not on my list atm, the look nice, but lacks charging. *

That’s my perspective based on my preferences and how I use my lights. Each of us has our own perspective. Some really love onboard chargers.

Firelight2
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Now that I think about it, here is one way it might be done:

Swap the threads on the head from female to male. Result is the body tube would be much longer, while the inner tube remained short. To prevent the inner tube from coming out of position it would lock at the tail.

With these changes, partially unscrewing the head from the body would reveal threads on the head right over the driver. Just add a slot in the threads for the charging port and it should work fine.

The driver would need a separate sandwich layer for the charger though, and the light might need to be slightly wider to maintain same width in the driver compartment. Figure the entire light might be 5mm longer and 2mm wider at the head, but otherwise look the same from the outside.

pinkpanda3310
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@Firelight the driver would need to be smaller diameter plus it’d need to be glue in place since a retaining ring will no longer work (with the inner tube)

  

Firelight2
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Could make the entire head slightly wider rather than the driver narrower. Or just make a narrower driver since the driver would need to be completely redesigned anyways.

The driver does not need to be glued. Press fit into the head would work fine, just like in the Egletac D25a.

However, also like the D25a, some threadlocker would be needed on the bezel threads to ensure the bezel doesn’t accidentally unscrew during battery changes.

pinkpanda3310
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Making the entire head wider makes more sense because the driver cannot be any narrower than the inner tube. Something has got to give

  

thefreeman
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Maybe it would be possible to use the signal tube to carry the + input for the charging circuit and put a magnetic port at the tail, with some serious miniaturisation on the driver to fit the charging circuit.

pinkpanda3310
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So the sleeve carries (-) for driver UI and (+) for charging…? What happens if you accidentally press the tail button while it’s charging?

  

thefreeman
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Hmm, yeah, I didn’t think about that, it would just short the USB I think ? It seems that a proper USB source should have a short circuit protection but it would not be good practice to rely on that.

Haukkeli
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Why is there always tube in these kind of lights? Isn’t the tube just for switch signal? It could be any shape that takes less space inside flashlight body. Maybe little groove that takes anodised piece of aluminium from tail to driver. Of course that would need precise machining, but should be doable with modern tools.

pinkpanda3310
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How exactly would it contact? Remember at least one end needs to ‘screw’ open to change the battery.

My thoughts are one of two things will happen 1- poor reliability 2- problems contacting outer tube when screwing the light together

  

Haukkeli
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Same way as it would with inner tube. Battery would sit in actual flashlight boby and on one side next to battery there would be this separate “rail” in small groove with unanodized heads. Size savings aren’t big, but they can matter with millimetre game.

pinkpanda3310
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So it would be point loading the threads? Like tightening a nut and bolt with a pebble jammed in one side? Something like that would also point load the contact board in the tail so a ~0.5mm washer would need to be soldered over the contract on the board to deal with the constant wear.

  

Haukkeli
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Something like that. It could even have small spring effect so that it provides better contact. Like spring steel.

pinkpanda3310
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That sounds doable. The outside edge on tail cap can screw hard up against the body to keep even pressure on the threads and the contact rod can slide easy but still make good contact. The rod would need to be a little thick for rigidity to hold it’s shape/ position in the groove though which again adds diameter to the body. Alternatively drilling a tiny hole the length of the body would be difficult to machine… but that also adds some diameter

  

jon_slider
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Lumen9000 wrote:
They build in charging in 14500 batteries… Size is not an issue.
you are certainly entitled to wish for on board charging. Since it is not there, I suggest an alternative…

The Olight Universal Charger.. It has the convenience of USB, small size, works on both Eneloop and Any Size LiIon.

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