Convoy S11 driver replacement issue... lead free solder?

My driver failed and Simon sent me a new one. I replaced it the other day and it was not as easy as a normal replacement. Typical heavy Convoy mcpcb in a light with good heat transfer, so used a good iron, got it hot and the darn old solder would not flow! I normally get the old solder fluid and add a bit of new solder to wet the joint, pull the wire and suck off the excess. I could not get all of the old stuff off to save my soul! It was also tough to get the new solder on, same 63/37 I have used for years…

Was this some kind of lead free solder and what do I need to do differently to deal with it? It seamed to take more heat to accomplish anything useful with the old solder as well. I was using my normal 80 watt iron and normal fat tip for mcpcb work, have done this process at least 150 times, this is the first time I have had such a fight.

Maybe break out a mini file and rough up a spot and add flux to keep that bare spot wet under flux before soldering. Tin then flux again >. Just spitballing

May have to try that next time… This was a first time for this problem… the darn stuff did not want to melt and did not want to stay melted. Was running the iron at 825F!

Lift the MCPCB by placing something under it, a piece of toothpick, a bent paperclip, whatever can fit and thermally decouple the MCPCB from the body.

Another trick is to use BiSn to lower the melting temperature.

Edit : Ah also too high heat burns the flux and renders it useless.

I have not tried solders other than tin/lead, I am in my late 50’s and have used the alloy for so many years that it is second nature and provides great joints. When I do a swap, I always go for the shortest wires I can get, many times up gauging in the process… did that here as well. If I have to open this one up again… I may just make the wires a little longer and to just that as I am not very happy with the solder joints. They are not pretty, but they do seem strong.

With very short wires I make hooks with 0.2mm nickel strips and slide them under the MCPCB, any sort of gap cuts the thermal path.