Overview: Dual-Channel Emisar D4SV2 + The Latest Firmware Features

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LuxWad
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Overview: Dual-Channel Emisar D4SV2 + The Latest Firmware Features

There’s been a lot of excitement over the new dual-channel Emisar lights over the past few weeks. This video serves as a quick overview of the lights and their features, with an explanation of the operation + plenty of beamshots.

The video features two Emisar D4SV2 lights, one with Nichia 219b SW27/SW45K, and one with Cree XP-L HD/Osram CSLNM1 (“W1”) emitters. The same driver and features are also available on the D4V2 and the KR4.

This is actually the second (updated) version of this video, featuring some of ToyKeeper’s latest improvements to Anduril 2, which allows for both channel-switching and tint-ramping operation in the same firmware, a big change to the previous versions which were only one or the other. There are a few more changes in Anduril itself. There is also the official user manual, which covers all the features of Anduril 2.

The most significant changes:

  • Before, there were two seperate builds for either the tint-ramping or channel-switching functions, but they are now both available in the same build.
  • Turbo has also been improved, now running both channels @ 100% in either switching or ramping operation.

Some of the recent changes (per ToyKeeper):

ToyKeeper wrote:

Ramp stuff

  • Better low + high modes
    • Smoother, slower ramp on lowest levels (uses pulse frequency modulation combined with pulse width modulation to get higher resolution while generating control voltage signals for the current regulator)
    • Faster moon activation from off, with adjustable “jump start” correction factor.
    • Eliminated (or at least greatly reduced) audible sound when DD FET is at 50% power on Linear+DDFET lights.
  • Faster auto-reverse on 1H for ramping up/down, because the old timing was too slow.
  • More configurable options
    • Smooth ramp speed (can slow it down)
    • Choose whether hold-from-off should ramp up or stay at moon
    • Select turbo style, one setting for Simple UI and one for Advanced UI. Three styles available:
      • No turbo: hard limit at ceiling
      • Anduril 1 style: 2C while on goes to full power
      • Anduril 2 style: 2C while on goes to ceiling, unless ramped up to ceiling first, which would go to full power

Misc stuff

  • Auto-lock can work in Simple UI if configured that way.
  • Easier to enter large numbers in config menus. During a number entry prompt, click for +1, or hold for +10.
  • Faster thermal regulation on 3-channel lights like D4Sv2 (FET+3+1) and D18 (FET+13+1).
  • Made party strobe flashes more consistent.
  • Fixed corner cases in hybrid memory (manual memory with a timer).

Tint ramping…

  • Support for tint ramping on D4S and KR4. Can also work on K9.3 and D4.
  • Allows “200% power” turbo with both tints running at 100%. The color space for this is shown below, shaped like a house. Can also use DD FET on one channel, but it’s usually not a visible difference.
  • User can choose tint-ramp or tint-toggle. It’s in the hardware-specific config menu (Advanced mode Off 9H).
  • Fixed occasional flicker on inactive tint channel.
  • Enabled middle tint at moon level.


The tint-ramp code uses a somewhat new color model, which was necessary to accommodate the “200% power” turbo thing. It was a 2D square before, with tint and brightness working independently, and an “auto” mode at each end of the tint ramp. Now there’s a triangular section on top, because when it’s too bright, tint and brightness can’t be independent any more. It’s shaped like a house:

In most models, the ramp is set up like this…

1 to 130: 0 to 100% regulated power 131 to 150: 101% to 200% regulated power 141 to 150: DD FET ramps up from 0 to full power (on some models)

The “attic” and “roof” area is very short, because it is only really meant as a turbo mode. It’s not sustainable without holding ice against the light.

The D4S and D4 are using the same firmware, while the KR4 uses its own build. The software is of course available from ToyKeeper’s site:
https://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/

D4SV2 & D4VS:
0135 emisar-d4sv2-tintramp
0136 emisar-d4sv2-tintramp-fet

KR4:
0215 noctigon-kr4-tintramp

There is a tint-ramp build available for the K9.3 as well, though things don’t seem to be finalized there yet.

Edited by: LuxWad on 11/23/2021 - 23:12
Lumen9000
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Between the d4 and kr4, which has the best cooling capabilities and runtimes?

fogofwar
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Thanks LuxWad

pennzy
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Another great video. Man, all those choices are a little intimidating.

LuxWad
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pennzy wrote:
Man, all those choices are a little intimidating.

Haha yeah, there’s so many options it’s very difficult to choose a configuration!

Lumen9000 wrote:
Between the d4 and kr4, which has the best cooling capabilities and runtimes?

The KR4 has slightly better thermals, but the advantage is mostly ergonomics since the switch is at the tail, away from the heat in the head. The output and runtimes will be the same

Lumen9000
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LuxWad wrote:
pennzy wrote:
Man, all those choices are a little intimidating.

Haha yeah, there’s so many options it’s very difficult to choose a configuration!

Lumen9000 wrote:
Between the d4 and kr4, which has the best cooling capabilities and runtimes?

The KR4 has slightly better thermals, but the advantage is mostly ergonomics since the switch is at the tail, away from the heat in the head. The output and runtimes will be the same

So, mostly an estetic preference then, thank you!

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Good review, as usual, LuxWad. I picked up both a D4SV2 and a KR4 with 2700k/4500k 219b. The beam is extra nice and rosy jon_slider is going to love it. The new features in Andruil 2 are awesome, you did a great job ToyKeeper!

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Good video. I will have to share this as questions come up from others. I think a lot of people will find it helpful.

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This is awesome. Thanks for sharing, LuxWad.

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Thank you LuxWad. I’m very excited!

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Great review!

I purchased one with the warmest and coolest available SST-20s in it for tint ramping.

I’m tempted to order another for dual-channel use with one throwy LED such as White 1, and a more diffuse LED such as Nichia 219B or LH351D.

zoulas
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Nice video. Unfortunately, the overly complex UI will be even more complex now.

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I’m thinking 3500k nichia and w1 osram. Is this stupid? I’m thinking super nice beautiful beam for one channel nice throwy beam for the other channel and I’m hoping combining the two will give me some decent tint ramping is that feasible or is the low CRI of the W1 going to make the beam look grimy?

dario carafa

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Dizzydj1 wrote:
I’m thinking 3500k nichia and w1 osram. Is this stupid? I’m thinking super nice beautiful beam for one channel nice throwy beam for the other channel and I’m hoping combining the two will give me some decent tint ramping is that feasible or is the low CRI of the W1 going to make the beam look grimy?

I’ve got W1’s and SST20 4000K’s.

I find tint ramping to be almost entirely useless with this emitter configuration. It’s great when you’ve got the same emitter in different color temperatures, but with different emitters and beam profiles the ramping just isn’t useful.

Instant switching is much more useful. I sanded the face of my optic over the SST20’s with high grit sandpaper to make them more floody, and now I can instant switch between throw and flood. I highly recommend a setup like this.

The Nichia 219B 3500K’s you’re considering would be a fine choice. They’ll look nicer than the SST20’s I’ve got. You might even consider a 2700K/4500K tint mix on your flood channel to get some extra-rosiness.

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I have two tint-ramping lights that use high-CRI for the warm LEDs and low-CRI for the cool white leds (FW4X, and Sofirn IF25).

It actually works great. The low-CRI isn’t that noticeable except at the coolest end of the spectrum.

A larger issue might be the different beam patterns, since w1 is throwier than Nichia. But I think it would probably work ok. Main thing is most of your tint ramping will be in the center of your hotspot.

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Thanks for the input. I might just have to get five or six of these lights and try out a whole bunch of configurations Big Smile

dario carafa

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Dizzydj1 wrote:
Thanks for the input. I might just have to get five or six of these lights and try out a whole bunch of configurations Big Smile

That’s a lot easier then deciding on 1. Whatever I choose I’m pretty certain to have a case of buyers regret. I may end up with at least 2. Too many choices and possibilities.

I feel sorry for people who don't have a hobby or interest to escape to.

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Which do you think you’ll end up getting first?

dario carafa

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Notmyrealname wrote:
Dizzydj1 wrote:
Thanks for the input. I might just have to get five or six of these lights and try out a whole bunch of configurations :D
That's a lot easier then deciding on 1. Whatever I choose I'm pretty certain to have a case of buyers regret. I may end up with at least 2. Too many choices and possibilities.

 

Buyers remorse is built into  having  so many choices .....

 

The only bad decision is not buying one 

 Tint ramping and dual channel is a game changer .

                 υμεις εστε το φως του κοσμου ου δυναται πολις κρυβηναι επανω ορους κειμενη

                            Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

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 Soo, is the driver still the good ol' FET + N linear regulators.. ? Or is it now finally an efficient buck ? (which would be my only incentive to buy this light for the 3rd time.. Flat Stare )

 

Also, too bad the side switch only has a single color option and not much practical use (all I care is for the "AUX" LED's to move from the business end into the switch to indicate stuff like the batt lvl.)

I would go Sofirn style on the indicator switch light which stays on for ~5 sec. when light is powered on indicating the batt. lvl. in a red <to> green "spectrum" (red > orange > yellow > lime > green)

I would use the "extra" Blue color as an indicator aid while navigating menus instead or along with the main emitters "buzz" (also maybe even use it as a switch "beacon"/"locator" as other lights)

Basically I'd remove the possibility to blind oneself while playing with the AUX lights which are now on the same side as the.. business.. "blinding end" and use the powers of RGB to do.. practical stuff

To me the AUX lights as they are implemented right now are just a gimmick and serve no practical purpose than.. well, "Auxiliary drain" LOL and maybe a bit of fun for 5 minutes when you first get the light.

 

Cheers!

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I like the aux LEDs on my D4v2 lights. I use them on the “dim” setting. They’re very helpful for finding the light at night when it is used as a bedside light.

However, I agree it would be really nice if the switch light used multi-colored LEDs, turned to high-brightness when the light was on, and changed color to indicate battery charge level at least while the light is on.

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I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I’m wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.

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Lumen9000 wrote:
I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I’m wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.

You are correct. One of the settings for the aux colored LEDs under the bezel is to have them change colors based on battery voltage.

However, this function does not work with the aux LEDs under the switch. The switch LEDs are monochrome and do not change color.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Lumen9000 wrote:
I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I’m wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.

You are correct. One of the settings for the aux colored LEDs under the bezel is to have them change colors based on battery voltage.

However, this function does not work with the aux LEDs under the switch. The switch LEDs are monochrome and do not change color.


Except for k1 which has RGB.. don’t know if it’s a software issue or a hardware one.
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Lumen9000 wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Lumen9000 wrote:
I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I’m wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.

You are correct. One of the settings for the aux colored LEDs under the bezel is to have them change colors based on battery voltage.

However, this function does not work with the aux LEDs under the switch. The switch LEDs are monochrome and do not change color.


Except for k1 which has RGB.. don’t know if it’s a software issue or a hardware one.

I think it is hardware. I think the LEDs under the D4V2’s switch are monochrome. It’s why the purchaser has to choose their color at the time of purchase.

Updating the switch light to full color but that would likely require a redesign of the switch PCB and possible more wires to the switch. There might also be an issue of needing an additional output from the MCU if the switch light is to perform differently than the bezel backlight.

Hopefully, Hank will do that for the next version…. Silly

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Lumen9000 wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Lumen9000 wrote:
I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I’m wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.

You are correct. One of the settings for the aux colored LEDs under the bezel is to have them change colors based on battery voltage.

However, this function does not work with the aux LEDs under the switch. The switch LEDs are monochrome and do not change color.


Except for k1 which has RGB.. don’t know if it’s a software issue or a hardware one.

Both, bit not necessarily an issue. It’s just the design choices that were made based on the judgement of those doing the work (Toykeeper and Hank).

If everything fits, RGB LED’s could be installed in the switch recess, and the existing outputs from the driver could be wired to the switch, probably even in parallel with front aux board. However, the D4 switch recess is pretty tight. Also, you would need a new PCB for the RGB switch LED’s versus single color.

If you want them to behave different than the front aux LED’s currently do, such as only being illuminated for 5 seconds when the light is turned on, that requires a customized version of Anduril. Since it is open source, those inclined to learn Python can do it themselves. Otherwise it’s not likely to happen unless someone else with the knowledge how to do it puts the time into it.

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Lumen9000 wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Lumen9000 wrote:
I believe there is a function in anduril they tells you the battery status with the help of the aux LEDs. Please tell me If I'm wrong. But I think I read something about that just the other day.
You are correct. One of the settings for the aux colored LEDs +under the bezel+ is to have them change colors based on battery voltage. However, this function does not work with the aux LEDs +under the switch+. The switch LEDs are monochrome and do not change color.
Except for k1 which has RGB.. don't know if it's a software issue or a hardware one.

 

Yes, it's the mode in which I always keep my AUX lights (edited Anduril with my own colors in only R to G spectrum)

But.. I always keep my Emisars with the AUX LED's Off.. because I'm usually of the "set and forget" mindset.

 

If the K1 has RGB switch Indicator LED's I can only assume that they are exactly what I'm after (hardware wise) just not in the right light. The K1 simply didn't had a front facing placement for the LED's because.. well, huge Al reflector and all.. But yep, all in all they're basically the regular D4's AUX LED's physically moved under the switch and as such, they should behave the same exact way as those, so, yes, that's a definite improvement. The only thing left would be to have the R to G colors for batt. status and the B color for.. indicating stuff.. And yep, I believe it's just a software matter in that light.

 

Firelight2 wrote:
I like the aux LEDs on my D4v2 lights. I use them on the "dim" setting. They're very helpful for finding the light at night when it is used as a bedside light. However, I agree it would be really nice if the switch light used multi-colored LEDs, turned to high-brightness when the light was on, and changed color to indicate battery charge level at least while the light is on.

 

Thing is, I use to sit all my lights on their front bezel (that reminds me why I love SS crenelated bezels.. ) and as such, I would not really see the AUX lights even in the dark, especially with the D4's smooth bezels.

I just got used to do it this way as the bezel is the most wide part of the body as a general rule, many times is scratch resistant and another general rule is that many lights will roll if set on a side.. So, to enforce my "set and forget" rule, if the majority of lights will roll on a side, will more likely scratch on a side, etc. etc. etc. I found the best consensus to be front end = light comes out, (and that is lots of light, dangerous light to one's retina, thus keep away from view - And yes, if anyone has to ask, I did, accidentally.. blasted these things right into my eyes.. one too many times Flat Stare ) set the light on this side, (as it's the most stable and also protects the lens) and side switch = interact & indicate (tail stand, on a side, on the bezel, regardless which is it, the light coming from it will never be potentially completely blocked)

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So which models still retain the Fet for turbo and a 5 or better 9A regulated mode? Is there a chart?

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maxchaos92 wrote:
So which models still retain the Fet for turbo and a 5 or better 9A regulated mode? Is there a chart?

K9.3 is the only 2-channel model from Hank that has FET enabled. The others all have FET drive disabled in their firmware, but it can be re-enabled (on channel 1 only) via a firmware reflash.

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
maxchaos92 wrote:
So which models still retain the Fet for turbo and a 5 or better 9A regulated mode? Is there a chart?

K9.3 is the only 2-channel model from Hank that has FET enabled. The others all have FET drive disabled in their firmware, but it can be re-enabled (on channel 1 only) via a firmware reflash.

Thanks you very much!!! Do you know if the 9A driver are 9A per Channel or only per driver?

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maxchaos92 wrote:
tactical_grizzly wrote:
maxchaos92 wrote:
So which models still retain the Fet for turbo and a 5 or better 9A regulated mode? Is there a chart?

K9.3 is the only 2-channel model from Hank that has FET enabled. The others all have FET drive disabled in their firmware, but it can be re-enabled (on channel 1 only) via a firmware reflash.

Thanks you very much!!! Do you know if the 9A driver are 9A per Channel or only per driver?

All 2-channel hanklights (except K9.3) are 9A per channel with most emitters. If you choose 219B’s on one channel, that channel will be 5A. If you choose E21A’s, each channel will be 3.8A (because you have to get E21A’s on both channels).

K9.3 is the exception, because it comes with 9A+FET drive on channel 1 and 5A drive on channel 2, unless you get E21A’s on channel 1, then it’s limited to 9A on channel 1.

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