New Emisar Tint-Ramping flashlights available!

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Firelight2
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New Emisar Tint-Ramping flashlights available!

International Outdoor just released versions of many of their flashlights with Anduril 2 and TINT RAMPING!!!!! Love Love Love LOL

The models now available with tint ramping include:

  • D4V2
  • KR4
  • D4S V2
  • D4V2 Ti
  • KR4 Ti

As is customary for International Outdoor, you can customize your light. You can choose the emitters for both channels, and in the sideswitch models the switch backlight.

It’s really nice that they’ve made tint ramping available in their smaller lights. It’s a great feature.

Edited by: Firelight2 on 11/11/2021 - 19:43
jon_slider
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cool
I put one in my cart, and its less than 100 for a Ti light.. would be my first Emissar

does ramping mean 2 led on, 2 off, at the endpoints

is the ramping a few discrete mode steps, or a smooth, gradient change?

iamlucky13
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Jon, check out the video explanation LuxWad produced here:

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79746

Firelight2
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This will be my first Anduril 2 tint-ramping light. But my recollection from reading about it is it should be smooth (just like with the Sofirn IF25).

I selected SST20 2700K on one channel and 6500K on the other channel. I chose aluminum as I find my Titanium D4 too heavy to EDC.

At the warmest setting only the 2700K should be lit. Then as you ramp up the tint it should shift gradually to cooler until only the 6500K are lit. Basically you should be able to smoothly ramp it up and down, just like you would with overall output.

In the middle of the ramp, both are lit. And I believe with Anduril overall light output is at max at that point.

Mark M
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jon_slider wrote:
cool
I put one in my cart, and its less than 100 for a Ti light.. would be my first Emissar

does ramping mean 2 led on, 2 off, at the endpoints

is the ramping a few discrete mode steps, or a smooth, gradient change?

Get the 2700k/4500k 219b you are going to love it jon_slider.

Rdubya18
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My wallet hurts. Love

jon_slider
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yes my cart has the 219b combo
raised bezel, short tube, pocket clip, and amber switch light

the video mentions a really nice feature
tint ramping tied to brightess ramping..

still resisting clicking buy… Wink
you guys are not helping me keep my wallet shut.. lol

Question about UI
Does it still double blink in mid ramp when it switches to FET like my FWAA (I hate gratuitous blinkies)

do I need the flashing kit to kill the double blink?
will it work with my iMac?

Gunga
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I ordered tint ramping 219B, 2700/4500. Raised switch, warm white switch Led. I hope the warm white is not too bright.

The Whispering ...
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Can’t decide if I want 219b 2700k/4500k or 219b 4500k and W2. I feel like the novelty of tint ramping will wear off but the 219b/W2 combo will be more useful.

How is the tint of the 219b 4500k that Hank has?

iamlucky13
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jon_slider wrote:
the video mentions a really nice feature tint ramping tied to brightess ramping..

It’s a neat idea, although I don’t find myself using it very often on my LT1, because the regular control is so simple that I just stick with choosing my color temperature manually. Also, I tend to prefer to stay on the warm end of the CCT range with that lantern. I could see my preference being different with a D4 and 2700K-4500K 219b mix.

jon_slider wrote:
Question about UI Does it still double blink in mid ramp when it switches to FET like my FWAA (I hate gratuitous blinkies)

If I remember right, the basic FET+1 version of the D4v2 does still have the subtle blink mid-ramp to users identify the transition in channels, but the linear constant current driver used for E21A versions, and I’m pretty sure the tint ramping version, does not have a blink.

Gunga wrote:
I ordered tint ramping 219B, 2700/4500. Raised switch, warm white switch Led. I hope the warm white is not too bright.

The switch will be in the same high or low mode as the front aux LED’s.

jon_slider
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iamlucky13 wrote:
I’m pretty sure the tint ramping version, does not have a blink.

thanks, very helpful

running out of prepurchase objections.. lol
wallet cringes

Sillen
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Tint ramping, like “the interwet”, will never catch on.

But seriously, what’s the point? Instead of doing one thing well you’ll have a torch that does two things mediocre. I didn’t watch LuxWads videos, am I missing something?

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Sillen wrote:
Tint ramping, like “the interwet”, will never catch on.

But seriously, what’s the point? Instead of doing one thing well you’ll have a torch that does two things mediocre. I didn’t watch LuxWads videos, am I missing something?


It’s just something to keep flashlight enthusiasts with too much expendable income amused.
Firelight2
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Ack… buyer’s remorse!

I ordered D4V2 with 2700K and 6500K SST-20.

… but now I wonder if maybe I should have ordered it with 2700K LH351D and 6000K Oslon White 2. That way in addition to tint mixing it would also have flood for close range and spot for long range.

Aaaaagh! Shocked

Pavlo
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Firelight2 wrote:
Ack… buyer’s remorse!

I ordered D4V2 with 2700K and 6500K SST-20.

… but now I wonder if maybe I should have ordered it with 2700K LH351D and 6000K Oslon White 2. That way in addition to tint mixing it would also have flood for close range and spot for long range.

Aaaaagh! Shocked

W2 and LH351d would not tint mix well due to very different beam profiles.

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Sillen wrote:
Tint ramping, like “the interwet”, will never catch on.

But seriously, what’s the point? Instead of doing one thing well you’ll have a torch that does two things mediocre. I didn’t watch LuxWads videos, am I missing something?

It doesn’t do anything worse though ? You still have a quad emitter light with the same power capabilities (turbo is mid tint but I don’t think the tint matters much in turbo).
The manufacturing cost should be probably less than 2$ higher, Hank charge +3.6$ for the tint ramping D4v2, which is quite reasonable.

An advantage is the improved tint for a good part of the tint ramp for people who dislike greenish tints, this was already possible by requesting two different CCTs, but now the tint is adjustable.

For different emitters (instant switching) , for example flood and throw emitters, I would tend to agree, since it’s then a 2 emitters flood, 2 emitters throw light and won’t have the same turbo throw capabilities as a 4 throwy emitters light

zoulas
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Oh well, just may have to buy them all again. This is what companies need to do in terms of thinking out of the box. Making a brighter flashlight just does not cut it anymore.

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I often carry different color temps throughout the day. Sst-20 4000k is nice right after the sun goes down. Then 2700k when it gets real dark. Mixing in the 2000k e21a did wonders for my sleep cycle.

Can’t wait for tint ramping dt8 in e21a. It would replace several lights.

Pavlo
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PyriteParachute wrote:
I often carry different color temps throughout the day. Sst-20 4000k is nice right after the sun goes down. Then 2700k when it gets real dark. Mixing in the 2000k e21a did wonders for my sleep cycle.

Can’t wait for tint ramping dt8 in e21a. It would replace several lights.

A DT8 with Tint Ramping E21a 2000K and 5000K mix is exactly what I am waiting for.

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Pavlo wrote:
W2 and LH351d would not tint mix well due to very different beam profiles.

Furthermore, W2 is under-driven in these 2 channel lights. W1 is a much better choice for throw, especially considering that you have a whole separate channel for flood.

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Has hank mentioned 26800?

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I’m viewing KR4 only in Ti + Cu. Do customers have to request aluminum version Al + Cu with tint ramping?

Firelight2
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Kona G wrote:
I’m viewing KR4 only in Ti + Cu. Do customers have to request aluminum version Al + Cu with tint ramping?

Check the link in the first post. There is a different picture to click on for the aluminum version.
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Thanks! Right in front of me..

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Depending on the emitters it`s like having flood and throw in one light.
I just ordered one in stonewashed Ti.

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
Pavlo wrote:
W2 and LH351d would not tint mix well due to very different beam profiles.

Furthermore, W2 is under-driven in these 2 channel lights. W1 is a much better choice for throw, especially considering that you have a whole separate channel for flood.

You have to keep in mind though that underdriven Leds are very efficient. You’ll get 2500 total lumens or so from two W2s at 9A while you’ll push 1800 with two W1s. I’m personally willing to sacrifice the 20% less throw for 40% more lumens.

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fogofwar wrote:
tactical_grizzly wrote:
Pavlo wrote:
W2 and LH351d would not tint mix well due to very different beam profiles.

Furthermore, W2 is under-driven in these 2 channel lights. W1 is a much better choice for throw, especially considering that you have a whole separate channel for flood.

You have to keep in mind though that underdriven Leds are very efficient. You’ll get 2500 total lumens or so from two W2s at 9A while you’ll push 1800 with two W1s. I’m personally willing to sacrifice the 20% less throw for 40% more lumens.

Where are you getting the 2500 total lumens from? Do you have a link to an output chart for W2’s I can look at? I’ve been looking periodically for several months but all I’ve been able to find is a graph for CSLNM1.

fogofwar
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This is the thread:

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/63255

Here is the relevant graph for your convenience:

fogofwar
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I typically use my lights outside and I prefer lumen driven candela (meaning high candela generated from sheer lumens) and sustainably high lumens. One of my favorite lights is the Mateminco MT04 with 4*SST40. It does 7000 lumens and 50k candela despite not being designed for throw.

will34
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Which LED would be a good pairing with the W1 or W2?

I’m looking for high lumen + throw CW and a not so floody NW (LH351D not a choice).

Don’t think I would be mixing them so different beam profile would not be an issue, instead I would simply switch between the channels.

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fogofwar wrote:
I’m personally willing to sacrifice the 20% less throw for 40% more lumens.

I did some quick math to get an estimate. In the KR1, the W1 model gets 110 kcd at 5A, while the W2 model gets 100 kcd at 7.5A. In Hank’s four-LED tint-ramp lights, power is the same for either emitter type, so lux per Amp seems like the relevant value. That puts the W1 at about 65% more lux per Amp than W2.

Meanwhile, with two W1 driven at 4.5A each, total output is about 1800 lumens, while W2 gets about 2500 lumens. That’s about ~40% more photons, which is a big boost if you’re ceiling-bouncing the light.

If I did the math right, the W2 hotspot should look about 50% wider than W1, but only 60% as bright. Illuminating something to the same lux would take about 65% more power, and would have about 60% as much runtime, and would bump into thermal regulation sooner. Like, if W1 got 5 hours of runtime, W2 would get 3 hours at the same lux.

So for this range of lights, most people go with W1 as the throwy option.

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