DIY help with failed Sunlike?

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I can’t tell by eye what failed, would like a clue as to why. I assumed it might just be a loose wire, but only the - wasn’t firmly attached (tucked under the screw)

All I have is a rat shack multimeter and Hakko 888D for tools, not much knowledge. Dont know where to buy this driver or how to configure it

it’s Sunlike 3030’s (either 3v or 6v) supposedly

What happened: Shut off, unscrewed, took cable it was formerly installed in with me. Came home, screwed back in… wouldn’t go on. It was on 24/7 normally.

Is this from a home LED fixture? LEDs run on very low DC voltage so a fixture has one of two type drivers inside the fixture - a constant voltage driver or a constant current driver. It’s not hard to find one if you know exactly what you need as long as you have the right information but you may have to buy it from overseas to get a decent price. This might be a 36V constant voltage driver if the LEDs are linked in series.

Sorry, I meant they are likely 6.2v

I don’t know which he used and it’s no longer possible to see his site or contact him. He might have use ECO SOL instead, but he told me he only had some sunlike left

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5U4U7hi9QTghtXMK9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/xxMNgR69w9HcKyuQ7 it’s most definitely not series, because the circuit would have failed from the dead led

https://aliexpress.com/item/32670741180.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allProduct.8148356.27.104f1c57I5vfF8
I’m not sure if You know this wire is disconnected:
Picture

yes, i desoldered the whole thing to inspect it and dismantle, but don’t know anything about electronics, lol

I don’t understand how to change the output voltage of the driver or why the thermistor was added.
Also don’t know how the led path is - but since one was dead and it still worked before this, it can’t be series?

The led is 6.2v max so the 9v minimum driver you linked might not be right, unless it’s actually series??

I really want easy way to use CoB LED (like thrive) in an e26 socket, I was using this as a night light and the other as night light/display case

Driver positive output is soldered to one board, negative to the other one also there is only 1-wire connection between two MCPCBs so it must be at least 2s topology. Driver You have is for sure deeply modified but exactly the same model I linked. Having min two in series connection of 6V LEDs its in voltage range according to the spec.