CuB-P60

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pinkpanda3310
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CuB-P60

This build seemed to take ages. 2 months and i’m not quite finished yet. I still need to epoxy the holy tail. I initially intended for it to be all brass but I found i didn’t have the right sized tube for the body so the body is now Cu (hence the name – copper and brass P60 ). The copper pipe was also a bit short which made it a fraction too short for 18650 cells so this light takes 18500 cells. I haven’t made any changes to the cheap p60, eventually this light will end up in someone else’s hands and they can change out the module to their preferences.

I don’t have much in the way of other P60’s to compare it to…

It is actually the same pattern on the bezel and body just slightly different spacings. The pattern around the bezel is not even because i didn’t mount the part perfectly concentric in the chuck when i made those cuts. I overcame the issue when i did the body though. I was planning to blacken the patterned area’s but decided against it when i saw how it looked. I made this light clamp the p60 in place so no outter spring is needed. For this to work best the head should be loosened module installed then tighten the head again. One the things i have noticed when removing the head is because the body ‘grabs’ the back end of the pill it can also unscrew the pill when removing the head.

Thanks for lookin’ Smile

  

TIFisher
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Absolutely stunning!!!

mattlward
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Wow, love P60’s and this one is way cool! Someone out there is going to end up with something very unique indeed. Reminds me of something CRX would have built.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

Nachtfeuerzeug
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Very nice! The tight tolerances will help with heat transfer, I imagine. 

Edit: I really like P60 lights (good beam pattern, physical form) and still have a few that I won't let go, yet. I've been testing what lights in my collection work for off road biking including,  S21A & TIR, S2+ triple, my C2, the SD05.  I have a Sky Ray S-R5 that I'm reminded of with the OP and definitely will test it. 

EDC

FW3A, SST20 4000K || S21A, Crescendo Mtn20DD, LH351D 4000K || SP32A, SST40 5000K

Recent/ongoing Mods:

S2+, TexAven 17mm, LH351D | S21A, Crescendo 20mm, XPL HI 5000K | L2 w/Mtn17DD Zener Guppydrv, XHP-50 | C8+ OP, DD XHP-50

SP32A w/SST40 5000K | TIR Upgrades | EagleTac clip | Ultrafire C2 w/6A 20mm & LH351D | S2+, Biscotti, Nichia 219C 2700K |

Reviews:

Sofirn SP31 v2.0 Tactical Flashlight (Cree XPL HI) || Sofirn SD05 Scuba Diving Flashlight || Sofirn SC31 USB Rechargeable (XP-G3) || Sofirn SC31 Pro 5000K

Lumen9000
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OMG! So shiny!

pinkpanda3310
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mattlward wrote:
Reminds me of something CRX would have built.

Yeh, i miss seeing CRX’s incredible hand made stuff Star

Nachtfeuerzeug wrote:
Very nice! The tight tolerances will help with heat transfer, I imagine.

Yeh, that’s what i was hoping for, good heat transfer from the pill to the body Davie

Thanks for the ups Beer Beer

  

MascaratumB
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Shocked Shocked Shocked

That is niiiiceeee Blushing Love
Great work PP Wink

zoulas
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Once you hold and use a copper/brass light, anything aluminum looks like garbage.

Correllux
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Wow, that looks fantastic! And no scratches or gouges or points…well done.

Next step….make miniature non-working clones to sell as earrings. Or add a hook and seek yonder fish. Smile

pinkpanda3310
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zoulas wrote:
Once you hold and use a copper/brass light, anything aluminum looks like garbage.

Cu and brass sometimes look nice but not always, and I actually prefer aluminium (or ti) for a user Innocent

  

Sidney Stratton
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Many hours there. I had to look at the detailed setup to make those ‘scales’. What angle is your rotary toolset on the compound?
I have a Palmgren adjustable vice that can mount to my compound and have been using a rotary tool in there for some multi-lateral drilling (indexing backplate on the spindle). but I wouldn’t have the patience to make 355 indents – I’m taking a guess at 20 × 4 rows (head) and 15 × 13 rows (body).

And the peripheral light holes in the tail. Makes for a very nice visual of the lighted tailcap.

So you have a knack for pushing the envelope of design beauty coupled with simplicity. Kudos!

pinkpanda3310
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Compliments like yours are just that little bit more heart warming when you show some understanding of the labour involved. Thank you Beer

I wrote down the details of the set up somewhere but I’m at work at the moment. From memory the live tool set to 5° angle. Head 4 rows of 18, body 13 rows of 18. Total 306 indents plus the tail.

  

Sidney Stratton
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If I had such patience and perseverance. My best shot was 78 holes .030” in Stainless .100” thk. (showerhead, which I’ll have to dismantle and acid clean the scale sometime soon).

The inner crown in the head is a novelty that I’ll most probably “steal”. It does make for a nice top-off that isn’t pocket gouging as some “tactical” lights.

As for the shortness of the copper blank, perhaps add a copper extender when / if you get hold of some tube. Maybe pirate some plumbing fitting in red brass?

You only mentioned briefly the epoxied tail. Would that be filling in those windows? Curious…

pinkpanda3310
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The inner crown is actually a retaining ring for the lens. I designed it to fit a bezel tightening tool (edc+ 2in1 diffuser / retainer tool). So that part is actually function over form Big Smile

You’re assumption is correct about the epoxy, it’s just too seal those windows in the tail.