XHP 50.2 dome detached - repair advice needed

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question465
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XHP 50.2 dome detached - repair advice needed

Hey Blushing

The plastic/silicone dome fell off of my XHP 50.2 LED. How can I get it back on? It doesn’t stick anymore. Do I need some kind of glue or do I have to run the LED hot so that it will stick again?

Thanks!

Edited by: question465 on 12/02/2021 - 10:23
thefreeman
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It’s dead, you need to replace the LED.

chops728
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Instant shaved dome —- Is it still working —no black spot on it

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Or keep it?
he didn’t say his not working.
XHP 50.2 HI natural. Party

question465
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The LED still works. When I press the detached dome onto the LED it holds for a while. But when I shake the flashlight the dome falls off again. I switched the reflector of my Convoy M21B a couple of times. I have to switch the gasket around the LED as well. This time the dome detached when I tried to remove the gasket.

everydaysurvivalgear
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You need a new LED unless its not blue?, i done the exact same thing to my EA02 except i done it to three LEDs at once lol. If it doesn’t look bad just leave it with the dome of, the XHP looks okay with a shaved dome.

thefreeman
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No blue ? I said dead because usually the phosphor comes off with the dome, but if it didn’t then yeah you can keep using it that way, more throwy and uniform beam.

question465
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Can I use the flashlight without a domed LED without any risk? What about the temperature and thermal regulation? Doesn’t the LED need the dome to dissipate heat or is it just attached to the LED to improve the color and light distribution?

CollectEverything
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question465 wrote:
Can I use the flashlight without a domed LED without any risk? What about the temperature and thermal regulation? Doesn’t the LED need the dome to dissipate heat or is it just attached to the LED to improve the color and light distribution?

The dome just affects beam characteristics and tint. You can safely run the light without it. Lots of people de-dome leds on purpose to increase the candela of their lights.

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MoreHiCRILumens
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Does the beam look green? If not, then you were blessed by a flashlight god. Godsend gift, bless your led.

question465
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Thank you all very much for your kind replies!

It’s already night in Europe, so I just tested the de-domed flashlight. Sadly, the tint looks quite ugly now. I really enjoyed the very warm tone of the 3000K XHP 50.2, but now the tint is very cold and even seems a little bluish to me. I think I messed things up Facepalm
Other people might still like the tint but I prefer 3000K.

There are single LEDs available in Convoy’s store: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32960723533.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_group...

But I think I don’t have the tools and I lack the skill to replace the LED element. There has to be soldering work done I guess. Argh, what a pitty!

everydaysurvivalgear
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Great opportunity to learn a new skill, i must warn you its addictive lol.

MoreHiCRILumens
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Well only 2 wires would be needed to solder. Just getting replace led with same size mcpcb so no need to reflow led.

question465
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I watched some YouTube videos last night. The work seems to be quiete easy for people who have the right tools and skills. A friend of mine could do the job. I ordered a replacement from Convoy, i.e. a XHP 50.2 LED on a MCPCB/copper board. I still can’t believe the magnitude of damage that I have done Innocent

Thank you guys!

Firelight2
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question465 wrote:
I just tested the de-domed flashlight. Sadly, the tint looks quite ugly now. I really enjoyed the very warm tone of the 3000K XHP 50.2, but now the tint is very cold and even seems a little bluish to me.

When the dome came off it removed some of the phosphor layer with it.

LEDs of the type used to produce light for flashlights consist of a blue LED coated with a layer of yellow phosphor. The LED emits blue light, some of which is absorbed by the phosphor which then emits red and green (and other related colors). The result melds together to form white light.

Depending on the phosphor mix the output might be 3000K or 6000K, but the same method is used to produce the light.

In your light, when the XHP50.2’s dome fell off it probably took some of the yellow phosphor layer with it. Result is more of the blue let is getting through. Less phosphor means less of the warmer colors. Result is color temperature of the LED drops and you no longer have the 3000K you prefer.

Unfortunately, there is no way to stick the dome back on. High-powered LEDs found in flashlights produce a tremendous amount of heat while in operation. No commonly available clear glue would stick through that kind of heat. You need to replace the LED.

question465
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I just screwed off the MCPCB/copper board to see whats beneath it. There is some gray fluid/cream between the MCPCB and the driver(?). What about that gray cream? Is it thermal paste like used for computers? I have some “Arctic MX-4 Thermal Compound” that I used to renew my Lenovo ThinkPad. Can I use such thermal paste or do I need a specific product for flashlights/LEDs?

What about the operational procedure? Can I do it like that?

  1. use a soldering iron to detach the wires from the MCPCB
  2. unscrew the MCPCB and remove it
  3. remove the old thermal paste from the MCPCB and the driver
  4. attach fresh thermal paste to the MCPCB and the driver
  5. attach and tighten the replacement MCPCB
  6. use a soldering iron to connect the two wires to the MCPCB

Is that it?

MoreHiCRILumens
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question465 wrote:
I just screwed off the MCPCB/copper board to see whats beneath it. There is some gray fluid/cream between the MCPCB and the driver(?). What about that gray cream? Is it thermal paste like used for computers? I have some “Arctic MX-4 Thermal Compound” that I used to renew my Lenovo ThinkPad. Can I use such thermal paste or do I need a specific product for flashlights/LEDs?

What about the operational procedure? Can I do it like that?

  1. use a soldering iron to detach the wires from the MCPCB
  2. unscrew the MCPCB and remove it
  3. remove the old thermal paste from the MCPCB and the driver
  4. attach fresh thermal paste to the MCPCB and the driver
  5. attach and tighten the replacement MCPCB
  6. use a soldering iron to connect the two wires to the MCPCB

Is that it?

Yes, that us thermal paste. Arctic works well. I been using exactly the same paste.

That’s it. Be extra careful with reflector, don’t touch it at all and watch out anything that might get there, little dust particles etc. Impossible to wipe those clean without scratching them.

chops728
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Before you install the MCPCB — Tin the 2 solder points where the wires go — I would sand the underside of the MCPCB with some 1000 grit on a flat surface— to make sure it’s flat

question465
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Thank you! I will give it a try. Now I have to wait. It will take some weeks before the replacement LED will arrive.

chops728
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Are you in the States — Mountain Electronics would have been a lot quicker

question465
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Nah, kind greetings from Germany to you Hat
I still got another M21B. It’s a 4000K XHP 50.2. So I’m not running empty. I just prefer the warmer 3000K tint. Convoy will send the replacement free of charge.

chops728
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At least you got a shot at getting it —- Here in the States no telling how long it would take

pennzy
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Hard to get a good shiny solder joint with the board sitting in the thermal paste on the shelf. I was advised to slightly lift the board to break the thermal path while soldering the wires. I de domed a xhp50 by accident once too.

chops728
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A Hot iron and Pre-tinned pads make it a lot easier — Try Soldering a driver to a P60 triple copper pill

question465
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I explained my problem to Convoy and they sent me a replacement LED on a copper board, free of charge. With help of a friend of mine who has the right equipment (soldering iron) it just took minutes to successfully replace the LED/copper board and fix the flashlight.

Unheard
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Great support, thanks for letting us know Thumbs Up .

Smile, you cannot kill them all.