Refreshing my memory on convoy, any help appreciated

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mickb
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Refreshing my memory on convoy, any help appreciated

Thanks if anyone can decipher the following.

I was looking for simple gun light a year or two back but didnt purchase at the time due to covid/work situation. Being a dumb hunter with only basic knowledge of flashlight tech I am struggling to retrace my steps as I would really like to make a purchase this time.

Pretty sure I was after a compact thrower in convoy S2 size. Something to get over 20,000 CD throw if possible and cylindrical shape aka light body same width as the head.

I remember having someone suggest Ali express and a guy called Simon?

Someone else also recommended the ‘‘Osram emitter’‘? but I think there ended up being an even better emitter named with lots of other letters and numbers…. I remember joining ali express and talking to I think this Simon(or someone) who was waiting for some new spec thing or shipment maybe and suggested a couple things when he was ready. I think I also asked if there are remote switch tailcaps for these. Cant remember the reply Smile

Thats when the memory gets hazy.

So I found my old log in for AE including email alerts to my old messages, but appears all the old messages have vanished from the inbox.

Does any of the above make sense? Does Simon exist or have I made all this up lol. What is this mystery emitter I almost nailed down.

I really need to make this purchase this time.

Edited by: mickb on 12/10/2021 - 23:37
1stein
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Yes, Simon exists and he is loved by the BLF community. He still runs that nice store, customer friendly and fair prices.
Speaking of Convoy S2+, you might want to consider if the beam should be narrow (then Osram White Flat) or you want it thicker (then SST-40 would do the job).
For hunting purposes i think it’s better to use 12 gruop 5A driver which allows to set just one 100% mode. Also type of switch can be discussed. Whether you prefer forward one (lights up the torch when pressed a little) or reverse (lights up after full switch click)
When you know what’s best for you, just write Simon at the AliExpress store and you’ll get it asap.
Simon’s store

(Android link, hope it’ll work)

mickb
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Thanks 1stein, really appreciate the input.

I will message him again then about a S2+ with the greatest range, a 100% only function and forward clicky momentary on( hoping I have that right) and also a remote tail switch. Good heavens I may just get it nailed this time Smile

mickb
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Guys just another question, can anyone explain the place of the 21700 size battery. is this replacing the 18650 for popularity? Does an investment in 18650 based lights still have longevity?

pennzy
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The 18650 will be around for a good while. Depending on your requirements for throw, a C8 size light might be better for hunting.

mickb
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ill probably get a c8 as well, this first light needs to be lower profile.

Actually looking at the following
1. s2+ short/mid range
2.c8 or something else long range
3. Higher level Handheld thrower

not sure what no.2 or no.3 will be yet. so much to learn and simons site has few lumens or CD figures posted

pennzy
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This thread may be helpful
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/74258

MelRR1229
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mickb
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thanks, I just remembered why I pulled the pin on the project last year, and I even found the thread where I did so. Big Smile

its technical Smile I can understand battery types, lumens, CD’s, but need to put more thought into emitters, tints, ‘firmware’ and amps etc.

spoonrobot
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The Osram W1 seems to be the best thrower in a cylindrical shaped convoy S2+ light. I tested around 32,000cd/360ish meters throw from my example with OP reflector.

It seems the newer SFT40 has similar throw while also doubling the overall lumen output, so that may be an option for you as well, if you can catch it when it’s in stock.

mickb
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Thanks that is very helpful!

Simon just directed me to buy the S2+ SST40 gray model with remote tail switch.

Can I ask regards tint color what works best for absolute best throw per lumens? Cool or warm? I chose 5000k over 6500k or should I have chosen 6500? Im not concerned with aesthetics, just illuminating targets the most efficiently.

I was thinking of getting the S2+ Xp-L hi 2800mah 5000K as well. Seems very economical.

1stein
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6500K should give better numbers, not necessarily confirmed by the naked eye. It’s also said the cold light (6500K) better reveals details, while warm is better for colors.

Lightbringer
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If you’re using a Picadilly mount, check the maximum tube-size it’d take. A 21700 light might not fit. It might, but be aware that it might not.

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mickb
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Picatinny mount I assume you mean. Im only getting an 18650 light so should be okay. This one will get taped directly to the magazine tube of a lever action as well, no fixed mounts.

Lightbringer
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Mmm, I heard it both ways…

 

I think 1” is the “standard” hole size, which usually fits 18650 lights perfectly, but a lot of 21700 lights are just a bit too portly, that the clamp might not “reach” all the way, or it may stretch the clampy part and deform it (especially if plastic), etc.

Oh yeh, I think the TF84 came with a mount… or was it the UC20? Bah, forgot.

Anyhoo, tape is… flexible. LOL

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neo71665
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If it’s going on a rifle I’d highly suggest the C8 over the s2+. I have both, the s2+ is my daily carry and the C8 is on my AR

mickb
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hi neo71665, c8 is a bit large for my intended purpose, taping to mag tube of a little lever action. How do you find the throw on the s2+? Which one do you have? I only want illumination of targets to about 100 yards

Jack Kellar
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mickb wrote:
hi neo71665, c8 is a bit large for my intended purpose, taping to mag tube of a little lever action. How do you find the throw on the s2+? Which one do you have? I only want illumination of targets to about 100 yards

100 yards? Then even an SST20 could do it easily on a smooth reflector. My S2+ SST20 comfortably surpassed that mark before I dropped a TIR in it, despite the driver being 1.4A and the emitter being 2700K.

I do agree the C8 would be overkill. A good compromise between C8 and S2+ might the the M2, although the bezel is not waterproof at all. The M1 is properly waterproof, but it’s a bit bulkier than the M2.

mickb
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Okay thanks thats good to know. I need full water protection as I live in equatorial tropics. Even what doesnt get wet attracts moisture and mold.

mickb
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fellas so I got the grey S2 sst40 simon recommended with remote tailcap. Arrived in good order, gee these little things look and feel tough! I will take it for a test run on the 357 carbine tonight. Did have a couple of questions regards the light if anyone can help.

1. Will this have that parasitic drain going on when it sits unused? It will be a bit inconvenient if I need to pull this out at night and the light doesnt work. If so can I maybe slightly unscrew the tailcap when not in use?

2. Looks like it came with an unprotected battery. Is it okay if I use my protected olight brand button top 18650 batteries in it? I put one in it and it seemed to work just fine, but I thought I would ask in case maybe its technically too long and potentially damaging to the light when screwed shut?

3. Do I have to be cautious if I do run unprotected batteries in it all the way down? Or does the light prevent damage occurring?

4. Lastly, I see there is a programming setting for always comes on at high only. Is there a way for it only to come on at high strobe only?

If not I will just set it to only come on at high everytime.

1stein
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AFAIK:

1. If no lighted switch there should be no parasitic drain, but Li-Ions can discharge just by themselves. However for 18650s it should take more than a year
2. The driver has it’s own protections including heat, polarization and over-discharge. Using two protecting PCB (driver + the cell) may not work properly. I’d recommend to stay with unprotected ones because: a) you already have it incorporated in the driver, b) protected cells are longer and may crush the springs (or even the driver)
3. The light will blink to inform you that the cell’s voltage is at its minimum. With the FET driver (I believe you have the one) you’ll aslo notice brightness loss.
4. There is no just bliking mode. Those available to choose from are:

1. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check
2. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%
3. 100%, 35%, 10%, 1%, 0.1%
4. 1%, 20%, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
5. 1%, 20%, 100%
6. 100%, 20%, 1%
7. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 50%, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
8. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 50%
9. 50%, 10%, 1%, 0.1%
10. 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%
11. 100%, 20%, strobo
12. 100%

mickb
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Wow , just tested the SST40, powerful, good throw but too wide, a lot of lumens and battery power wasted down range for shooting applications.

Looking at spoonrobots chart with greater knowledge on the subject now I see why. Its really cranking the lumens to get that throw…

Of the others in that list( with the lower voltages and decent throw) would anyone know if they have remote tailcaps that would work with them, or might work with the grey tailcap? The blurb on the grey remote tailcap is it only works on grey flashlights?

Also does anyone in Australia want this near new SST40 flashlight, will sell cheaply. Its going to burn batteries too fast for me in the field.

mickb
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1stein wrote:
AFAIK:

1. If no lighted switch there should be no parasitic drain, but Li-Ions can discharge just by themselves. However for 18650s it should take more than a year
2. The driver has it’s own protections including heat, polarization and over-discharge. Using two protecting PCB (driver + the cell) may not work properly. I’d recommend to stay with unprotected ones because: a) you already have it incorporated in the driver, b) protected cells are longer and may crush the springs (or even the driver)
3. The light will blink to inform you that the cell’s voltage is at its minimum. With the FET driver (I believe you have the one) you’ll aslo notice brightness loss.
4. There is no just bliking mode. Those available to choose from are:

1. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check
2. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%
3. 100%, 35%, 10%, 1%, 0.1%
4. 1%, 20%, 100%, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
5. 1%, 20%, 100%
6. 100%, 20%, 1%
7. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 50%, strobo, biking, battery-check, SOS
8. 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 50%
9. 50%, 10%, 1%, 0.1%
10. 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%
11. 100%, 20%, strobo
12. 100%

Thanks 1 stein, very informative and helpful reply. Much appreciated!

pennzy
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The SFT40 emitter will throw better but with a small reflector you can’t expect much more.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003575225000.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc...

spoonrobot
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mickb wrote:
Wow , just tested the SST40, powerful, good throw but too wide, a lot of lumens and battery power wasted down range for shooting applications.

Looking at spoonrobots chart with greater knowledge on the subject now I see why. Its really cranking the lumens to get that throw…

Of the others in that list( with the lower voltages and decent throw) would anyone know if they have remote tailcaps that would work with them, or might work with the grey tailcap? The blurb on the grey remote tailcap is it only works on grey flashlights?

Also does anyone in Australia want this near new SST40 flashlight, will sell cheaply. Its going to burn batteries too fast for me in the field.

You should be able to turn on mode memory, access strobe, and then the next time you turn the light on it will be on strobe. You will not be able to use momentary effectively however.

I also believe the gray version of the Osram S2+ will fit your remote switch tailcap, this is a comment from the Aliexpress listing and it looks to me like they are square threads:

From this listing:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001543265036.html

However, the SST40 model has the best runtime. So the Osram model – despite throwing 300+ meters on ~700 lumens – may have worse runtime, practically and in lumen/hours. Depends on what your needs are.

mickb
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Well I had no idea that after you flick on a convoy s2……….the light then glows in the dark! Not much good for hunting, self defence or duty use unfortunately. Very strange thing to have on a light, what is the purpose?

mickb
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Well it will make an okay camping light, I’ll re-purpose it.

Lightbringer
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mickb wrote:
Well I had no idea that after you flick on a convoy s2……….the light then glows in the dark! Not much good for hunting, self defence or duty use unfortunately. Very strange thing to have on a light, what is the purpose?

Whaddya mean, the GITD O-ring by the front glass?

Unno, I never saw the appeal, but people seem to go gaga over them.

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mickb
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Yes thats correct. Can I remove this and replace it?

Lightbringer
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Yeh, takes all of 5min if you have the right sized O-ring.

Got ring-pullers? Pill should unscrew, glass and O-ring drop out (note if it’s glass-then-ring or ring-then-glass), then just reverse the process with the new O-ring.

Some people use sharpened tweezers, needlenose pilers, etc., but ring-pullers work best.

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Lightbringer
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Oh, and if you don’t mind something more permanent but way more waterproof, you can “wet” the glass and inside of the bezel with RTV, stick ‘em in-place, and then keep the head glass-down but with the glass weighted down with a battery and let it thoroughly cure a week or more if you got the time. Don’t reassemble too quickly in case the RTV outgasses and clouds the reflector.

Any RTV on the visible portion of the glass? Yeah, you can wipe it down while still wet, or just trace it with an Xacto knife then just peel it off after it dries.

Also, while you got it in pieces, if you want to swap in a 20mm TIR lens instead of reflector, go crazy.

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