Acebeam H17 or Armytek Wizard C1?

LED Flashlights – General Info Other Battery Type Flashlights
1

Hi guys,

I’m looking for a new ankled EDC flashlight for work. Been looking for hours and hours and theres two that I cant decide between: Acebeam H17 & Armytek Wizard C1.

Personally I got the feeling that the Armytek Wizard C1 could be my choice - BUT: I heard of bad build quality (electronic wise). Whats your experience with that?

I found some reviews of the Armytek but couldnt find any of the Acebeam, which makes the choice much harder. Maybe someone on here can help me out.

Thanks in advance.

2

Are you talking about the new wizard C1 pro? I haven’t seen a review of that one yet.

3

Exactly. But I think it doesnt differ much from the old one.

Im more interested in the long therm durability of those Armytek lights, because I have read a few negative comments about electronic failure.

4

Compared to the Tiara C1 pro, which I do have. The wizard C1 pro has a different LED (likley a high CRI), , a bigger button, a lanyard hole, a faster charger, and possibly springs on both ends. The warm is probably around 4000k but again I haven’t seen any reviews. So a few different changes.

5

Got the ArmyTek Wizard C1 Pro in couple weeks ago. Like it! Has low CRI but nice warm tint and renders well anyhow. Only 1 spring… Skilhunt H04 mini has high CRI but I like the ArmyTek beam more.

ArmyTek Wizard C1 Pro

Skilhunt H04 mini

6

Hi!

Thanks for your post! I recently received my Armytek Wizard Pro C1 as well.

I played with it a little bit as its a gift for my dad. I liked it alot so I ordered another one for me. lol

The only 2 negative points I got:

- the magnet in the tailcap could be stronger, compared to my Lumintop EDC18 and my Olight S1 Baton its pretty weak.

  • the charger is telling me the output of my USB power source in the kitchen is too weak, altough it got 5V 2,2A

But its a sexy light, I like the big switch!

7

I don’t understand why armytek would do that.

8

They should have went High CRI on the Pro model. Beam and tint are still good, just if you look reds they don’t pop as much when compared to true high CRI… Don’t like the charger not topping off until battery gets down to around 4.03 v. Small battery and small light needs a top off charge for when it gets used around the house. Even worse for 21700 models that stay above 4 v for longer time. Armytek tail caps are stiff to unscrew with double O rings for charging outside of light. Why they gave up top off charge built into those magnetic chargers makes no sense… If you remove the magnetic charger at 4.10 v and put it back on it will not start back charging until you get back down around 4 v. The engineer who designed this must work on Olights LED Pick Team! User interface looks cumbersome on paper but in practical use it is easy and nice…

Skilhunt H04 mini is an outstanding light also with single click on click off. Pick any number of the 7 levels + turbo level you want or keep them all in advanced mode.

9

I found a way around that. Figure out how long turbo lasts before it starts stepping down. Once you know that you’re just going to run it on turbo for a little bit shorter than that time period and then quickly unscrew the tail cap a quarter turn and connect the charger. Even if you don’t truly get the voltage down below 4.0 the voltage sag will have it lower than that and if you do it quick enough it’ll read that voltage sag as below 4.0. This trick might not work at 4.1 I think you need to be just a little under there. I don’t normally want to go above 4.1 anyway.