"Grandma" flashlight

48 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight
"Grandma" flashlight

In the Wurkkos giveaway thread several of us suggested a simple flashlight that could be given to muggles and would be safe and simple to use.
I have started this thread hoping Wurkkos is interested in collaborating in designing it.
Below i am posting some of the comments from that thread.

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Edited by: Bort on 12/28/2021 - 03:34
Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Reserved

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Lightbringer wrote:
Go Wurkkos!

One thing that keeps on being mentioned is The Grandma Light. Ie, a light that’s so simple to use that even The Grandma can use it. Like an old-timey flashlight with a slide-switch that only turns on/off, and can sit in a drawer unattended without ruining the battery/-ies.

The old/original SC31 was almost that light, but got more powerful and more complicated with the ‘B and ‘pro versions. The old big C- and D-cell Maglites would be like that, with just a single on/off switch on the side, but they were heavy, and the switch would be hard to press if you were arthritic.

Or a different approach, a light with a side e-switch but also with built-in charging “just like a phone”, but simple on/off UI only. Something modest like 500lm. I think it was Xiomi that had a simple simple white-colored light like that. Sneered at by “experts”, but it apparently was a good light for The Grandma.

I imagine it could be bigger, for around the house, not kept in a purse for everyday carry, so a 21700 would be a good choice. Like start with the TS21, but with a limited mode for The Muggle and/or The Grandma. Again, maybe simple on/off and 500lm or so. But the button should be very big and prominent for The Grandma to use easily.

Lightbringer wrote:
Wurkkos wrote:
thanks bro, this sounds interesting, so the main point is:

Simple UI: on/off

bigger size: Make it easier for grandma to find it and use it in the room, 21700 better for choice

Low brightness :500lm,, or may be 2 modes—100lm and 500lm?

Side switch with USB Charging port ?

Yep. My mum always used to get those craplights by the dozen. All 3×AAA in the carriers. Whether the 4-for-10bux lights with 9 LEDs, or the showerhead lights with 50 LEDs, she would almost buy them in bulk, because the alkaleaks would explode inside and eat away the springs in the carriers, as well as ruin the contacts inside the lights.

They were all simple on/off, would put out decent (if horribly Angry Blue) light when the alkaleaks would be fresh, but as you know, just a short bit of use, and the alkaleaks start to wheeze and coff and the light gets dimmer and dimmer and dimmer.

And once the carrier gets ruined (yeah, I ordered a pile of spare carriers from Amazon), the light itself is pretty much toast anyway because of the ruined contacts.

She never cared for “modes” nor bright/dim, even in the few showerhead lights that had it. Oh, and she always would forget to turn off the lights, putting them face-down so that you couldn’t see if they were on or off without lifting them up. So especially after getting run down to nothing after being left on overnight, the runt of the litter would usually leak and ruin the light.

Hence, her buying those craplights in bulk, and me buying extra carriers.

I did get “Ultrafire” (they’re not) AT01s and lobotomising the crappy driver to bypass the µC entirely. Complete and total POS light, garbage, but figured it was worth a shot. Then ended up like the other craplights.

So one thing I’d REALLY like to see would be a timer, that after 30min-60min of use, it would automatically turn itself off. Maybe 2min of an occasional blink every 10sec or so, and another 1min of a faster blink like every 2sec or so, plenty of time to just touch the switch and reset the timer, but if not done, the light would just happily turn off to protect the cells. That would even protect the light if tossed into a drawer and something hit the switch turning it on.

And finally, a wider spot to be more of a flooder than a thrower. Most old-timers wouldn’t be scouring the backyard at night looking for sleepwalking goats, but looking into a closet, into a cabinet, in a cluttered drawer, or maybe an attic, basement, or unused room. So they wouldn’t necessarily need a spotlight for lots of throw, but a wider-angle area-light.

So even with a dumbed-down version of the UI for The Muggle, a few extra features would make them a great light for The Grandma, addressing those things that few if any lights have.

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Lightbringer wrote:
Wurkkos wrote:
thanks bro, this sounds interesting, so the main point is:

Simple UI: on/off

bigger size: Make it easier for grandma to find it and use it in the room, 21700 better for choice

Low brightness :500lm,, or may be 2 modes—100lm and 500lm?

Side switch with USB Charging port ?

Yep. My mum always used to get those craplights by the dozen. All 3×AAA in the carriers. Whether the 4-for-10bux lights with 9 LEDs, or the showerhead lights with 50 LEDs, she would almost buy them in bulk, because the alkaleaks would explode inside and eat away the springs in the carriers, as well as ruin the contacts inside the lights.

They were all simple on/off, would put out decent (if horribly Angry Blue) light when the alkaleaks would be fresh, but as you know, just a short bit of use, and the alkaleaks start to wheeze and coff and the light gets dimmer and dimmer and dimmer.

And once the carrier gets ruined (yeah, I ordered a pile of spare carriers from Amazon), the light itself is pretty much toast anyway because of the ruined contacts.

She never cared for “modes” nor bright/dim, even in the few showerhead lights that had it. Oh, and she always would forget to turn off the lights, putting them face-down so that you couldn’t see if they were on or off without lifting them up. So especially after getting run down to nothing after being left on overnight, the runt of the litter would usually leak and ruin the light.

Hence, her buying those craplights in bulk, and me buying extra carriers.

I did get “Ultrafire” (they’re not) AT01s and lobotomising the crappy driver to bypass the µC entirely. Complete and total POS light, garbage, but figured it was worth a shot. Then ended up like the other craplights.

So one thing I’d REALLY like to see would be a timer, that after 30min-60min of use, it would automatically turn itself off. Maybe 2min of an occasional blink every 10sec or so, and another 1min of a faster blink like every 2sec or so, plenty of time to just touch the switch and reset the timer, but if not done, the light would just happily turn off to protect the cells. That would even protect the light if tossed into a drawer and something hit the switch turning it on.

And finally, a wider spot to be more of a flooder than a thrower. Most old-timers wouldn’t be scouring the backyard at night looking for sleepwalking goats, but looking into a closet, into a cabinet, in a cluttered drawer, or maybe an attic, basement, or unused room. So they wouldn’t necessarily need a spotlight for lots of throw, but a wider-angle area-light.

So even with a dumbed-down version of the UI for The Muggle, a few extra features would make them a great light for The Grandma, addressing those things that few if any lights have.


You mean the blinking after the 30-60 mins right before auto shutoff?

I would have either one mode or two mode, and more like 50-150 lumen so you get amazing run time as many people don’t want super bright (i would not be able to give some people a 500 lumen light).

So i would say 1 mode 75 lumen or two mode, 50 lumen and 150 lumen.
Off -75 lumen – Off
or
Off – 50 lumen – 150 lumen – Off

Also the USB should only charge the battery to 4.0V (for longer battery longevity) and cuts off at 3V. The reason being that it could be months before a future charge. But if the battery falls below 2.5V then refuse to charge it. This is important.

Finally i would make a second light with 1AA battery, one mode 50 lumen or two mode 20-100 lumen.
Off -50 lumen – Off
or
Off – 20 lumen – 100 lumen – Off

NiMH charging is not a bad idea but people will put alkalines in it which will make the battery explode upon charging. So perhaps best to skip this.

Finally bear in mind the light will be used a few times a year by many people so the standby current has to be very close to zero. Assume the light won’t be charged for up to two years. I would even add a limp mode, if the battery is at 3V shutoff allow one more runtime of 10 lumens for a minute (once) as a reminder to charge the battery.

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Wurkkos wrote:
We will Choose the winners from a random floor in this thread, maybe we should open a new tread of the “grandma”

Wurkkos wrote:
Lightbringer wrote:
Wurkkos wrote:
thanks bro, this sounds interesting, so the main point is:

Simple UI: on/off

bigger size: Make it easier for grandma to find it and use it in the room, 21700 better for choice

Low brightness :500lm,, or may be 2 modes—100lm and 500lm?

Side switch with USB Charging port ?

Yep. My mum always used to get those craplights by the dozen. All 3×AAA in the carriers. Whether the 4-for-10bux lights with 9 LEDs, or the showerhead lights with 50 LEDs, she would almost buy them in bulk, because the alkaleaks would explode inside and eat away the springs in the carriers, as well as ruin the contacts inside the lights.

They were all simple on/off, would put out decent (if horribly Angry Blue) light when the alkaleaks would be fresh, but as you know, just a short bit of use, and the alkaleaks start to wheeze and coff and the light gets dimmer and dimmer and dimmer.

And once the carrier gets ruined (yeah, I ordered a pile of spare carriers from Amazon), the light itself is pretty much toast anyway because of the ruined contacts.

She never cared for “modes” nor bright/dim, even in the few showerhead lights that had it. Oh, and she always would forget to turn off the lights, putting them face-down so that you couldn’t see if they were on or off without lifting them up. So especially after getting run down to nothing after being left on overnight, the runt of the litter would usually leak and ruin the light.

Hence, her buying those craplights in bulk, and me buying extra carriers.

I did get “Ultrafire” (they’re not) AT01s and lobotomising the crappy driver to bypass the µC entirely. Complete and total POS light, garbage, but figured it was worth a shot. Then ended up like the other craplights.

So one thing I’d REALLY like to see would be a timer, that after 30min-60min of use, it would automatically turn itself off. Maybe 2min of an occasional blink every 10sec or so, and another 1min of a faster blink like every 2sec or so, plenty of time to just touch the switch and reset the timer, but if not done, the light would just happily turn off to protect the cells. That would even protect the light if tossed into a drawer and something hit the switch turning it on.

And finally, a wider spot to be more of a flooder than a thrower. Most old-timers wouldn’t be scouring the backyard at night looking for sleepwalking goats, but looking into a closet, into a cabinet, in a cluttered drawer, or maybe an attic, basement, or unused room. So they wouldn’t necessarily need a spotlight for lots of throw, but a wider-angle area-light.

So even with a dumbed-down version of the UI for The Muggle, a few extra features would make them a great light for The Grandma, addressing those things that few if any lights have.

interested in this project after talk with my team, This is a simple flashlight, but it is not absolutely simple, Contains a lot of caring for older users.
if going with this project, we may need a place talk more and finally determine the functions and materials we need

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

So in summary my thoughts are either choose 1 mode or 2 mode. The ability to switch is not a bad idea, as long as its very well hidden.

I am not a fan of the hold switch to change modes, for grandma this will be confusing. So you need to click between modes as most tail switch lights do.

I would suggest the host could be an FC11.

One mode I would suggest :

Off
Click once: 75 lumen
Click again: Off

Two mode:

Off
Click once: 50 lumen
Click once: 150 lumen
Click again: Off

I would suggest no mode memory.

The USB should only charge the battery to 80% (4.0-4.1V for longer battery longevity) and the light cuts off at 3V. The reason being that it could be months before a future charge. But if the battery falls below 2.5V then the light needs to refuse to charge it. This is important.

Finally the standby current needs to be almost zero. Assume the light will be charged and not used for 2 years.

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Thoughts?

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Chatika vas Paus
Chatika vas Paus's picture
Online
Last seen: 5 min 5 sec ago
Joined: 09/03/2017 - 13:46
Posts: 1096

A similar idea emerged some time ago. Do you remember this thread?
Interest collect for a new Sofirn design: tube style18650, magnetic ring control, USB-C charging, 500 lm max
I think Wurkkos is part of Sofirn, so maybe they would take over this project.

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
A similar idea emerged some time ago. Do you remember this thread?
Interest collect for a new Sofirn design: tube style18650, magnetic ring control, USB-C charging, 500 lm max
I think Wurkkos is part of Sofirn, so maybe they would take over this project.

I missed that thread.
I am hoping Wurkkos will embrace this idea as most of it is just software changes.

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Online
Last seen: 4 min 28 sec ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 1122
Location: Germany

I think most of this was discussed in length already in the other thread.

TheIntruder
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 4 hours ago
Joined: 03/09/2018 - 02:11
Posts: 371

A single, binary e-switch is always going to be potentially confusing if it doesn’t simply act as an on/off switch, and more than one mode must be accommodated.

Rather than trying to reinvent the wheel, develop a modern analog slide switch, and put “Off/Low/High” labels next to it, one of the oldest and simplest UI concepts around. No standby/parasitic drain to worry about either. That might come at the cost of a good IP ingress rating, but that’s probably not a concern for grandma. A rotary switch might fare better in that respect, but grandma already has issues opening pill bottles, so it’s a less preferable solution.

For LVP, have it go into blinky mode (at a sedate, non-seizure inducting rate) when the cell runs low, and needs to be recharged. Keep it simple — if the light’s not working normally, that means it’s time to recharge. Grandma isn’t going to be counting blinks and timings like she wants to learn Anduril, and she’s not likely to care how close the battery is to dying. Set a conservative threshold and leave it at that.

It shouldn’t be a difficult goal to accomplish if it is well-defined, and enough effort and resources put into it.

The problem is that any such light is likely to be constrained by cost, pricing, and the size of the market, so to be feasible, such a model will have to piggyback onto the development work for more sophisticated models, and help amortize the costs.

In that vein, a few lights are already in the ballpark. A 3-chip S2+ locked into 100% group 12, or an X2R reduced to a single mode. Give it an OP reflector or TIR if you want to make the beam more benign. Or a simplified version of the SC31, which it should be noted, was discontinued because the business case didn’t support it to Sofirn’s expectations. But perhaps closest, a simpler version of the FC11, which is already a popular option due to its well-rounded appeal.

The holidays provided the opportunity for glimpses into a couple grandparents’ households, and their lights. One was relying on a $10 Home Depot house brand light that I spoke of before — AAA-powered dual emitter, some unknown UI, with run down cells. The other had a Li-powered light at least, an archetypal generic zoomie that now often serves as a shipping container for battery purchases to skirt regulations. Those are the types of lights such a model would be competing against, in price and performance. Or, perhaps the Duracell or whatever lights that Costco sells that are a step higher.

Is there a grandma market for a “real” flashlight, with proper build and performance? No doubt there is, but how large is it, and is it large enough to warrant the effort? Question

It’s also fair to ask whether grandma wants certain things, like multiple modes, special cells, onboard charging, etc., or are those features are being projected because we like them, so she should as well? Keep in mind the attempt at a simplified Anduril fork, where the amount of feature requests bloated it enough to the point where it wasn’t all that different from the original, full-featured version.

Perception
Offline
Last seen: 12 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 10/01/2019 - 20:11
Posts: 153

I bet a magnetic rotary switch could be adapted to work vertically like a slide switch. With good detents it would feel similar to an old switch, and it would help protect against any kind of ingress.

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 39 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 16189
Location: nyc

In general, magnetic anything requires a Hall-effect sensor, and those eat up more power than typical µC hibernation mode. My DV-S9 will drain a fully-charged 26650 in something like 3wks because parasitic drain is 10mA because of its (quite nice) magnetic slideswitch.

Sofirn/Wurkkos diving lights probably have that drain be much lower, but it still drains more’n a regular eswitch.

Point being, I don’t think that’s able to be changed, especially with the “requiring” low-drain for a drawer-light.

At the expense of extra length, there CAN be a mechanical sideswitch, to allow better ergonomics vs a tailswitch. Just like a C/D Maglite, or even my cheepcheepcheep bobofett AA light, they have a deadspace in the tube for a mechanical switch for just off/on.

And for arthritic hands, you don’t need (and don’t want) a skinny body like for an 18650. A 26650 would be fine, as would a pair of Cs or Ds to power it.

An easy-push mech switch would be best, with an oversize button. Especially set off the button with a chromey bezel like the original SC31. At first, that switch looked like a cheap add-on that was just bolted on as an afterthought, but one thing I noticed is that I could always find it, by feel and by sight.

Also, I don’t think a “high” of 150lm would be high enough, as mum had pretty bad fading vision and would have all the lights on in the house that it was like living on the surface of the sun. What’s “bright” to you and me might be woefully inadequate to an old-timer with fading vision. 500lm through a TIR lens (ie, no hotspot+spill) or even aspheric or system like on the S11C, should be an absolute minimum.

And yeah, a lot of old-timers won’t care about multiple levels, which is why those craplights Keep Getting Sold. They’re being sold for a reason, because they’re simple, stooopit, and bright enough (at least on newish alkaleaks), that it just ticks all the boxes. If they’re happy with a craptastic plastic tube with hotwire bulb and simple on/off switch, what makes anyone think they’d want a multiple-brightness light?

One thing that people keep forgetting, over and over and over again, is that…

People don’t want ¼-inch drills, they want ¼-inch holes.

Everyone’s gonna chime in how “useful” it might be for an old-timer to “want” or “need” multiple brightness levels, or strobes (“just in case of emergency”), or this, or that, and then you have a light that’s already overly complicated, if not intimidating. Avoid that trap.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Wurkkos
Wurkkos's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 05/28/2019 - 05:14
Posts: 576

Thank you, we quite interested in this grandma light project and willing to implement

Renato Azevedo
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 23 hours ago
Joined: 06/16/2021 - 09:47
Posts: 99
Location: Brasil

Very happy to hear that!
Most of us like to give presents related to our passion for lights, I gotta say when I give a flashlight as a present most friends don’t get it right away but sooner or later I receive a genuine thank you followed by a great story of how it “saved the day”. Most of the Grandma lights available are easy to use but junk. It would be great to have something with Wurkkos quality.
But I have to say the simple mode in Anduril 2 surprised me in how quickly my muggle friends and family got used to it.
My suggestion would be that most of this kind of people don’t pocket carry so size wouldn’t be an issue, so I’d suggest that it could be something like a 26650 with an adapter for 3 AAA or any other solution that could use AA or AAA as alternative, don’t know if this could be a problem in lights with internal charging which would be great for this too.
Great thread Bort!

flightless22
flightless22's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 35 min ago
Joined: 11/19/2018 - 12:07
Posts: 594
Location: California

Just for peace of mind. The included batteries should also have its own protection circuitry.

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

We have about a half dozen models here, 18650, 26650, rotary, AA, side switch, binary switch…

I think we need to simplify it, how about two models.
We can look at others in the future is the first two are successful.
A single AA and lithium (my suggestion is 18650 but am willing to look at 21700 or 26650).

I don’t think 500 lumens is a good idea, we might think that is not many lumens but it eats batteries fast. We are also used to recharging batteries after not a lot of use but most people would not be. Plus most people are amazed by 200 lumens and never realized a light could get that high, giving them half a car headlight with relatively short runtime is not necessary.

So how about this:

First light:
1AA two mode, 50 lumen and 150 lumen.
No recharge ability.
I hate to foist alkalines on people but lets be honest, this is what most people will end up doing.

I would like to see NiMH and recharge ability, it would make it an amazing light. But people will put alkaleaks in it, recharge and then they explode. Alkalines are very safe until you try to recharge them.

Second light:
18650 or 21700, two mode, 75 lumen and 250 lumen
USB chargeable to 80% which is not 4.2V.
If the battery falls below 2.5V it refuses to charge it.
A side switch can work if it can last years without draining itself.
Otherwise a tail switch.

I recently received an FC11, its a very interesting light, i would make some changes to it but much of what would be needed to make it a grandma light is just software changes. The single mode while its charging is actually quite useful. It appears to be about 50 lumens, am i correct?

Also what is ts self drain rate when off, has anyone measured it?

Three final thoughts:
The other models as a future project?
A rotary sounds fun to be honest.

Second: What colour temperature?
Do we have to choose one or is having multiple doable?
If only one my suggestion is 4000K. Cooler is harsh for older eyes and this is mostly going to be used indoors where 2700K lightbulbs dominate.
That said i prefer 5000K so if we can have multiple i would suggest that.

Third thought:
Could we come up with a firmware that could be put into a production light that would make it a grandma light, perhaps Anduril lite?
It could have a mode group with more lumens if you want to allow it?
It needs very careful hiding, if accidentally changeable it will happen.

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight

Thoughts?

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 50 sec ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 7026
Location: Portugal

Some thoughts:

I gave my aunts (not grandma…) a FC11 and it is still rolling, they use it everyday. I put a protected cell inside, instead of the original unprotected battery. For a grandma I am not sure I would give it since the output on max may be too much.

As for AA lights, I was remembering of the Skilhunt M150 V2, that can be used with AA alkaline/Ni-MH/14500 Li-Ion, and that can be configured to have 2 modes out of 7 or 8, I guess, plus turbo, strobe /beacon/sos (accessible via shortcuts). It has magnetic charging and brings a protected 14500 if you chose that. Also I guess High CRI led can be chosen, but I am not 100% sure on this. If used with AA or Ni-MH, it won’t get hot on turbo not in other levels.

Same thing happens with the current Skilhunt M200, which is a 18650 light, with magnetic charging.
Both lights have side switch, pocket clip, magnetic tailcap.

Single mode AA, as I mentioned in another thread, the Manta Ray S1. It can use AA alkaline/Ni-MH/14500 Li-Ion, with obvious differences in output. No built-in charging. 3 emitters choice. The host is similar to the Convoy T2, the driver is not.

Something like the Wurkkos DL10R with lower output would be, eventually, great!!

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 39 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 16189
Location: nyc
Bort wrote:
Thoughts?

Unno. Pretty much unchanged, so I’d only be repeating myself.

Bigger is better, for grip. I can’t imagine arthritic hands grabbing even a 2×AA light and futzing with a stiff tailswitch.

What I suggested in the other thread, ie, the Acebeam EC50, pretty much ticks all the boxes:

— 26650 for capacity, and wider diameter for better grip.

— soft-touch sideswitch with simple click-on/click-off operation

— higher contrasting switch, silver button against the black body

— can be set to its lowest setting and left to, again, just click on/off

— no stoopit blinkies or any other retardery, just on/off, and hold to scroll through the brightness levels

— easy usb charging

so that’s pretty much what gramma needs.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Ragsy
Ragsy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 20 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 04/03/2016 - 18:21
Posts: 604
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Thought.

A big Rubber ring similar to Keep Cups for grip and reduces the chance of rolling off her bed side table

We should get sushi Carol
--------------------------------
G'day mate, ow ya garn?
Yeah, nah good mate

MoreHiCRILumens
MoreHiCRILumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 40 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2019 - 07:08
Posts: 1806
Location: Finland

Should we talk about led next? Hmm which kind would be perfect? Wink

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight
MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
Should we talk about led next? Hmm which kind would be perfect? Wink

10CRI 9000K LOL

/sarcasm

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Wurkkos
Wurkkos's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 05/28/2019 - 05:14
Posts: 576

is Magnetic ring switch much easier for Grandma, bigger size and a Larger size is easier to find ?

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 39 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 16189
Location: nyc

For control it might be easier, if the ring wouldn’t just be big, but “grippy” (oversized knurling, etc.).

Concern is parasitic drain, though. If a light gets tossed into a drawer for a year or more, it might run down the cell to 0 when granma needs it most. Hall-effect sensors can eat a lot more current than a sleeping µC uses just to sniff a button every so often.

Best would be a soft-touch mechanical switch that physically breaks the circuit when off. Even if a mechanical switch is harder to press than a momentary e-switch, a big button could let granma press it with both thumbs.

But that requires a commitment from start to finish to be a granma light, not one that’s later made to “look cool” by going with a nicer-looking but smaller button. (or adding 20 modes, or… LOL )

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight
Wurkkos wrote:
is Magnetic ring switch much easier for Grandma, bigger size and a Larger size is easier to find ?

My next question to you and anyone else who has tested or has testing equipment, can you create a light that could go two years before it drains a charged 3000mAh 18650?

What is the power drain rate for the FC11?

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

Jabe1
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 4 hours ago
Joined: 08/17/2015 - 23:45
Posts: 90
Location: Ohio

Keep in mind that most people are perfectly fine with a 2D junk drawer light with the whack -a-palm option.
On board charging must have a protected cell and good circuitry as it may never be unplugged until use.
Most people can appreciate a “battery saver” mode. Maybe two clicks from off? Not hard to do, or remember.
We know that flood is more useful in a gp light, but the muggle still looks to how far can the light reach…
It should fit into a large purse, and be big enough to find on the closet shelf.

turkeydance
turkeydance's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 18 min ago
Joined: 02/20/2020 - 18:53
Posts: 1198

well, we got our Great-Grandmother a 3-pack of 2-D LED’s with batteries for $7.

here is how it works:

a visit with GG will cost you a 3-pack to replace the old ones.
the old ones are given to the Great-Grand-Children to play with during the adult talk.
essentially, GG gets a new set ~3 months. and, yes, sometimes it is hard to find
some of the old ones, but the GGC enjoy the “scavenger-hunt”.

Wurkkos
Wurkkos's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 3 hours ago
Joined: 05/28/2019 - 05:14
Posts: 576
Bort wrote:
Wurkkos wrote:
is Magnetic ring switch much easier for Grandma, bigger size and a Larger size is easier to find ?

My next question to you and anyone else who has tested or has testing equipment, can you create a light that could go two years before it drains a charged 3000mAh 18650?

What is the power drain rate for the FC11?


Yes, it is available that two year standby of one 18650
FC11 max 11W
Bort
Bort's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2012 - 17:15
Posts: 8531
Location: Holding the proverbial flashlight
Wurkkos wrote:
Bort wrote:
Wurkkos wrote:
is Magnetic ring switch much easier for Grandma, bigger size and a Larger size is easier to find ?

My next question to you and anyone else who has tested or has testing equipment, can you create a light that could go two years before it drains a charged 3000mAh 18650?

What is the power drain rate for the FC11?


Yes, it is available that two year standby of one 18650
FC11 max 11W

What is the current draw when turned off?

The Journal of Alternative Facts TM

"It is critical that there is a credible academic source for the growing and important discipline of alternative facts. This field of study will just keep winning, and we knew that all the best people would want to be on board. There is a real risk in the world today that people might be getting their information about science from actual scientists"

 

 

 

TheIntruder
Offline
Last seen: 6 days 4 hours ago
Joined: 03/09/2018 - 02:11
Posts: 371
Jabe1 wrote:
Keep in mind that most people are perfectly fine with a 2D junk drawer light with the whack -a-palm option. On board charging must have a protected cell and good circuitry as it may never be unplugged until use. Most people can appreciate a “battery saver” mode. Maybe two clicks from off? Not hard to do, or remember. We know that flood is more useful in a gp light, but the muggle still looks to how far can the light reach… It should fit into a large purse, and be big enough to find on the closet shelf.

Quite true.

This is basically the flashlight my grandmother used, with the exception of the button (which was metal), and LED insert with the green ring. From what I can recall, it had a small, intense hot spot and little spill, so the beam was not only dim, but poor quality.

Aside from basic safety features to account for a modern Li cell, the more I think about it, a single-mode version of an existing light, with conservative parameters is probably all that a “grandma” will need or ark for. If you want anything fancy, give it a TIR, OP, or frosted optic, to make the beam more versatile, and won’t blind her if she catches sight of it directly.

Also note the price that light is being sold for, or plastic lights like this.

Pages