Wurkkos TS30S + monster LED SBT90.2 = $60 monster 4000Lm 950m thrower ;). Comparison w/ Sofirn IF22a, Nitecore MH12S, Olight M2R

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cannga
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Wurkkos TS30S + monster LED SBT90.2 = $60 monster 4000Lm 950m thrower ;). Comparison w/ Sofirn IF22a, Nitecore MH12S, Olight M2R

EDIT 5-5-2022: The slippery slope of this hobby has led me to order yet another light I don’t really need, Wurkkos TS30S with the extremely potent Luminus SBT90.2 LED. It was on sale for a mere 60 bucks and as usual it’s the LED that intrigues me, so I clicked. The Luminus SBT90.2 is one of the most expensive LED’s I’ve seen, selling by Convoy for around $30, for just the LED. As evening came on the first day that I got the Wurkkos, I immediately realized that it is an absolute monster, lighting up everything in its path as if it were a lighthouse. Part of the magic is all this came in a small form that would fit in my jacket’s pocket. Instead of crowding the forum with yet another thread, I decided to add my experience to this thread. Comparison gives perspective and is more fun for me anyway. Hope it helps if you are in the market for something similar.

Long story short: My wife and I take evening walks on an unlit coastline trail and need a flashlight for safety. I had first looked at headlamps, one thing leads to another found myself at Budgetlight and now have Emisar Nichia 219b and Convoy 519a coming LOL Facepalm . But those are toys, exceedingly fun but for my use not as useful as these 21700 throwers. Hopefully the comparison is helpful. Thanks to this forum for all the info I’ve learned; if I make a mistake please correct as needed.

These 4 lights have been reviewed extensively in this forum as well as great review sites like 1lumen and zeroair, so this thread is mostly a comparison of strengths and weaknesses I’ve noted in daily use. All pictures are taken in RAW format with Canon DSLR, fixed WB 5000k. Exposure controlled to best illustrate a point I’m trying to show. I’m a fairly hardcore shutterbug and color “sensitive,” with a bias towards warm tone in adjusting WB of my travel/scenic pictures, even before I discovered Budgetlight.

Edited by: cannga on 05/20/2022 - 15:07
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SUMMARY
All 3 lights share these features: convenient on-body charging (a must-have for me), 21700 battery, decent throws so I could see what’s ahead on the long trail surrounded by coastal shrubs. Some pro’s and con’s of each light:

Olight M2R Pro Warrior ~$120 and more due to price gouging for Patriot and Orange model
BEAM: CCT of 4900k results in wonderfully warm tone. TIR optic well chosen by Olight: nice large hotspot results in wide area of illumination far field. The spill as expected of a throw-oriented TIR optic is dim, but still bright enough so near field illumination (the area immediately in front and around you) is still pretty good. This is my favorite walk light.
PRO: Exudes incredible quality everywhere you look. Feel solid and the finish is first class. Magnetic charging is the most convenient. Patriotic finish is cool, orange is amazing.
CON: I don’t like the recessed and shallow rear switch nearly as much as Nitecore’s, which protrudes a lot more and is so much easier to activate. The side-switch is not the best: too heavy to click, very short travel, and not nicely “clicky.” I don’t like the side switch as much as Sofirn’s, which feels lighter and “clicks” nicer and more clearly. I do understand Olight’s side switch’s design is deliberately heavy to prevent accidental in-pocket activation.

Nitecore MH12S ~ $90 but was on sale 20% off
BEAM: CCT 6500k means a harsh blue color that provides excellent illumination at the same time that it flattens depth. Distant illumination/throw is excellent, better than Olight. Spill is bright, result in very good near field illumination as well. IMHO the small size, bright beam, and excellent throw make this one of the best and most capable lights for security function on the market today.
PRO: Rear switch is easy to access and have a great old-school mechanical feel. This light grows on me because of its small size and light weight. It actually feels nicest in the hand vs the other 2. With battery and clip, this light weighs 5.6 oz, versus Olight 6.2 and Sofirn 6.8.
CON: Can’t tail stand unless you use the enclosed plastic holster which is big and awkward. Thin metal – the battery cap is razor thin versus Olight and Sofirn for example and looks to be easy distorted if squeezed accidentally. OTOH the thin metal leads to less weight, which I like, so maybe I shouldn’t complain too much. Premium price but perhaps not premium construction. Unlike the other 2 lights, the light could only be turned on by rear switch (the side switch doesn’t turn on/off, only adjusts brightness).
Overall though the more I use this light the more I love it.

Sofirn IF22a ~$40
BEAM: Also 6500k – harsh bright blue tone that flattens depth and obliterates colors lol. Incredible throw for a small light: all output is concentrated by the 5° TIR optic into a small, extremely light hotspot. That throw prowess unfortunately results in a somewhat unbalanced light: a bright but VERY small area of illumination distantly, and everywhere else (around the hot spot and in the near field) is quite dim. If this type of illumination is what you are looking for, it’s perfect. I personally don’t like it too much.
PRO: Construction not Olight level but excellent nevertheless. Very low cost for the quality it brings. For what I paid for one Olight M2R I could get an IF22a PLUS nearly 3 Convoy Nichia’s lol.
CON: The larger size doesn’t bother me because I put it in my jacket’s pocket, but it does make carrying in pants’ pocket just a touch more cumbersome (but doable with loose pants’ side pocket). At 6.8 oz it is the heaviest of the 3 lights.

cannga
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These are measurements off of the excellent 1lumen reviews of these lights. The original table didn’t have data for Sofirn IF22a so I added that to the first line.

Nothing really stood out, oh except for the throw of that bad boy IF22a Smile . That 660 meter throw is for real and makes this the one stand out feature of the IF22a. I don’t like big flashlights and have always wondered what 600 meter plus throw looks like. Now I have some idea – it’s nuts for such a small light.

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Beam shot

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Some comments as to how these white-wall shots predict the result of how these lights look during my walk. Olight and Sofirn use TIR optics. Nitecore smooth reflector.

Olight M2R Pro Warrior Limited Edition: Note the warm pleasant tone of Olight – it’s one of the very few (or maybe the only one?) 300 meter throwers with on-body charging AND a warm tone. Throw lights tend to have high CCT, 6500K or so, which gives them a uniformly harsh & flat bluish tone. Not so with this Olight, which has a warmer ~5000k LED. The Olight’s warm tone is crucial to me and is the reason I bought (& collected Facepalm Smile ) these Pro Warrior 2 lights even after knowing Warrior 3 had been released. The warmer tone allows leaves and flowers along our walk to stand out clearly and pleasantly to the eyes. Objects without doubt appear more 3D. As typical of Cree LED, the green tint is there especially with white wall hunting , but it is not noticeable during actual use. The spill is not as bright as Nitecore for example, but still good. TIR optic means spill is very wide and in this case it is bright so the area immediately in front of us is well illuminated. This is a great walk light and one of my most favorite. My only wish is for the step-down not to be so aggressive (too dim).

Sofirn IF22a has a VERY narrow pencil-beam spot that cuts through the night like laser. The throw of this bad boy is utterly amazing for its size and cost. It’s one of those lights that regardless of whether you need it, you want to buy it. Keep in mind, the hotspot is smallish so it doesn’t illuminate a wide area. The spill of this TIR optic is wide, but in this light VERY dim. It illuminates the immediate area around you, but faintly, meaning it’s ok but could be better. The IF22a is a fun light to play with, but because of the small hotspot and faint spill the width of illumination is limited. IMHO it is just average as a walk light.

Nitecore MH12S – Throw is better than Olight and the spot is wider and much more useful than Sofirn’s pencil beam. The spill is brighter than average and illuminates the area immediately in front of you very well. It has a wide illumination area as a result of bright hotspot AND bright spill. It’s a very good walk light except for that harsh blue tone. IMHO it should truly shine as a light for security work because of its excellent brightness and throw, and nicely small size.

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Brightness

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Close-up view of a tree about 50 yards away to show the different CCT tone of Olight, versus Nitecore. Throwers tend to use 6500k LED, which results in a harsh and flat view of 3D objects such as a tree or shrub. Warm throwers such as 5000k LED Olight are rare, and this warmer CCT makes objects appear more 3D, with depth and details.

The Sofirn IF22a uses a similar LED to Nitecore so would look the same as Nitecore, except that IF22a’s pencil beam pattern would illuminate less of the tree.

FWIW I’ve learned from beamshots of a review that apparently only the limited edition of the Olight M2R Pro Warrior such as my Patriot, Orange, and Purple models (yes I have 3 of them – went a little overboard there Evil Facepalm ) has the warmer tone. Cannot confirm this 100%.

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Beam shot

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thanks for the photos

cannga wrote:
The Olight’s warm tone is crucial to me
ArtieT59 knows how to upgrade the LED to High CRI.. suggest you consider asking about his modding service… recommended to improve color contrast on your walks
cannga
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jon_slider wrote:
thanks for the photos
cannga wrote:
The Olight’s warm tone is crucial to me
ArtieT59 knows how to upgrade the LED to High CRI.. suggest you consider asking about his modding service… recommended to improve color contrast on your walks

Wait are there hapless nutty people out there who actually COLLECT Pro Warriors? I thought I was the only one. Innocent

Kidding aside, thanks Jon for the rec but the 5000k XHP 35 HI is perfect for my use so no mod. Limited edition Pro Warriors like these in comparison to the “regular” ones have lower CCT to begin with anyway, plus I’d like to keep them original. My Patriot actually had all the red stripes lined up, so it’s going to be a garage queen LOL. BTW desert tan is nice, but if you’re from the US IMHO Patriot is the one. Orange was once voted most desirable by Olight fans I think, and it IS stunning. The price gouging is ridiculous for these 2, especially Patriot.

At a younger age I was into the modding game with my cars and cameras (Bilstein suspension, race exhaust, removing the AA filter of my Canon DSLR, etc.). Not anymore. Enough headache :).

cannga
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I have no business ordering another light, but this Wurkkos with SBT90.2 was on sale and I couldn’t resist 3760 lumens and 865 meter throw in a (hopefully) jacket-pocketable light. (Review here: https://zeroair.org/2021/05/19/wurkkos-ts30s-flashlight-review/ .) It seems to be a monster of a bright light, and it’s somewhere in LA waiting for me. Innocent

The SBT90.2 (note the .2 – that’s the more desirable second generation version) is no Nichia or GT-FC40 when it comes to beam tint and color rendering, but has created some wave because of its tremendous output. I had A LOT of difficulty deciding between this and Convoy L8, but in the end I prefer smaller lights and the Convoy’s head diameter is just a little too big. Wurkkos appears to be the least expensive host with excellent review for this LED, so it made decision a little easier. I like to compare lights to give some perspective, and hope comparing it to these 3 throwers should be an interesting one.

******************************
2022-05-03 16:48
Palos Verdes Peninsula, CA, US, In transit – Inbound
2022-05-02 13:07
Los Angeles, CA, US, In transit – Inbound
2022-04-30 14:29
Port of destination – Arrival
2022-04-29 17:30
Port of departure – Departure
2022-04-27 04:52
Yanwen facility – Outbound

cannga
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The light is here – will get some beam shots when I have time. But basically it’s like a lighthouse with tremendous brightness. Thumbs Up Smile The throw is unreal even compared to the excellent IF22a.

One curious aspect of this light is how expensive just the LED is – $32 compared to just a few bucks for most other LED’s. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002168192972.html?spm=a2g0o.productl...

With the LED costing $30, the Wurkkos at $60 is quite a deal. I couldn’t resist.

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Wurkkos TS30S: Quality is not just good, but outstanding especially considering cost is so reasonable. For a SBT90.2 light that meet my requirement of on-board USB-C charing and consistently good reviews, I feel this IS the both the least expensive and best choice on the market presently. Size wise, although big and looks a touch unwieldy, it actually feels great and balanced in the hands. The big top is absolutely necessary to deal with the monster LED for better cooling capacity – I wouldn’t want anything smaller than this. The closest comparison size-wise is to Sofirn SP36 BLF: Sofirn at 15 oz is 4 oz heavier. The SP36’s beer can sizing and heavier weight make me hesitate to carry it on my walk, but this Wurkkos is easy enough to carry in my jacket. Once I have experienced the tremendous beam of this light, really I didn’t mind ANYTHING Silly .

All surfaces are anodized; the anodized finish is a touch too shiny for my taste (I prefer matte) but other than that it’s excellent. The quality is outstanding both inside and out: large contact surface on top, double spring in tail cap. The light comes with Wurkkos 5000 mAh battery and because something like high-current Samsung 40T is recommended, I will do an A:B battery shoot-out. Pocket clip is not provided, so I use my trusty Convoy clip-on clip after bending its arms outwards so it doesn’t scratch the finish too much. There is one bezel of modest size, model sold on Amazon has a second bezel of that is ridiculously huge. That huge bezel is NOT included with this AliExpress sale and it’s not missed at all.

The body (battery tube) looks even but actually is not reversible. The top end is slightly larger than the tail end. There is no knurling but what’s there is good looking and provides good grip. The side switch, used in other Sofirn lights, might not be the best looking but functionally is the best of all the side switches I’ve experienced: it’s flat, has just the right amount of travel, and clicks easily with a nice tactile feel. Overall, really just an excellent and very good looking light.

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Large battery “button” on top, and double spring at the bottom. This LED is extremely current hungry. The current draw as measured in the excellent Zeroair review is 15 amp in Turbo mode.

It’s great to see the attention to details despite of the very low cost of the light. (To be fair the original cost was $85, not the $60 I paid.)

I am beginning to think out of my 20 plus recent-vintage lights, 3 lights starting with
Wurkkos TS30S, for its incredible brightness and tremendous throw,
Convoy S21D with 219b 4500k for color accuracy and tint, and
Convoy M21E or F with GT-FC40 4500k for color accuracy and throw,
would make an ideal starter kit for someone new to this hobby. Meaning, I probably could eliminate about 17 other lights and still be happy with this trio (or maybe not lol – I love my SP36 BLF also). Thumbs Up

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I swapped SFH55 in my TS30S. Very nice.

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Thermal Calibration: First time using the Wurkkos was a disappointment. Turbo was bright but within seconds the light stepped down, and not only that, the step-down was to a very dim level. From past experience with Wurkkos TS21, I checked the light’s thermal sensor and lo and behold it was reading 36 C when the ambient temp was 21 C. The sensor was off by an unprecedented 15 degrees C. (Assuming linear relationship, this means that when the internal temp is 30 C, the flashlight thinks it is 45 C and shuts down.) I have other Anduril lights and usually found temp to be off by a few degrees, but never this much (what happened to QC?). At any rate correction was easy enough using the Anduril 1’s menu.

Max Thermal Limit: To further prevent premature step-down from Turbo level, I also increased the temp at which ATC (automatic temperature regulation) kicks in. Factory default is 45 C, so my first try was 60 C. At this level, Turbo stayed on longer than all other lights I have, but the Wurkkos became too hot to touch. Next try was 50 C limit, and behavior is now perfect. Step downs from Turbo is not too early, nor too late. About same time as IF22a for example (a few minutes). Light does not become too hot, and brightness and throw remains off-the-chart stunning for a “smallish” light Smile Thumbs Up .

Pic of the large and beautiful smooth reflector:

cannga
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Once brightness gets to a certain super-high level for this particular host (or I guess any host for that matter), it appears the limitation is solely how fast you could drain the heat. Any more brightness would probably cause either
a. light becomes too hot or
b. step down becomes too fast and/or too dim.

What’s interesting to me about Anduril is that if manufacturer drops the ball and doesn’t use it properly, then Anduril is not necessarily a good UI. When users are not nutty hobbyists I could easily see the light being returned. OTOH I am thankful for Anduril because one I love its flexibility and choices, and two, as seen with the TS30S, I could tailor the light to behave exactly how I want it to. I am glad I could find an ideal max thermal limit of 50 C. It’s lighting up EVERYTHING lol – near field (from the bright spill) and far field (intense hotspot); some of the most fun with flashlight I’ve had.

BTW still very cheap on Wurkkos site https://wurkkos.com/products/ts30s-usb-c-rechargeable-flashlight-powerfu... . Join the party, you won’t regret this. Party

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Its a really nice light. I’ve been wanting to put a clip on mine and yet I see you got one but is it sturdy enough?

Also that last link you posted has some nice reviews on their site, are you vic*** I noticed the same clip?

Congratulations on getting your review on there.

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cannga wrote:
Thermal Calibration: First time using the Wurkkos was a disappointment. Turbo was bright but within seconds the light stepped down, and not only that, the step-down was to a very dim level. From past experience with Wurkkos TS21, I checked the light’s thermal sensor and lo and behold it was reading 36 C when the ambient temp was 21 C. The sensor was off by an unprecedented 15 degrees C. (Assuming linear relationship, this means that when the internal temp is 30 C, the flashlight thinks it is 45 C and shuts down.) I have other Anduril lights and usually found temp to be off by a few degrees, but never this much (what happened to QC?). At any rate correction was easy enough using the Anduril 1’s menu.

Max Thermal Limit: To further prevent premature step-down from Turbo level, I also increased the temp at which ATC (automatic temperature regulation) kicks in. Factory default is 45 C, so my first try was 60 C. At this level, Turbo stayed on longer than all other lights I have, but the Wurkkos became too hot to touch. Next try was 50 C limit, and behavior is now perfect. Step downs from Turbo is not too early, nor too late. About same time as IF22a for example (a few minutes). Light does not become too hot, and brightness and throw remains off-the-chart stunning for a “smallish” light Smile Thumbs Up .

Pic of the large and beautiful smooth reflector:

!https://i.imgur.com/AkzIvKC.jpg!

I think all the Wurrkos are like this.

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It’s a known thing for Anduril 1. Not only Wurkkos, All brands I’ve seen thru reading, including whatever I have, even Hank’s K1, all temp calibration out from factory are way off.

It’s also a known thing that at some point of time, those who know, 1st thing to do is calibrate the temp for Anduril 1 lights.

cannga wrote:
Thermal Calibration: First time using the Wurkkos was a disappointment. Turbo was bright but within seconds the light stepped down, and not only that, the step-down was to a very dim level. From past experience with Wurkkos TS21, I checked the light’s thermal sensor and lo and behold it was reading 36 C when the ambient temp was 21 C. The sensor was off by an unprecedented 15 degrees C. (Assuming linear relationship, this means that when the internal temp is 30 C, the flashlight thinks it is 45 C and shuts down.) I have other Anduril lights and usually found temp to be off by a few degrees, but never this much (what happened to QC?). At any rate correction was easy enough using the Anduril 1’s menu.

Max Thermal Limit: To further prevent premature step-down from Turbo level, I also increased the temp at which ATC (automatic temperature regulation) kicks in. Factory default is 45 C, so my first try was 60 C. At this level, Turbo stayed on longer than all other lights I have, but the Wurkkos became too hot to touch. Next try was 50 C limit, and behavior is now perfect. Step downs from Turbo is not too early, nor too late. About same time as IF22a for example (a few minutes). Light does not become too hot, and brightness and throw remains off-the-chart stunning for a “smallish” light Smile Thumbs Up .

Pic of the large and beautiful smooth reflector:

!https://i.imgur.com/AkzIvKC.jpg!

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“Mini” beamshots. Sofirn IF22a with the famous SFT40 LED is in some way a technical marvel, a light with world class throw but is small & light, and costs next to nothing. It is the minimum mark I set when I got Wurkkos SBT90.2 . Really there is no point to buy Wurkkos if being bigger and heavier doesn’t bring more of “something”.

The 2 are completely different lights serving different purposes, so this is NOT a comparison to find which light is “better.” It’s more about what differences there are. And what the Wurkkos brings is a very intense hotspot and a much wider field of illumination; the increased intensity over the excellent IF22a actually surprised me. The TS30S is a light capable of flooding a huge area with GREAT brightness; from near to far EVERYTHING lights up. A remarkable achievement for a 60 buck “smallish” light.

My wife will be somewhat upset Innocent if I go out to the trail in the middle of the night to take beamshots so these pictures of the slope around my neighborhood will have to do. All shots with Canon DSLR, RAW format, fixed WB, and fixed exposure. (I picked a middle exposure “good” for all lights, and Wurkkos is too bright for it and got over-exposed.) That white streak in the Wurkkos’s beam is likely a bug flying through.


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The temp calibration out of the factory is imperfect on the chips themselves – I think it was TK that pointed this out some time back. So basically if we want it to be accurate on the flashlight then it needs to be manually set at the time of product manufacture. Some do this and some do not – it’s an extra and time consuming step on the manufacturing line so by not doing it we potentially save a little cost and/or hopefully don’t suffer cost cutting in some other area to make up for it. I’ve not had any that were THAT far off, but regardless it’s wise to always check the temp upon receipt of a new Anduril light, and adjust the temp ceiling if desired. Your error is so large that it makes me think someone accidentally added a click during the set procedure (if they are actually doing it). Normally they’re only off by 2-4 degrees in my experience and many are spot on or just one degree off (usually high).

This may change if we collectively move to a new chip, as it seems may be required in the future.

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Correllux wrote:
The temp calibration out of the factory is imperfect on the chips themselves – I think it was TK that pointed this out some time back. So basically if we want it to be accurate on the flashlight then it needs to be manually set at the time of product manufacture. Some do this and some do not – it’s an extra and time consuming step on the manufacturing line so by not doing it we potentially save a little cost and/or hopefully don’t suffer cost cutting in some other area to make up for it. I’ve not had any that were THAT far off, but regardless it’s wise to always check the temp upon receipt of a new Anduril light, and adjust the temp ceiling if desired. Your error is so large that it makes me think someone accidentally added a click during the set procedure (if they are actually doing it). Normally they’re only off by 2-4 degrees in my experience and many are spot on or just one degree off (usually high). This may change if we collectively move to a new chip, as it seems may be required in the future.

Good points thanks. Yes I have 5 other Sofirn and Wurkkos (and hence an expert with clicking for temp Smile ) & all were within just few degrees, not this much. I was afraid something was wrong with the sensor itself but so far the light behaves as it should. External surface temp using IR gun now about 45 C, similar to (non-Anduril) IF22a. During the initial out-of-the-box testing, the external temp of was in the low 30’s during a Turbo run-down.

@Loafglenn, thanks. The clip I use is the “Convoy Universal Clip Suitable for S2 S2 Plus M1 C8” —-> web link is here and yes it’s fairly sturdy and feels made for the light. It’s a touch small so I bend the arms out a little bit to reduce scratching on the light and it still holds on very tightly. Oh and no I’m not that reviewer on AliExpress.

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The review is on the wurkkos website. And it’s the exact same clip as yours.

I want to add that clip to mine. What’s the light that it goes to so I can try and make and order for one. I wanted to place the convoys s2/c8 screw on clip on the tail but would need to drill another hole near the lanyard attachment so I reconsidered the customization on.

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Same point as I pointed out. Aduril 2 works ok and if we want perfection, we just need to fine tune it…

Correllux wrote:
The temp calibration out of the factory is imperfect on the chips themselves – I think it was TK that pointed this out some time back. So basically if we want it to be accurate on the flashlight then it needs to be manually set at the time of product manufacture. Some do this and some do not – it’s an extra and time consuming step on the manufacturing line so by not doing it we potentially save a little cost and/or hopefully don’t suffer cost cutting in some other area to make up for it. I’ve not had any that were THAT far off, but regardless it’s wise to always check the temp upon receipt of a new Anduril light, and adjust the temp ceiling if desired. Your error is so large that it makes me think someone accidentally added a click during the set procedure (if they are actually doing it). Normally they’re only off by 2-4 degrees in my experience and many are spot on or just one degree off (usually high).

This may change if we collectively move to a new chip, as it seems may be required in the future.

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White wall shots of the 4 lights – predicting well how each light illuminates. IMHO:
Spill: The 2 lights with TIR optic (Sofirn IF22a and Olight M2R) both have spill that is dimmer – hence near field & periphery illumination is not as bright. Sofirn IF22a has a very dim spill and as a result has a very narrow field of illumination as seen in the beamshot above. Wurkkos with its very bright spill lights up a wide area in front of it – everything Smile is lit with this light.

Hotspot intensity (reflecting throw/brightness of distant object in the middle of beam) goes in this order: Wurkkos > Sofirn IF22a > Nitecore > Olight Pro Warrior. Wurkkos TS30S and Sofirn IF22a clearly a class above the other 2 lights when it comes to throw.

@Loafglenn link for the clip I use for TS30S is HERE if that’s what you are looking for.

CRC2
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cannga wrote:
This LED is extremely current hungry. The current draw as measured in the excellent Zeroair review is 15 amp in Turbo mode.
cannga wrote:
The light comes with Wurkkos 5000 mAh battery and because something like high-current Samsung 40T is recommended

zeroair’s review also says

zeroair wrote:
The Wurkkos TS30S Andúril flashlight is powered by a single 21700 lithium-ion cell. If you buy the kit (which you should), you’ll get this 5000mAh seen below. This is a standard 21700 cell. With the internal setup of the TS30S, any 21700 should work fine.

Would you recommend using a better cell than the included?
Or does it really make much of difference?

I am really enjoying your review style btw. Very nice work.

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Haukkeli wrote:
I swapped SFH55 in my TS30S. Very nice.

What kind of difference do you notice?
Brighter and wider spill with not quit as much reach?
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CRC2 wrote:
cannga wrote:
This LED is extremely current hungry. The current draw as measured in the excellent Zeroair review is 15 amp in Turbo mode.
Would you recommend using a better cell than the included? Or does it really make much of difference?

Thank you for the nice comment. I have done A:B comparison of Wurkkos 5000 mAh battery versus Samsung 40T 4000 mAh battery using photography. The Samsung did result in higher brightness at least on Turbo start-up as seen in the 2 shots below. (Although it may not be visually clear, the RAW software does indicate which pic is brighter, just no absolute value.) This makes sense because the very high 15 amp current draw in Turbo mode should be easily met by Samsung’s approx. 25-35 Amp rating.

OTOH, a couple things to considered:
1. The higher brightness would benefit only in Turbo mode. If you use this light the way I do – leave it on for longer than 5 minutes at a time, this higher brightness would likely result in faster step-down to lower mode, where current draw is not as high and difference would expect to be much less. OTOH, if you use it mostly in occasional short on/off period and want max brightness, then yes IMHO you should use Samsung (only $5 at 18650BatteryStore.com).
2. The Wurkkos has higher capacity (5000 vs 4000 mAh of Samsung), a benefit in a current hungry LED like this one.


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Thanks for your reply.

I should have mentioned as well, that one of the reasons I was asking is because Wurkkos.com actually has a good deal (for me at least) on some 21700 Molicel P42A’s.

Im trying to decide whether or not to grab one/two of those along with the light, Instead of the included cell. Or as well as the included cell lol.

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cannga wrote:

Thank you for the nice comment. I have done A:B comparison of Wurkkos 5000 mAh battery versus Samsung 40T 4000 mAh battery using photography. The Samsung did result in higher brightness at least on Turbo start-up as seen in the 2 shots below. (Although it may not be visually clear, the RAW software does indicate which pic is brighter, just no absolute value.) This makes sense because the very high 15 amp current draw in Turbo mode should be easily met by Samsung’s approx. 25-35 Amp rating.

Hi there,

I reckon that you have not purchased a dedicated luxmeter, but no problem. Do you have a phone with ambient light photo sensor? Quite a number have nowadays. Just DL any of those luxmeter apps and use it, it’d tell ya if your phone does not have one, then read the lux figures from a ceiling bounce, try to keep things between runs standard, for eg the temperature of the flashlight. (use a small stream of running water to cool it down faster between the runs). The cell should be ok if the runs are short like less than 5 seconds and you have a > 1 minute rest time after that for the sag to recover, no biggie. If you really want it to be 100% scientific and you have the time to spare, charge up the light again for a minute or 2, let the cell and light rest for 10 mins and start off from the same voltage accurate to 0.001 volts.

This is more convenient and “accurate” than just reading off the histogram or something, and you’d also have absolute figures before vs after mod and calculate things like percentages gain. In fact then you’d also be able to know how much are you sagging at 3 seconds, 10 seconds, 20 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 min etc, and things to know if that initial gain is worth it or not etc. Depends on how you use the light as well, as you’ve mentioned.

You might also try to do a spring bypass, the luxmeter with ceiling bounce is still a very good method to gauge these before/after mod thingys, no need for any lumen pipe or box just that those are more optimal.
Also, for your use, you are just after that percentage % gain increase number on the same light after mod, so ceiling bounce is more than sufficient.

Some lights benefit from this bypass, others don’t…i always do lux readout from a ceiling bounce before and after, really depends on a few factors.

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