FREEME ✌ Nightwatch NS59v1 9*SFQ55 28000lm 2*21700 Flashlight Group Buy - ALIVE

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tactical_grizzly
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freeme wrote:

I was told that LVP will kick in 6V, and light is suppose to auto-shutdown at 5.6V.

Sorry, I don’t have this light so i cannot verify from my end.

 

tactical_grizzly wrote:
freeme wrote:

Which mode were you using when batteries are over-discharged?

tactical_grizzly wrote:
freeme wrote:

I was told that driver supports LVP.

Perhaps mine is faulty? Or perhaps it was a miscommunication. There is a low voltage warning, but no low voltage shutoff on my sample.

Medium

I see. Thank you for the info. I will contact Neal and ask about this. Perhaps he will be willing to send me a replacement driver if mine is indeed faulty.

freeme
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He is aware of your issue. I forwarded your post to him just now. wink 

 

tactical_grizzly wrote:
freeme wrote:

I was told that LVP will kick in 6V, and light is suppose to auto-shutdown at 5.6V.

Sorry, I don't have this light so i cannot verify from my end.

 

tactical_grizzly wrote:
freeme wrote:

Which mode were you using when batteries are over-discharged?

tactical_grizzly wrote:
freeme wrote:

I was told that driver supports LVP.

Perhaps mine is faulty? Or perhaps it was a miscommunication. There is a low voltage _warning_, but no low voltage _shutoff_ on my sample.

Medium

I see. Thank you for the info. I will contact Neal and ask about this. Perhaps he will be willing to send me a replacement driver if mine is indeed faulty.

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Vodak-Yarout
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Where you have see low voltage protection?
Always only write a third function, Low voltage warn.
Not only on this light, in all Nightwatch light, Only low voltage warn.

1 reverse polarity
2 control temp
3 Low voltage warn

All UI and function or copy and paste light after light

Yourrid
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I’m definitely interested in this light, depending on whether it has LVP or not.

  • Has anyone measured the actual output compared to the claimed lumens?
  • Are any shipping with the stainless steel bezel?
  • Are the NS73V1 batteries the best batteries to use or are there better ones out there?
BlueSwordM
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@tactical grizzly, when below 2.0V, I never recommend charging at these kind of currents.

I charge at sub 0.05C until the voltage gets back up to 3.0V.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Vodak-Yarout
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Cooling fine better that expected.
big disparity of tint between my two light
One white (little blue) or cold cold white
One white little greenhish.

Flat top cell (40t for example) don’t make contact
Molicell P42A are good

First impression, Blushing
UI same other Nightwatch
Two half press from on turbo
Three half press from on Strobe
Other, nothing

tactical_grizzly
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Vodak-Yarout wrote:
Where you have see low voltage protection?
Always only write a third function, Low voltage warn.
Not only on this light, in all Nightwatch light, Only low voltage warn.

1 reverse polarity
2 control temp
3 Low voltage warn

All UI and function or copy and paste light after light

I just assumed it had LVP. You are correct that LVP is not advertised on the product page. But, Freeme says it should have LVP.

Sirstinky
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You need to charge those at very low current, like 100 mA to safely being them back. I have done this with success even on super-dead 18650 from laptop pulls at like 0.8 volts. They do take a capacity hit and discharge current will not be as good so those p42s might be relegated to under 10 amps. You’ll know if it is successful if you let the fully charged cells sit for a couple days. If the voltage drops rapidly like 1 volt per day, then they’re junk. You can try another cycle of very low current, but it might fail again. You can also do a discharge test at 1 A. If the voltage drops rapidly, they’re permanently damaged.

tactical_grizzly
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Sirstinky wrote:
You need to charge those at very low current, like 100 mA to safely being them back. I have done this with success even on super-dead 18650 from laptop pulls at like 0.8 volts. They do take a capacity hit and discharge current will not be as good so those p42s might be relegated to under 10 amps. You’ll know if it is successful if you let the fully charged cells sit for a couple days. If the voltage drops rapidly like 1 volt per day, then they’re junk. You can try another cycle of very low current, but it might fail again. You can also do a discharge test at 1 A. If the voltage drops rapidly, they’re permanently damaged.

That’s great advice! Thank you!

Vodak-Yarout
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tactical_grizzly wrote:
Vodak-Yarout wrote:
Where you have see low voltage protection?
Always only write a third function, Low voltage warn.
Not only on this light, in all Nightwatch light, Only low voltage warn.

1 reverse polarity
2 control temp
3 Low voltage warn

All UI and function or copy and paste light after light

I just assumed it had LVP. You are correct that LVP is not advertised on the product page. But, Freeme says it should have LVP.

Ok, I’ve don’t reply to @robocop at page 4
But for me I don’t trust Neal info from Nightwatch, the pair is explosive for unvolontary mistake
I’ve change alu bezel for steel bezel without hesitation, for me no alu bezel for this light.

freeme
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  1. tactical_grizzly mentioned 20000lm with P42A.
  2. You can order stainless steel bezel together with the light
  3. Samsung 30T/ 40T.

 

Yourrid wrote:
I'm definitely interested in this light, depending on whether it has LVP or not. * Has anyone measured the actual output compared to the claimed lumens? * Are any shipping with the stainless steel bezel? * Are the NS73V1 batteries the best batteries to use or are there better ones out there?

1thedeals.comyoutubeAstroluxNealsgadgetsolight

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
Sirstinky wrote:
You need to charge those at very low current, like 100 mA to safely being them back. I have done this with success even on super-dead 18650 from laptop pulls at like 0.8 volts. They do take a capacity hit and discharge current will not be as good so those p42s might be relegated to under 10 amps. You’ll know if it is successful if you let the fully charged cells sit for a couple days. If the voltage drops rapidly like 1 volt per day, then they’re junk. You can try another cycle of very low current, but it might fail again. You can also do a discharge test at 1 A. If the voltage drops rapidly, they’re permanently damaged.

That’s great advice! Thank you!


Problem with Li-ion discharged below roughly 2.5 V is that you don’t know if dendrites started to form. You might “recover” the battery just fine, but in a few days or weeks it might just catch fire by itself. Internal resistance, self discharge, voltage curve – nothing will indicate that the battery is damaged internally. I’d say it is just too risky to try to save a few bucks. Take your loss and dispose them.
tactical_grizzly
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Since the batteries I bought for this light are potentially toast, I’m using another set of P42A’s now and with these I’m getting up to 22,000lm @turn-on. A 10% increase. Neat.

Vodak-Yarout
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Ho my god, I’ve try it at my windows Big Smile
Il like the beam, massive and powerfull hotspot and wide spill , think similar to astrolux MF01S, around same size but less bright, more spill bright, I like.
The building a 200 meter full illuminated.
Wow if the cooling fine do job , damn, medium mode seem be good too.
I’d really like to test it tonight Tired

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SammysHP wrote:
nothing will indicate that the battery is damaged internally. I’d say it is just too risky to try to save a few bucks. Take your loss and dispose them.

Great word, just ask for 2 new cell and no new driver.
In memory of the two P42A low volted

Sirstinky
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tactical_grizzly wrote:
Since the batteries I bought for this light are potentially toast, I’m using another set of P42A’s now and with these I’m getting up to 22,000lm @turn-on. A 10% increase. Neat.

Nice! Test some 30T next of you can. I’d be interested to see what those do!

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Vodak-Yarout wrote:
Ho my god, I’ve try it at my windows Big Smile
Il like the beam, massive and powerfull hotspot and wide spill , think similar to astrolux MF01S, around same size but less bright, more spill bright, I like.
The building a 200 meter full illuminated.

Erratum high stupidity.
Absolutely nothing similar with MF01S beam Facepalm
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Finally I’ve try them
In quick word, That light is an Astrolux EC06 purged of EC06 fantasy (USB-C first , button at head second, tripod mount at third) and purged of all Astrolux shame, a body full useless with massive weight and tiny head so light without passive cooling.
Nightwatch NS59V1

Astrolux EC06

Acebeam X45 (5000k)

Astrolux MF01S (5000k)

No more value to this nighsot, just same setting for compare, i’ve can do focus elsewhere than on the tree, Ive planed other spot but without focus enough for tonight
I’ve do quick video at same pot, release later.

Astrolux EC06 is a shame.
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Few thing after this night
I love low- medium outpout well spread (see on picture near EC06) but especially sustainable Crying
I don’t by Nightwatch light with XHP50.2 NSX4 for example too much power, I prefer NSX4E with SFS80 led (7000 lumens claim compare to 14000 claim for XHP 50.2) more throw with less lumens for better perform
On this light I don’t expect good beam for medium output but finally equal my NSX4E at high with high reserve of power
160 beam angle at feed with pretty nice hotspot, no big artifact, petaling, other
I don’t take my NSX4E for tonight and I need to try with it for confirm.

Turbo is useless high, compare to turbo with naked eye, you see difference but you don’t feel it too much, for higher heat generation, this light have same perform at turbo compare to EC06 (with relative low output)
On high, overperform EC06
Medium Crown .
Cooldown pretty nice heat sink do the job.
Over my hope low is pretty hig Big Smile
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In fact I love the space between each step, moon-low-medium-high for example 25% more output at each step with high base output, I like it.
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Turbo on Nightwatch is always near high, but for light I like in Nightwatch is “low” output > 7000k lumen, so for this output the pretty high passive cooling of Nightwatch light do the job and you can abuse of turbo.
But for this light, Turbo is overpower, but in high you some little output power but get more durability.
For me medium is pretty wonderfull high angle beam and large hotspot no to high, no self blinkink, sustainable mode > the best.
High is pretty power output with raisonable sustain, nice to use.
Low mod is very bright, if you like moon or low output, not on this light
Moon, pretty high output, not moon clearly and not the best I prefere low
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The head Blushing say previously this reason in like Nightwatch host, no USB port, no button, nothing, head is here for take heat heat and heat and evacuat heat by cooling fine, a LIGHT, simply, not piece of shit with horror design for put glow tube inside and get shit perform Smile
Hard low voltage warn (or heat) I was walk in turbo for try overheat and hard step to low mode, I change cell and test after back in my house, 3.45 volt, so I think low voltage warn.
40T no function inside without modification in head for make contact
P42A function, but have lot shacking inside and create lot of interuption, I’ve put inside a metal washer at the back and resolve interuption, but we feel shack inside, I think I rewrap my cell for more thickness.
Two O-ring at the top and the back Shocked first time I see light with 4 O-ring, but no more in package for change.

I’m very enjoy for this first night, I want to use more with various light to compare , but my first impression was exellent.

texas shooter
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Vodak-Yarout, a really good perspective on this light. I’m agreeing with everything including most of the comments on the Astrolux EC06. Side switch a needed sin but dump the port and tripod mount. The Nightwatch NS59V1 turbo is really asking way too much from only 2-21700 batteries. The rest of the light seems good.

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On my LVP issue, Neal relayed from Nightwatch that P42A’s are “not good” for NS59v1. He is sending me some of the “special batteries” he has specifically for this light. If they fix the issue, I will pay for them. I am dubious that it will make a difference, but I will test them and report back. Does anyone have an explanation as to why LVP built into the driver would work with some batteries (Neal mentioned 30T’s & 40T’s) but would not work with others (P42A’s)?

madcrisis
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I ordered mine with the batteries so when I get it I’ll post what batteries they are. It’s a couple states away but hasn’t had a tracking update in a couple days. I’m not going to test if the lvp does in fact work with those batteries because they weren’t cheap. Unless someone can suggest a safe way to test without actually draining the batteries.

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madcrisis wrote:
I ordered mine with the batteries so when I get it I’ll post what batteries they are. It’s a couple states away but hasn’t had a tracking update in a couple days. I’m not going to test if the lvp does in fact work with those batteries because they weren’t cheap. Unless someone can suggest a safe way to test without actually draining the batteries.

Awesome! I look forward to seeing your results.

The safest way to test would be with a bench power supply. Alternatively, you can drain the batteries separately in another light down to LVP level (~2.7V or so). Then try them in the Night watch for a couple minutes on the lowest mode. It shouldn’t drain them too far but it should make LVP kick in if it does indeed have LVP.

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Ok… I finally pulled trigged and ordered one. Lets see how this LVP goes… and maybe see how some Vapcell T42 do in it. I might even try to get my hands on Vapcell T40s to see if those can push the emitters harder, @ 2000mah they’ll die pretty quick I’m guessing.

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I have a bench top power supply at work I can test it with. Didnt even think about that. When it comes in I’ll bring it to work and check it out. Freeme says below 5.6v should auto shutoff so it should be pretty quick to verify. Just need to get my hands on the light first

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Actually going to be a bit longer for me to test this out. I got my tracking information mixed up with my convoy order. My ns59v1 is still tracking as in China. But I will test as soon as I get it if no one else has yet.

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Does anyone have sustainable output numbers for this light? Runtimes? A beamshot would be nice too.

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tactical_grizzly
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CollectEverything wrote:
Does anyone have sustainable output numbers for this light? Runtimes? A beamshot would be nice too.

Will include all that in my full review. For now based on the one runtime test I’ve done, I’m getting just under 2000lm sustained for about an hour and a half on P42A’s.

Sirstinky
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tactical_grizzly wrote:
On my LVP issue, Neal relayed from Nightwatch that P42A’s are “not good” for NS59v1. He is sending me some of the “special batteries” he has specifically for this light. If they fix the issue, I will pay for them. I am dubious that it will make a difference, but I will test them and report back. Does anyone have an explanation as to why LVP built into the driver would work with some batteries (Neal mentioned 30T’s & 40T’s) but would not work with others (P42A’s)?

The thing with P42A from observations with other high current lights, is the 30/40T can ha dle higher initial current loads than the P42A can. It’s as much as 15% higher vs a 30T, which is a lot.

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The writing on the switch looks like “Omten PBS101” according to Omtens website it’s rated for 3 Amps at 30 Volts, i wonder how it will hold up

Sirstinky
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That’s a pretty robust switch good to see a name brand in there too. It’s also meant for AC 125V and 1.5A so that gives you an idea of it’s rated capacity…about 190 watts on AC and probably 60 A on DC.

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tactical_grizzly wrote:
On my LVP issue, Neal relayed from Nightwatch that P42A’s are “not good” for NS59v1. He is sending me some of the “special batteries” he has specifically for this light. If they fix the issue, I will pay for them. I am dubious that it will make a difference, but I will test them and report back. Does anyone have an explanation as to why LVP built into the driver would work with some batteries (Neal mentioned 30T’s & 40T’s) but would not work with others (P42A’s)?

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I didn’t realize it took button tops so the batteries rattle….. got to buy new batteries.

Edit: What batteries should I get?

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